I've already posted it in the Audio forum: AudioQ, but I need help fast, so please speak up.

I'm sure someone has done this, but I want to keep the factory system in tact as much as possible. I'm hoping to not have to remove the 115Amp or whatever fuse.

Thanks in advance.

 

you mean something like this.

 

Yes, but I wanted this one:
http://www.crutchfield.com/S-17GZ160...PBCMOP&o=m&a=0

.


I just don't know what kind of outputs I'll need untill I disassemble all the factory wires tapped off the Positive terminal. I'm probably going to just ghetto rig it until I take it all apart. I was just hoping someone had done this or knew of some kind of convertor to attach the stock clamp to the aftermarket.

Thanks anyways.

 

I used this

http://www.crutchfield.com/cgi-bin/S...101205&o=m&a=1

with a terminal post

http://www.crutchfield.com/cgi-bin/S...101060&o=m&a=1

The terminator goes directly on the positive terminal of the battery. The post replaces the bolt on the terminator. Then you connect the amp power cable ring under the post and the car power cable onto the post. Then you don't have to mess with any of the other cables connected to the positive battery terminal.

 

THANK YOU!!!!

I knew there was something simple like that.

 

Didn't work! I'm betting you don't have the FACTORY Nissan battery. The post is tapered and I couldn't get the terminator past half way.

Oh well, Crutchfield said send it back.

I hope RF comes out with the same dealy, but actually fits. Otherwise, I'll just get a side AND top post gel cell battery and use the side posts for the amp.

 

No, it was the stock battery on a 2K. It was tough to get the terminator onto it. I had to really work that sucker to get it on. You might even need to cut some tape and hose to get some slack for the positive battery cable. Might want to get an extra pair of hands to help you wedge it on there while you tilt the battery. I had some positive terminal metal shavings after I was finished

 

Yeah, that's pretty much what I tried. My terminal lost a little weight in the process .

It's not worth it to force it, so I'll just send it back.

 

Alex,

I think you can use the factory 115A fuse holder with the Platinum RF clamp. You would just have to hacksaw the currect 2ga wire (or is it 1ga wire) that is coming straight off the fuse and into the clamp.

I dont know if I am smoking crack or not since it is 3am and I dont feel like going to my car and taking a look. But I know it can be done.

Even if you can retain the fuse, are you that concious that you want to keep it? Im not saying anything bad about it since I know you like to make sure everything is normal, but in a sense everything is double fused since it already has individual fuses for most things and most other cars dont have a main fuse. It is nice, but I remember trying to get that 115A fuse out, and it WOULD NOT come out and I broke it with a screw drive cause I was trying to take he easy way out on resetting the SES light without removing the cables.

Dixit

 

Yeah, I'm that ****. I was trying to keep the stock clamp and harness in tact. It would have worked PERFECT if the DAMN Street Wires terminator was tapered and would have fit without having to shave down a centimeter or two off the battery terminal to force it.

I do want the Platinum look to match everything else, so I'm probably going to end up doing what you suggested once Crutchfield gets it in stock.

Just remove the NEGATIVE terminal it's easier, 1-2sec. MAX! It takes longer to get the 10mm socket and ratchet.

One other question, Why did you get the separate Pioneer video monitor and DVD player instead of the all in one DVD/CD/video/tuner? I think I'm going to save up for the all in one and put something else in the space below like an EGT, FP, etc.. guage.

 

I went with the separate units because A) it was about $400 cheaper for me. B) I wanted a Dual Single Din setup instead of just a Single Din with a pocket. I hate that pocket, completely unusable (especially when you floor the car and everything falls out of it).

I plan on getting the AVIC-9DVD Nav unit which will end up replacing my current single Din DVD player which can also play DVDs and do Nav with the same unit. Only thing is that it costs about $1500 for that unit just to tell me how to get to the nearest Taco Bell.

Dixit

 

Should of gotten the stinger terminal I mentioned it works. Hey BigDogJonx I think instead of the dvd-nav you should upgrade your amp and subs. You say you DJ so you would want SQ right or just Bass.

 

Man you need to wash that engine bay.

Where can I get the Stinger terminal online? If you have it, can you post a picture on your car?

 

I know I do, I need to know the proper way of cleaning it. As for the stinger terminal I have a wholesale dealer that can get them for me if you want one I can call and ask him a price.

 

Yeah I am working on installing the two subs in the spare tire well. And then taking out the factory system entirely and putting in two component sets (front and rear), just contemplating on which ones to get. The Focal are nice, but expensive. I was thinking JL audio components or Inifinity Kappa series. And drive it with a nice 4channel JBL amp which does 50x4 rms. And yes it is true RMS not BS.

Dixit

 

Not sure on what would clean ALL that other than a steam cleaning. Some detail shops can do steam cleaning and it's the least harmful.

I'll have to check out the Stinger terminator first, but if I decide I'll let you know. Thanks.

 

I think Best Buy maybe sells them that's if you have a best buy.

 

Yeah, we got those. I'll have to swing by this weekend and check them out.

Thanks again for the info.

 

yep.