installing 2K Maxima fog lights
anyone installed fogs lights on 2K Maximas?
i just ordered the factory fog light kit for my car and i was wondering if the car is pre-wired for the fog lights.
i know that 97-99 maximas were pre-wired for the factory fog light kits...i was wondering if it was the same with the 2Ks...if it is so, then i don't have to pay the dealer $100 for the installation...ANYONE?
i just ordered the factory fog light kit for my car and i was wondering if the car is pre-wired for the fog lights.
i know that 97-99 maximas were pre-wired for the factory fog light kits...i was wondering if it was the same with the 2Ks...if it is so, then i don't have to pay the dealer $100 for the installation...ANYONE?
Junior Member
Joined: Nov 2000
Posts: 17
The 2000 and 2001 cars are pre-wired. I just got the kit yesterday. So far, I have installed the new switch stalk and that took about 30 minutes...the hardest part was trying to get the connectors to separate in order to remove the existing stalk. Once the existing two connectors are disconnected, you just slide the entire stalk assembly out -- quite a neat design (actually I omitted describing the removal of 2 screws that fasten the stalk to the steering column).
There is a small 3 pin connector in the steering column, taped to a larger bundle of wires -- you can't miss it. Cut the tape and connect this small white connector to the new switch stalk; then connect the other 2 harness connectors and slide the entire assembly back into place on the steering column; fasten the two screws that hold the assembly to the steering column and close up the steering column (5 screws). In the 2001, the pictures that come with the instructions show the 5 steering columns screws in sort of bizarre locations. Just unscrew the only 5 screws that are obvious -- I couldn't find any other screws so it was sort of a default situation. Watch the grease on the new stalk assembly -- it can get a little messy if your not careful.
There are two other steps: one is to install the relay and the other is the installation of the fog lights in the bumper fascia. The relay installation looks trivial. It snaps into a well marked location in the relay box. The relay box is at the front passenger side of the engine bay. That should be a 2 minute job maximum, including coffee break.
The hardest part appears to be the fog light installation. I looked for the screws/bolts/clips that need to be removed in order to provide access to the recessed fog light area. Once again, the picture in the instructions is not accurate. They show a flat panel where there isn't one -- it is a black plastic panel with mulitple contours and edges. Anyway, I am most concerned about this step. I don't have "ramps" or anything so I may be forced to take the car to the @$%?@ dealer, but I'll see what I can do on my own.
To answer your original question, there are existing wiring connectors for the fog lights sitting taped out of sight just above the fog light "holes" in the fascia; these connectors simply snap into a mated receptacle on each fog light assembly. As mentioned, the switch harness is also already in place in the steering column as well.
The installation requires no drilling.
Regards,
Mat
There is a small 3 pin connector in the steering column, taped to a larger bundle of wires -- you can't miss it. Cut the tape and connect this small white connector to the new switch stalk; then connect the other 2 harness connectors and slide the entire assembly back into place on the steering column; fasten the two screws that hold the assembly to the steering column and close up the steering column (5 screws). In the 2001, the pictures that come with the instructions show the 5 steering columns screws in sort of bizarre locations. Just unscrew the only 5 screws that are obvious -- I couldn't find any other screws so it was sort of a default situation. Watch the grease on the new stalk assembly -- it can get a little messy if your not careful.
There are two other steps: one is to install the relay and the other is the installation of the fog lights in the bumper fascia. The relay installation looks trivial. It snaps into a well marked location in the relay box. The relay box is at the front passenger side of the engine bay. That should be a 2 minute job maximum, including coffee break.
The hardest part appears to be the fog light installation. I looked for the screws/bolts/clips that need to be removed in order to provide access to the recessed fog light area. Once again, the picture in the instructions is not accurate. They show a flat panel where there isn't one -- it is a black plastic panel with mulitple contours and edges. Anyway, I am most concerned about this step. I don't have "ramps" or anything so I may be forced to take the car to the @$%?@ dealer, but I'll see what I can do on my own.
To answer your original question, there are existing wiring connectors for the fog lights sitting taped out of sight just above the fog light "holes" in the fascia; these connectors simply snap into a mated receptacle on each fog light assembly. As mentioned, the switch harness is also already in place in the steering column as well.
The installation requires no drilling.
Regards,
Mat
Originally posted by irvine78
Oh, yeah...one more thing..
how do you put up pictures here?
i got several pics of my car and want to put it up...
any info?
Oh, yeah...one more thing..
how do you put up pictures here?
i got several pics of my car and want to put it up...
any info?
Senior Member
Joined: Aug 2000
Posts: 605
From: Queens NY
To get to the inside of the bumper, you have to remove a screw, a bolt and pop off a few plastic clips on the bumper protector by the wheel well. Once you do this, tha part should be able to be moved out of the way to allow you to proceed. The fog light should slide in from the front and get secured with 1 screw on the bottom.
Originally posted by irvine78
Oh, yeah...one more thing..
how do you put up pictures here?
i got several pics of my car and want to put it up...
any info?
Oh, yeah...one more thing..
how do you put up pictures here?
i got several pics of my car and want to put it up...
any info?
<img src=PathOfImage>
You'll have to have a web site or somewhere to store your pics (i.e. AOL, Geocities, Tripod, PhotoPoint, etc.)
Put your image there and remember the URL of the pic (i.e. http://wwwcsif.cs.ucdavis.edu/~chin/...a/kit4/6a.jpg)
Now replace that code with the URL:
<img src=http://wwwcsif.cs.ucdavis.edu/~chin/images/Maxima/kit4/6a.jpg>
So, you should see this if you get it correct:
<img src=http://wwwcsif.cs.ucdavis.edu/~chin/images/Maxima/kit4/6a.jpg>
Good luck!
Junior Member
Joined: Nov 2000
Posts: 17
Using MAXIMIZD's comments re: location of the plastic protecting plate, I finished the fog light install today (thanks, MAXIMIZD). Specifically, I installed the lights and the relay today; I did the switch stalk last night and my notes are contained in my previous post on this same thread.
This job was really easy. Once I was able to move the plastic panel that runs from the bumper to the wheel-well, the job took only a couple of minutes on each side.
You have to gently pry out the fog light plastic fillers, push two gromets into existing holes, and cut/remove tape that holds the fog light harness out of the way. Plug the fog light harness into the light, and seat the light into the two grommets. Finally, a single bolt is installed to secure the light to the frame on the bottom.
The accompanying instructions show a flat piece held in place by a screw, a bolt, and three clips. The numbers are right, but the picture bears no resemblance to reality. The picture should show that the plastic piece has many irregular contours, and runs from the bumper up into the wheel-well. The screw and bolt are on the bottom along with one clip; there are two more clips in the wheel well that need to be removed. Once all this is done, you can move this plastic protector out of the way just enough to gain access to the fog light frame (you don't take the piece off!). Carefully push it out of the way, noting where the blockage points are, and working the plastic piece around them by bending it slightly, etc.
To remove the clips you need a flat bladed screwdriver with a thin blade; use the thin blade to get under the circular "button". Once you pry it out slightly (so that it is free from it's base or "seat"), user your fingers to remove the entire "button + seat" assembly. Do not attempt to pry the button out of it's seat; the button merely serves to cause the seat prongs to spread in order to make a decent pressure fit. When re-installing the plugs, push the seat into the mating hole, then push the button in. You will feel a small "click" as the button locks into it's seat.
Anyway, the final work is the relay insertion, and it is truly trivial. Pry open the relay box and push the supplied relay into place. It is clearly marked in the instructions, and on the top of the relay box. Prior to this step, I disconnected the negative battery terminal as recommended in the instructions.
I tested the fog lights before putting all the clips, bolts and screws back, and everything worked the first time.
The only caveat during the whole event: be careful prying out the plastic protectors that cover the fog light recesses. I put masking tape over my screw driver shaft, but I should have used a small piece of towel or cloth. I ended up removing some paint from the bumper because of this. Luckily you can only notice the paint damage if you get under the car and look up at the bumper. You will also lose the clock time setting, and your radio memories when disconnecting the battery.
Hope this helps anyone planning on doing this installation. Truly no need to go to a dealership, even for an amateur like myself.
Ciao,
Mat
This job was really easy. Once I was able to move the plastic panel that runs from the bumper to the wheel-well, the job took only a couple of minutes on each side.
You have to gently pry out the fog light plastic fillers, push two gromets into existing holes, and cut/remove tape that holds the fog light harness out of the way. Plug the fog light harness into the light, and seat the light into the two grommets. Finally, a single bolt is installed to secure the light to the frame on the bottom.
The accompanying instructions show a flat piece held in place by a screw, a bolt, and three clips. The numbers are right, but the picture bears no resemblance to reality. The picture should show that the plastic piece has many irregular contours, and runs from the bumper up into the wheel-well. The screw and bolt are on the bottom along with one clip; there are two more clips in the wheel well that need to be removed. Once all this is done, you can move this plastic protector out of the way just enough to gain access to the fog light frame (you don't take the piece off!). Carefully push it out of the way, noting where the blockage points are, and working the plastic piece around them by bending it slightly, etc.
To remove the clips you need a flat bladed screwdriver with a thin blade; use the thin blade to get under the circular "button". Once you pry it out slightly (so that it is free from it's base or "seat"), user your fingers to remove the entire "button + seat" assembly. Do not attempt to pry the button out of it's seat; the button merely serves to cause the seat prongs to spread in order to make a decent pressure fit. When re-installing the plugs, push the seat into the mating hole, then push the button in. You will feel a small "click" as the button locks into it's seat.
Anyway, the final work is the relay insertion, and it is truly trivial. Pry open the relay box and push the supplied relay into place. It is clearly marked in the instructions, and on the top of the relay box. Prior to this step, I disconnected the negative battery terminal as recommended in the instructions.
I tested the fog lights before putting all the clips, bolts and screws back, and everything worked the first time.
The only caveat during the whole event: be careful prying out the plastic protectors that cover the fog light recesses. I put masking tape over my screw driver shaft, but I should have used a small piece of towel or cloth. I ended up removing some paint from the bumper because of this. Luckily you can only notice the paint damage if you get under the car and look up at the bumper. You will also lose the clock time setting, and your radio memories when disconnecting the battery.
Hope this helps anyone planning on doing this installation. Truly no need to go to a dealership, even for an amateur like myself.
Ciao,
Mat
yeah, i just worked on my car...tried to take out the plastic covers and it was really easy!!!(after i remembered that there was a 10mm bolt holding the piece...)
anywayz..thanks for your tips!
p.s. was anyone here at the maxima meeting at the park on saturday?
anywayz..thanks for your tips!
p.s. was anyone here at the maxima meeting at the park on saturday?
Originally posted by expat0007
Using MAXIMIZD's comments re: location of the plastic protecting plate, I finished the fog light install today (thanks, MAXIMIZD). Specifically, I installed the lights and the relay today; I did the switch stalk last night and my notes are contained in my previous post on this same thread.
This job was really easy. Once I was able to move the plastic panel that runs from the bumper to the wheel-well, the job took only a couple of minutes on each side.
You have to gently pry out the fog light plastic fillers, push two gromets into existing holes, and cut/remove tape that holds the fog light harness out of the way. Plug the fog light harness into the light, and seat the light into the two grommets. Finally, a single bolt is installed to secure the light to the frame on the bottom.
The accompanying instructions show a flat piece held in place by a screw, a bolt, and three clips. The numbers are right, but the picture bears no resemblance to reality. The picture should show that the plastic piece has many irregular contours, and runs from the bumper up into the wheel-well. The screw and bolt are on the bottom along with one clip; there are two more clips in the wheel well that need to be removed. Once all this is done, you can move this plastic protector out of the way just enough to gain access to the fog light frame (you don't take the piece off!). Carefully push it out of the way, noting where the blockage points are, and working the plastic piece around them by bending it slightly, etc.
To remove the clips you need a flat bladed screwdriver with a thin blade; use the thin blade to get under the circular "button". Once you pry it out slightly (so that it is free from it's base or "seat"), user your fingers to remove the entire "button + seat" assembly. Do not attempt to pry the button out of it's seat; the button merely serves to cause the seat prongs to spread in order to make a decent pressure fit. When re-installing the plugs, push the seat into the mating hole, then push the button in. You will feel a small "click" as the button locks into it's seat.
Anyway, the final work is the relay insertion, and it is truly trivial. Pry open the relay box and push the supplied relay into place. It is clearly marked in the instructions, and on the top of the relay box. Prior to this step, I disconnected the negative battery terminal as recommended in the instructions.
I tested the fog lights before putting all the clips, bolts and screws back, and everything worked the first time.
The only caveat during the whole event: be careful prying out the plastic protectors that cover the fog light recesses. I put masking tape over my screw driver shaft, but I should have used a small piece of towel or cloth. I ended up removing some paint from the bumper because of this. Luckily you can only notice the paint damage if you get under the car and look up at the bumper. You will also lose the clock time setting, and your radio memories when disconnecting the battery.
Hope this helps anyone planning on doing this installation. Truly no need to go to a dealership, even for an amateur like myself.
Ciao,
Mat
Using MAXIMIZD's comments re: location of the plastic protecting plate, I finished the fog light install today (thanks, MAXIMIZD). Specifically, I installed the lights and the relay today; I did the switch stalk last night and my notes are contained in my previous post on this same thread.
This job was really easy. Once I was able to move the plastic panel that runs from the bumper to the wheel-well, the job took only a couple of minutes on each side.
You have to gently pry out the fog light plastic fillers, push two gromets into existing holes, and cut/remove tape that holds the fog light harness out of the way. Plug the fog light harness into the light, and seat the light into the two grommets. Finally, a single bolt is installed to secure the light to the frame on the bottom.
The accompanying instructions show a flat piece held in place by a screw, a bolt, and three clips. The numbers are right, but the picture bears no resemblance to reality. The picture should show that the plastic piece has many irregular contours, and runs from the bumper up into the wheel-well. The screw and bolt are on the bottom along with one clip; there are two more clips in the wheel well that need to be removed. Once all this is done, you can move this plastic protector out of the way just enough to gain access to the fog light frame (you don't take the piece off!). Carefully push it out of the way, noting where the blockage points are, and working the plastic piece around them by bending it slightly, etc.
To remove the clips you need a flat bladed screwdriver with a thin blade; use the thin blade to get under the circular "button". Once you pry it out slightly (so that it is free from it's base or "seat"), user your fingers to remove the entire "button + seat" assembly. Do not attempt to pry the button out of it's seat; the button merely serves to cause the seat prongs to spread in order to make a decent pressure fit. When re-installing the plugs, push the seat into the mating hole, then push the button in. You will feel a small "click" as the button locks into it's seat.
Anyway, the final work is the relay insertion, and it is truly trivial. Pry open the relay box and push the supplied relay into place. It is clearly marked in the instructions, and on the top of the relay box. Prior to this step, I disconnected the negative battery terminal as recommended in the instructions.
I tested the fog lights before putting all the clips, bolts and screws back, and everything worked the first time.
The only caveat during the whole event: be careful prying out the plastic protectors that cover the fog light recesses. I put masking tape over my screw driver shaft, but I should have used a small piece of towel or cloth. I ended up removing some paint from the bumper because of this. Luckily you can only notice the paint damage if you get under the car and look up at the bumper. You will also lose the clock time setting, and your radio memories when disconnecting the battery.
Hope this helps anyone planning on doing this installation. Truly no need to go to a dealership, even for an amateur like myself.
Ciao,
Mat
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