I'm starting to look into the new Maxima. Carsdirect.com has the configuration we want at ~$1400 over invoice (~4.5%). When I've spoken to dealers over the phone they all say "the internet sites will never get the car to you at that price". Two of my friends have used carsdirect recently (Murano, and Trailblazer) and had good experiences.

Has anyone bought an 04 Maxima over the Internet (carsdirect, Autobytel, etc...)? Is the dealer feeding me a line of bull**it? Or are Maximas really selling for 4-5% over invoice???

Am I mistaken thinking that: A)I could get the car I want from an internet site B) A dealer wouldn't beat the price

Confused new car buyer in the Los Angeles area

 

I am going to get one tomorrow hopefully........$3000 off of MSRP....does this sound like a good deal? this is in the memphis area.....but in my where i live they are wanting sticker price....I told them they are crazy...I will never pay sticker for any car. I can drive an hour away and save 3000 grand.....hmmm. hard choice.....I hate car dealers....but what do you guys think...does it sound like a good deal?

 

I walked into a dealership, told them I wanted a Majestic Blue SE with the Journey Package, mats, and splash gaurds, and that I would pay them 1000 bucks over invoice. It took them all of about 3 minutes to approve the deal.

Just go to a dealership with your **** together. Pay cash if you can, or at least bring your own loan, and don't even let them attempt to "help" you find a better rate.

Just go in straight to the point, and if they don't make you happy, I supose you can walk out.

With both of the new cars I've bought. (My 2000 eclipse, and my Maxima... well when it arrives) I did that, and I got what I wanted.

 

I priced it at edmunds.com and invoice is about 2700 below msrp...does this sound correct for an invoice price......hard to believe they will give me 3000 off of msrp but i guess i will find out tomorrow.

 

I just sent an email to several LA dealers requesting a Max for 300-500 above invoice. Just give them a few days to respond, and i'll let you know what they said. I'm sure you'll get a great price from someone.

 

Alright, I've been lurking for weeks and had to reply to this thread. I ordered a Majestic Blue SE Automatic, with Journey package, sunroof, mats, splash guards for $200.00 over invoice by using the Yahoo Auto's free price quote function. From now on it's internet pricing for me and I'll explain why.

Right now I'm in a 2000 Super Black Maxima SE that I leased by walking into a dealer. I leased a 2002 Altima about a month after they were released for sale for my wife at the same dealer that I got the Maxima from. I went through the fleet sales manager for both cars. They called me about a month after we picked up the Altima and said we had to re-negotiate the purchase price because I got too good of a deal on it and the other dealers were mad at them. No ****, it was the dealership sales manager, above the fleet sales manager, and it was the third car that I got from them. I pretty much told the idiot were to go, it was their problem and hung up. Another lost customer.....

Now that the lease is due on my 2000 Max I decided to try the internet route. I got a few quotes from another local dealer and after emailing back and forth for pricing based on options, went for a test ride. We decided on the options and final price and ordered up the car. It has been the lowest hassle, easiest process I've been through in buying a car. I asked what prices they are selling the Maxima for to people who walk into the dealer, rather than going the internet route, and was told that the best prices were $500 under MSRP. They said that they had to be able to compete with other internet-based dealers so they are giving the better pricing to them. The sales person that I worked with is not commissioned(according to her) and only does internet sales. I pretty sure, based on your local car market, you will get a better deal over the internet than by walking into a dealer. Hey, it doesn't hurt to get the quote and compare. YMMV.

Hopefully I'll like the '04 Maxima as much as my '00. I should be getting it some time in August.

 

I tried the Yahoo buying thing and no dealers in my area (florida) particapate it says??
Anyway Im looking at a SE-Elite Maxx with Everything? sticker price is 36,980 I got him down to 33,900! Im thinking that is not to bad of a deal---what do you think??

 

How did you get to $36,980? It looks to me that an SE w/5AT, Elite, Sunroof, VDC, Mats, Splashguards and shipping should be $26,950 + $6,400 + $900 + $900 + $150 + $110 + $540 = $35,950. Invoice is about $32,500. I think $33,000 would be the most you should pay.

 

Lucky Dog!!! I just received several emails from dealers. They are ready to sell you the Max of your dreams (any configuration) for $300 above invoice here in LA!!! email me, and i'll send you the dealers' info for you to choose to deal with.

 

Well I am back from memphis and just bought a black 2004 Max SE with grey interior, splashguards, spoiler, sunroof, floor mats and premium audio system....MSRP is 29,900. I got it for 26,900 plus TTL. I got 1000 for my trade-in, which was a 93 grand am, trade in value was 800 dollars. I also put 3000 down payment.....final price TTL is 25,201.80. I also got 3.24 interest rate on financing....I priced over the internet....I think I got a HELL of a deal.

There was a couple next to me that bought a Z and they only got 2000 off...

The dealer told me that the max's are selling for sticker price and that the only reason I got a deal is because another dealer in memphis advertised the 3000 off. also because i dealt with him online..they were more apt to match it. Also he new I was ready and serious when I showed up at the door. They new I was going to buy somewhere.

Well tell me what you think.....Good deal?????

 

Man, I wish that I could get prices down that to just a few hundred over invoice... but oh well, considering that every maxima that I've seen on there lot was marked up anywhere from 1000-3500 OVER RETAIL price, I still think I got a decent deal from them. And since there are only like 2 other dealerships on this side of the state, both more then 75 miles away its worth it, IMO.

 

yeah, sticker is ridiculous for a max right now. 1000 over is not bad, especially since there is very little competition. here in la, i can email 15 dealers within 25 miles. now thats incentive to drop your price.

paying cash will not get you a better deal. dealers get $$$ if they can finance you through the manufac's finance co. also paying cash is not smart. if you must have the car paid off for peace of mind, then get a loan and pay off the balance in a month. this will raise your fico score and you will get a great home loan that will save you tens of thousands.

you are mostly correct when you say bring in your own loan. the thing you have to remember is that many manufac's are offering nice rate's. the 03 maxima had a 1.9 for 60mos! you cant get a lower rate from any other financial co.

 

Here in Phoenix we have 6 dealers all with in 20 minutes and it is a great bargaining chip! I bought mine a month after they came out for a bit over invoice.

Someone in this thread posted something about the dealer add-ons, don't ever negotiate with those in the conversation. Tell them to take them off, and start at MSRP.

I bought an SE auto with driver preferred, mats, splash guards, and sunroof. The dealer wanted 34,900 with the "paint protection" and pin stripes, the MSRP was 32,500 (+ or -) and I ended up paying 29 and change, about 3K off MSRP. But the kicker was that I got 1500 more for my trade there than anywhere else. I just told them that some one else was gonna give me 18K for it, so I needed 18,500 to do business here. He tried the "but I know you like the blue, and only we have it". I told him "I don't give a **** about color, I want to pay the least". I was full of ****, I wanted blue and he was right, only he had it. Everytime they think they have the upper hand, you have to remind them that they don't, even if they do.

Feel free to cc one dealer with an email to another about the price. You won't win any friends but you aren't going to any way. Most likely, a couple of dealers will bow out when you start doing this but some will stay in.

Also remember that "invoice" is not what the car cost the dealer. They get all kinds of kick backs, lot fees, etc... they won't sell you a car that doesn't make them the money that they need to make on it.

If you are timid, or need some pointers, go here http://carbuyingtips.com/

Grant

 

From what I understand from carbuyintips.com...always negotiate up from Invoice. Matter of fact, first subtract MFG holdback, then negotiate price with an idea of what % profit you feel the dealer shoud make. From that point forward refuse any added costs, ie. floorplan, marketing, prep, etc...

MaxAppeal I'll e-mail as soon as I figure out how to do that. Since my last post I've received an offer of $500 over invoice which doesn't sound bad. My only concern is that they have to "look" for the car. Is it rediculous to think that they'll be able to find the configuration (nothing really unusual) you want?

Nuke

 

If you are lucky the bank or NMAC will waive the pre-payment fee after 3 months of payment. Which bank(s) will waive the pre-payment fee before the first 3 months of a loan? Many banks have a pre-payment fee regardless of when you pre-pay your loan.

 

In most areas, you won't find a good deal on a newly introduced model (or version of a model). Sounds like some good deals can be had on the Internet if your local dealers participate.

But I'll bet you can bargain better at year-end, if you can wait. It'll also give you more time to check out other cars and solidify your decision.

 

there's really nothing to figure out.

-you know the invoice (edmunds.com)
-dont try to get holdback on a new model. this holdback is alot to ask for in most cases. you will start to seem like an a**hole.
-there arent any incentives/rebates, etc

the only fees that are legit for the dealer charge extra for are:
-tire fee ($5)
-doc fee ($45)
-tax&license

never pay for:
-marketing fees
-dealer add ons
-prep fees
-or any other BS

those tactics are mostly used by floor salesman, not fleet/internet managers. they know you've done your homework. plus you hold their survey report from the manufac. they do not want to **** you off cause they can loose thousands on one bad report. they need it to be flawless.

Before you sign always make sure the interest rate is what you agreed upon. once a dealer tried to add a point in the finance dept (bastard). request them to have the papers already drawn up before you get there so all you have to do is sign (no waiting for 45 min).

im a little confused now about your situation. first, you wanted to get the car for 1400 over invoice from a dealer, not the internet. now you can get the car for 300 over invoice from the dealer. why is there a big hesitation now.

forget the holdback. there arent any rebates. so go from invoice in this situation. if go into holdback during the negotiation you may hurt yourself much more than you will help. now, if you were pricing a dodge neon, i'd request half of the holdback. the lowest i'd go for is invoice in this situation.

by the way, what config are you looking for? if they dont have it, tell them to call you when they do. never leave a deposit for them to 'look'!

let me know when you want to the dealers' info.

 

Yep, you are right 35,950 was the price!! The dealer wont even think about 33,000? Im trying to work 2 dealers right now--somebody may come through??

 

I've received three quotes on a base SL in the Chicago area.
Two at $400 UNDER invoice and one at invoice.
All these were quotes originated thru Nissan website and then e-mail correspondance from there.

 

I have never run into a pre-payment fee on a car and I have always paid my cars off early including my Excursion that I paid off in a year with no fees.

 

What is wrong with looking like an a--hole to a car salesman? Let's be realistic. Car salesman didn't get their reputations as being a-holes for nothing. Most of them try to f--k you the entire time, you might as well f--k them back.

Grant

 

if you're dealing with a straight forward salesman, as i have on my last 3 purchases, it would be very disrespectful to be that way towards him/her. he needs to feed his family and is not playing games with his customers to do so. this is very refreshing and you should appreciate it because these people are far and few in between. be straight forward also.

he is being honest because he doesnt want to wake up in the morning playing cat and mouse all day, so he respects his clients in hope they will return the same respect.

but if someone is an *** towards you, well... let the games begin!


prepayment penalty??? in the last 3 years i have purchased a honda, lexus, and my Max... all 3 are paid off (thank god), and no penalty was assest. they are all simple interest loans (pay them off early and save some nice cash.)

 

Max...the $1400 over invoice was carsdirect.com's price. I mistakenly thought that this was considered "buying over the internet". Now I understand that you really don't buy the vehicle from carsdirect but that they are just a middleman for the dealer.
The $500 over invoice was a quote from the internet sales manager at a dealership. Just a question, what is the likelyhood that you'd be given a quote like this and when you get to the dealership everything changes??

What I was trying to "figure out" was how to e-mail you so that I could find out which dealers you contacted...I'll try again.

Thanks

 

my email is markcsu@hotmail.com

internet sales manager never has gone back on a quote in any of my 3 experiences dealing with them. they dont play games like floor salesman. matter of fact, they are great people and treat you well cause there are no games of negotiation.

just make sure the financing is done before you go there. if you have your own, great. if you want to have nissan finance you, give them your info and have them give you a quote. all paperwork should be filled out before you get there!

the internet salesman has the power to sell the car. the floor salesman doesnt!

what config are you looking for? and what city do you live in?

 

Finding a car salesman that isn't trying to screw you is like finding a doctors office that doesn't make you wait well past your appointment time... just not a frequent thing.

The internet salesmen don't always give you their best price, like they say they do. I had a Honda guy tell me that this was his best price, and then I decided that the Accord didn't do it for me, so as I was leaving he says "I think I can knock another $1000 off that price if you are ready to buy today".

If you really don't like to haggle on the price, go to one of those places that gives you their best price up front... or buy a saturn

Lou Grubb Ford is one of those places here in Phoenix, I think that is the name of it. They are great when it comes to test driving cars. I give him my license, he makes a copy and gives me the keys to a Mustang GT conv. (piece of sh-t) that had 18 miles on it, asked me if I knew the area, and then said "see you in a bit". I tried my hardest to light the tires on that POS car, and couldn't (even with traction control off). They will give you a fair price up front and the sales guys aren't on commission, so they don't pressure you or haggle. The price isn't great, but it is definately fair.

I personally think car buying is a sport, and out of all the cars I looked at, I only ran into 3 sales people that weren't a--wipes. I was nice to those, and an a-hole to the others...

Grant

 

You would if you tried to payoff the loan after the first month like MaxAppeal suggests.

Hey MaxAppeal-

When did you ever get a below market lending rate and attempt to pay it off after exactly 1 month? You didn't (and neither did you Grant). So what are you disagreeing with? To suggest that a new car buyer should get a loan and try to pay it off after 1 month (like MaxAppeal did) is ridiculous and irresponsible.

I work in the finance industry and my firm buys the loan bundles that back these auto loans. We would not buy these bonds unless we had some assurance that they would not be recalled early because the borrower bought out their loan extremely early. Find me 1 loan that does not have a 3 month prepayment penalty fee (at 3.9% or lower) and I will give you props! I am waiting for you to retract your try and clarify your statement after you see that you are wrong (you too Grant).

This is why you should not talk out of your a$$ about something you know nothing about. Just because your loans were paid off early does not make you an expert...does it?

Grant-
When does 'after a year' = 'pay off the balance in a month' like MaxAppeal suggests?

What are you contradicting anyway? It does not seem like we are talking about the same things?

 

mr. expert,

ok pay it off after 3 months, big deal. what's the propblem now??? you have no idea what you're talking about. wow, pay 3 mo of i, instead of 1.
it's still worth to finance even if you have cash, then pay off at 3 mo. raise your fico!

true, i've not paid off a car loan in less than 3 months.
honda- 1 yr 3.9%
lexus- 4 mo 4.35%
maxima- 6 mo 4.25%

several bank loans- less than a month!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! i invest in real estate and pay several notes on 15yr,30 yr mtg's. but, i also have taken loans (10K, 20K, etc) just to pay them back within a a couple weeks to raise my credit scores.

irresponsible?????? a-holes at the bank want a higher credit score to see if im worthy of receiving a line from them. well then, how do i raise my score? duh!!! they invented the rules. now that im playing by them ,im irresponsible? the same people that perpretrated corruption within the corporate world and stole/cheated/lied the $$$ from everyday people.

take a hike and go rant elsewhere you bitter little man.

sincerely,
a guy who feels sorry for you

--------------

gmc- you are correct when you say you can always negotiate a better price. i usually do also. im referring to the your exact situation you describe. if he gives you a price that he can easily go 1000 lower, then he is playing games. you did the right thing to walk away.

with my max i had to play a little negotiating game, but nothing grinding. he made an offer, i countered with an appropriate one (200 below invoice), he accepted. the honda and lexus were offered to me at great prices (under invoice, no rebates at the time), below what i was aiming for. so negotiating was done.

we're on the same page here. you were good to the 3 that treated you well. thats all im saying also. and you are correct, many are swindlers and try to confuse and rip you off. then go tell their buddies how he gave it to you with no gel.

 

I was referring directly to his statement that "Many banks have a pre-payment fee regardless of when you pre-pay your loan."

Nothing more or less. I then stated my experience with that. If you want to explain to me what is wrong about my experience, then please by all means knock yourself out.

I really don't know what you are looking for here, but I can tell you that I did not pay a pre-payment fee on my 2nd mortgage when I rolled that (after 45 days) along with my 1st mortgage, into one nice low apr mortgage.

 

I almost bought from one of those 3 guys too. The Acura dealer gave me a nice quote on a TL Type S. I shopped it to another Acura dealer and he wouldn't beat it, only match. So I was all set to buy the Acura when he blew me off one day. Ooops... I was split between the Acura and Maxima, but that made my decision for me.

My Max negotiations have become legend in my office. Most of the people that have offices around mine would come in to listen to me haggle with the sales guys. It took about 2-3 weeks of negotiating between a handful of dealers to get a good deal. I bought from the dealer that I disliked the most, because the price was right.

grant

 

SilverFlash!

So just go to the nissan website and put your zip code in! Click on contact dealer with all your info?? Does that go directly to the internet sales guy? or goes out to whatever salesman grabs it??? I may hit up a few and see what they say?

Do you give them a price first (invoice) or wait and see? Thanks

 

Thanks for proving my point.

 

Home loans (1st or 2nd mortgages) as well as personal loans (that our pal MaxAppeal described)are very different than auto loans as there is a lot more competition in that area of finance (Fannie Mae and Freddie Mac are the reason) and a ton more documentation. It takes at least 5 days to lock, dock and receive a payout from a mortgage loan while it takes minutes to receive a payout from an auto loan. When was the last time you had to perform a title search for a car?

Comparing home loans to car loans is like comparing apples and oranges.

 

No offense man, but I am not sure that anyone cares about this.

A few statements were made, we weren't looking for a 10 page dissertation on the finance industry

Ok, so back on topic...

 

Both you and MaxAppeal wrote more than I did

 

mamadog- but what made you write anything at all

what made you want to hijack this thread in this manner. having a bad week? i dont understand what you are trying to prove here

 

 

my sentiments exactly...

 

 

I'm also in the Memphis area and shopping around for a deal, but something that I thought would help me is hindering me being in the military stationed here there is no sales tax for us and all the dealers I go to seem to be using this against me. Which dealer did you go to. So far only Dobbs has given me a good deal?

 

I didn't know that you guys didn't have to pay sales tax, good deal for you! That is your benefit, not theirs. I would negotiate the deal with out ever mentioning that you are in the military if it is possible. If they do mention it, let them know that you aren't negotiating that. You are negotiating the cost of the car, and whether or not you have to pay sales tax doesn't affect their cost or the price, period. If they don't like it, leave and tell them to give you a call when they can accept that.

They won't let you leave. The only time they let you leave is when the deal that you have asked them will cause them to not make the predetermined amount of money that they have to make on that car. Dealers don't sell cars at a loss, and they don't allow willing customers to walk away. When you walk off a dealers lot, chances are that you aren't going to walk back, and they know that.