Ankit69

iTrader: (1)

what are good brake pads to get, i was told by my dealership that my brake pads were half way worn down so they gave me two options either put new brake pads now, only 17,000 miles on the car, or machine the rotars ( not sure what that means )... anyway what are the best but reasonable priced brake pads to buy for a 2005 maxima?

NismoMax80

iTrader: (6)

http://forums.maxima.org/showthread....slotted+rotors
plenty of threads on brakes and dealer fixes.

group deal is over but Jason is th Org Brakes guy:
http://forums.maxima.org/showthread....04#post3878504

Ankit69

iTrader: (1)

thanx nismo

willysmooo

anyone replaced brake pads on the max? Ive had some nissan pads sittin around for 6 months, and its time to do em...any help would be great...anything specal i should know?

Tek-Niq

iTrader: (3)

its simple... two bolts take the caliper off, compress them and put the pads back on..

note: the front calipers compress, the rear turn like a screw back in..

do it yourself its easy.. the dealer will rape you for this same job..

willysmooo

I got nissan pads.....for the fact that my original pads are at about 40k and still have life left...i could squeeze more out of em, but dont want to screw up the rotors...i did hav the rotors resurfaced with about 25k though... got the pads online for $82 for both front and rear

04BlackMaxx

36,000 mi here and the car breaks like new. I never brake hard and drive highway alot.

vince23ho

iTrader: (3)

I need some Pads as well. Any Group Buys going on?

NismoMax80

iTrader: (6)

http://forums.maxima.org/showpost.ph...20&postcount=2

04BlackMaxx

Im not worrying about pads till the warning screetch happens....anyone experience it? can I hear it over the Cd player at 20?

SilverMax_04

I have 32.5K and also drive alot on the highway. But the main reason I don't need new pads at this point is that I use 3rd gear and even some 2nd gear (6-speed) when descending the hill up to my house. Talk about giving you control. You are not "riding the brake" going down hill (but do need a few short pumps on the brakes for some corners). This slows the Max enough and still gives me better steering control. Remember the old saying: "Step on your brakes hard and you throw the steering wheel away."

RHMax

That saying was before ABS.

Some of us AT drivers either forget or too lazy to downshift instead of braking sometimes, but brake pads/rotors are cheaper than a new tranny. On my 5th gen, the rear pads worn about twice as fast as the front (materials, reduce weight shifting/dipping?). Has anyone noticed that on 6th gen?

SilverMax_04

I agree when you have an Auto Trannie. I burned one out on my previous car (Olds) while it was still under warranty (possibly from using a lower gear for going down hill). That's why I only looked at Manual Trannies when I last bought in 03. The Max was a standout with the VQ engine and a 6-speed. I simply change the manual trannie fluid every 30K miles and the trannie will do the work of letting the engine brake. That way I don't have to "ride the brakes" all the way down hill, heating them up and wearing them out.

I'd still rather not be braking when I'm turning, even with ABS.

NismoMax80

iTrader: (6)

very surprising with your 5th gen wearing more in the rear. My firend changed his 03 pads and rotors for the first time. He said how impressed he was that all four wore evenly, crediting our even brake distrubution.

Here's what I've been thinking about downhill braking: yes brakes are cheaper than the tranny. I still auto downshift to slow down when I think the brakes can use the help (sudden stops) or when following someone going way too slow on an extended decline.
For anyone that thinks doing this is really bad, well the Max will do it on it's own. If you're going downhill fast and apply the brakes, watch the RPM climb due to auto-engine braking (not just normal downshifting).
I feel the manumatic was designed to drive like stick (it has the rev limiter to prevent any damage) and should be used to slow down if you like.

Now, how about when taking a decline to a stop or even a long one, putting it into Nuetral to save gas and let gravity propel you? Then use the brakes to slow/stop. Now the engine is at idle and the brakes don't have to fight the engine moving you forward.

SilverMax_04

That's good for a Manual Trannie, but don't do it in an Auto Trannie -- the trannie pump does not see the rpms to keep the trannie properly lubed. Bad Idea.

I actually do this in my manual. At the bottom of the long hill to my house, the grade levels off and so I shift into neutral and coast to the stop sign. Saves gas and engine wear. Manual trannie control is the only way to go.

Maxi B

Has anyone experienced a pulsing from the brakes while stopping? I think my rotors are warped.

RHMax

My 5th gen was a 2000 made in Oct 99. The front pads were replaced at about 50k miles each, but the rear were done about every 30k (mostly highway). I don't ride them down to the warning, usually change them about 20-25%. Since 6th gens are a little heavier w/ larger brakes, I don't expect them to last as long.

RHMax

What year? How many miles?

Maxi B

I have a 2004 SL with 25K miles. When I brake the car pulses as if the rotors are warped. Has anyone else had this issue?

NismoMax80

iTrader: (6)

only when ABS has kicked in. if you feel it on light/"normal" braking then you probably are warped. see if the dealer will check them out and if they say you need new anything, come back here and order it.

DeusExMaxima

iTrader: (1)

now may be a good time to upgrade to a BBK or 300ZX calipers

chrisaust

Maxi B, I've started to notice the same thing, and I'm almost to 30k miles... just during normal braking the car vibrates a little. I've already ordered a set of new rotors off Ebay and Axxis Ultimate pads, and I'm going to be painting the calipers at the same time I replace those... Should be looking pretty sweet in a week or two!

MaxFan

Chrisaust, I'm giving you some headups. I installed 4 new cross-drilled/slotted rotors and Ultimate pads about a month ago. The braking is good. There're lots of dust, it takes only a day to cover the rims after washed. When you wash your rims, you can see a "ton" of dirt. But I can live with all that to look cool and sure stopping.
But I just got back from a 1400mile trip to Lake Tahoe. I think the front rotors got warped when I got there, after some serious downhills. Now my car shakes like crazy doing stops. I just ordered new pads @tirerack.com, and will have the stock rotors back in this weekend. I'll keep the rear in-place for now. I will see if C1 Concepts will take them back.

Dblock905

I really dont get why Nissan, always has, and has had problems with brakes. I have owned, a 91, 95, 2002, and 2004... all of them the only issue were the brakes. Dont they have some brains behind the operation to maybe take some ideas from Honda, who has great brakes? Dont get me wrong... love the nissan name, and look, but god, these brakes are always given me problems.

andymax95

I have crossdrilled/slotted rotors with those pads and the braking is great.

Note: When u first install the brakes run them hard, because u are using a ceramic pad and need to put a film on the rotors. If u run them real easy durning break in, then u'll squeel till ur change ur pads

NismoMax80

iTrader: (6)

well there is a specific way you're supposed to break them in. My Axxis pads say on the box how to. i'm sure you can find out how if you

chrisaust

MaxFan, I learned a long time ago from my dad that on long downhill stretches you downshift to 3rd or 2nd gear (in an automatic) and save your brakes. But my stock ones have already been tested a couple times on the Max, even having to engage the ABS, and they seemed to work great, so I'll be very happy to have these new ones in there.

By the way, the dust I dont think will bother me, seems hard to believe it'll be worse than the stock ones... At least I'll get a chance to clean out the inside half of my rims when I get the tires off... Anyone use anything stronger than just regular wheel cleaner when you had the tires off to get rid of the dust on the rims?

MaxFan

Going downhill in 2nd or 3rd gear ? What the RPM would be going @80-90MPH ? I can reach triple-digit on some slopes. I abandoned the manual shifting after a short time. Going down twisty single-lane mountain roads, manual-shift may help here.
I make multiple trips per year. My '97Max's brakes were good. My '04Max's stock brakes lasted 7 trips before I felt some small vibrations. That was why I tried the aftermarket which I can say lasted 1 trip and 2000miles. The vibrations now is just crazy. I can't wait to have the stock rotors back tomorrow, with new ceramic pads (ultra lowdust this time).

VTmaximaVT

yes, hondas have great brakes indeed. I used to drive honda/acuras, and I
wasn't easy on the brakes and they held up really good. Since the day i bought my 04 max, I was really careful with the brakes but they're warped already.

well...max got better engine tho. TO ME, engine's more important than the brakes, and that's why i love my max.

chrisaust

Hey, if I'm going downhill at 85, I'm probably not worried too much about braking as, you well know being in Irvine, that must mean its 3am, because that's basically the ONLY time you could ever get up over 60 on a freeway around here. I'm talking when there's traffic, you're going maybe 55 or so down the hill on the 405 to the 101 interchange, or when there's REALLY traffic, like anytime of the day going the other way down the 405 to sunset, and you're at 20.

MaxFan

I just got the stock rotors back with new ceramic pads. Smoooooth, not even a sound during braking. Love my car again. It still bites a bit better than stock pads. Chrisaust, you must be talking about LA county. I'm in south Orange and commuting against traffic, so 80-90MPH during "rush" hours is an usual thing. I love going over the Grapevine. Wide-open lanes with looong stretches of up-and-down-hills. But I hate it when blasting 80-90MPH and some clunky SUVs just keep hanging out the the "fast" lanes. Don't people understand "slower traffic keep right" ? This is heavy on the brakes. Some Californian drivers need to go back to school for some manners. I don't want to jig-jag passing on the right. But around here, that maybe what people expect others to do.

NashMax

Same exact issue here. I had a ton of dust and the xd/slotted lasted less than 2k miles.

jsmithsole

iTrader: (5)

Alright guys since the automax GD is over I'm on the search for rotors and pads. I found this deal on EBAY, I was wondering what you guys think. I talked to him and he said he can get me Axis pads to go with them for that price of $219. Does this look shady to you guys?
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...spagename=WDVW

There's also this deal:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...spagename=WDVW

I'm not too brake savvy so any help would be appreciated!!!

MaxFan

Wait for Brembo to produce the rotors for our Max. I actually bought from the R1Concepts. Cheap rotors won't last. If your stock rotors warped, have them turned and slap on better pads. Axxis Ultimate pads makes lots of dust. With all the problems, I still miss the sure braking touch of the old setup.

jsmithsole

iTrader: (5)

So you're saying the one's you got from R1 didn't last? And when you say "old" set up are you talking about stock or with the R1's?
Sorry but you confused me...
I e-mailed Brembo to see if there is any word on their rotors for our cars...we'll see.
Thanks for the advice.
J

ICULookN

iTrader: (3)

What size bolt do I need to take off the front calipers?

chrisaust

jsmith, I ordered last week new rotors and pads from ebay, "rotorpros" anyways, he's shipping them out to me today (which means i'll get them tomorrow) and I hopefully will be installing this weekend and painting the calipers at the same time. This guy has been VERY helpful and would have shipped them out last week but his supplier had a death in the family, but he's been extremely nice and courteous. I paid $250 including free shipping, and an extra $80 for the Axxis Metal Master pads for all 4 wheels. Will let you know how they work out.

Albert

Just realized that it's not the bigger wheels that are causing poor
braking. At the beginning of traffic jam, braking is fine. It is when
the brakes start heating up that causes the non linear response.
I had to press hard at the last moment. I remembered that on
my 4th gen, I'd changed to Bendix IQ and the fading went away.
The OEM pads tend to fade when hot so I will need to change
it out.

wsu

Just had my SL serviced and the dealership mentioned something about cleaning the calipers because the brake dust could eventually leave the calipers misaligned. I don't know a lot about brakes, but this didn't make sense to me (at $70/axle). Does anyone have any insight to impart regarding this matter?

Thanks.

NismoMax80

iTrader: (6)

if they decided to clean them, fine. if they charge you, bull. all the cars on the road, if nissan designs calipers that can be damaged by dust, something very wrong.