4drsleeper

I've looked through the stickies but there's no info on replacing rotors. I've already changed the rear rotors (really easy). But there's no info on changing the front rotors.

Here's what I need:
1. What size is the large nut in the center of the rotor?
2. What size are the nuts holding the caliper assembly on?
3. Anything tricky?

Thanks,
Kurt

Glude

iTrader: (5)

Shouldnt be tricky, just remove the calipers and the rotors will slide off.

RHMax

Yes, rotors are held inplace by the lug nuts and calipers.

JoesRedMax

iTrader: (1)

Unless you are unlucky like I was, the rotors were stuck on I had to hit them with a mallet while prying with a bar.

Tek-Niq

iTrader: (3)

yea man don't take that big bolt off, you will take apart the whole assembly lol...

just take the caliper and the caliper braket off and the rotor should come off after some elbow grease..

eclipticrider

iTrader: (1)

i haven't checked our rotors yet but most rotors have 2 small threaded holes near the center. if the rotors are seriously stuck on, do not hit them. instead buy an assortment of small bolts (not sure what size) then find the one that fits the threads on the small holes. thread the bolt into the rotor and it should pop the rotor off.

be sure to set that bolt aside for future use.

and correct me if this does not apply to our car, it has to all the other car's rotors i've replaced.

peace

kdejour

I just ordered my drilled/slotted rotors for my sl. I hope they are easy also. I looked at them when I changed my pads it didn't look like it would be too tricky. Fingers crossed :-)

!PrjctMax!

iTrader: (38)

What drilled/slotted rotors are you getting? Would you mind providing us with a link please? Thanks

kdejour

Look in the group deals section. A guy named automax95 is selling all four shipped for 245.00 here's the link http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=396095. He has gotten good reviews on them hope this helps. I also sent you a pm with the link.

magicmattkelly

Yes, the threaded holes are there and that's exactly what they're for. I've already removed the front rotors on my SE once (yes, they are warped at 45K miles) and it was easy; I didn't have to use the special holes, luckily. I had an extreme circumstance on my 94 Altima where the rotors were really rusted to the hubs... I tried every remedy in the book, heat, liquid wrench (I stripped out the threads on the special holes) and so I relented and took it to a shop, they pulled them off and put my Brembo's on there for $100. Wasn't my first option, but it was the last one I was down to.

madmik

iTrader: (1)

If the front rotors are rusted in (like mine were last month), here is a poor man's trick. Loosen the 5 lug nuts about 1 turn. Rock the car forward and back a few feet, a few times, each times slaping on the brakes. A trick from my grandpa, a poor but proud car mechanic. His basic tool: A good coat of WD40 the night before you take anything off.

With a screwdriver, gently push the piston back in before you take the caliper/pads out. New pads will be much easier to slide over rotor.

Add a set of Stainless Steel braided brake lines. Really worth it.

4drsleeper

Well, I got them put on. For everybodys future knowledge...the front caliper requires you to remove two 14mm bolts and two 22mm bolts. Everything worked out fine and I like the new look.

CanadianMoFo

Just plain ol regular bolts or a allen key head style bolt? And did you need an impact wrench or just a regular socket set?

CM.

4drsleeper

Just regular bolt heads. I used a 1/2" socket wrench on the 14mm bolts and a 3/4 socket wrench on the 22mm. You'll need a large hammer to help break the bolts loose...or a pry bar on the wrench. The 14's are fairly easy to break loose but the 22mm bolts are really, really, really tight.

SEmy2K2go

iTrader: (10)

Write-up w/pics enjoy

Mightymousehhd4

iTrader: (1)

I am tring to change my rear rotors and it isnt working all that nice . Any help. Please.

04BlackMaxx

I would like to do my front pads and rotors soon...this write up is nice....but i have a question about the step after you take the caliper off....they show the piston just sitting there...I thought you have to hold the piston in or else it could pop out...or you need to use a special tool to keep the piston in. Can anybody advise?

!PrjctMax!

iTrader: (38)

From what i've done in the past just let it "hang" and then when u need to put the caliper back on, just get one of those clamps and press it back in with that.

Dan

!PrjctMax!

iTrader: (38)

Can you be more specific about your problems please?

NmexMAX

iTrader: (22)

22mm.... Damn mine were 18mm.

maximaluver

I just got my rotors and pads from Automax too and was wondering if anyone knows a decent place in the Ft. Lauderdale / Boca area that can throw them on cheap and right? Any ideas? E-mail me back at jtfixler@yahoo.com

Peace,
Jeff

NmexMAX

iTrader: (22)

It's quite easy.. take the wheel off and try it.

MAX2DAMAX

iTrader: (5)

I dont want to be a party pooper, but its not recomended to let the caliper hang from the ruber hose, those calipers are heavy, and it could result in a leak

04BlackMaxx

Do you think when I push in the piston im going to have to bleed the brakes too? Or do most people puch them in, put the new pads in, and thats the end of it.

MAX2DAMAX

iTrader: (5)

i would bleed them, just make shure that you pump the brake pedal couple of times before you start driving. you dont want to hit the guy in front of you,

boone

iTrader: (1)

I've done quite a few pad and rotor swaps without ever bleeding the brakes. As long as you don't disconnect the calipers from the brake lines, you don't have to bleed the brakes.

maximob

I used to work part time for a mechanic shop out of high school and the owner told me the main reason for bleeding the brakes after replacing the pads was to change out the fliud. Heat and pressure can really beak down the fluid and can cause vapor lock. It happened to me in my moms ford once.

PS...boone, are those Zinik wheels? I just got the Z18 Minardi's. Very nice wheels...

boone

iTrader: (1)

I wouldn't be surprised at anything that happens in a Ford. Seriously, you are correct in that when you change the brakes is a good time to swap out the fluid. I was more concerned with confusing someone into thinking that bleeding the brakes during a pad/rotor change was a must.

Yes, they are Z7 Adrians.

y0_nate

iTrader: (1)

Whats up everyone....... I have read up and down this site on how to's to remove the rear rotors on our car..... I just got my brake system in and the front rotors were cake..... the rear ones seem to be a bit more difficult ...... is there a sticky or a web site i can go to ..... to help me with this???? thanks

Tek-Niq

iTrader: (3)

you did the fronts, but can't do the rear.

thats funny, the rears are way easier than the fronts, 2 bolts take the caliper off and out comes the rotor.. its simple..

kamski

iTrader: (9)

1) make sure your emergency brake is not on......
2) use a rubber mallet to smack the rotor off, from inside outwards.

y0_nate

iTrader: (1)

well guys i did it and no .... its not as simple as the fronts... the fronts were cake ..... like 15 min and i was done...... the backs tend to be different as because there is a small hole with a plastic rubber thing that looks as if it could fit a flat head screwdriver.... once you pop that out you have to line that hole in the 12'o clock position until you see what looks like a gear from a clock..... you go either up or down with your flathead screwdriver (trial and error) until you notice that the rotor spins quite easily.... that is when you are able to take off the rotor.... the gear that you move actually applies pressure to the rotor which is what made it difficult to take off..... i finnally got it off now whole brake system is now complete...... i would of done the SS lines but I have no one to help me apply the pressure upon putting them back on ..... ill do that this weekend.....

Longhorn101

Where did you get the new rotors and what kind are they?

Tek-Niq

iTrader: (3)

thats how you adjust the e-brake, too much you set the e-brake too hard and the rotor won't spin cause the brakes are on basicly.

y0_nate

iTrader: (1)

i purchased from automax95 in the group buy section.... awesome guy to deal with.... and my rotors look great....

Monotaur

I recently put my rotors from automax95 on as well. Did the finish on your rotors not looks 100% polished? You could still see lots of machining marks on mine, did know if that was normal.

Thanks.

y0_nate

iTrader: (1)

yeah it had a bit of machine markings........ but after a couple days of driving ...... they seemed to fade..... also..... i got my rotors powder coated black.... so that also might have something to do with it..... other than that im happy with em .... ill post pictures on here tomorrow

NismoMax80

iTrader: (6)

mine are f'in welded on. not really, but sure wish Nissan made the 2 small holes on the rear.

I HATE RUST any suggestions to getting them off? Fronts were easy. I'm to the point of using a torch or jack-hammer

NismoMax80

iTrader: (6)

through my searching, i'll try a trick someone posted. since we don't have the 2 holes on the rear to "screw them off" we can use the caliper bracket and run a bolt from behind.

madmik

iTrader: (1)

Lots of WD40 the night before.

Otherwise try this: Put the wheels back on and loosen the lug nuts about 1/2 - 1 turn. Drive 3 feet and hit the brakes, in reverse 3 feet and brake again. Repeat a few times. Use medium brake pressure first.

You should hear/feel a slight 'klunck' from each wheel when the rust breaks loose around the hub. Do not slam on the brakes too hard as each lug nut may leave a small indentation on the mag near the nut. I have used this method many times.