Hello guys! I heard some weird noise coming from the right rear everytime I hit the brake. Then I went to auto repair shop to check out the problem. The guy told me that the weird noise is caused by the aftermarket brake pad. He told me to change to brake pad to original Nissan one. He wanted to charge me 120 dollars for the rear pads. He said that may solve the weird noise problem. Any comments are welcome. Thank you.

 

I smell b/s. I have noticed the same exact problem that you have in my car. I installed new rotors/pads and have a kind of low/quiet humming noise from the rear sometimes, but then again, I think all of the noises that I am hearing are because of "winter" and its' cold weather! So i'm most def looking forward to the summer!

 

I bought OEM nissan rear brake pads online for $42.00....

 

When I installed aftermarket rims on my car, i noticed noises coming from my brakes. After I took the lugs off and re-torqued them, the noise went away. You can try that, doesnt cost anything.

 

Ya, it does! It costs about $100 for a torque wrench and how uch do you torque the nuts to, 85 ft. lbs?

 

Yes 85 lbs.

 

Any more comments? Thank you.

 

Process of elimination: Is your hand brake still working good?

 

I would recommend changing out your rotors and pad. I changed mine out to drilled rotors and ceramic pads. Haven't had any problem for about 50 thousand miles. You should see better performance out of this setup.

The biggest problem with the stock setup, I felt, was the heat, which warps rotors and eats up pads. Both the ceramic pads and drilled rotors stay cooler.

Just my thoughts.


2004 Liquid Silver SE
84,500 miles.

 

You loose braking performance with drilled rotors...less surface area for the pads to grab onto, and seldom do they heat up that bad that you would need drilled rotors. Slotted rotors would be slightly beneficial, but drilled= Not trying to bash you, but stating what almost 90% of the "veterans" on the org have said.

dan

 

wait sorry dan buh i wanted to say this...i've heard that drilled and slotted first of all are performance rotors...for a reason they are called performance. the purpose of the cross drilling of the rotors is to remove the gas that builds up during the braking process.

"Brake pads will outgas and under use may create boundary layer of gas between the pad and the disc hurting braking performance."

granted it is also true that now and days newer brake pads don't have the gas build up problem...however solid faced rotors still have a problem...

"Cross drilling was created to provide the gas someplace to escape. Although modern brake pads seldom suffer from outgassing problems, water residue may build up after a vehicle passes through a puddle and impede braking performance. For this reason, and for heat dissipation purposes, Cross Drilling is still used on some braking components."

and from what my friend has told me about slottted rotors...unless i plann on racing it have funn buying new pads...slotted rotors in his view are like a meat cutter to brake pads.

"Slotted discs are generally not used on standard vehicles because they quickly wear down brake pads, however, this removal of material is beneficial to race vehicles since it keeps the pads soft and avoids vitrification of their surfaces."

sorry dan shyt i might be completely wrong. buh no disrespect at all but those are the published facts about brakes and i've seen first hand and through friends of mine with slotted and drilled and both rotors and all of them will say...brake performance def goes up...however the better the performance the faster the pads go. and don't forget our cars aren't slow...and they sure as hell aren't light...

damn i could of sworn that kam was chewing through pads with his slotted rotors like no tomorrow...buh i might be wrong.

as for the brake problem...try the torquing method...if not you said you have aftermarket brake pads have you broken into them yet? that might be why? i mean the proper break in...with the rear its pretty easy...just lock up the e-brake until it can stop the car on idle drive. and then drive normally for about 1/2 to 1 mile and you should be good in the rear. light driving...

 

I have drilled/slotted rotors for looks...

Recent pads don't give up gas anymore so drilled is really not necessary.
Drilled rotors must be monitored as some cheap ones MAY develop cracks around the holes (large cracks could lead to disk breakup during panic stop). Maybe not the best strategy to reduce disk weight by only 1-2%. Noisier than blanks during heavy breaking. Most (if any) shops cannot turn drilled rotors. They do reduce surface area contact (4-8%). You have to compensate with better/harder pads. I also suspect that the drilled/slotted may be less resistant to warpage.

EBC brakes say that slotted rotors are OK because they cleans up the pad, remove scratches and glazing (shorten their life so you buy more!). None of the pad manufacturers endorse drilled rotors. A lot of info exist on the net on drilled/slotted rotors.

Some auto parts web site show the Maxima OEM pads as ceramic. Can anyone confirm?

Trilitai,
one rear rotor may be slightly warped. At the front, you would feel it through the steering and a small pulsation in the brake pedal. The back is harder to detect.

It could be brake dust and/or a cheap pad design creating a vibration. May be missing a shim (cuts down the vibrations) due to improper installation. Did you change the pads yourself? Were the rotors turned? You may have road debris stuck between the pad and the rotor. Take the pads off (or pay the shop $120) and check the surface for grooves, or uneven wear pattern. Is the caliper sliding freely?

 

Yes the OEM Brake pads are Akebono ceramics. Alot of people believe its these ceramic pads that cause the rotors to warp, because the ceramics hardly ever wear down.

 

Thanks .