adding oil
adding oil
I have had issues with some oil usage on all 3 of my maximas that i've had..and Ive asked around and some oil usage is normal, not to a significant amount though. I usually leave a few extra quarts of oil in my garage for use between oil changes. I change my oil myself every 3K religiously. 
I have my oil change reminder set to 500 miles (to check level) and I use my trip B to clock my mileage to 3000. I check the oil every 500 and have come to this conclusion. When the oil approaches the L mark on the dipstick, or just below it, I found it needs 1/2 quart - 3/4 quart of oil added to bring it back near the H line. Careful not to overfill it though. I usually run the car after adding oil and than check it again later to be sure ive added enough, but not too much. (PS new BMWs also high performance engines are known to use oil, hence when their yellow oil light comes on they need to add 1 quart of oil) so were not the only ones with this issue.
I just brought this up because I had ignored the consumption issue for awhile and found myself with an almost dry dipstick a few times. So, just take a few minutes out and check your oil level occcasionally, especially if you drive hard. The maintence reminder system is a good system to use for it. Youll be glad you did instead of running on low oil and ruining your VQ.
I have my oil change reminder set to 500 miles (to check level) and I use my trip B to clock my mileage to 3000. I check the oil every 500 and have come to this conclusion. When the oil approaches the L mark on the dipstick, or just below it, I found it needs 1/2 quart - 3/4 quart of oil added to bring it back near the H line. Careful not to overfill it though. I usually run the car after adding oil and than check it again later to be sure ive added enough, but not too much. (PS new BMWs also high performance engines are known to use oil, hence when their yellow oil light comes on they need to add 1 quart of oil) so were not the only ones with this issue.I just brought this up because I had ignored the consumption issue for awhile and found myself with an almost dry dipstick a few times. So, just take a few minutes out and check your oil level occcasionally, especially if you drive hard. The maintence reminder system is a good system to use for it. Youll be glad you did instead of running on low oil and ruining your VQ.
no I use castrol GTX regular oil. I used synthetic in my 3.0 and regular in my first 3.5 i didnt notice much of a difference. But yea if I did use synthetic than I could wait much longer in between oil changes. Castrol GTX seems to be the preferred oil as per these forums...mobil 1 syn is on the list also I believe.
PS prjctmax do you add any oil in between oil changes? if so, how much ?
PS prjctmax do you add any oil in between oil changes? if so, how much ?
My max consumes approx 1 quart every 3K i drive pretty hard, and max pays a few visits to high rpms (6K-redline) everyday. i dont know the condition of my precats. way to tell?
Originally Posted by Y2k2maxse
no I use castrol GTX regular oil. I used synthetic in my 3.0 and regular in my first 3.5 i didnt notice much of a difference. But yea if I did use synthetic than I could wait much longer in between oil changes. Castrol GTX seems to be the preferred oil as per these forums...mobil 1 syn is on the list also I believe.
PS prjctmax do you add any oil in between oil changes? if so, how much ?
PS prjctmax do you add any oil in between oil changes? if so, how much ?
I don't add any oil in between changes. There is a slight consumption, but nothing major. I think I may check it again tomorrow morning though just to be safe
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 10,197
From: Displaced New Yorker in Southern, MD
I have never needed to add oil between changes and I change mine every 5-6K, I use to use Mobile 1 sync, now I use Royal Purple...
Again zero issues...
Again zero issues...
Originally Posted by chernmax
I have never needed to add oil between changes and I change mine every 5-6K, I use to use Mobile 1 sync, now I use Royal Purple...
Again zero issues...
Again zero issues...
Originally Posted by DeusExMaxima
Why the change to Royal Purple Chern?
"You paid for 300 HP, are you sure you're getting it all?! vroooooooooooom ppssst! *STI driving* "
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 10,197
From: Displaced New Yorker in Southern, MD
Originally Posted by DeusExMaxima
Why the change to Royal Purple Chern?
http://www.royalpurple.com/techi/whyrpi.html
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 10,197
From: Displaced New Yorker in Southern, MD
Originally Posted by !PrjctMax!
cause' of the crazy commercials that they have!
"You paid for 300 HP, are you sure you're getting it all?! vroooooooooooom ppssst! *STI driving* "
"You paid for 300 HP, are you sure you're getting it all?! vroooooooooooom ppssst! *STI driving* "
Originally Posted by chernmax
Superior oil that has been dyno proven to increase HP. I didn't believe it myself until I tried it and it's all I will use now...
http://www.royalpurple.com/techi/whyrpi.html
http://www.royalpurple.com/techi/whyrpi.html
dan
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 10,197
From: Displaced New Yorker in Southern, MD
Originally Posted by !PrjctMax!
hmmmmmmm I may have to try this out on my next oil change. Have you actually noticed any difference(s) after changing to this oil? Also, would it be "safe" to swap for me right now, when all that I have been using is Mobil 1 Synthetic for all of my oil changes and I have 40,xxx miles.
dan
dan
Senior Member
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 8,143
From: a meadow south of Atlanta
I am using whatever dino oil the dealer is using. I don't even know what brand it is. Years ago (way back when I was in my sixties), I changed my own oil, and always used Castrol GTX dino oil.
I'm not sure why, but my last three Maximas have not used oil. I check it fairly regularly, and always before and after any extended trip, and it is always at or very near the full mark after each 3750 miles (when I change).
I don't know if there is a correlation, but I am very very careful with the break-in period, and use my own system, which takes 2500 miles before the first hard driving.
I have had good luck with dino oil, having taken two of my early Maximas over 200,000 miles with it, and having had no engine problems ever in any Maxima. If I ever did switch to synthetic oil, I would do it around 20K miles, when the engine is totally and completely broken in, and all the parts have fitted themselves together perfectly.
Of course most of the meshing happens during the first 10K miles, so it should be fine to change at that point. Changing to synthetic before 10K miles means the engine is not fully broken in, not operating as efficiently as it is designed to do, and, with synthetic offering such superior lubrication, the engine will have a difficult time completing the break-in and meshing of parts.
I'm not sure why, but my last three Maximas have not used oil. I check it fairly regularly, and always before and after any extended trip, and it is always at or very near the full mark after each 3750 miles (when I change).
I don't know if there is a correlation, but I am very very careful with the break-in period, and use my own system, which takes 2500 miles before the first hard driving.
I have had good luck with dino oil, having taken two of my early Maximas over 200,000 miles with it, and having had no engine problems ever in any Maxima. If I ever did switch to synthetic oil, I would do it around 20K miles, when the engine is totally and completely broken in, and all the parts have fitted themselves together perfectly.
Of course most of the meshing happens during the first 10K miles, so it should be fine to change at that point. Changing to synthetic before 10K miles means the engine is not fully broken in, not operating as efficiently as it is designed to do, and, with synthetic offering such superior lubrication, the engine will have a difficult time completing the break-in and meshing of parts.
Senior Member
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 187
Originally Posted by !PrjctMax!
hmmmmmmm I may have to try this out on my next oil change. Have you actually noticed any difference(s) after changing to this oil? Also, would it be "safe" to swap for me right now, when all that I have been using is Mobil 1 Synthetic for all of my oil changes and I have 40,xxx miles.
dan
dan
Yes, break-in is critical. I switched to AMSOIL at 14K. Oil analysis at 17K revealed my engine was still not fully broken in. Switched back to dino oil for now.I never add oil between oil changes and the dipstick level does not change. I rev the engine constantly @3K-4K and often to redline. I have owned dirt bikes, road bikes, Chevy, Ford, Dodge, Toyota's, Honda's and never added oil. My Camry @200K would be down to low just before the next oil change.
Owning 3 Maxima's and having oil consumption issues on all three is not a coincidence IMO.
Originally Posted by Y2k2maxse
I just brought this up because I had ignored the consumption issue for awhile and found myself with an almost dry dipstick a few times. So, just take a few minutes out and check your oil level occcasionally, especially if you drive hard. The maintence reminder system is a good system to use for it. Youll be glad you did instead of running on low oil and ruining your VQ.
It was burning oil?? didnt know why.... got an explanation from a district tech.
"Oil drained onto rear pre cat, rear pre cat fell apart, back pulses sucked rear pre cat into motor, motor got scaved on the inside.... we give u new motor, see ya."
OK
Kamski
Originally Posted by kamilkluczewski
K, so my car is going in tommorow for a new motor,
It was burning oil?? didnt know why.... got an explanation from a district tech.
"Oil drained onto rear pre cat, rear pre cat fell apart, back pulses sucked rear pre cat into motor, motor got scaved on the inside.... we give u new motor, see ya."
OK
Kamski
It was burning oil?? didnt know why.... got an explanation from a district tech.
"Oil drained onto rear pre cat, rear pre cat fell apart, back pulses sucked rear pre cat into motor, motor got scaved on the inside.... we give u new motor, see ya."
OK
Kamski
Originally Posted by kamilkluczewski
K, so my car is going in tommorow for a new motor,
It was burning oil?? didnt know why.... got an explanation from a district tech.
"Oil drained onto rear pre cat, rear pre cat fell apart, back pulses sucked rear pre cat into motor, motor got scaved on the inside.... we give u new motor, see ya."
OK
Kamski
It was burning oil?? didnt know why.... got an explanation from a district tech.
"Oil drained onto rear pre cat, rear pre cat fell apart, back pulses sucked rear pre cat into motor, motor got scaved on the inside.... we give u new motor, see ya."
OK
Kamski
Forget my skepticism about the engine sucking precat back. You are getting a new motor, that is the essential.
I'm not sure if it'll fit our car or not, but JWT makes an oil pan spacer kit for the VQ35DE I believe. This should let you run with 1 extra quart in your oil pan. Google "JWT oil pan spacer" to find them, or of course check eBay.
Senior Member
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 8,143
From: a meadow south of Atlanta
SLVRMAXX - No, there is not a definitive break-in mileage point, as driving conditions, driving habits, climate, humidity, dust, oil used, even two supposedly 'alike' 6th gen Maxima engines vary.
I personally use a 25K break-in process, but feel that, under almost any conditions (assuming only dino oil has been used), the engine should be considered essentially broken in by around 12K, and, with a few possible exceptions, fully broken in by around 20K.
I personally use a 25K break-in process, but feel that, under almost any conditions (assuming only dino oil has been used), the engine should be considered essentially broken in by around 12K, and, with a few possible exceptions, fully broken in by around 20K.
Originally Posted by !PrjctMax!
hmmmmmmm I may have to try this out on my next oil change. Have you actually noticed any difference(s) after changing to this oil? Also, would it be "safe" to swap for me right now, when all that I have been using is Mobil 1 Synthetic for all of my oil changes and I have 40,xxx miles.
dan
dan
u guys got me convinced on the royal purple..its now 3000 miles time for an oil change..i just went out to the store picked up 5 quarts of 5w30 royal purple..mobil 1 extended life filter..and a can of engine flush to switch over. will be switching over in a few mins..ill let you all know how all goes. (btw oil, filter, flush.. $52)
Now how many miles can I go on this oil? recommendations?
Now how many miles can I go on this oil? recommendations?
Alright..did the conversion. flushed the engine..drained everything..new filter and royal purple. no probs whatsoever.. i dont really notice any difference...i dont think it will produce a noticable difference..maybe if u looked at the internals microscopically.
Originally Posted by kamilkluczewski
K, so my car is going in tommorow for a new motor,
It was burning oil?? didnt know why.... got an explanation from a district tech.
"Oil drained onto rear pre cat, rear pre cat fell apart, back pulses sucked rear pre cat into motor, motor got scaved on the inside.... we give u new motor, see ya."
OK
Kamski
It was burning oil?? didnt know why.... got an explanation from a district tech.
"Oil drained onto rear pre cat, rear pre cat fell apart, back pulses sucked rear pre cat into motor, motor got scaved on the inside.... we give u new motor, see ya."
OK
Kamski
Originally Posted by Y2k2maxse
Alright..did the conversion. flushed the engine..drained everything..new filter and royal purple. no probs whatsoever.. i dont really notice any difference...i dont think it will produce a noticable difference..maybe if u looked at the internals microscopically.
Senior Member
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 1,994
From: Colorado Springs, Colorado
This thread belongs on the Fluids and Lubes section of this site. Surprised they have not moved it.
They will, eventually.
It sounds like your VQ is burning more than just a little motor oil. My QV burns about 1/2 a quart in about 5K miles -- which is when I usually add 1/2 a quart to make up for the burned oil. Given your higher burn rate, I see why you check the level every 500 miles. I check mine about every 1 K miles.
If you use the larger Mobil 1 oil filter, you will need about 1/2 of a quart more motor oil than the owners' manual calls for with an oil change. I would not change the oil sump to get another 1 quart of oil in the engine.
"light's" recommendations are right-on. A lube specialist I know also recommends sticking with dino-oil. But I use Mobil 1 and a longer OCI than the 3,750 mile Nissan recommendation. As long as the power train warranty is in effect, you should not exceed 7,500 miles (the maximum that Nissan recommends). With more than 60 K miles on it, I am now changing my Mobil 1 at about 10 K miles.
They will, eventually.
It sounds like your VQ is burning more than just a little motor oil. My QV burns about 1/2 a quart in about 5K miles -- which is when I usually add 1/2 a quart to make up for the burned oil. Given your higher burn rate, I see why you check the level every 500 miles. I check mine about every 1 K miles.
If you use the larger Mobil 1 oil filter, you will need about 1/2 of a quart more motor oil than the owners' manual calls for with an oil change. I would not change the oil sump to get another 1 quart of oil in the engine.
"light's" recommendations are right-on. A lube specialist I know also recommends sticking with dino-oil. But I use Mobil 1 and a longer OCI than the 3,750 mile Nissan recommendation. As long as the power train warranty is in effect, you should not exceed 7,500 miles (the maximum that Nissan recommends). With more than 60 K miles on it, I am now changing my Mobil 1 at about 10 K miles.
Last edited by SilverMax_04; Sep 16, 2007 at 10:21 PM.
SLVRMAXX - No, there is not a definitive break-in mileage point, as driving conditions, driving habits, climate, humidity, dust, oil used, even two supposedly 'alike' 6th gen Maxima engines vary.
I personally use a 25K break-in process, but feel that, under almost any conditions (assuming only dino oil has been used), the engine should be considered essentially broken in by around 12K, and, with a few possible exceptions, fully broken in by around 20K.
I personally use a 25K break-in process, but feel that, under almost any conditions (assuming only dino oil has been used), the engine should be considered essentially broken in by around 12K, and, with a few possible exceptions, fully broken in by around 20K.
