6th Generation Maxima (2004-2008) Discussion of the 6th generation Maxima. Come see what others are saying.

Front Endlinks No Instructions...

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old Oct 24, 2007 | 08:37 PM
  #1  
coolmax05's Avatar
Thread Starter
Supporting Maxima.org Member
iTrader: (8)
 
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 804
Front Endlinks No Instructions...

For some ungodly reason I did not receive any instructions-so I guess it's suppose to be totally obvious how these things go together.

Me being stupid has caused me to resort to you smart folks for a clue.

First here's how it looks. As you can see there are two different sizes of bushings. The bushings have metal inserts and one side is flush and the other side isn't.



My guess is it goes together like this...
EDIT: I have since been told the endlink bar is installed "upsidedown".



I'm sure I'm wrong. NEED HELP!!!

Last edited by coolmax05; Oct 26, 2007 at 07:50 AM.
Old Oct 24, 2007 | 08:42 PM
  #2  
RHMax's Avatar
Newbie just Registered
 
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 2,795
From: LA/OC, CA
I'll let you know when I get mine... Tomorrow?

I'm guessing the uneven bushings has something to do with the endlinks not touching other parts.
Old Oct 24, 2007 | 10:50 PM
  #3  
jimmypronet's Avatar
Senior Member
 
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 351
From: Fort Worth, Texas Baby
Guys where can you get those front and rear End links? Thnx
Old Oct 24, 2007 | 11:06 PM
  #4  
DeusExMaxima's Avatar
Supporting Maxima.org Member
iTrader: (1)
 
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 7,353
From: Upland CA
Originally Posted by jimmypronet
Guys where can you get those front and rear End links? Thnx
Racingline - PM taz on here
Old Oct 25, 2007 | 04:27 AM
  #5  
ramberg's Avatar
GrandPa
iTrader: (29)
 
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 3,914
From: Brooklyn, NY & Plantation, Fl.
I didn't get instructions either. It looks like the bigger brushing should on the side where the nut is.
Old Oct 25, 2007 | 04:49 AM
  #6  
cyclopsmd's Avatar
Donating Maxima.org Member
 
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 103
Yeah, I think you put it on upside down from the picture there. If you look at the stock front endlinks, the pivoting head thingy is on the bottom, attached to the swaybar. Just a guess, though. I haven't installed mine yet, because it started raining on me last night
Old Oct 25, 2007 | 05:08 AM
  #7  
TAZ's Avatar
TAZ
Supporting Maxima.org Member
iTrader: (20)
 
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 589
From: vancouver, BC
my apologies. the intension was for them to be installed the other way around with the larger bushing closer to the srtut. reason being it will give more clearance down by your axle to avoid possible touching of the CV boot.

Old Oct 25, 2007 | 05:20 AM
  #8  
Albert's Avatar
Supporting Maxima.org Member
 
Joined: Aug 2000
Posts: 464
What material is the front endlinks? For the rear ones, I had to paint them
with Rustoleum to avoid rusting.
Old Oct 25, 2007 | 05:44 AM
  #9  
ecks's Avatar
I piss on Civics.
 
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 214
How is the ride after this install? Would this affect the handling more than the FTSB I am about to order? TAZ! PUSH ME OVER thE EDGE! I should get both! !!!
Old Oct 25, 2007 | 05:44 AM
  #10  
TAZ's Avatar
TAZ
Supporting Maxima.org Member
iTrader: (20)
 
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 589
From: vancouver, BC
the shaft is anodized aluminum, the hiem is chrome plated chromoly alloy steel, and the ball joint is steel.
Old Oct 25, 2007 | 05:46 AM
  #11  
TAZ's Avatar
TAZ
Supporting Maxima.org Member
iTrader: (20)
 
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 589
From: vancouver, BC
the more you buy the better your car will be hehehe
Old Oct 25, 2007 | 06:13 AM
  #12  
Mack's Avatar
Senior Member
iTrader: (1)
 
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 1,051
From: Atlanta, GA
Mine should be in soon as well. Thanks for the great info Taz!
Old Oct 25, 2007 | 08:00 AM
  #13  
ecks's Avatar
I piss on Civics.
 
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 214
Originally Posted by taz
the more you buy the better your car will be hehehe

blah you bastard.. why must you trick my feeble maxxed out mind taz..

/me ordering now.
Old Oct 25, 2007 | 08:50 AM
  #14  
Albert's Avatar
Supporting Maxima.org Member
 
Joined: Aug 2000
Posts: 464
Originally Posted by ecksy
How is the ride after this install? Would this affect the handling more than the FTSB I am about to order? TAZ! PUSH ME OVER thE EDGE! I should get both! !!!
The strut bar should help entering a turn.
Once in the turn the endlinks will help.
Old Oct 25, 2007 | 09:09 AM
  #15  
coolmax05's Avatar
Thread Starter
Supporting Maxima.org Member
iTrader: (8)
 
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 804
Originally Posted by cyclopsmd
Yeah, I think you put it on upside down from the picture there. If you look at the stock front endlinks, the pivoting head thingy is on the bottom, attached to the swaybar. Just a guess, though. I haven't installed mine yet, because it started raining on me last night

It pivots on the top & bottom equally.

The bigger bushing is on the strut side in the picture.

I slapped the other side on and tightened everything up. I gently lowered the car. I gently pulled the car down and over the curb. Then I turned the wheel left and right all the way while slowly going faster and faster. Went over speedbumps and dips in the road at over 30mph. Car runs perfectly!

Car feels more solid to say the least. Definetly even more responsive. The endlinks does inspire even more confidence. We are talkin' uppin' the fun factor without takin' a hit in ride quality folks.

I am lovin' my new front endlinks and do recommend this nice upgrade.

Everything lined up beautifully on the install so I now believe it is correct.
Getting the bottom bolt off the old sway bar link is no joke. Here is how you do it...

Jack the front car up on jack stands.
Take both wheels off.
Because the bolts are very tight and little room to work with--you need to remove both sway bar endlink bolts attached to the strut first. This allows the sway bar to move freely. Then you can get your ratchet on the bottom bolt. Once you do that temporarily attach the top bolt (while keeping the ratchet on the bottom bolt) to the strut again so the bar won't move. This will make it waaaay easier to remove the bottom bolt.

To remove the endlinks you're going to need 17mm socket. And a I believe a 3/4 inch open wrench to keep it from spinning. The ratchet needs to be long for leverage. Be sure to spray some bolt loosener in there first at least 1/2 hour before the removal.

The new endlinks needs (2) 3/4 inch open wrenches and a 3/4 inch socket along with the ratchet.

You're going to love this Mod.
Old Oct 25, 2007 | 10:59 AM
  #16  
DeusExMaxima's Avatar
Supporting Maxima.org Member
iTrader: (1)
 
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 7,353
From: Upland CA
I agree that the car feels more solid. This is because the endlinks restrict the movement of the sway bar, which is more efficient, thus making the handling better. I can wiggle the OEM endlinks with my hand, but not the Racingline Endlinks. These really work. The sway bar/endlink combo is an inexpensive upgrade that is great bang-for-the-buck.
Old Oct 25, 2007 | 01:50 PM
  #17  
ramberg's Avatar
GrandPa
iTrader: (29)
 
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 3,914
From: Brooklyn, NY & Plantation, Fl.
Originally Posted by coolmax05
It pivots on the top & bottom equally.

The bigger bushing is on the strut side in the picture.

I slapped the other side on and tightened everything up. I gently lowered the car. I gently pulled the car down and over the curb. Then I turned the wheel left and right all the way while slowly going faster and faster. Went over speedbumps and dips in the road at over 30mph. Car runs perfectly!

Car feels more solid to say the least. Definetly even more responsive. The endlinks does inspire even more confidence. We are talkin' uppin' the fun factor without takin' a hit in ride quality folks.

I am lovin' my new front endlinks and do recommend this nice upgrade.

Everything lined up beautifully on the install so I now believe it is correct.
Getting the bottom bolt off the old sway bar link is no joke. Here is how you do it...

Jack the front car up on jack stands.
Take both wheels off.
Because the bolts are very tight and little room to work with--you need to remove both sway bar endlink bolts attached to the strut first. This allows the sway bar to move freely. Then you can get your ratchet on the bottom bolt. Once you do that temporarily attach the top bolt (while keeping the ratchet on the bottom bolt) to the strut again so the bar won't move. This will make it waaaay easier to remove the bottom bolt.

To remove the endlinks you're going to need 17mm socket. And a I believe a 3/4 inch open wrench to keep it from spinning. The ratchet needs to be long for leverage. Be sure to spray some bolt loosener in there first at least 1/2 hour before the removal.

The new endlinks needs (2) 3/4 inch open wrenches and a 3/4 inch socket along with the ratchet.

You're going to love this Mod.
Thanks for the install instructions.
Old Oct 25, 2007 | 02:13 PM
  #18  
coolmax05's Avatar
Thread Starter
Supporting Maxima.org Member
iTrader: (8)
 
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 804
Originally Posted by ramberg
Thanks for the install instructions.
My pleasure Warren.

Taz, what does this mean (why so ambiguous)?

"The intension was for them to be installed the other way around with the larger bushing closer to the srtut. reason being it will give more clearance down by your axle to avoid possible touching of the CV boot."

The other way around pertains to what (the bushing, the link itself, both, backwards, upsidedown)???

Based on the clearer picture I provided is it correct? Does it matter? Who's the next President, and finally who will win the world series???
Old Oct 25, 2007 | 02:32 PM
  #19  
cyclopsmd's Avatar
Donating Maxima.org Member
 
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 103
coolmax - your picture at the beginning of this thread has the endlink upside down compared to the one Taz put in his message...
Old Oct 25, 2007 | 02:33 PM
  #20  
cyclopsmd's Avatar
Donating Maxima.org Member
 
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 103
that bolt with the two bushings that are different sizes is supposed to be connected to your strut. In your picture, you have that bolt connected down at your swaybar, which makes the bolt come very close to your cv boot.....
Old Oct 25, 2007 | 02:47 PM
  #21  
coolmax05's Avatar
Thread Starter
Supporting Maxima.org Member
iTrader: (8)
 
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 804
Originally Posted by cyclopsmd
coolmax - your picture at the beginning of this thread has the endlink upside down compared to the one Taz put in his message...

Really? How can you tell (I can't see it)? To me they look the same way.

You wouldn't happen to be utilizing a scanning electronic Microscope combined with a digital enhancing amplifier would you? J/K

It seems to me what your're suggesting would put the endlinks at a angle as oppose to strait up and down like I have now. Not saying you're incorrect but playing "devil's advocate".

EDIT: The cv boot has plenty of clearance (1.5-2.0 inches) no matter how far right or left I turn the steering wheel. After 35 miles everything still looks perfect!

Last edited by coolmax05; Oct 25, 2007 at 03:30 PM.
Old Oct 25, 2007 | 03:50 PM
  #22  
cyclopsmd's Avatar
Donating Maxima.org Member
 
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 103
hahahahaha. Welllllllllllllllllllll, I am blind in one eye, which I am sure makes my other one have super powers! I just looked at the things (they are sitting on my desk in the garage). The two ends are definitely different. There is one end that has an O ring on it that the bolt with the asymmetrical bushings fits through. The other end has a bolt already built into it that does not come off. That end with the built in bolt is the one that is on the bottom of Taz' picture if you look at it closely, and that end is the one that most closely resembles the swaybar end on the oem endlink... I don't know if it matters or not....
BTW, did you have to use air tools to get those bolts off the swaybar? I tried for about 5 minutes last night with a regular ratchet, but did not try the PB Blaster yet...

Jon
Old Oct 25, 2007 | 03:51 PM
  #23  
cyclopsmd's Avatar
Donating Maxima.org Member
 
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 103
coolmax, again, I am no expert - I am just a poor slop like you who is trying to put this thing on without directions, so everything I have said to this point is all deduced by my own twisted logic and my bionic eye!
Old Oct 25, 2007 | 04:48 PM
  #24  
coolmax05's Avatar
Thread Starter
Supporting Maxima.org Member
iTrader: (8)
 
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 804
[QUOTE=BTW, did you have to use air tools to get those bolts off the swaybar? I tried for about 5 minutes last night with a regular ratchet, but did not try the PB Blaster yet...

Jon[/QUOTE]

I posted the technique I used (look at previous post). I do not have any air tools just a lot of hot air.

Originally Posted by cyclopsmd
coolmax, again, I am no expert - I am just a poor slop like you who is trying to put this thing on without directions, so everything I have said to this point is all deduced by my own twisted logic and my bionic eye!
I hear ya Bro. I am a poorer slob just improvising like yourself. Notice nobody even the manufacturer wants to touch this one. I'll lower my deductable on my towing insurance and walk old ladies across the street for now.

You must have a bionic eye if you can tell up from down in that picture. Between the two of us (mutt & jeff) I'm sure we will be needing new airbags soon. Best of luck to you pal. Hopefully we will end up in the same hospital.
Old Oct 25, 2007 | 05:03 PM
  #25  
kamski's Avatar
.org extraordinaire
iTrader: (9)
 
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 2,618
Originally Posted by coolmax05
For some ungodly reason I did not receive any instructions-so I guess it's suppose to be totally obvious how these things go together.

Me being stupid has caused me to resort to you smart folks for a clue.

First here's how it looks. As you can see there are two different sizes of bushings. The bushings have metal inserts and one side is flush and the other side isn't. I'm guessing the side that is not flush faces twords the middle.



My guess is it goes together like this...



I'm sure I'm wrong. NEED HELP!!!
ENDLINK Is upside down duude.

Kamski
Old Oct 25, 2007 | 08:42 PM
  #26  
chernmax's Avatar
Nations 1st 6th Gen Turbo
iTrader: (15)
 
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 10,197
From: Displaced New Yorker in Southern, MD
Received my new front endlinks today also and installed. The look and fit are great, haven't really put my cay through much moves to really test because we have had 2 straight days of much needed moderate to heavy rains and the roads are wet as **** (sorry west coast)...


But not like that ^^^^^^^^^^^^ mine are turned around, luckily I caught this thread before I left to install them!!!
Old Oct 26, 2007 | 07:01 AM
  #27  
07 Graymax's Avatar
Senior Member
 
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 202
From: alta loma ca 91737
got mine and installing today yahoo wifes b-day gift to me gotta luv her
Old Oct 26, 2007 | 07:08 AM
  #28  
Mack's Avatar
Senior Member
iTrader: (1)
 
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 1,051
From: Atlanta, GA
Originally Posted by 07 Graymax
got mine and installing today yahoo wifes b-day gift to me gotta luv her
Dude does she have a twin sister. Could I clone her perhaps?
Old Oct 26, 2007 | 09:38 AM
  #29  
ramberg's Avatar
GrandPa
iTrader: (29)
 
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 3,914
From: Brooklyn, NY & Plantation, Fl.
I had mine installed this morning.
Old Oct 26, 2007 | 10:15 AM
  #30  
07 Graymax's Avatar
Senior Member
 
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 202
From: alta loma ca 91737
sorry no but twice the fun ummm just got links installed my mechanic installed for a gift to me what a place he does all installs for me and will do the exhaust too
Old Oct 26, 2007 | 11:55 AM
  #31  
coolmax05's Avatar
Thread Starter
Supporting Maxima.org Member
iTrader: (8)
 
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 804
Thanks for the feedback guys regarding the links being upsidedown.

I want to thank "Racingline" for producing this fine product. The product works so well, you can install it upsidedown and still improve upon your handling.

Again, the car feels sooo much more solid.
Flatter cornering.
Faster steering response.


I have mine set for factory length even tho I'm lowered 2 inches in the front. I think it's perfect. You folks want bang for the buck? Get yourself one of these badboys.
Old Oct 26, 2007 | 01:35 PM
  #32  
ramberg's Avatar
GrandPa
iTrader: (29)
 
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 3,914
From: Brooklyn, NY & Plantation, Fl.
Originally Posted by coolmax05
Thanks for the feedback guys regarding the links being upsidedown.

I want to thank "Racingline" for producing this fine product. The product works so well, you can install it upsidedown and still improve upon your handling.

Again, the car feels sooo much more solid.
Flatter cornering.
Faster steering response.


I have mine set for factory length even tho I'm lowered 2 inches in the front. I think it's perfect. You folks want bang for the buck? Get yourself one of these badboys.
I also kept it at the factory level. My car is also lowered.
Old Oct 26, 2007 | 01:43 PM
  #33  
coolmax05's Avatar
Thread Starter
Supporting Maxima.org Member
iTrader: (8)
 
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 804
Originally Posted by ramberg
I also kept it at the factory level. My car is also lowered.

Hey Ramberg,

In your opinion, what effect (if any) did it have on your ride?

As a side note...

I got the front strut bar today. It's gorgeous! I installed it in a mere 10 minutes.

So far all I have noticed is a smoother ride...even more supple.
I'll crank up the konis from 1 turn to two turns and call it the day!

No question tho, the front end links did more for me. Maybe if I had installed the two in reverse order I would have noticed more from the brace.
Old Oct 26, 2007 | 01:52 PM
  #34  
ramberg's Avatar
GrandPa
iTrader: (29)
 
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 3,914
From: Brooklyn, NY & Plantation, Fl.
Originally Posted by coolmax05
Hey Ramberg,

In your opinion, what effect (if any) did it have on your ride?

As a side note...

I got the front strut bar today. It's gorgeous! I installed it in a mere 10 minutes.

So far all I have noticed is a smoother ride...even more supple.
I'll crank up the konis from 1 turn to two turns and call it the day!

No question tho, the front end links did more for me. Maybe if I had installed the two in reverse order I would have noticed more from the brace.
I have the Stillen FSB. Since I went home after the install because I had other things to do, I did not test out the ride. I will be driving to NJ for the week end so I will post any results on Sunday night.
Old Oct 26, 2007 | 04:05 PM
  #35  
RHMax's Avatar
Newbie just Registered
 
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 2,795
From: LA/OC, CA
What would be the difference between making them shorter or stock length?
Old Oct 26, 2007 | 04:53 PM
  #36  
coolmax05's Avatar
Thread Starter
Supporting Maxima.org Member
iTrader: (8)
 
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 804
Originally Posted by RHMax
What would be the difference between making them shorter or stock length?
I'm assuming you're talking about the "front endlinks" Bro.

Regarding the endlink-------------the longer the endlink, the more "engaged" and earlier your sway bar will kick in on turns. "Called pre-loading."

The thicker the sway bar the less need for pre-loading. If you over lengthen the endlinks you'll mess up the ride quality and create twitchy handling.

The endlinks is the bar between your sway bar and what your sway bar ultimately connects to (a shock or body of the car).

Imagine if you will, the upper arm being the sway bar. Without the forearm/endlink you'll have to be closer to someone before your hand engages whatever it's aimed at (usually the head). The longer the forearm/endlink for a given distance from the target, the quicker you will engage that target by way of less distance traveled. Here is a illustration...
Old Oct 26, 2007 | 06:18 PM
  #37  
RHMax's Avatar
Newbie just Registered
 
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 2,795
From: LA/OC, CA
Originally Posted by coolmax05
I'm assuming you're talking about the "front endlinks" Bro.

Regarding the endlink-------------the longer the endlink, the more "engaged" and earlier your sway bar will kick in on turns. "Called pre-loading."

The thicker the sway bar the less need for pre-loading. If you over lengthen the endlinks you'll mess up the ride quality and create twitchy handling.

The endlinks is the bar between your sway bar and what your sway bar ultimately connects to (a shock or body of the car).

Imagine if you will, the upper arm being the sway bar. Without the forearm/endlink you'll have to be closer to someone before your hand engages whatever it's aimed at (usually the head). The longer the forearm/endlink for a given distance from the target, the quicker you will engage that target by way of less distance traveled. Here is a illustration...
But since the sway bar connects left and right suspension and only attached to the body to basically hold it in place, won't pre-loading mean make one side or the other shorter?
Old Oct 26, 2007 | 08:03 PM
  #38  
cyclopsmd's Avatar
Donating Maxima.org Member
 
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 103
hmmmm. So I wonder if those of us without upgraded swaybars should actually be setting these longer? I just finally installed mine today. Unfortunately, it is raining here, so couldn't really test them out much. I just have them set to factory length as well, and I am also lowered on progress/gr2's..
Old Oct 27, 2007 | 11:43 AM
  #39  
RHMax's Avatar
Newbie just Registered
 
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 2,795
From: LA/OC, CA
Check out this article:whiteline

Swaybar preload adjustment - rarely a good idea
Preload of the swaybar implies that once installed the bar is loaded in torsion and applies load to the suspension system. The static result of this is that the body or chassis has been preloaded in roll and may be at a visible angle if the preload is large enough. This preload also effects the weight distribution at the tyre contact patch, both left and right and diagonal.

Dynamically the sway bar will be able to resist roll in one direction much greater than it would if it where installed without any preload. However cornering in the opposite direction the bar will allow and promote chassis roll until it has unwound or “used up” its preload, at which point the swaybar is unloaded at some cornering level. Beyond this the swaybar will provide the usual roll resistance or roll stiffness (less than a non-preloaded swaybar).

This effect is very asymmetric, although actual amount or effect it has could be minimal. The possible reasons for such a design could be to match a chassis which has its CG offset to one side, compensating any effects of that. It can also be used to modify the handling of cars that run on specific tracks, like oval racing, which benefit from asymmetric setups.

At Whiteline our swaybars are designed to provide no preload once installed, giving symmetrical roll resistance. We have not encountered any OE swaybars that are designed by preload.
Old Oct 27, 2007 | 12:13 PM
  #40  
coolmax05's Avatar
Thread Starter
Supporting Maxima.org Member
iTrader: (8)
 
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 804
Here is how you adjust the front & rear endlinks...

Estimate your initial setting which in my case was matching the stock length. Then drive. Hardly noticable? Adjust some more then drive. keep doing this until you fall in love. That is the right setting.

I figured if I'm going to get more sway bar intervention because of the way the endlink is designed (I wanted more), then I better at least match factory. Afterall, that's what I have been riding on for 6 Months. To shorten it and expect better performance does not seem logical.

Upon setting it up at as such, this has been in the top two or three as far as my favorite suspension upgrades. Folks the results are amazing! I am telling you after setting it up properly, you will notice a bigger change in your car than most anything you have done to date. We are talkin' far more effective than the strut bar.

The strut bar basically made my ride smoother and therefore allowed me to stiffen my koni struts up front and maintain great ride quality all the while improving handling (recommended).

All aftermarket sway bars as far as I know are made to connect in the same position as stock. They just vary in thickness and stiffness. The diameter of the bar, material, & weather or not it's hollow are all factors.
The Nismo bar (to my knowledge) is the thickest. The endlink's reaction time and it's physical length are very important.

Taz has provided us with a more "reactive" endlink as well as adjustability.

I will say it again, the car feels waaaay more solid, and is a absolute pleasure to drive. A huge part of this is the front endlinks.

Remember, install, test, adjust & test, to your liking...



All times are GMT -7. The time now is 08:33 PM.