RacingLine V2 Rear Endlinks Installation Pics
11-02-2007, 09:16 PM
#1
RacingLine V2 Rear Endlinks Installation Pics
Took some pics today guys while installing Taz's V2 Endlinks (standard zinc option). Enjoy!
Taking off the stock endlinks.
Racingline and Stock endlinks side by side. These babies are sweet!
Taking off the stock endlinks.
Racingline and Stock endlinks side by side. These babies are sweet!
Last edited by Mack; 11-02-2007 at 09:21 PM.
11-04-2007, 07:44 AM
#6
It appears I got the V1 endlink when I ordered a few weeks ago. I just installed them today. I think I should mention that installing these requires (at least for me) you to jack up the wheel hub to reduce the tension on the endlink. As soon as I jacked it up they came off pretty easy. A breaker bar or aluminum pipe over a socket wrench is also a good tool for this job. I seem to have lost my 1/2 inch drive socket extension, which would have proven useful in this job.
11-04-2007, 11:50 AM
#10
11-04-2007, 03:53 PM
#12
11-04-2007, 04:40 PM
#13
Donating Maxima.org Member
Join Date: Jan 2006
Posts: 103
I had the version 1 endlinks, and was getting a popping sound from one side (I had tried to upgrade to the ES bushings, and when I bought a longer bolt, it was only threaded halfway across - I think that prevented me from tightening it down enough). Anyway, with the V2, it is silent. The car also feels more solid around turns, but may also be just because I have these tightened down better...
11-04-2007, 06:53 PM
#15
What "version" of the bushings are you guys getting? I know that taz offers 3 different types.
All I know is that I have the ES bushings on the V1 links and still get a rattle from my rear end. It's funny because once I took off the metal plates that were touching the bar, the noise disappeared for a couple of days and then came back. Now it disappears at night (when it's really cold...about 30-40ish) and is still there in the day time (about 50-60ish)...kind of
but funny at the same time!
All I know is that I have the ES bushings on the V1 links and still get a rattle from my rear end. It's funny because once I took off the metal plates that were touching the bar, the noise disappeared for a couple of days and then came back. Now it disappears at night (when it's really cold...about 30-40ish) and is still there in the day time (about 50-60ish)...kind of
but funny at the same time!
11-05-2007, 11:51 AM
#17
Oh and just an FYI, I didn't have to jack up my hub at all. After I pulled off the stock endlinks I noticed there was no way the Racingline Endlinks would fit, but then I just pushed down had on the swaybar with my hand and it was highly movable, enough so to where I could then easily slide the bolts from the new endlinks in.
Overall, this job was pretty easy. I started to do the front endlinks but my pathetic array of tools just wasn't enough to do it properly, so I'm going to take it to "my guy" and have him put them on for me.
Anyways, I'm not sure if these make a HUGE difference, but I can definitely feel a difference going into corners and whatnot. Looking forward to getting the front set put on. The rear endlinks coupled with the Koni & KYB suspension has made an incredible improvement in handling. I'm sure once I get the front endlinks on it will only improve further. And I cannot express how much higher quality than stock these Racingline units are. Thanks again for putting out such a high quality Taz.
11-05-2007, 12:15 PM
#18
Oh and just an FYI, I didn't have to jack up my hub at all. After I pulled off the stock endlinks I noticed there was no way the Racingline Endlinks would fit, but then I just pushed down had on the swaybar with my hand and it was highly movable, enough so to where I could then easily slide the bolts from the new endlinks in.
I couldn't maneuver myself well enough to get enough pressure on the RSB to lower it more than 1/2 inch. I needed it about 1 to 2 inches lower, so jacking up the hub did the trick easily.
11-05-2007, 12:37 PM
#19
11-05-2007, 12:56 PM
#20
Newbie just Registered
Join Date: May 2005
Location: LA/OC, CA
Posts: 2,795
That's because you only have one wheel lifted so the other side torques the bar. If you lift the backend and remove both stock endlinks first, you won't run into this problem. Jack stands are you friends...
Last edited by RHMax; 11-05-2007 at 04:12 PM.
11-05-2007, 02:46 PM
#22
Perhaps you need a better/longer screw (maybe bolt next time). On the bright side at least you still have your head. Also, next time lock washher (reduces the chance of losing one or more nuts).
Sounds like someone has a screw loose...
Sounds like someone has a screw loose...
11-05-2007, 03:12 PM
#23
Easy install but honestly would've been nice to have a simple set of instructions as I can see where anyone would get confused with the washers. I finally went back in and set it up closer to what Chern has, with a washer both on the inside and then outside the swaybar.
p.s. Deus you did open yourself up for that one. Bwahahah!
p.s. Deus you did open yourself up for that one. Bwahahah!
11-05-2007, 05:41 PM
#24
Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: Pittsburgh, PA
Posts: 634
Easy install but honestly would've been nice to have a simple set of instructions as I can see where anyone would get confused with the washers. I finally went back in and set it up closer to what Chern has, with a washer both on the inside and then outside the swaybar.
p.s. Deus you did open yourself up for that one. Bwahahah!
p.s. Deus you did open yourself up for that one. Bwahahah!
Well worth it though, sir.
Joshua
11-05-2007, 06:08 PM
#25
Install was hard as hell for me thanks to the stock endlinks being impossible to get off! I seriously twisted and twisted and they just spun. I had to take off the top brackets that linked the top of the endlink to the frame, then use a blowtorch to melt the bearing off. Two day project.
Well worth it though, sir.
Joshua
Well worth it though, sir.
Joshua
02-23-2008, 07:17 AM
#29
Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Fort Walton Beach
Posts: 679
Just installed my rear V2 enlinks this morning. Had a problem getting one side installed, then came upstairs and searched. Thank god for pics and descriptive details. Made it much easier once I removed the other side OEM rear endlink. I even had it installed wrong. Easy to screw up I suppose with no instructions, however I had the bushings on either side of the rear sway bar. Came upstairs again looked at the pics and realized the front side of the sway bar only needed the washer and bolt. Again thank god for pics and descriptive details. Will be installing the Front End links tomorrow. I left 5/8" thread showing on all 4 bolts. Anybody have anything else? Thanks Mack. Very good instructions!!
02-23-2008, 08:47 AM
#30
What "version" of the bushings are you guys getting? I know that taz offers 3 different types.
All I know is that I have the ES bushings on the V1 links and still get a rattle from my rear end. It's funny because once I took off the metal plates that were touching the bar, the noise disappeared for a couple of days and then came back. Now it disappears at night (when it's really cold...about 30-40ish) and is still there in the day time (about 50-60ish)...kind of but funny at the same time!
All I know is that I have the ES bushings on the V1 links and still get a rattle from my rear end. It's funny because once I took off the metal plates that were touching the bar, the noise disappeared for a couple of days and then came back. Now it disappears at night (when it's really cold...about 30-40ish) and is still there in the day time (about 50-60ish)...kind of
but funny at the same time!
02-23-2008, 05:54 PM
#32
The Current ES bushings supplied with all V2 endlinks feature are specially impregnated with graphite and do not need lubrication. Only the RED ES series bushings bought from your local auto store need grease.
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