My driver front SS brake line was rubbing on my CV axle until it burst several weeks ago. I replaced it, but I cant seem to get any pressure on the left front, right rear brake lines. The pedal basically goes to the floor, although it stops the car fairly well. Any ideas? Did my master cylinder go out too since the LF/RR circuit went without fluid for a short distance?

 

Did you rebleed the brakes? I just had to re secure my fronts lines also. I started from the right rear,left rear,right front and left front. If your MS went out and a 350z will work I bought one and its just sitting here.

 

I dont know if a 350Z cylinder will work. Anyone?

 

www.my350z.com

 

Matt99se said " have to look at the math on the internal proportioning valve for the
350z. " but I have the rotors,calipers as SS lines in the rear and was going to do the front but never but did.
Just looked at your cardomain page and so do you so it might.

 

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just bustin' your bawls!

 

'nie ma sprawy'

 

If you bled your brakes all the way around and your brakes still work but go to the floor it could be your booster . The booster also keeps the pressure on the pedal. Most cars it 4 nuts that hold it to the mastercylinder and then inside the cars floor board wear the brake pedal is there is a cotter pin that holds the rod from the booster to the brake pedal. You don't have to remove the ms completely just unbolt it from the booster. Although our cars have less uder hood room not sure how easy the booster can slide out.

 

 

czeski-niebieski , may work as I have the same rears as you! Is that better !prjctMax!

 

not sure what the first part means...

After you respond, let's stay on topic...sorry deus!

 

Still need help guys. I bled all around and the LF/RR still has very little pressure when I bleed compared to RF/LR circuit. HUGE difference in pressure. Its as if that circuit is barely working.

 

Well if the booster helps control pressure and the MS controls bias wouldnt that screw up your circuit? If MS is cheap enough just change it out.

 

If you look at the fsm in a diagram I am looking at it shows the booster, master cylinder and a actuater for the hydraulic circuit but doesnt say much about it.

 

I dont think its the booster since that only works when car is on. Pedal goes to the floor when car is off or on.

 

No leaks anywhere???

 

I got my willwoods put on this saturday and when we were bleeding the calipers the guy made sure there is fluid in the reservoir at all times (well thats common sense). But he also said that if the fluid goes below then you have to bleed the master cylinder and then the calipers which he says its PITA. makes sense?

 

o jeszcze jeden!

 

ale fajnie, czasami mi sie wydaje ze polacy to jedyni rozsadni ludzie a reszta swiata to debilstwo.

Kamil

 

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║╚╣║║╚╗
╚═╩═╩═╝

 

Umm now Im lost as I have to translate everything,LOL. I would go with xoomer's idea. Check for leaks and rebleed one more time.

 

Awesome, did you take some pictures???

 

No leaks. Since I bled the brakes the pedal has gotten WORSE. Im really unhappy about this as I have a busy week and have a lot of driving to do.

 

Guess the question is how many times have you bleed the brakes so far? If fluid level got to low than that could cause your problem.If you bleed since then and still have the problem I would start by looking at all the lines and hoses.

 

No not yet, I was so friggin' pissed because I had whole saturday to get things done and got nothing done.

I got up in the morning and had to drop off the little one at my pops. Picked up my rubber (Mich Pilot Sport A/S) and my rims (19" NISMOS) and wen't to get them put on. By the time I went to my guy it was already 12 and he was still working on somebody's lexus and told me he'd be done in 15 minutes. Little do you know B-essing around, talking on the phone its freaking 2PM. He takes of the wheels and goes dude I gotta go cause I am meeting with my guys or somesh-it or other. He goes you should have told me that you need the whole brakes done cause I thought its only pads. I was like WTF . I started bit-ching how he's been just wasting my time and all, so he put somebody else on the job. After extensive bleeding we were finally done at 3:30 and it was too late to go and get my exhaust done. I went home "bitter/sweet". Anyhow, the exhaust will be done tomorrow and along with my brother we'll get some updated pics.

Peace

 

Oh, I had no problems but the mechanic who was working on the setup made sure that while we bleed there is always fluid in the reservoir. I saw him use a whole bottle by the time we were done.

 

I am wondering if the MC is in bypass mode?

 

Pedal still VERY soft and mushy. The brakes seem to stop the car ok once they engage. Clearly something is wrong, but what is it?

 

sorry deuski

 

IMO, still some air in the LF/RR circuit. Keep reservoir filled at all time.
Disconnect battery. Re-bleed right rear brake (long line, lots of oil), then Left front brake until air is out (pedal must be rock firm if SS). Then Left rear brake, Right front brake. Reconnect battery.

 

Why does disconnecting the battery make a difference?

 

Part of procedure for bleeding in Service manual.

Maybe air is trapped in the ABS pump and you are in 'limp mode'. Disconnecting battery may release a valve/solenoid and let air out.

 

Ill try it this weekend.

 

How didi you bleed the brakes? vacuum bleeder, gravity bleed, or have somebody pressing the pedal while you opened and closed bleeder srew,

If somebody is in your car and your are bleeding brakes if they are letting off the pedal and deide they needed to here the sterio and turned the key on the abs will go through a test and possibly get air in it. Never turn key on while bleeding...

did you pull the calipers for some reason? If so make sure they are on the corect sides. The bleeder should always be on top.

I don't think it would be the master. When you replace the hose did you reuse the copper washer or replace.

also, check and bleed prop valve and bleed it.

You cand use brake hose clamps on all hoses and see if pettal feels better. If brave channel locks work as well. If so remove one at a time and see what one has the most significant differce in pedal pressure. If your brake pedal is hard with all hoses clamped then you know it's past the master, booster, prop valve. It will definately be a caliper hose fitting or caliper problem. If prolem is there with all hoses clamped then look above at the other fitting and then start looking at master and stuff.

Good luck
Jason

 

Bad booster will usually make pedal hard and give little pressure to brakes.

 

Booster doesnt affect brakes with engine off, I dont believe. I didnt pull the calipers. My bleeders are on top, like they should be. I did reuse the copper ring. What I noticed is when I bled the LF/RR, that the fluid didnt come out with much force. But the RF/LR circuit squirted the fluid out very hard. Also, no key was turned on during bleeding.

 

I have done my breaks twice the most important thing is to keep the fluild toped off at all times!!!!!!!!!!!! makes shure the copper ring has no markes and is on correctly. Also make shure your using the proper fluid dot 3 or better... hope this helps.

 

The initial problem is that the brake line popped and the fluid from that circuit drained out completely. When I bled the brakes, the fluid was topped off all the time.

 

UPDATE: I have noticed that the brake pedal firms up to normal sometimes, but that is temporary. When its firm, it brakes GREAT, but them without notice, it gets really mushy again.

 

Dueski, you might have a problem with your ABS motor, some air might be trapped in between the valves.... maybe its time to call it a day, and have a shop diagnose it.

Its your breaks bro, ur life is riding on them .

Kamski