thecritik

iTrader: (2)

Greetings all,

I'm doing my suspension this weekend and I know a few of you have done your own suspensions as well. I've read all the posts about it and looked at the walkthroughs but if there are any last minute tips any of you have, it would be greatly appreciated.

KC2010

iTrader: (1)

CoolMax has pretty much said it all. He included an extra tidbit in this thread that I didn't think of. Check it.

http://forums.maxima.org/6th-generat...nt-videos.html

thecritik

iTrader: (2)

Ok ... well the front struts and springs went in without a hitch. Well a small hitch. The cheap **** spring compressors broke on the first use. The rods bent. Luckily the guy who helped me was an ASE certified mechanic and he just happened to have a forklift in his garage to compress the springs. Dangerous? Yes but it worked nevertheless. Thanks to my boy Mike Z. for the high powered compressor action.

I went with Tein Springs and Monroe Sensatrac struts since i've been told the GR2's are megastiff for my environment and we can no longer get the custom Konis.

Some things I'm noticing on first glance ...

The car definitely handles better .. DUH ...
The suspension rebounds better than it did when it was new.
I ripped around some corners last night and this morning and considering I have yet to do the rears, She was nice and planted. No drift around a 30degree curve at 60. Prior she was drifting big time ...
The front still takes bumps hard but controlled, unlike before when i'd hit a bump and the steering wheel would shake and i'd feel like my dash was falling apart.
Wet traction has improved 100%.

Overall, I feel like i've taken care of a problem that has plagued me from the start. The front of the car feels great now.

The next two stages involve the rear springs and the rear sway bar which I have possession of both.

Has anyone done rear springs in a driveway and if so could you give me a 1-10 on the difficulty meter. Also, the service manual says to replace the adjustment bolt when removing the springs. Is this really necessary?

Thanks in advance for any help ....

KC2010

iTrader: (1)

We just so happen to have done both the front end and rear end this weekend. The rear was simple. If you're not against taking off your rear wheel you do the following.

1. Jack rear of car off the ground.
2. Support car with jack stand on the frame somewhere.
3. Pull emergency brake. (do this so you can remove the lugs)
4. Remove back tires.
5. Place jack under rear control arm and jack it up under the spring seat to support the control arm.
6. Remove bolt that ties the knuckle and control arm together.
7. Slowly lower the jack. This will release the pressure on the spring. You might have to pull down a little bit on your control arm to release the spring from it's seat.
8. Place rubber spring seat on bottom of new spring.
9. Place spring back into position in the control arm. (make sure the seat sits in the grooves correctly.
10. Jack up control arm. Have someone guide the control arm back into place with the knuckle.
11. Bolt it back into place.
12. Put tire back on.
Repeat 5 thru 12 for other side since the car's *** will be in the air.

It took me and my best friend around 30 minutes to do the rear. Very simple. Do it, you'll be shock on how easy it is.

I wouldn't suggest removing the inner control arm bolt that ties to the subframe for one reason. It's an alignment bolt from the looks of it. I know some guys and gals on the org prefer to use the inner bolt but I didn't want to. Why? Because I have to drive 50 miles to the alignment shop and I tried to eliminate affecting the original alginment as much as possible to ensure a safe ride there. It's at the shop getting aligned now. So I'll feel better driving it after that.

NismoMax80

iTrader: (6)

Any extra tips on the shocks? or is it as simple as removing the wheels, 3 bolts each shock and installing new shocks?

KC2010

iTrader: (1)

I don't know. I did the springs only on the back. I'll be replacing the rear shocks soon. I know there's a few threads on the removal of the shocks. If I find one I'll send it your way.

04MAX_ILLIN

iTrader: (3)

Did my rear shocks and front struts myself this weekend. Rear shocks are 1 bolt on the bottom of the shock and 2 bolts on the top of the shock. Simple installation. The front struts were easy as well, as long as you have a spring compressor. Having only 1 issue right now with with entire suspension setup. When i turn the steering wheel left and right or vice versa there is a squeeking noise coming from the drivers side front strut. Im thinking it may be the way the spring is sitting on the rubber gasket that is between the spring itself and the strut. Anyone have any other idea what it could be. Also just a FYI for anyone interested in brakes. I also installed new Rotorpros with Hawk HPS pads and SS lines. The setup is Sickkk! Awesome braking and looks great too.

NismoMax80

iTrader: (6)

i've seen most of them before. i was just double checking before i got started. the service manual shows all these little parts. 5 pieces come with each shock but the instructions look like a different setup.

thecritik

iTrader: (2)

It's funny what you say about the squeaking. I had a squeaky noise in my car and after multiple trips to the dealer for the issue, they removed that rubber gasket. I knew this because as we dismantled the old struts and springs yesterday, the side with the squeak had no such gasket. Just another reason to stay away from the dealership service department....

VigilanteMax

iTrader: (4)

Did you change your strut mounts? If not then that is the answer.

KC2010

iTrader: (1)

I did my struts this weekend. Replaced everything but one strut bracket (I destroyed one trying to get a stripped strut nut off). Mounts, bearings, springs and struts. No squeaking on turning.

NismoMax80

iTrader: (6)

ok just did my shocks. all those pieces are for the top. just take note how you take it apart to install the new pieces. they're thicker and not the exact same shapes.

was weird that my driver side wasn't lined up so the bottom bolt was a PITA to remove and reinstall. the passenger side was perfectly aligned and slid right in and out.

KC2010

iTrader: (1)

Off to the Alignment shop!

04MAX_ILLIN

iTrader: (3)

Well, i purchased the KYB mounts but they didnt have any spacer like the OEM mounts do if you look at the bottom of them. When i was done and drove off, i had a bad clunking from both sides. Went back, took the struts out again and put the OEM mounts back in. No clunking now but have a slight squeak on turns. Whats even weirder is that i had no such squeak with the same mounts but with OEM struts ?????

NismoMax80

iTrader: (6)

well that's what i thought right away. but our rear doesn't really have anything that gets aligned. with all the play in the lower bushing, it wouldn't even make a difference. unless i'm totally wrong?

BadBlackMaxSL

iTrader: (1)

I had the same problem, to get the bolt back in I had to jack up and compress the spring to get the holes to line up. When I did mine- I did the driver's first and it was a PITA and it took me about 30 minutes to figure out and complete. Then I did the passenger side and it took only 10 minutes to do so I thought I did something wrong with the drivers side so I took the drivers side apart to make sure I did it right and had the spring rubbers seated correctly, etc and it was all done correctly. It left me

I am going to get an alignment as soon as I get my endlinks from TAZ. Waiting and driving with these crappy OEM endlinks knocking around sucks.

KC2010

iTrader: (1)

The tow can be adjusted. Or atleast my alignment guy was able to change it some.

VigilanteMax

iTrader: (4)

Toe, camber, and thrust angle can be adjusted in rear.

thecritik

iTrader: (2)

Well the rear springs are in and the car feels 50% better than it did yesterday. Was as easy as KC2010 said. Took us 45 minutes just because we were being really cautious. I did notice however that after I did the rear the alignment was WAAAYYY off. Way more than after just the front.

Either way, the car feels great and around turns she's very flat ... no roll at all.

I do have a squeaky clicky noise on the drivers side though. I think it's that rubber thing my guy didn't put back.

On the diagram in the service manual I see the rubber seat. Does anyone happen to know the part number for it?

NismoMax80

iTrader: (6)

exactly what i did. but i had "help" with the 1st one while i searched for tools. so there were old and new bushings on the driver side, the top washer/plate was upside down, and i installed the boot pushing it too far down.

so i reinstalled (wheel too) a second time to remedy those things.


well with my 5 minute commute last night, the rear bounces a lot less. I still get a very slight quick rub on bumps while turning fast. i can't wait for tokico to make us illuminas.

Harvey

I just replaced the struts, shocks and shock mounts on the wife's max this past weekend. KYB GR-2 all around. One of the strut mounts was missing the nylon bearing so I ordered another mount overnight. The original online seller said it would cost them $30 to overnight the missing bearing so he sent it USPS. I still haven't seen it and it has been 4 business days.

Well, the rear shocks were easy. Take off wheel. remove lower bolt and then the top two nuts. Easy work with an electric impact wrench. I had to jack the arm to line up the lower bolt. The fronts are explained in the above DIY. Great write up!!!

Results: Nice quiet ride (no more rattling) in the front. Firm ride (kind of a solid feel) Now for the bad news. She says it was too quiet because she hears some thumping or rattling in the back. I took out all the stuff from trunk and re-aligned the trunk panels (they were mis-aligned). I know tighten everything up because I triple checked. Maybe the alignment shop did something? I'll find tomorrow if she still hears it. I am hoping it was the panels in the trunk. The noise is not consistent with every bump in road. It is occasional.

KC2010

iTrader: (1)

FYI, remember to bolt your tires back on in a star pattern centering the wheel to the hub. Then torque your wheels to 90 lbs in a star pattern to ensure you don't take a chance of damaging your brake system.

This applies to most people, especially hub centric wheels.

Harvey

I did star pattern centering the wheel to the hub. I did tighten it hand tight vs 90lbs. Previously, the Goodyear dealer over tighten the lugs. It difficult to loosen using an impact wrench.

Iam going to take apart the rear shock this weekend. Maybe the dome cap fell off or one of the nuts or bolts are loose.

thecritik

iTrader: (2)

Rear sway bar and front lower spring seats in(rubber rings between spring and strut). One was missing from a previous nissan service visit (GO STEALERSHIP MECHANICS) so i replaced them both for 8 bux.

I still need to get an alignment and I just ordered front endlinks. Does anyone know if it's worth replacing the rear endlinks? I'm sure it is but with the new sway bar, will the OEM's have any trouble. Also, what exactly different should I feel with the rear sway bar? I have a feeling that because I did the rear springs prior to the sway bar i'm missing some of the effects.

Lastly, should I wait till I replace the front endlinks to get an alignment. I'm thinking it shouldn't have any effect.

Overall, so far so good. The car is a lot smoother and the ride is way more controlled. I wasn't looking for a super sport ride, I was more trying to make it a little more comfortable but at the same time increase cornering ability and make the ride flatter, decreasing roll. I think I have accomplished that with the Sensa-Tracs and the Tein springs. The front end is still a little hard but I think that is more a characteristic of the car than the suspension, but it feels way better.

VigilanteMax

iTrader: (4)

The rear endlinks do compliment the RSB and yes, everytime you mess with your suspension, ie your front endlinks, you should get an alignment. I have a 3 yr deal to get as many as I want so its nice not to have to worry about the alignments. I did not like the V1 endlinks but the V2 I highly recommend from racingline (Taz)

kamski

iTrader: (9)

the front endlinks will compliment the rear setup very niceley. just make sure u install them correctly.

kamski

iTrader: (9)

WRONG! Endlinks do not in any, I repeat ANY way affect the geometry of the suspension. It's a re-active part that responds differently to the actions placed on it then the oem part.

VigilanteMax

iTrader: (4)

Call me crazy but the endlinks are connected to the strut housing to the front swaybar. This is different than the 5th gen. It moves with the suspension and turns with the strut, so please EXPLAIN! as you so eloquently described it. im fine with you not getting an alignment...I WILL!

thecritik

iTrader: (2)

Thanks for that clarification Kam ... I was sure but not 100%.

I placed the order for the front endlinks and i'm going to do a little more research on the rears before I jump on that. I'll probably be going in for an alignment this week so she should be back to normal soon.

I'm getting a low pitched clicking noise from the left side. Not from the right though. Has anyone else experienced this? it's obviously related to steering because it only happens when I turn the wheel.

KC2010

iTrader: (1)

CV Boot maybe.

JACMAXI

for the strut noise, you need to get this part, is called "Seat Rubber Front Spring" for $12 Part# 54034-ZK00A get left and right, make sure the new ones don't a have a sheet of metal in between, according to the org here that metal sheet makes the noise when it wears out.

kamski

iTrader: (9)

.................toe, camber and caster are not changed by the v2 endlink. Only thing that changes is the time it takes for the endlink to apply pressure to the sway bar. U would need an alignment only if u played around with the big bolts that holds the spindle in place or the strut plate bolts were removed and the strut Moved in it's perch.

Swaybar and endlink mode are the only suspension mods that don't require alignment. But hey if it's free why not.

VigilanteMax

iTrader: (4)

I see your point. Everytime I remove my endlinks though, it unfortunately doesnt pop right out of the strut, so I have to turn the strut and manuever it to get it to release. All that jarring makes me feel better to get an alignment. My toe is always off anyways.

kamski

iTrader: (9)

Taz you want to chime in?

BadBlackMaxSL

iTrader: (1)

After installing the Racing Line front endlinks I was getting a clicking noise from both sides when the endlinks had lateral stress on them. Today I took the wheels off and tightened down the upper and lower mounting bolts. I guess they took some time to really "seat" themselves. I was still getting that clicking noise if I pushed and pulled on the lower end of the endlink. It was coming from the top of the endlink. To solve this I tightened the black shaft of the endlink to the right and cinched it to the silver upper 3/4 inch bolt. Prior to me doing this I was able to, with my bare hand, spin or turn the endlink along its axis very easily. Now that that it is tightened I can not turn the endlink with my hand. Now the amount of effort to turn the steering wheel is a little more, which isn't a big deal, and the whole steering has better feel to it. Taz and Kam, does this sound right?

athlon omega

iTrader: (4)

I think I'm having the same issue but the noise is on my front passenger side. Could you elaborate on this please? "To solve this I tightened the black shaft of the endlink to the right and cinched it to the silver upper 3/4 inch bolt." You're saying you made sure that black part was all the way tightened to the silver bolt that connects to the strut? I also have some small play in the ball n socket joint of the endlink that connects to the sway bar. I didn't pay attention when I got them. Is this normal? I'm thinking it is since the driver side has some play in it to but doesn't make noise.

BadBlackMaxSL

iTrader: (1)

Ok- my noise returned but after contacting Taz at RacingLine I think I have it solved. I think the silver metal bolt at the top may be bumping into the endlink attachment point to the strut housing. So what I did was loosen the lower bolt on the endlink so I could lengthen the endlink. I lengthened it enough so that the top bolt was now below the attachment point. I was able to count 5 grooves on the top knuckle of the endlink. I lenghtened both sides to the same length, which sounds dumb to remind you, but I almost forgot to do it. Then I tightened the bolts to the black shaft of the endlink as best I could. I did this over a week ago and I have not had any more noise issues and I have enjoyed the ride even more. The longer endlinks make the responsiveness of the steering to feel much better, more connected to the road. I was ready to trade this beast in on anything else to get rid of the front end problems but Taz's endlinks have saved me.

I have RacingLine's Strut Tower Brace and Endlinks, Monroes Struts, Progress Springs and the new Nissan spring rubber isolator. The ride is smooth but firm and a bit harsher over bumps but the handling and looks of being dropped are worth it so far.

athlon omega

iTrader: (4)

Thanks a bunch. I believe this will solve my problem. Roughly how many grooves dd you have between the lower bolt on the black shaft and the knuckle that attaches to the sway bar? Did you leave it the original height that it came in? As for the Nissan spring rubber isolator, I assume one has to decompress the springs to get them installed? Mine isn't making any noise now, but I figure I will probably get it replaced sometime in the future where I get my lifetime alignment. Sorry for all the questions, but you advice has already put me at ease about the issue I'm having with them.

athlon omega

iTrader: (4)

Actually it's not the endlinks making the noise. My bushings on the sway bar are breaking apart. A piece of the passenger's side broke off when I was tugging on the sway bar. Guess I'll have to upgrade to energy suspensions bushings.