I need my fellow orger's opinions on what else I may need to do to solve this issue. I'm looking at my alignment final report and realizing that my install of the new struts, springs, and strut mounts weren't the final solution to my suspension problem.

The way this report reads it looks as if I hit a pot hole and damaged something else, not just my struts. I've had my strut tower measured and it's not out or in, it's right where it needs to be. Should I get my spindle, knuckle, wheel bearing, tie rod ends looked at? If so, help me prioritize the list. I'd like to try to find the cheapest route to alignment bliss.

BTW, my car has never been wrecked either. Any input will be greatly appreciated. I'm getting frustrated trying to track this down. I'm spending all my mod money on repairs. Do you know what that does to a mod junkie? GOOD GOD I'm jonesing for some mods!

 

I guess we don't have anyone with this type of knowledge. Understood. Thanks for viewing the thread though!

 

im thinkin it could be a bent control arm.

 

I was hoping it wasn't going to be this but it seems this is the direction I should go. I've also acquired a shimmy recently (probably after hitting a pothole). I'm wondering if the ball joint on the control arm is also shot but doesn't show up when loading the control arm with a crow bar. I think all my problems (shimmy and alignment) could rest in this one thing possibly.

My thinking is this....

When I first had my performance brakes installed I had a shimmy. The new brake pads still "kiss" the rotor once per rev. Based on my searches I might have Rotor Thickness Variation (RTV). This can make a rotor out of balance but still not warped causing a shimmy on hard acceleration.

The other thought I had is "if I did hit a pothole" I probably not only have bent the strut and control arm, but also may have damaged my CV axle in the process. This could explain the alignment issue and the shimmy that I have. When I accelerate hard it's an aggresive shimmy, when I just putt along it's very faint and when I slow down without applying the brakes it's prominent. When I apply the brakes it's smooth as butta.

It's not my rims/tires. Had those checked 8 times. I just don't know anymore. I guess I need to bite the bullet and go to Nissan and have them diagnose it.

 

I've read a few thread about unbalanced rotors even though they're not warped. Could debri on a hub behind a newly intalled rotor cause a highway speed vibration/shimmy? How about rotors that are a little bigger at the hub hole? I noticed when we installed the rotors it wasn't snug and had maybe .5 mm play when flush with the hub. Could this cause a intermittent vibration? If so, I still have the OE rotors. I could go get them "turned" and reinstall them to eliminate the rotors as a possible cause for my problem.

Could a ball joint look fine upon alignment inspection BUT can actually need replacing?

Remember, I don't have the notorious shimmy everyone discusses on the org. This is self inflicted. Caused by a bad installation of something.

 

i had a brand new rotor warped at the hub, not the brake surface. Take off your rotor and lay it on a flat table. If it doesnt sit flush then rotor at the hub faulty. It is very difficult to damage a hub on your car, but possible.

 

Have your mechanic check the control arm , the king pin and then the spindle/knuckle. That should resolve most issues.

 

Sounds like I need to make my way to the service dept at my local nissan dealership. Thank you for the feedback, Winterfaust!

 

Shimmy is OFFICIALLY GONE! Yep, everytime I thought I had it taken care of and I was completely wrong. Story:

So, we decided to go back as far as when we installed the EBC rotors to try to figure out what is causing the shimmy. Remember, I don't have the notorious 04 type shimmy. Well, we went and had the OE rotors turned and bought some OE pads to replace the EBC setup to see if that was the cause. And yes, the rotors were causing the problem. We think one or both of the EBC rotors are damaged, i.e. rotor thickness variation and run out or a bent hub. Not sure what is wrong with the rotors. One thing we noticed is the thickness of the EBC rotors is much more than an oe rotor. When you installed the EBC rotors, place the pads in place and put the caliper back on there was no room for the pad to get off the rotor. This explains why I heard the pads rub the rotor on off brake driving. Does anyone know how thick the rotopros are? When I get the EBC rotors measured I'll post the thickness. At the end of the day I don't recommend EBC rotors for our cars. Now I need to get my left control arm replaced. Time to save some money.

Thanks for the help everyone!

 

Just to add something to the brake rotor issue, I bought Brembo drilled rotors and they were noisy during hard braking. Once machined, they were fine, best brakes I've ever had. I would recommend having all new rotors checked and machined as needed, despite being fresh out of the box. I would also recommend checking lug nut torque anytime a mechanic has been near your wheels. I have often found even the best mechanics over torque lug nuts which can warp rotors and cause shimmy.

 

Confused. EBC pads are damaged? Pads take time to wear for them to not rub especially when new. Rotors can cause your shimmy if they are "duds" at the hub. I just put Monroe ceramic pads on my 300zx calis and they are awesome so far.

They dont make brembo drilled an slotted for 6th gen maxys if thats what you are referring to.
on the lug nut torquing.

 

They might be at the duds at the hub. What pisses me off is that I dropped the cash on them, not using them, and could have bought my Unorthodox UDP instead. I'll just buy a BBK next summer and run OE for now. I want to focus on finishing up my bolt ons and go from there.

The 45 miles drive into work was awesome! Because of the drag from the EBC rotors I wasn't getting very good power. Now, wow! Hell, my MPG is even better!

 

VigalanteMax, I have a 4th gen with slotted discs....

 

Better late than never........