I was planning on going brembo blanks and Hawk Performance Ceramic on the four coners but it seems like Brembo is not makeiing the fronts. My options now are:

Fronts rotors Kiriu (OEM manufacturer)
Rear rotors Kiriu or Brembo
Front and rear pads Hawk Performance Ceramic

or

Front and rear rotors - Raybestos Advanced Technology Brake Rotor
Front and rear pads - Raybestos Quiet Stop Brake Pads

I have 43,000 on the orignal brakes with some life left so I guess you can say I am a mellow driver. So looking to get at least OEM performance, quiet, minimal dust with a long life brake setup...

Any opinions?

 

RTP zinc plated rotors with Hawk HPS pads for about 2 years now and they are still going strong. They have seen many triple digits quick stops and still maintain great bite with minimal fade...that's because I drive like a civil person now.

May as well get some stainless steel brake lines too.

 

I see your in Chicago, how are the rotors holding up with all the salt? Rusted?

 

Chicago here as well.. RTP slotted... this will be my second winter with them. Holding up great.

 

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RTP w/ EBC red stuff pads ... aruond a year!!!

 

+1 on the EBC red

 

Rotorpro cross/slotted painted black, Hawk HPS and SS lines all around. Great deal price wise, great performance for your money, cant go wrong. DO IT!! (brake dust is my only complain, oh and a little brake noise when slowing from a high speed )

 

Thanks guys!
Went with front and rear RTP blanks with Hawk Ceramic Brake Pads from Jason's group deal.

 

Good to hear... Will you be installing them yourself?

/subscribed for more pics!

 

After reading through all the threads I am still unaware of the best OEM brake pads to purchase. Any feed back on Where to purchase OEM pads besides the dealer.

 

don't buy OEM pads. they suck and dust like mad as well as leave material on the rotors which can cause them to 'warp'. get some decent ceramics and call it a day. just find some online.

also i wouldn't buy SS lines they are a rip off, imo, and just for show(if that). you only need them if you autoX or drive through fields.
http://www.stoptech.com/tech_info/wp...teel_Q&A.shtml

 

Do you autox or drive thru fields cuz you have SS lines on your max. Read that attached link and it basically kills your outlook on the lines being onlr "for show" Didnt understand why youd tell someone not to get them and then post that information. Unless you have them for the "show" aspect. Personally i have them on my 6th gen and they have been nothing but superior to the OEM setup. I just cant say for sure what lines alone will do bc i change my lines when i did all new rotors and pads. Rotorpro cross/slotted, Hawk HPS and SS lines FTW!

 

Sorry, but that is simply untrue. You can upgrade your brakes nicely with better quality pads, SS lines, higher temp fluid, and good rotors. And, you dont have to be an autocrosser or a "field" driver (whatever that is) in order to significantly benefit from these upgrades. SS lines provide a firmer feel to the brakes by resisting flexing or bulging, thus providing more pressure to the pistons which press against the pads which squeeze the rotor. The benefits are very apparent if you drive in mountain areas or carry heavy loads.

 

for the money they arn't worth it for 99% of maxima drivers. that is my point. also from a bang for your buck sense they arn't worth it either. the stock lines are fine 99% of the time, unless you autoXs or drive through fields...like i said above. if that wasn't true nissan would use SS braided lines stock. Every car i'v ever owned has rubber lines and were just fine. i would guess that 90% or higher of all vehicles sold in the US for the general public come with rubber lines. Also the rubber lines are rather think and double layered least my 5th gens are. more then enough for even spirited driving on a highway/back roads. look at the lines of trucks for instance. all i'v seen are always rubber..but they carry heavier loads and go in more extreme situations then a max ever will...

and yes i do have them, and regret buying them. the money could be better spent elsewhere.

as for the not understanding the field's comment...lolz

as for the mountain driving the fluid's boiling temp is more important then the rubber line fwiw. the chance of it bulging or breaking is VERY slim. again for 99% of the people 99% of the time it's wasted money.


deus do you carry heavy loads?

 

First of all, its very hard to overspend on a safety item like brakes except if you get really silly about it. SS lines are not very expensive anyway. If you perform all the brake mods I listed above I believe your not even spending $400 and thats for upgraded pads that resist fading, hi temp brake fluid that further resists brake fade through higher boiling point, warp-free rotors, preferably slotted for more fade-free braking under load, and SS lines which wont crack like stock rubber will do. I have had brake lines crack before. SS lines provide a more solid pedal too.
When Im carrying 4 people in my car plus me, that is quite a load, especially if the trunk is loaded. I also live near very steep mountains (11,000 feet plus). I also drive in high speed time trials and autocrosses. Even without the mountains and the racing, I still think ss lines are worth it. People shell out $300 for intakes, so whats $100 for SS lines?
Nissan doesnt put SS lines on because rubber lines are "acceptable" and its a cost factor, much like the $hit tires, battery, brake pads and other things they put on.

 

fair enough.

i still argue most people don't need them and stock will work fine for 'most' people.

putting the air intakes into the figure makes me want to compare their bang for the buck...but i'll leave that out of here

 

Thanks for the Advice but I have seen several ceramic brake pads online to order. What brand Ceramic brake pads are preferred by 6th generation owners?

 

I have the Axxis/PBR Ultimates offered in the group deals section. Not a problem!

It really depends on your driving habits... if you are just doing local driving etc, then Ultimates/Hawk HPS are overkill IMO.