I'm sure this has been talked about before but I wanted to try and find out definitive information on performance adds for our Maximas. If anybody has any tech information such as HP and Torque gains please list them here... because some of these "performance" adds are quite expensive and may not add as much as desired. Mainly I am interested real performance instead of "hype."


- Please List HP Gains, Torque Gains, Price and Proof if available and I will update accordingly -


Nismo Cold Air Intake System -
Injen Cold Air Intake System - 11 HP Max Gain Proven By Injen Dyno Chart $270
Fujita Cold Air Intake System -
R2C Short Ram Intake System - 12 HP 9 Ft. LB Max Gain Claimed

Greddy SP2 Catback Exhaust System - 4-8 Horsepower Proven From Technician At Greddy $878
Greddy SE Catback Exhaust System - 4-8 Horsepower Proven From Technician At Greddy $1100
Nismo Catback Exhaust System -
Cattman Performance Catback Exhaust System - $920
Cattman Headers -

Technosquare ECU Flash -

Jet Performance MAF Sensor - 3 HP Max Gain Proven By Jet Performance Dyno Chart $179.95

Racingline Y-Pipe - 13 HP 13 Ft. LB Max Gain Proven By Racingline Dyno Chart $269.99
Cattman Performance Y-Pipe -

Stillen Underdrive Pulley - 10 HP Max Gain Claimed $189
Unorthodox Underdrive Pulley - 8-12 HP Max Gain Claimed $225
Unorthodox Standard Lightweight Pulley - 6-10 HP Max Gain Claimed $245

NWP Phenolic Intake Manifold Spacer Kit - 10 HP 12 FT LB Max Gain Proven By NWP Dyno Chart $225
NWP VIAS Block Off Plate -9 HP 8 Ft. LB Max Gain Proven By Dyno Chart $40

 

Interesting thread. Subscribed

 

Performance at the crank is only 50% of the battle. Suspension is just as important and from a price point is much more rewarding. I also noticed that the "proof" is by the company themselves....interesting as I have most of these and the gains just are not there. The real gains come with these bolt ons and TUNING as the ECU over rides all of these. Just throwing that out there.

 

Completely understandable Vigilante, as suspension, tires, sway bars and things of that nature improve launch and ability (Good Point). However, all things like this aside, and strictly from an engine performance angle, how do these items actually perform and how much horsepower, and torque, can you gain for each dollar spent?

Say that you purchase X amount of upgrades for $500 and gain 50 horsepower V.S. Purchasing an alternate X amount of upgrades for $2,000 and gain 20 horsepower. This is my direction...

ALSO, certain modifications work in conjunction with other mods to improve power "together." I will take these into account as well.

 

$40 NWP VIAS plate + 15 minutes = 9HP/8TQ

http://www.nissanclub.com/forums/eng...-vs-stock.html

 

problem is that with the "performance" mods, the intelligent computers of our cars are designed to adjust any changes back to oem settings... unless you also do the flash. (according to our modders).

 

I could be wrong, but I cant say I agree with our ECU relearning stock settings. I have Fujita, Vias, Cattman Y-pipe, cattback for some time now and NO WAY am I running back near stock settings. I will line up with a stock maxima ANY DAY. I heard the ecu is smart and will adjust to your mods. I know a tune would help me tho...

 

R2c: 12whp and 9tq

Not sure of the cost yet. lol

 

um no. thats what classified section is for.

next offense is a ban.

 

guarantee you no aftermarket intake will increase power.

 

Dyno charts prove otherwise. Companies invest so much time and money in the development of an aftermarket intake because customers, like us, require them because of the added power. Less restriction of air into the engine = more power. I have to disagree. I will, however, say this: The claimed gains are more than likely B/S as I don't feel they add quite as much power as claimed, but a gain is a gain nonetheless.

 

also tell me how much colder of an air can you get from directly in front of the car? is 1 foot lower really colder? and how can the open filter breathe more air (which is a lot warmer in the engine bay) than the incredibly high pressured air that enters between the hood and grille?

we have one hell of an intelligent design for an intake. the coldest possible air at the highest pressure enters our car.

 

Doubtful. Think of it this way: Try sucking in air through a straw that has multiple curves in it and is pinched off on the end to make it very oval shaped. Now try sucking in air through a straight straw that is not bent or pinched. Which would be easier for you? I don't care who is blowing on the other end, it will be easier through a straighter more open design. An engine is no different. It is basically a vacuum pump. Make it easier for the engine to breathe and there will be less restriction. Is the air truly much colder? Anyone have any facts on this? The open filter sits completely outside of the engine bay where colder outside temp. air is rushing past it so, possibly?

 

where is the air inside the engine bay pushing from exactly? look into aerodynamics. that front end is creating a lot of pressure. air travels the least resistance, even if once in the oem opening it has to bend around. there is no one sucking air, it is forced in from the intense pressure.

an open filter in the bay has no pressure on it. it is sucking for air alone. ask anyone with an aftermarket one. it gets hot. you really think the heat isn't going past the battery?

and the cold air intake down by the battery, where is it getting air? it's pretty closed off down there. the front grilles are sectioned off to get the air directly into the radiator. plus you run the risk of water down there. mech at the dealer was rebuilding an engine that got hydrolocked from a CAI. no warranty.

dyno?

the car isn't traveling through the air pushing it out of the way forcing it into the oem opening. yeah it has to suck for air like a straw. to me the dyno has no say on performance of intakes.

if you like the look and the sound they make go for it. but please don't fall for the hp gain marketing.