What would you do?
#1
What would you do?
Really need some help don’t know what to do? I have a 2007 maxima with 80k on it. I got my timing chain replaced under warranty. About 4 months ago my car starting shaking at idle it only does it when reaches normal temperature. The shake is not too bad but enough to annoy the heck out of me. The car ran like **** and gas millage was 14 mpg ouch!
So far I have gotten my mounts checked and no issues. I have searched every single forum that I could find and there is not anyone that has the same problem. From what I searched everyone says spark plugs coil pack or fuel dampeners. So yesterday I changed the spark plugs and moved the coils around to see if I get a light. I also changed the fuel dampeners there was a tbs on the dampeners so I got new parts and changed them out. The job only took me 2 hours and it was fairly easy. While I had the manifold off I looked at the valves and they look pretty clean. After I put everything back the car is running great but the shake is still there or rough idle. I started doing some more research and decided to clean the Maf sensor which did not help. While I had the manifold off, I cleaned the throttle body and the manifold. After all that the rough idle or the shake is still there.
Doing all this got my millage to 23 and the car runs great but it still shakes. If I have anything change in the cup holder and I stop at the light I can hear it and my passenger seat vibrates also. I am very confused and lost as to what to do. I keep checking the computer and there is no light nor any codes.
What should I do? I was thinking about going to the stealership as a last resort but since there are no lights I am pretty sure they will say everything is ok. I have already spent $200 for the tune-up in parts and the stealership will charge me $100 for nothing. I do have a question could it be my coils and if it is the coil shouldn’t my engine light be on.
So far I have gotten my mounts checked and no issues. I have searched every single forum that I could find and there is not anyone that has the same problem. From what I searched everyone says spark plugs coil pack or fuel dampeners. So yesterday I changed the spark plugs and moved the coils around to see if I get a light. I also changed the fuel dampeners there was a tbs on the dampeners so I got new parts and changed them out. The job only took me 2 hours and it was fairly easy. While I had the manifold off I looked at the valves and they look pretty clean. After I put everything back the car is running great but the shake is still there or rough idle. I started doing some more research and decided to clean the Maf sensor which did not help. While I had the manifold off, I cleaned the throttle body and the manifold. After all that the rough idle or the shake is still there.
Doing all this got my millage to 23 and the car runs great but it still shakes. If I have anything change in the cup holder and I stop at the light I can hear it and my passenger seat vibrates also. I am very confused and lost as to what to do. I keep checking the computer and there is no light nor any codes.
What should I do? I was thinking about going to the stealership as a last resort but since there are no lights I am pretty sure they will say everything is ok. I have already spent $200 for the tune-up in parts and the stealership will charge me $100 for nothing. I do have a question could it be my coils and if it is the coil shouldn’t my engine light be on.
#2
For what i heard, people say its normal engine use. My Maxi is at 65k and Im barley feeling the little shake at idle. How did you change the spark plugs on the back of the engine? did you have to take the intake manifold out?
#3
Yes it is time consuming but not too hard. look under dyi there is a detailed wreitup with pictures.
#4
Oh and to answer your question, i dont think it would be your coils because like i said i have the same little shaking at idle and im getting 28.6 mpg in city at cuising speed of 45mph. But cant say you aint got a problem.
#5
wow man 28 mpg I have never gottten that.
#6
yea and roughly 34mpg on highway, this is my first maxima and very happy to have it! All i did was just put a 3in filter and ran a pipe from filter to the bottom front of the car where it currently sucks huge amounts of air. Very helpful if you want more mpg and HP
#8
I know it's not near the level of intensity that you've been chasing this problem, but to fix my shake, a drop in K&N filter cured the wobblies...OEM standard filter, even new and the car shakes. Noted at 19k, now at 42k miles.
In fact, when the K&N was dirty, about 12000 miles later, shake was back. Cleaned the filter, reoiled, no shake.
Also, what about the PCV valve, have you replaced that?
In fact, when the K&N was dirty, about 12000 miles later, shake was back. Cleaned the filter, reoiled, no shake.
Also, what about the PCV valve, have you replaced that?
#9
Dude, my car shakes as well, though I doubt you have an engine issue....what are your RPMs like? Are they jumping up and down as well?
I am more inclined to think that it is how the engine is connected to the rest of the car. Any little bit of play between connection points on the car is going to add to the vibration. Loose engine/strut/shock mounts or anything else in the suspension could accentuate the vibration. At the end of the day, you gotta find the weak link in the chain, bro.
To rule out the engine, maybe give this a try. Go start your car, get a class of water and put in on the engine, and have a friend put it in D as well as P. Look and see if the water is sloshing around. It if isn't, then it is not your engine, it is just how it is connected to the rest of the car. That is, if the engine is not bouncing around in the engine-bay, then the rest of your car is absorbing the engine vibration and you, subsequently, are feeling it and seeing it. If you own the SE, then this may be a little more pronounced due to the car having a slightly stiffer suspension. If you are running low-profile rims/tires, then this would be even more pronounced.
I am more inclined to think that it is how the engine is connected to the rest of the car. Any little bit of play between connection points on the car is going to add to the vibration. Loose engine/strut/shock mounts or anything else in the suspension could accentuate the vibration. At the end of the day, you gotta find the weak link in the chain, bro.
To rule out the engine, maybe give this a try. Go start your car, get a class of water and put in on the engine, and have a friend put it in D as well as P. Look and see if the water is sloshing around. It if isn't, then it is not your engine, it is just how it is connected to the rest of the car. That is, if the engine is not bouncing around in the engine-bay, then the rest of your car is absorbing the engine vibration and you, subsequently, are feeling it and seeing it. If you own the SE, then this may be a little more pronounced due to the car having a slightly stiffer suspension. If you are running low-profile rims/tires, then this would be even more pronounced.
#15
Just got back from the stealership and they told me my injectors are leaking. Also since the plugs are already changed they will check the coils to see if they are bad. $2000 I told them heck no. Has anyone felt with leaky injectors before
#16
Same with your 34 highway claim...I call BS>
#17
wow thats the same reaction i first got from my buddies but proved them wrong after.... I have no reason to bs this, its the undeniable truth. I did the reseting of the mpg check and went from 67mpg to 25 - 28.6 mpg. so no BS here
#18
How many miles did you travel, and was there any stopping or speed changes...
#19
I get about 24-25 combined. I can get 28 on the freeway.
As far as your shake, have you checked all the vacuum lines? Sounds like it could be a slight leak. Make sure everything is connected, no splits, no pinches etc etc.
As far as your shake, have you checked all the vacuum lines? Sounds like it could be a slight leak. Make sure everything is connected, no splits, no pinches etc etc.
#20
When I did the spark plug change i did look at all the lines. I also asked the dealer about that they said if it was a vacuum leak there would be a light on. The only thing I have read that will not throw a code and will still make the engine shake are coils.
#22
so I was bored yesterday and decide to do some diagnostic. I started the car up and unplugged the coil one by one I could reach 4 of them I couldn't reach 1 and 3. I got codes for all the rest of them since I unplugged them one by one but my engine light didn't come on. The only reason I did that is to find out if one of the coils is not working the engine will still run fine if I unplugged the coil that bad. I know its not my injectors like the stealer ship said. My car starts up fine I don't smell gas the car is not running very rich. If all 6 of my injectors were leaking It would flood the engine and It would be very hard start. WHAT DO I DO NOW I AM LOST.
#23
#24
First I want to thank everyone for their input. I am still trying to figure this mess out no luck yet. I did put a cheap ebay cai on the car last weekend and there is some change. Now the car doesnt have rough idle all the time but it comes and goes but when it comes it shakes very bad for a second and then smooth. I also seafoamed the car too. Any thoughts to why it would cahnge.
#25
he is not blowing smoke. If i am careful i can get those numbers easily. I have a cai and and open exhaust via an electric cutout. With my cut out open a long straight level freeway with no stops i have consistently gotten and remained at 34-36 mpg @ 65mph. i know the fuel meter is working because i made it from Sacramento to San Diego in LESS then a full tank. i was hovering right under the full mark when i started. so there is NO b.s. here. if you know how to carry your momentum and anticipate "slow spots" on the freeway by easing off and easing back on before the spot. slightly accelerating in the slopes and coasting back up to match your speed when it turns level. You can hit 36 easily, even go higher. I've seen 38 for a few miles at 55 mph. also seen 38-39 by sneaking into a slip stream and drafting a semi doing 60 mph.
city is a different story. I have hit 28 in the city but i am driving like i own a prius to see 28 and i normally don't sacrifice the reason i bought the max to save a few bucks per tank. i am usually around 22mpg city, some times 14mpg my worst... 11mpg .
so im backing this guy, his figures are doable with some mods on intake and exhaust and some driving know-how
Last edited by twentyeggs; 04-01-2011 at 09:43 AM.