LED Conversion Write-up Doors/Domes/Map/Licence/Trunk [Pic Heavy]
04-08-2011, 06:55 PM
#1
LED Conversion Write-up Doors/Domes/Map/Licence/Trunk [Pic Heavy]
Got a chance to finally convert my buddy's 6th gen and the results were amazing! I was surprised at how many more bulbs there are on a 6th gen compared to the 5th gen.
The Results:
The Results:
Last edited by Tyutyunnik; 10-04-2012 at 06:03 PM.
04-08-2011, 06:56 PM
#2
The Write Up:
Stock front map lights. The Cover is a little tricky, you have the pry the bottom corners out first (near the switches) and then it slides out.
Cover comes off, two festoon type bulbs.
Replaced with a 9 LED board. Comparison to stock.
Both lights replaced.
Cover goes back on.
Moving onto the rear stock map lights. You can either pop the whole module out or just the cover, I did just the cover because its easier to test the LEDs when you put them in this way.
Cover comes off, another two festoon type bulbs on the inside.
I took off the black metal piece and threw it out, you don't really need it there since the LEDs cover the whole thing anyways.
Replaced one with an LED board, comparison to stock.
Both lights replaced.
Cover goes back on.
Stock front map lights. The Cover is a little tricky, you have the pry the bottom corners out first (near the switches) and then it slides out.
Cover comes off, two festoon type bulbs.
Replaced with a 9 LED board. Comparison to stock.
Both lights replaced.
Cover goes back on.
Moving onto the rear stock map lights. You can either pop the whole module out or just the cover, I did just the cover because its easier to test the LEDs when you put them in this way.
Cover comes off, another two festoon type bulbs on the inside.
I took off the black metal piece and threw it out, you don't really need it there since the LEDs cover the whole thing anyways.
Replaced one with an LED board, comparison to stock.
Both lights replaced.
Cover goes back on.
04-08-2011, 06:57 PM
#3
Moving down below, footwell lighting, small 168 bulb.
You can either slide your arm under the plastic and take out the socket, or you can just pull it out which is what I did. Nissan decided to put a condom on these ones for some reason.
Replaced it with a 6 LED board and stuck it using the double sided tape on the back. Repeat for the passenger side.
Moving on to the door lights. Cover just pops off.
Another 168 bulb on the inside.
Replaced with a 6 LED board. You could use a multi directional LED if you want the red to still shine through but I only wanted the ground to be lit up.
Cover back on. Repeat for all four doors.
Stock licence plate bulb.
You have to take off four clips to get the liner off to reach the bulbs.
Liner comes off, twist and pull the socket.
Another 168 bulb.
Replaced with a 5 LED bulb.
Put it all back and repeat for the other side.
You can either slide your arm under the plastic and take out the socket, or you can just pull it out which is what I did. Nissan decided to put a condom on these ones for some reason.
Replaced it with a 6 LED board and stuck it using the double sided tape on the back. Repeat for the passenger side.
Moving on to the door lights. Cover just pops off.
Another 168 bulb on the inside.
Replaced with a 6 LED board. You could use a multi directional LED if you want the red to still shine through but I only wanted the ground to be lit up.
Cover back on. Repeat for all four doors.
Stock licence plate bulb.
You have to take off four clips to get the liner off to reach the bulbs.
Liner comes off, twist and pull the socket.
Another 168 bulb.
Replaced with a 5 LED bulb.
Put it all back and repeat for the other side.
04-08-2011, 06:57 PM
#4
Trunk light has a small cover on it, pops off with a screwdriver.
Yet another 168 bulb.
Replaced with a 5 LED bulb.
Cover back on.
And thats basically it!
Total install time: about 20 min.
Total bulbs replaced: 13
Comments/questions/feedback welcome!
Yet another 168 bulb.
Replaced with a 5 LED bulb.
Cover back on.
And thats basically it!
Total install time: about 20 min.
Total bulbs replaced: 13
Comments/questions/feedback welcome!
04-14-2011, 09:19 PM
#6
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: inside my own mind
Posts: 1,506
I totally agree that this should be a sticky too. A lot of newbies will benefit a lot from this. Wished there was this type of thing when I started out. It would of helped me a lot.
Awesome work on the write up man.
Awesome work on the write up man.
04-15-2011, 06:39 PM
#9
Yessir $110 shipped for all the bulbs/adaptors, 100% plug and play. PM me if you want more info.
04-17-2011, 09:25 PM
#12
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: inside my own mind
Posts: 1,506
No problem, good luck on your sale.
By the way, this is an AWESOME price for all the led's that a person gets with this kit. Saves a good amount of money and the hassle of getting all these led's together.
By the way, this is an AWESOME price for all the led's that a person gets with this kit. Saves a good amount of money and the hassle of getting all these led's together.
Last edited by 6.5affiliate; 04-18-2011 at 12:13 AM.
04-27-2011, 08:43 AM
#15
Feel free to post pics of your installs, I'd love to see how they turned out.
there are tons of pictures in the original post!
06-17-2011, 10:00 PM
#25
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: inside my own mind
Posts: 1,506
06-18-2011, 11:29 AM
#28
Thanks for the great feedback guys!
I'm just gonna clear a few things up on the signal lights.
Converting your turn signals to LEDs gets very complicated on any vehicle and I'll explain why. The turn signal circuit is dependent on the resistance of the load (bulbs in this case) to determine the speed at which the signal flashes. In simple terms, putting in LEDs will make the signal flash too fast resulting in unwanted attention from the police AND you will look like a 16 year old ricer (no offence to any 16 year olds on the org).
Second issue that we reach is that most stock bulbs are putting out a large amount of light, usually anywhere from 20-30 watts per bulb which is significantly more than the interior. This makes it very hard to either match or improve the brightness of the stock bulb and also makes it really hard to see in the daytime if you do. Stock LED bulbs (Subaru Impreza, the new Camry etc..) , are different because they are spaced out and engineered from the factory to be bright, visible, and aimed towards your eye as opposed to cramming 500 LEDs into one socket which the stock reflector housing just wasn't made for. This applies to brake and signal lights.
The obvious solutions are to put a load resistor in and to put even more LEDs but this kinda defeats the whole purpose of LEDs in the first place (lower energy and heat consumption).
I'm not the kinda guy to just grab a random bulb and sell it to someone claiming that it will work properly when I know it won't. With that said, I'm currently working on a solution to the above problems but for now the brake and signal lights wont be available for the Maxima. When I do get a solid solution I will definitely post it up here.
Converting your turn signals to LEDs gets very complicated on any vehicle and I'll explain why. The turn signal circuit is dependent on the resistance of the load (bulbs in this case) to determine the speed at which the signal flashes. In simple terms, putting in LEDs will make the signal flash too fast resulting in unwanted attention from the police AND you will look like a 16 year old ricer (no offence to any 16 year olds on the org).
Second issue that we reach is that most stock bulbs are putting out a large amount of light, usually anywhere from 20-30 watts per bulb which is significantly more than the interior. This makes it very hard to either match or improve the brightness of the stock bulb and also makes it really hard to see in the daytime if you do. Stock LED bulbs (Subaru Impreza, the new Camry etc..) , are different because they are spaced out and engineered from the factory to be bright, visible, and aimed towards your eye as opposed to cramming 500 LEDs into one socket which the stock reflector housing just wasn't made for. This applies to brake and signal lights.
The obvious solutions are to put a load resistor in and to put even more LEDs but this kinda defeats the whole purpose of LEDs in the first place (lower energy and heat consumption).
I'm not the kinda guy to just grab a random bulb and sell it to someone claiming that it will work properly when I know it won't. With that said, I'm currently working on a solution to the above problems but for now the brake and signal lights wont be available for the Maxima. When I do get a solid solution I will definitely post it up here.
10-09-2012, 10:02 PM
#31
Newbie - Just Registered
Join Date: Nov 2010
Posts: 1
front dome light - map slit light!
Hey, Im a noob here and I got my reverse, dome, under, and door lights done.. but not as bring at yours since they were led bulbs not the sheet of lights but can we swtich the map lights out too? the little orange slit in between your front dome lights....???
11-26-2012, 11:25 PM
#33
06-26-2013, 08:01 PM
#36
Newbie - Just Registered
Join Date: May 2013
Posts: 12
As I live in St. Louis, superbrightleds.com is in my backyard and is where I got my bulbs.
Here are the part numbers and locations.
Map Lights and Rear Dome - DE3175 LED Bulb - p/n 3022-AHP4 - 4 SMD LED Festoon - cool white color
Light between front map lights -194 LED Bulb - p/n WLED-AHP5 - 5 SMD LED Wide Angle Wedge Base (I got mine in amber to maintain the color scheme in the car)
Courtesy lights under dash -194 LED Bulb - p/n WLED-CWHP15-TAC - 15 SMD LED Wedge Base Tower
As far as my trunk, I haven't scrapped the incandescent bulb in the deck but I have added two white LED strips from Wal-Mart of all places. The LED strips are about 5 inches long and I have them mounted to the trunk liner and wired directly to the deck light so they come on and go off with opening and closing the deck lid. I'll get pictures for you all later.
As far as changing the bulb in the overhead console, there are two screws that anchor it to the roof inside the drop out pocket. Remove the screws and then work your fingers around the edges of the console pulling down gently but firmly to dislodge the metal retainer clips from the roof. Careful, there is a harness that plugs into the board to supply power. Remove the harness and carefully remove the circuit board from the console housing. The reqular bulb is installed in a twist lock styled base and is easy to remove from the board. The bulb is a pain to remove from the base but if you carefully pry up on the bulb where it meets the base with a precision flat head screw drive it will come out. I used a knife and stabbed my finger, ouch. Reinstallation is the reverse of removal.
Mike in STL.
Last edited by vertigo72480; 07-01-2013 at 11:17 PM.
07-24-2013, 01:20 PM
#38
Newbie - Just Registered
Join Date: Mar 2006
Posts: 6
Best Place to Purchase LEDs for Interior Conversion?
Hey vertigo, I wanted to know what you thought of the quality of the LEDs from superbrightleds.com. I am interested in changing up my MAP, Rear Dome, Courtesy Lights, and under door lights.
To the rest of the forum, does anyone else have suggestions for places to buy LEDs? I'm a bit late to the game and doesn't seem like the users that used to sell kits are still doing so. I've seen v-led.com pop up searching through the forum, but just wanted some more suggestions.
To the rest of the forum, does anyone else have suggestions for places to buy LEDs? I'm a bit late to the game and doesn't seem like the users that used to sell kits are still doing so. I've seen v-led.com pop up searching through the forum, but just wanted some more suggestions.
I converted my '05 but haven't done the doors yet.
As I live in St. Louis, superbrightleds.com is in my backyard and is where I got my bulbs.
Here are the part numbers and locations.
Map Lights and Rear Dome - DE3175 LED Bulb - p/n 3022-AHP4 - 4 SMD LED Festoon - cool white color
Light between front map lights -194 LED Bulb - p/n WLED-AHP5 - 5 SMD LED Wide Angle Wedge Base (I got mine in amber to maintain the color scheme in the car)
Courtesy lights under dash -194 LED Bulb - p/n WLED-CWHP15-TAC - 15 SMD LED Wedge Base Tower
As far as my trunk, I haven't scrapped the incandescent bulb in the deck but I have added two white LED strips from Wal-Mart of all places. The LED strips are about 5 inches long and I have them mounted to the trunk liner and wired directly to the deck light so they come on and go off with opening and closing the deck lid. I'll get pictures for you all later.
As far as changing the bulb in the overhead console, there are two screws that anchor it to the roof inside the drop out pocket. Remove the screws and then work your fingers around the edges of the console pulling down gently but firmly to dislodge the metal retainer clips from the roof. Careful, there is a harness that plugs into the board to supply power. Remove the harness and carefully remove the circuit board from the console housing. The reqular bulb is installed in a twist lock styled base and is easy to remove from the board. The bulb is a pain to remove from the base but if you carefully pry up on the bulb where it meets the base with a precision flat head screw drive it will come out. I used a knife and stabbed my finger, ouch. Reinstallation is the reverse of removal.
Mike in STL.
As I live in St. Louis, superbrightleds.com is in my backyard and is where I got my bulbs.
Here are the part numbers and locations.
Map Lights and Rear Dome - DE3175 LED Bulb - p/n 3022-AHP4 - 4 SMD LED Festoon - cool white color
Light between front map lights -194 LED Bulb - p/n WLED-AHP5 - 5 SMD LED Wide Angle Wedge Base (I got mine in amber to maintain the color scheme in the car)
Courtesy lights under dash -194 LED Bulb - p/n WLED-CWHP15-TAC - 15 SMD LED Wedge Base Tower
As far as my trunk, I haven't scrapped the incandescent bulb in the deck but I have added two white LED strips from Wal-Mart of all places. The LED strips are about 5 inches long and I have them mounted to the trunk liner and wired directly to the deck light so they come on and go off with opening and closing the deck lid. I'll get pictures for you all later.
As far as changing the bulb in the overhead console, there are two screws that anchor it to the roof inside the drop out pocket. Remove the screws and then work your fingers around the edges of the console pulling down gently but firmly to dislodge the metal retainer clips from the roof. Careful, there is a harness that plugs into the board to supply power. Remove the harness and carefully remove the circuit board from the console housing. The reqular bulb is installed in a twist lock styled base and is easy to remove from the board. The bulb is a pain to remove from the base but if you carefully pry up on the bulb where it meets the base with a precision flat head screw drive it will come out. I used a knife and stabbed my finger, ouch. Reinstallation is the reverse of removal.
Mike in STL.
07-25-2013, 10:42 PM
#40
Newbie - Just Registered
Join Date: May 2013
Posts: 12
Reply
Hey vertigo, I wanted to know what you thought of the quality of the LEDs from superbrightleds.com. I am interested in changing up my MAP, Rear Dome, Courtesy Lights, and under door lights.
To the rest of the forum, does anyone else have suggestions for places to buy LEDs? I'm a bit late to the game and doesn't seem like the users that used to sell kits are still doing so. I've seen v-led.com pop up searching through the forum, but just wanted some more suggestions.
To the rest of the forum, does anyone else have suggestions for places to buy LEDs? I'm a bit late to the game and doesn't seem like the users that used to sell kits are still doing so. I've seen v-led.com pop up searching through the forum, but just wanted some more suggestions.
This is not the first time I have purchased LEDs from superbrightleds.com. I have used them for Titan as well and plan on converting all my father's low voltage lighting to LED as well. Great, and I really do mean great customer service, fantastic product, long life, well built, and I think lifetime warranty too. Certainly a good buy.