Kryogen

Update:

oh as an update, I replaced it (2 years ago), was a crappy job. tight space.

Didnt fix the clunk, so I probably wasted 400$.
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Who here had a steering rack clunk or problem that needed replacement ? Where did you get the new rack from, did you do the job yourself, etc? Thanks.

ArmaanOG

either your rack macking the sound or your mounts, or swaybars also

Kryogen

no sound when swaybar links DCed.....
clunks in the tie rods while turning the tires when car is jacked on subframe.... weird

going to nissan on thursday to confirm. expensive part...

asking a rebuilt rack parts store owner whats the issue with out racks and how he adrsesses this.

I'll keep you informed as soona s I know more.

I asked him more about my vibation and clunking, and how he addresses this.... so far for the first question:

So far :

Hello,

The main issue with the Maxima/Altima racks are fault input shaft brackets that commonly tare away at the inner teflon seals on the rack. This ofcourse causes the rack to leak. With out rebuilds, we include an updated shaft bracket that addresses the problem. We have had ZERO recorded problems/leaks with these racks since our updated design.

Please feel free to call with any questions.

Thanks!
Danny
Car Steering
800-399-7845

acercomp71

^^Danny addressed a leak issue, which is not the problem that you have. From what i read, you are having a mechanical noise not a leak. And yes, I have replaced entire rack. Job is pretty straightforward, but yes, OEM part is damn expensive. Make sure you are sure you got a bad rack, part is around 1000 bucks. And hey, stay away from rebuilt racks, I learned the lesson hard way. There is also a tricky procedure of centering the rack, then centering steering wheel, and only then alignment in that exact order as described. If you need detailed writeup, let me know. Oh, also, rack will not slide out UNLESS you create more room by removing top bolt, it is a very tight fit, make sure not to damage tubing while you wiggle rack out of there.
To unscrew tubing you will need to access a high pressure nut and low pressure hose clamp from top. Remove air box for access.
Do not bother removing tie rods, leave them alone, simply separate them from knuckle and remove entire asembly. OEM rack comes with tie rods by the way, inner and outer, so I guess high price is somewhat justified.

Kryogen

Ya, danny never replied to my question regarding the clunk and how he rebuilds to address this.... I find this strange.....

I checked again and It seems that the clunking is more pronounced near the input shaft (is this how it's called anyway)?, there the steering linkage enters. Could it be what danny relates as " input shaft brackets "????

I checked yesterday and it seemed to me like I could disconnect rack, remove the 2 bolts, disconnect lines, and wiggle it out without dropping the exhaust and subframe. That's what you are saying right?

At this point, I really wonder why and how the rack could clunk when turning the wheels while subframe is under load, but the clunk is there, so I dont know..... I also suspect the axles, but they dont seem to make any noise themselves....

Did you have a clunking steering rack also???? what was your issue?

Thanks

NIKV69

I replaced mine with a nice cheap one on ebay I will try to find who I used.

NYCMAXIMA

Word??? How long ago did you get the ebay rack?? Do u have any issues??

Kryogen

Why did you replace it, what was your issue?
Is it working fine now?

acercomp71

i replaced my rack because it would make noise when turning left (clunk/click whatever you call it), it would also make noise when hitting a bump or a hole while turning left. When I diconnected tie rod from the knuckle to inspect it, the shaft would give a play up and down when turning steering wheel. There should be absolutely no play in that shaft. I beleive it was a design flaw for 2004 early production, but part got eventually redesigned. After replacing a rack (I bought OEM) there was zero noise. I can't stress this enough- stay the hell away from rebuilt racks. If it had mechanical failure prior to rebuild, it will still have mechanical failure after rebuild, noone, NOONE will bother messing with shafts or gear mechanism, trust me on this. all they do is swap the seals, maybe flush it, paint it, and that's it.

Kryogen

Danny never replied to my email asking how he deals with faulty clunking racks.... all he told me about is replacing seals.... eh. Doesnt make me trust him alot ......

Courtesy nissan has 2 models of racks, which one do I actually get ?!?

acercomp71

Is this your first time buying OEM parts? if it is, what you do you just give your dealer VIN# and there will be only one kind of a part that will fit your vehicle guaranteed.

Kryogen

Nissan was 1200$ CAN. Forget it. I ordered a rebuilt rack at a local shop here. It's a CARDONE. 2 year warranty. 400$. bah, if it's fine and it lasts 2 years, I guess it's fine anyway. If it's not fine, then it wont be fine for 2 year, and I'll bring it back....

I'll tell you how it went once I install it.

Kryogen

oh as an update, I replaced it (2 years ago), was a crappy job. tight space.

Didnt fix the clunk, so I probably wasted 400$.