Installed my hid kit on my 05 Nissan Maxima SE. Everything was plug and play but when my lights are turned on my bulb flickers here is a link of the video of my flickering hid kit... Does anyone know if i need a relay for them ?http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=x3Zw4PiJP_w

 

40 bones, i guess you get what you pay for, a relay won't do anything, its just a switch.

 

Swap the bulbs from one side to the other. If the flickering persists on the same side, you ballast is on it's way out. If the flickering switches over to the other side, then the bulb is on it's way out.

Get a relay harness for the future, once you solve your problem.

 

I did all the switching side bulbs and ballast bought new bulbs and kept same ballast still does same thing flickers, do I just need new ballasts?

 

I thought that some cars need the relays, I don't know much on how they work but would it solve the flickering you think? or purchasing a new ballast will fix it?

 

I'm assuming your car has stock HID already, which makes me thinking why would you want to change the OEM bulb to crapy cheap ebay ones.

If you flicker all the time, relay isn't going to help either. It's bad ballast I think.

 

I didn't mention that It came with stock Halogen lights not hid, that is why I am trying to achieve this hid look..

 

If it's still flickering with the new bulbs then you probably have a bad ballast. I'm more than certain that's your problem. Be sure to get a relay harness.

 

You definitely need new ballasts. Since the bulbs have already been ruled out since you bought new bulbs. Where did you buy this kit from originally?

Also agree with dee.signs in that you don't need a relay at all. Unless your speaking about the fog lights. Which have a tendency to trip out.

 

My HID fogs trip out. You got a solution?

 

Depends

 

ahh okay, thanks guys, much appreciate the help here.. I will keep you updated, will purchase new ballasts and post results. Thanks.

 

hid kits are ****. they will blow on you like that for no reason non stop. Did the same to me. Plus, it burned both my fog housings. I ended up going back to halogen fogs, and not turning them on anyway.

As for the main beams, go OEM or you will end up having crap happen like that every 6 months.

 

I am attempting to try it again, I contacted my hid distributor(Xantec- CRAP DON'T BUY THEIR KITS AT ALL) they have agreed to send me two new ballasts free of charge, if they don't fix my flickering then I will purchase relay..

 

when my battery low it does da same but if dey cheap hids den yea they will flicker...

 

Well Here is what I did yesterday, Instead of buying the relay, I spliced into one of the wires that connects to the ballast (positive wire red+) and connected the plug to my ballast to power the bulb, checked my volts battery is at 13.77 when car is running and same amount is being received at the connector to the ballast, ran wire from positive battery terminal to my spliced wire for the plug, and same result, my hid flickered just as before, I am waiting for the new ballasts to come in to replace them, hopefully that is the actual problem, what I did with the battery directly connected to the ballast eliminated the need for a relay i believe, it would do the same thing is that correct?

 

Yeah, it's basically the same concept or purpose of a relay. Keep us posted on how the new ballasts work for you.

 

so, received my new ballasts, installed them, and guess what---- SAME problem, so I went and read some more about kits, what i found out was that the cheap kits dont mach currents AC toAC, instead its DC or AC or DC to AC, if this is true or not, I don't know, but I am going to purchase a new kit from DDM tunning, (Xentec said that a relay is 30bux, If i spend that I would rather add 20 and buy a brand new kit, even on their website it says that all kits they sell are AC.. (should eliminate the problem) my question is, I was thinking about buying 55watt kit instead of 35watt, do you guys know if a 55 watt kit will get too hot for my projector housings and melt harness? or has anyone done this and it all worked out okay?

 

dude, hid kits are ****. they will all **** on you. forget about fixing a ****ty kit... buy a new one and have it **** on you over and over again.

 

Thanks for your input.

 

I think you need to do a little research. You need to find out what the wattage is of your OEM bulbs. MATCH that wattage. If you don't you will melt things. The relay is a switch. It is there so you can integrate a high load to a line that won't support the current. For example, if you buy a 12 volt relay, the relay will close when 12 volts flow to it. On the contact side of the relay you would put a power wire frome your source, batterty, fuse ect. to your load, i.e. your ballest. As long as you use the right gauge wire for the correct amount of current, you won't have to worry about melting a thing. And if you are expecting to use 55watt assembly and you have a source of, say, 13 volts then you have a current rating of 4.5 amps or so. So, you would need to be sure to have thick enough wire from your ballest to battery( keep in mind this is the power wire to the ballest from the source). But you ma only need milliamps to power the relay, switchm, to turn this on or off. image attached.

 

I'm extremely surprised those new ballasts didn't solve your problem. Are they the Xentec slim or chunky ones? I have some slim ones here and they're absolutely fine. If you want a super high quality aftermarket set up, get some Morimoto bulbs/ballasts and a relay harness from theretrofitsource.com I guarantee you won't be disappointed. They're stuff isn't as cheap as all the other stuff but their quality is top notch. Personally, I'm using DDM 55W ballasts with Morimoto 50W 5000K D2S bulbs and they're great. If you can shell out the extra cash, go with the Morimoto stuff.

Now, as for going 55W in projectors.. Halogen projectors are usually larger than HID projectors and stand up well to the extra wattage. I ran 55Ws in halogen J30 projectors for a while and had no problems.

 

and the 55w burned my fog housings to death.

and I said it earlier, hid kits are crap. they are going to fail on you over and over again unless you buy stuff from the retrofit source, which seems to me like the only reliable place to get hid stuff.

You seem to think that I am kidding you, but I had 3 hid kits fail all within 6 months each. Cheap china crap, you get what you pay for.

 

They aren't meant for fog housings.

 

Yes, they are the slim once , first set that I ever received from them was the chunky kit we can call it, and the second set of ballasts was slim and fit well with the issue present.

 

I will try the DDM kit will be ordering one this week hopefully that is a quality kit.

 

Does someone know if 35watt kit 6k color light will be more visible on the road vs 35watt 5k light, or will the 5k be more noticeable on the road?

 

5000K is a little brighter and pure white, 6000K is a little dimmer with a slight hint of blue. Personally, I love 5000K > all other temperatures.

 

That's what I wanted to know, I'm going for more light output on the road look here, I figured that buying DDM kit is a good idea, seem to be a good company. We will see what happens after I get them. Thanks.

 

I looked at my halogen stock bulb and its a 55watt 12v bulb, my question is if I buy a 55watt 5k hid kit, will the housing work with it? since it already had a 55watt in and harness should be okay is my thinking correct here?

 

It should be fine. Get a relay harness, seriously.

 

+1, for aftermarket kits I'd use a relay.

Does the 55W ballast use the same amount of power as a 35W ballast during startup or is it higher?

 

It probably uses more (I've never measured) but with the relay, that doesn't matter.

 

Just bought a hid kit from DDM Tuning total came out $58, lets wait and see whats next.

 

Your 55 Halogen bulb draws roughly 4.6 amps at start up (55watt/12 volt). Your HID ballast, depending on the brand and maker draws almost double of that of the first few second and drops down to 3-3.5 amps when it is stable. I know that most OEM ballast draw 8-9 amps at few split second. Most of aftermarket ballast didn't draw that much but it is defenetly more than 3.5 at start up, they may not go all the way up to 8 amps but to compensate that they stay above 3.5 a little longer than the OEM ballasts do.

Relay cost $20 at ebay and that works just fine better than no relay at all. If you happened to damage the OEM harness, it cost you a lot more for sure.......

Just a suggestion.

 

Gotcha, to be safe and not have future issues I went with 35watt 5k DDM tuning hid kit, hopefully that will fix the problem, if not then I'll buy the relay and Ill have 2 working kits left over from the previous once.

 

It is true, I order the same Xentec HIDs for 35$ thinking "what could be the difference" Oh the shame. When put to test the color and flickering started,few days later the ballast took a sh*t, after all the hard work removing the tire, broke couple of clips from the fender, waste of time, So at the end I decided to buy the 90$.

 

At least I'm not the only one with the problem with the same crappy kit.

 

Wished you could've posted your questions before you attempted to install an HID kit. The easiest way would be removing the bumper. Which would of saved you the headache.

I know some people prefer to go through the fender but that leaves very little room for you to be able to access your headlights.

 

I personally think that its a lot easier and much faster taking the bumper off, there are total of (4) screws that hold the bumper up on each side, front is held by clips that you just pull off it they let loose, remove the grill (very easy to do) and then all your left with is the either fog lights, or in my case I have the turn signal helpers Lights I call them, to disconnect and your all set, a lot easier, then the Headlight is held by approximately 5 screws 3 on the bottom, 2 on top which are easy to remove, I suggest that you install new once as what happen to me after removing them 3 times, bolts started to break and had to drill them out, caused a lot of unnecessary work.