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Need a Brake And Rotor Recomendation

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Old Apr 9, 2012 | 06:50 PM
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DJLAX152's Avatar
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Need a Brake And Rotor Recomendation

Hi guys, I have a 2007 Max SE. I was wondering if anyone had a good experience with a set of brakes and rotors. I live in the city and i have a lot of stop and go traffic. Im more interested in a long lasting product rather than performance or if they go hand and hand that works too.

Any suggestions?
I def want Ceramic Brake pads, got tired of my rims covered in dust. Also Any rotors that do well against corrosion?

Thanks for any help guys!!!
Old Apr 9, 2012 | 08:38 PM
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Ceramic pads with drilled/slotted rotors

Got these at Amazon.com with free shipping for $265 for front and rear. I have a 2006 SE. They look awesome with my aftermarket wheels and very low brake dust. No brake squeal either...(Power Stop K092 Front/Rear Ceramic Brake Pad and Cross Drilled/Slotted Combo Rotor)
Old Apr 9, 2012 | 08:41 PM
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Powerstop FTW if they make it for your gen. Cheap and awesome. Lots of companies brand the same rotors so any of them will work. Callahan etc
Old Apr 9, 2012 | 09:14 PM
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You can find crossed drilled and slotted rotors with ceramic brake pads shipped to your door for around $300-375. If they offer zinch for free get it instead of the paint. The zinch slows down the rush allowing the rotors to last longer than expected.

While you're in there you might want to just paint the calipers one time. Give it a fresh look.
Old Apr 10, 2012 | 03:46 AM
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Originally Posted by mrjasonlyrics
The zinch slows down the rush allowing the rotors to last longer than expected.
2004 still on oem rotors.
Surface rust on the hub doesnt harm the rotors. Just wirebrush them every 2 years if you care.......
Old Apr 10, 2012 | 08:13 AM
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Hi guys I really appreciated all of your info. this is very helpful!! If i get slotted or drilled rotors will a typical shop cut those in the future if needed? (i.e. Midas, Firestone ect..) I think I remember hearing that they wont cut them if they are slotted or drilled. not 100% on that tho.
Old Apr 10, 2012 | 08:19 AM
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Originally Posted by DJLAX152
Hi guys I really appreciated all of your info. this is very helpful!! If i get slotted or drilled rotors will a typical shop cut those in the future if needed? (i.e. Midas, Firestone ect..) I think I remember hearing that they wont cut them if they are slotted or drilled. not 100% on that tho.
The crossed drilled and slotted rotors can not be machined because it's not a flat surface. You just gotta look out for your pads when you change rims to make sure they aren't worn down. If the wear indicator makes contact with the rotor you'll have to live with the lines or replace it.
Old Apr 10, 2012 | 07:57 PM
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Originally Posted by mrjasonlyrics
The crossed drilled and slotted rotors can not be machined because it's not a flat surface. You just gotta look out for your pads when you change rims to make sure they aren't worn down. If the wear indicator makes contact with the rotor you'll have to live with the lines or replace it.
Thanks Jason! Forgive me I am not really very mechanically inclined lol so why do they cut rotors anyways? Every time i need a brake job the mechanic tells me " Ohh boy we really need to cut these rotors too" feeling like a Ditzy blonde girl I usually just say "okay do what you gotta do" and pay for it. I don't think they are trying to rip me off but im curious why its so "essential" every-time I go for a brake job? Is it because the cheaper rotors warp or something? Sorry to annoy everyone with my newbie questions Thanks for you help guys!

Last edited by DJLAX152; Apr 10, 2012 at 08:02 PM.
Old Apr 10, 2012 | 08:01 PM
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Just go to a good auto parts store and ask them for brake rotors. They will ask you if you economy or the good stuff. Get the good stuff, it lasts 3 times longer. With the pads, buy "Wagner thermoquiet" pads. These pads are great because they don't make your wheels black and they are quiet.

Good luck.
Old Apr 10, 2012 | 08:50 PM
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From what I understand you can or should only "true" aka cut rotors once. Some suggest just getting new ones instead. So I hope they are not or just as bad charging you yet are not actually cutting the same rotors more than once.

My slotted rotors have lasted a long time. I recently bought a set of blank rotors from amazon and ceramic pads from rockauto.com for when they need replaced.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...01_i01_details
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...01_i00_details
on rockauto:
RAYBESTOS Part # {#PGD905M} Professional Grade
RAYBESTOS Part {#PGD969M} Professional Grade

though I haven't used them yet, I went for price and reviews.
My current AKEBONO set squealed like crazy last summer but I think the got glazed but seem better now. My Axxis Ultimate pads before these made rims black.
Old Apr 10, 2012 | 09:18 PM
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Why could you not mill slotted rotors? I have 300zx calipers and had to have my rotors milled 2mm
Old Apr 10, 2012 | 09:42 PM
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I just put on EBC OEM solid rotors and Hawk Ceramic pads and am very satisfied. I am not a fan of slotted or drilled myself.
Old Apr 11, 2012 | 02:04 AM
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Originally Posted by DJLAX152
Thanks Jason! Forgive me I am not really very mechanically inclined lol so why do they cut rotors anyways? Every time i need a brake job the mechanic tells me " Ohh boy we really need to cut these rotors too" feeling like a Ditzy blonde girl I usually just say "okay do what you gotta do" and pay for it. I don't think they are trying to rip me off but im curious why its so "essential" every-time I go for a brake job? Is it because the cheaper rotors warp or something? Sorry to annoy everyone with my newbie questions Thanks for you help guys!
The slots are to channel water,debris, and brake dust away from the surfice and the cross drill and vent are for quick cooling. The stopping power with the cross drill and slotted rotors are way more than you need for a stock motor.

When I installed mine I thought it was brembo's or somthing It will take a few days to get use to because you'll notice a big difference in the stopping distance. Try to find a seller that offers the zink with the price. I don't see why you wouldn't get it. It give your car a nice sporty look...
Old Apr 11, 2012 | 05:17 AM
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this is a good read for someone in your situation...

http://forums.maxima.org/advanced-su...-not-work.html
Old Apr 11, 2012 | 06:22 AM
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I wish I had the time to read all that mumbo jumbo. But I'm not giving my opinion based on a article. I'm giving it based on experience. I've used crossed drilled and/or slotted rotors with ceramic ever since and I haven't had any problems as long as I changed the pads before they wear down and the wear indicator makes contact with the rotor.

You could take the advice of an article or mine. I 've had mine for about 3yrs now and haven't changed the pads yets and it's still got some time left. I drag race now so I'll be changing it soon because of that. Besides, seeing the crossed drilled and slotted rotors with painted calipers brings out the apprearence of your rims...
Old Apr 11, 2012 | 06:45 AM
  #16  
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ha, I am sorry but I will trust the opinion of the brake manufacturers that have actually measured stop distances and put meters on wear down components over a butt dyno at the strip. Super glad you are happy with your setup, just saying...you can get the same results with other components as well.

for the most part the article is just saying they don't provide much benefit and drilled are not preferred for heavy usage. That's from Stoptech. For daily driving it doesn't matter. That is the main point to get from it all. Good pads and high quality solid rotors will give you the same bite. I used solid brembos for years and had great results for cheaper than slotted/drilled. Get whatever you want, you will get about the same results. pads make way more difference than rotors for our cars. and to me, slotted/drilled look out of place one the max and painting a caliper as small as ours is like a guy with a tiny ***** wearing a speedo. Why draw attention to it? personal preference though. I always say do what makes you happy with your car, you are the one driving and paying for it. screw what others think.
Old Apr 11, 2012 | 08:04 AM
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Tiny ***** in a Spedo lol!! Thanks for the article, I'm going to read the article so I can educate myself about this stuff a little more.... mrjasonlyrics 3 years for Pads and Rotors!! "Thats What I'm talking about!" I usually have to replace mine every year and a half or so! That would be awesome if I could get that kind of life out of my Rotors and Pads!!! I know it all depends on how you drive ect ect.. I'm pretty much doing city driving with the occasional Road trip no more than 400 miles.
Old Apr 11, 2012 | 08:24 AM
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that seems way to often to need replacement. either you have been sold cheap brake materials or you could adjust your driving style.

1) Make sure you're not touching the brake pedal with either foot when accelerating. (surprising how many do this and have no idea)
2)When you know there is a stop sign or traffic ahead, let go of accelerator early and try to coast to a stop. you will save a lot of gas and brakes.
(Most people use way to much gas pedal and hit the brakes hard/late due to bad habits, poor judgment of traffic movement, or just plain in a hurry)
I try to only touch my brake pedal AT the stop sign, with light pressure and to feather off it to prevent the car from a sudden STOP.

Unless you know you are buying high quality drilled rotors you are risking them cracking. We are not race car drivers. Race car drivers beat up their cars and replace parts especially brakes WAY more often.
I like my slotted rotors but will just use blanks for now on. The noise bothers some, I hadn't noticed it. Zinc or powder coated non-pad surfaces are nice but do not last very long. Especially where they salt the roads.
Old Apr 11, 2012 | 08:28 AM
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Centric Blanks which also is the same company that makes Powerslot rotors.
Old Apr 11, 2012 | 08:30 AM
  #20  
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wow I suggest all read that thread. How are the manufacturers as sources mumbo jumbo? Here is an important highlight.:

From Wilwood's website:
QUOTE
Q: Why are some rotors drilled or slotted?
A: Rotors are drilled to reduce rotating weight, an issue near and dear to racers searching for ways to minimize unsprung weight. Drilling diminishes a rotor's durability and cooling capacity.

Slots or grooves in rotor faces are partly a carryover from the days of asbestos pads. Asbestos and other organic pads were prone to "glazing" and the slots tended to help "scrape or de-glaze" them. Drilling and slotting rotors has become popular in street applications for their pure aesthetic value. Wilwood has a large selection of drilled and slotted rotors for a wide range of applications.
I still had glazing with my ceramics. My slots did not help. Blanks win.
Old Apr 11, 2012 | 09:12 AM
  #21  
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Check out 88 rotors they are the cheapest drilled and slotted rotors that are vented and made from quality material. I have been running them for about a year... No complaints, they are a great upgrade for half the price.
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