So I recently got a 2006 Maxima and replaced the rear brake pads and rotors with EBC red stuff brakes. I will admit this is the first time I have replaced brakes, and it looked simple enoughf so figured why not try. I looked online and saw a post on how to do it and followed the instructions there. I realized afterwards after looking at a few other post the one I saw was incorrect. So the steps they posted were as follows.
1. Open the value to brake fluid(Which later I learned was supposed to be after opening callipers)
2. Jack up car and remove wheel
3. Unbolt caliper and fasten to anything with a zip tie so its not hanging by cable
4. Remove Rotor and replace
5. Reinstall Calliper
6. Remove the one bolt to gain access to pads and replace them
7. Push calliper back and I bought the tool from Kragen and didn't know you had to turn clockwise
8. Reinstall bolt and apply brake to insure pressure
9. Reassemble wheel and lower car

Now when I did this the wheel turned freely before applying the brake, but after doing a test drive the callipers wont release, I get a grinding sound, and it looks like there is a lot of wear for only a half mile of driving, and its uneven. I tried to reset the callipers and when I dont apply the brake it still spins freely, but after appling the brake even with the tire in the air it goes back to the resistance and grinding sound. I know its my fault for not doing more research, but does anyone have any idea what could be the problem? I have looked at a few threads and it seems like the calliper can seize up and I'm assuming that's the issue. I still have good brake pressure to stop(but guessing thats from the front brakes, which are brand new EBC brakes but a friend did that for me), and there is not shake in the wheel, and the brake pedal still has a lot of resistance and doesn't go all the way to the floor after intial application of brake pedal. Thank you for any help you might have. I'm a novice when it comes to cars, but just dont want to be completly taken advantage of if I take my car to a shop.

 

Sounds like caliper to me.

1) Before you realized that you need to turn them, did you clamp the fvck out of them to get them to go back in? If so, maybe you broke a piece of the piston (I've had this happen before on a different vehicle)

2) Did you smell your brakes burning when you were driving it?

3) When driving, does that one side get SUPER hot compared to the other side (WARNING...touch your wheel, not the caliper or rotor or you'll burn the **** outta yourself)?

4) Have you pulled the wheel off and looked at the piston of the offending caliper? Does the caliper piston spin freely (as if you were trying to push it back in), or is it frozen solid? Either way, it will need to be replaced.


5) Is your e-brake functioning properly on that side? Is the spring releasing properly and not causing the piston to stay out?

Theres not much else that could cause it except your caliper. You're gonna have to take your wheel and brakes back off and have a look.

 

It's good to clean the sliding pins and reapply grease once in a while (I do it every time I change my pads now). If you don't do this, it increases their chance of seizing up. You also want to make sure you apply enough grease on the retaining pads. I had an issue where one of my retaining pads was bent a bit and the pad was not sliding on it freely. This caused uneven wear of the pad and scratched up my rotor.

 

make sure your sliding pins are clean and lubed with silicone grease and that they slide freely.
make sure shims are installed properly, and pads slide freely, with some grease on the pad/caliper contact surfaces.

report after that.
I clean/lube my caliper slide pins twice a year, every tire change. overkill but no issues