Sway in the rear end?
Sway in the rear end?
2004 - Automatic - 150K
Anyone care to offer a suggestion on what would be the first thing you look at as the cause of a bad swaying when going high speeds, like on the interstate and you hit an overpass bump or sometimes even when changing lanes?
An example, going about 65 mph and hit a bump on an interstate overpass that has a slight curve to it, after you hit the bump, the back end starts smoothly swaying up and down and takes a few minutes to settle back down. I'm sure it's visible to driver's behind us.
Shocks? Any thoughts appreciated!
Anyone care to offer a suggestion on what would be the first thing you look at as the cause of a bad swaying when going high speeds, like on the interstate and you hit an overpass bump or sometimes even when changing lanes?
An example, going about 65 mph and hit a bump on an interstate overpass that has a slight curve to it, after you hit the bump, the back end starts smoothly swaying up and down and takes a few minutes to settle back down. I'm sure it's visible to driver's behind us.
Shocks? Any thoughts appreciated!
Yeah, as IceBerg said, your rear struts are probably shot. If they are original to the car, then that should not be a surprise. If I were you, I would change all 4 of them out. You'll save on fuel, and your tires will last longer as well.
Bounce on each corner of the car and if it bounces more than once your shocks are most likely blown. On the rear they are cheap as they are shocks not struts. To check if your springs are ok check ride height on each corner, if your car sits low on one corner then that spring needs to be replaced.
With the mileage you have most of your suspension is probably shot: control arm bushing, ball joints, ect. The suspension components on a maxima are designed to function 60,000-80,000 miles, and the shocks and struts even less than that.
With the mileage you have most of your suspension is probably shot: control arm bushing, ball joints, ect. The suspension components on a maxima are designed to function 60,000-80,000 miles, and the shocks and struts even less than that.
Thank you all!! Will do those simple tests and get those things looked at and repaired asap as he's getting ready to put new tires on it. We've also been disappointed in the gas mileage it has been getting so maybe that will help, even if it's one more mile a gallon, every one counts! Thanks again!
my oem shocks were shot at 40k miles, 3 out of 4 had no presure.
Changed them again at 100k miles anyway. Just to make sure (I though they were clunking ), but they were still good.
Right now I have lifetime warranty monroe sensatracs. They work fine.
The kyb gr2 are stiffer. You might like that, they were holding curves a tad better but they were a bit rough for me on bumps.
More comftable with sensatracs.
I would check stab bar bushings and end links also, front and back.
Make sure everything is tight.
When my stab bar end links were shot, the car drove really bad.
MOOG are worth it, better than oem imo. stiffer.
Changed them again at 100k miles anyway. Just to make sure (I though they were clunking ), but they were still good.
Right now I have lifetime warranty monroe sensatracs. They work fine.
The kyb gr2 are stiffer. You might like that, they were holding curves a tad better but they were a bit rough for me on bumps.
More comftable with sensatracs.
I would check stab bar bushings and end links also, front and back.
Make sure everything is tight.
When my stab bar end links were shot, the car drove really bad.
MOOG are worth it, better than oem imo. stiffer.
Last edited by Kryogen; Aug 12, 2013 at 06:39 PM.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post



