Maxi won't crank
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: Dec 2013
Posts: 150
Maxi won't crank
Hi experts,
Please help me fix my 2004 maxi.
Some times car won't crank . I turn on the light and its normal. I put the key in off position and try to start the car. It starts. It's been happening for a week now.
Please help me fix my 2004 maxi.
Some times car won't crank . I turn on the light and its normal. I put the key in off position and try to start the car. It starts. It's been happening for a week now.
Senior Member
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 1,446
From: California
You need to be more specific. There are many shades of this problem:
1. Starter turns the engine, but the engine does not start.
2. The starter spins fast, but does not turn the engine.
3. The starter just clicks, but does not spin (and therefore, can't turn the engine).
4. The starter does nothing - no click, no spin.
Which one of the above symptoms are you experiencing?
1. Starter turns the engine, but the engine does not start.
2. The starter spins fast, but does not turn the engine.
3. The starter just clicks, but does not spin (and therefore, can't turn the engine).
4. The starter does nothing - no click, no spin.
Which one of the above symptoms are you experiencing?
Senior Member
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 1,446
From: California
OK, this helps.
So, your starter is not turning. This may occur because:
- No battery voltage is getting to it (bad ignition key or bad battery contacts/wiring/ignition relay), or
- The battery voltage is good on its own (12.5V or so) but it gets too depleted by the time it gets there (say, less the 9V on the starter when cranking), or
- Because the battery is too low and/or weak (can't maintain >9.5V on the starter when cranking),
- Because the starter itself is bad.
Start by checking the battery and its contacts, clean and wiggle. Check the battery voltage. Last, measure the voltage on the starter (when cranking); you have to remove the air box to do this, so this is the last step. The result should answer all the above questions.
So, your starter is not turning. This may occur because:
- No battery voltage is getting to it (bad ignition key or bad battery contacts/wiring/ignition relay), or
- The battery voltage is good on its own (12.5V or so) but it gets too depleted by the time it gets there (say, less the 9V on the starter when cranking), or
- Because the battery is too low and/or weak (can't maintain >9.5V on the starter when cranking),
- Because the starter itself is bad.
Start by checking the battery and its contacts, clean and wiggle. Check the battery voltage. Last, measure the voltage on the starter (when cranking); you have to remove the air box to do this, so this is the last step. The result should answer all the above questions.
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: Dec 2013
Posts: 150
battery voltage is 12.5V.
when I put the key into ignition, it does not do anything. all I hear only 1 click.
then I take out the key and reinsert and try to start, the car start.
1) is the starter normally bad ? or I can replace the solenoid ?
2) where to locate Starter Relay ?
3) which ground cable should I clean ?
thanks
when I put the key into ignition, it does not do anything. all I hear only 1 click.
then I take out the key and reinsert and try to start, the car start.
1) is the starter normally bad ? or I can replace the solenoid ?
2) where to locate Starter Relay ?
3) which ground cable should I clean ?
thanks
Last edited by Pnjboyzz; Jan 6, 2017 at 09:49 AM.
The fact that you remove the key and then re-try to start the car and it does start sounds like you may have an ignition switch problem. When you go to start the car the first time, try turning the key more quickly and more forcefully. If this works, then the ignition switch is wearing out. If it does not work, this still does not rule out the ignition switch.
Another thing to try is (assuming you have an automatic transmission) would be to put the transmission lever in neutral and then try to start the car. There is a part called the Park/Neutral Starter Switch that could be failing.
The starter relay is the least likely part to be causing the problem, but you can't rule it out, either. It is located under the hood in the IPDM (Intelligent Power Distribution Module) that is behind the passenger side headlight. See page 23 in the link for the component layout of the IPDM.
http://boredmder.com/FSMs/Nissan/Maxima/2004/PG.pdf
The way to test if the ignition switch is working is to check for 12 volts on 2 wires in the IPDM. Locate connector # E119 In the diagram it is on the lower left side of the diagram. It is a 4 wire connector. Using your voltmeter, connect one lead to ground and the other lead to pin 4, a black with red stripe wire. This wire comes from the ignition switch, so it should have 12 volts when you turn the key to the START position. If it does not get 12 volts, you have an ignition switch problem.
If you do get 12 volts and the starter doesn't crank over the engine, move the voltmeter probe to pin # 3 of connector E119, a black with white stripe wire. This pin is the 12 volts coming out of the relay and going to the starter solenoid. If you don't have 12 volts, then you have either an IPDM of a relay problem.
If you have 12 volts at pin 3 and the starter isn't cranking, you have a starter problem. Maybe it is the solenoid, maybe it is the motor, maybe it is the ground. You asked if you could replace the solenoid. Yes you could, but not all places sell the solenoid by itself. They want you to buy the whole starter.
Another thing to try is (assuming you have an automatic transmission) would be to put the transmission lever in neutral and then try to start the car. There is a part called the Park/Neutral Starter Switch that could be failing.
The starter relay is the least likely part to be causing the problem, but you can't rule it out, either. It is located under the hood in the IPDM (Intelligent Power Distribution Module) that is behind the passenger side headlight. See page 23 in the link for the component layout of the IPDM.
http://boredmder.com/FSMs/Nissan/Maxima/2004/PG.pdf
The way to test if the ignition switch is working is to check for 12 volts on 2 wires in the IPDM. Locate connector # E119 In the diagram it is on the lower left side of the diagram. It is a 4 wire connector. Using your voltmeter, connect one lead to ground and the other lead to pin 4, a black with red stripe wire. This wire comes from the ignition switch, so it should have 12 volts when you turn the key to the START position. If it does not get 12 volts, you have an ignition switch problem.
If you do get 12 volts and the starter doesn't crank over the engine, move the voltmeter probe to pin # 3 of connector E119, a black with white stripe wire. This pin is the 12 volts coming out of the relay and going to the starter solenoid. If you don't have 12 volts, then you have either an IPDM of a relay problem.
If you have 12 volts at pin 3 and the starter isn't cranking, you have a starter problem. Maybe it is the solenoid, maybe it is the motor, maybe it is the ground. You asked if you could replace the solenoid. Yes you could, but not all places sell the solenoid by itself. They want you to buy the whole starter.
Last edited by DennisMik; Jan 6, 2017 at 10:54 PM. Reason: added wire colors