Oil leak upper pan
#1
Oil leak upper pan
Hello I’m new,but I have a 2007 maxima and I have a oil leak coming from upper pan,only problem I’m have is that da upper pan won’t drop everything is pull down r out but I’m struggling pulling that upper oil pan down
#2
There are two longer bolts at the front of the engine that need to be removed that are inside the upper oil pan and accessible only by removing the lower oil pan. You really need a factory service manual to be doing this kind of work,
#3
Thanks
I got it down but my oil leak is seeping right above that like right behind the alternator and I can’t get to it,I’m just gonna try and seal that area and see what that do r any suggestions
#4
Could the leak be coming from the valve cover above the alternator? I would do my best to check the area. If it was the valve cover, the alternator would be covered in oil. Let me know what you find. I'll do my best to help. Post some pictures of where you're at.
#5
Oil leak
#7
#8
Oil leak
When everything is put together behind the ac compressor is where I seen oil running down the back wall,so I took everything loose and discovered fresh oil in that area so I really can’t get to it so I just seal around that area
#13
appreciate your time so I just kinda seal the area hope it works out I’ll give update wen finish but thank you again sir very much appreciated
#14
Well that's ok, not really important right now. Pick up a funnel when you can for this job. I would focus on these steps:
1) Clean that entire area the best you can with Gunk and whatever else. Make it spotless.
2) Scrape every bit of gasket material from block and pan mating surfaces. Get a drill and one of these if you can:
3) Use Ultra Grey RTV and new front and rear half-moon seals. Also replace the two O-ring oil pump seals. Mine were red from the factory.
4) Follow the FSM instruction for re-installation of the upper and lower pans.
5) Put the car back together, fluids and all and run it for a bit while it's up in the air so you can watch it from underneath.
If all looks good then you are done. I still wonder how that leak developed between the upper pan and the block, if that is indeed the source? Was there work done to the car before? Was the upper pan removed for some reason?
You're already in this pretty deep. Take your time and do good work. This is a big job you are doing!
1) Clean that entire area the best you can with Gunk and whatever else. Make it spotless.
2) Scrape every bit of gasket material from block and pan mating surfaces. Get a drill and one of these if you can:
3) Use Ultra Grey RTV and new front and rear half-moon seals. Also replace the two O-ring oil pump seals. Mine were red from the factory.
4) Follow the FSM instruction for re-installation of the upper and lower pans.
5) Put the car back together, fluids and all and run it for a bit while it's up in the air so you can watch it from underneath.
If all looks good then you are done. I still wonder how that leak developed between the upper pan and the block, if that is indeed the source? Was there work done to the car before? Was the upper pan removed for some reason?
You're already in this pretty deep. Take your time and do good work. This is a big job you are doing!
Last edited by User1; 06-11-2020 at 04:56 PM.
#16
Oil leak
Well that's ok, not really important right now. Pick up a funnel when you can for this job. I would focus on these steps:
1) Clean that entire area the best you can with Gunk and whatever else. Make it spotless.
2) Scrape every bit of gasket material from block and pan mating surfaces. Get a drill and one of these if you can:
https://www.amazon.com/Goodson-3M-Ro...%2C178&sr=8-10
3) Use Ultra Grey RTV and new front and rear half-moon seals. Also replace the two O-ring oil pump seals. Mine were red from the factory.
4) Follow the FSM instruction for re-installation of the upper and lower pans.
5) Put the car back together, fluids and all and run it for a bit while it's up in the air so you can watch it from underneath.
If all looks good then you are done. I still wonder how that leak developed between the upper pan and the block, if that is indeed the source? Was there work done to the car before? Was the upper pan removed for some reason?
You're already in this pretty deep. Take your time and do good work. This is a big job you are doing!
1) Clean that entire area the best you can with Gunk and whatever else. Make it spotless.
2) Scrape every bit of gasket material from block and pan mating surfaces. Get a drill and one of these if you can:
https://www.amazon.com/Goodson-3M-Ro...%2C178&sr=8-10
3) Use Ultra Grey RTV and new front and rear half-moon seals. Also replace the two O-ring oil pump seals. Mine were red from the factory.
4) Follow the FSM instruction for re-installation of the upper and lower pans.
5) Put the car back together, fluids and all and run it for a bit while it's up in the air so you can watch it from underneath.
If all looks good then you are done. I still wonder how that leak developed between the upper pan and the block, if that is indeed the source? Was there work done to the car before? Was the upper pan removed for some reason?
You're already in this pretty deep. Take your time and do good work. This is a big job you are doing!
#17
i believe it was took down before cuz da seal was caked up like they used two bottles of silicone but they probably didn’t take it down correctly like fsm said do and cuz that leak I’ma make sure everything by valve covers r good but If the leak is coming from upper pan and block what I need to do at this point?
What you need to do at this point, is just put it back together! Replace the seals I mentioned, get some Ultra Grey (get the squeeze tube, don't bother messing with the caulk tube) and follow the FSM section on upper and lower pans.
I numbered the approach I would take in the above post.
#18
Oil leak
Ah, so it's been worked on. Makes sense. But now I would want to know why?
What you need to do at this point, is just put it back together! Replace the seals I mentioned, get some Ultra Grey (get the squeeze tube, don't bother messing with the caulk tube) and follow the FSM section on upper and lower pans.
I numbered the approach I would take in the above post.
What you need to do at this point, is just put it back together! Replace the seals I mentioned, get some Ultra Grey (get the squeeze tube, don't bother messing with the caulk tube) and follow the FSM section on upper and lower pans.
I numbered the approach I would take in the above post.
#20
It would make sense that your leak is coming from that corner. If someone previously had the pans off for whatever reason and botched the re-installation, that would be the area most susceptible to poor workmanship. A leak on any corner of the upper pan would be relatively profuse, as the crank case is under quite a bit of pressure. Any weakness in the upper pan and block seal would be a big deal.
The only other place I can think it would be coming from in that area is the front timing cover in the lower/affected corner. Do we know it the front timing cover has been off? The RTV in your pic looks factory.
The only other place I can think it would be coming from in that area is the front timing cover in the lower/affected corner. Do we know it the front timing cover has been off? The RTV in your pic looks factory.
#21
It would make sense that your leak is coming from that corner. If someone previously had the pans off for whatever reason and botched the re-installation, that would be the area most susceptible to poor workmanship. A leak on any corner of the upper pan would be relatively profuse, as the crank case is under quite a bit of pressure. Any weakness in the upper pan and block seal would be a big deal.
The only other place I can think it would be coming from in that area is the front timing cover in the lower/affected corner. Do we know it the front timing cover has been off? The RTV in your pic looks factory.
The only other place I can think it would be coming from in that area is the front timing cover in the lower/affected corner. Do we know it the front timing cover has been off? The RTV in your pic looks factory.
#24
I just put everything back together so for as the oil leak it like good I just gotta get back under there and tighten my exhaust r something but far as the oil it looks good just been getting a lot of rain the past few weeks down here in New Orleans but I appreciate you guys through it all thanks....and another thing that I’ve seen was at the top ah Lil oil caked up so ima replace all that round valve cover too once I get a chance.
Last edited by Jamaal Rogers; 07-23-2020 at 04:50 AM.
#27
#28
#29
#31
that's what I’m thinking But I just learned that they’re gaskets round timing so I’m thinking I have to change all that but it’s gaskets and getting to it.well it look like it’s a lil less work then that upper pan.....just gotta loosen motor mounts and jack it up high as I can and work from there
Last edited by Jamaal Rogers; 07-25-2020 at 12:21 PM.
#32
#33
Hopefully he can get it sorted quick. You did a good job though. It certainly could have been an upper oil pan leak and you did that job yourself. That's a crazy big job and most people wouldn't have even thought about trying it. So congratulations, you're crazy!
#34
Question I have a 2007 maxima we would my motor fit in a 2006 r a 2008 maxima S L???
![](https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/maxima.org-vbulletin/2000x1504/d3344161_2728_4510_b2af_52301d8f61a0_07b70459a905e37f5112c75abf135f4cdc63d2d3.jpeg)
![](https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/maxima.org-vbulletin/2000x1504/11484d16_621b_43dd_a668_ca2346add0e8_f5eda4900da3c067b704f441d68e7b07c145bf69.jpeg)
Last edited by Jamaal Rogers; 07-26-2020 at 11:39 AM.
#36
only if da guy sell it for cheap I heard da motor going bad r it’s bad but I told him to take da motor I just want da body he to me make an offer I’m not trying to pay over $800 for it ima offer him $500 and see where it goes from there
#38
I appreciated everything but my uncle told me move I don’t know what I doing so he bout to tackle it all and I will help down da line but everything will is that ok from here I believe thanks again