I've searched through numerous threads. My son picked up an 07 Maxima 3.5 Auto a few weeks back. Has 162k on the odo. Car has been doing great, other than the headlights acting weird a time or two. While driving on i75 last sunday morning, the car died. He coasted to the side of the interstate, and of course, was on a bridge and could only get about 3 feet off the whiteline.. Would crank and crank and wouldnt fire at all. Called rollback and got it home (thankful for AAA!). Fuel pump is kicking in. I pulled the codes, there was no recent codes, best I can tell, but there was a Po340 logged (rear cam sensor). I replaced that sensor to start with with no change. Pulled a couple of the plugs and It isn't getting spark, Well it may spark ONCE and then no more. Couple tries later, It may spark again. Same scenario on 3 different plugs. Can smell some fuel on the plugs best I can tell.
*Security light in not on while cranking at all, green key lights on dash when pushing in the ignition switch. Goes red for a second, then goes away while cranking (from what i've seen this is all normal)
*Tried with the little key inside the fob, no change.
*Fuel pump is definately working at least at the pump output, verified by pulling output line.
*Checked all fuses.
*Pulled crank sensor and tested according to the manual. Two of the three pins were showing open with my meter. According to manual, its bad. Got excited, replaced Crank *sensor, no change.
*The new one did test correctly by the way. Swapped front cam sensor also, no change.
*Swapped ECM relay with the light relay. no change.
*I have cleaned all ground contacts underneath battery box. No change.
*Cleaned grounds on passenger side top of motor. no change.
*unplugged ECU and reseated connectors. no change.
*have 12v to coils with key on
*Have 12v to injectors with key on
*coils have continuity to ground
*The the other 2 leads at the coil are showing a little voltage while cranking. 2 volts or so
*Looking for input of course. Leaning ECM

 

Test your battery. If it's weak, then it means the alternator killed it. Replace or recharge battery, start car and proceed to test the alternator.
Then look at MAF and/or MAF connection

 

thanks for the reply. The battery is reading good. I charged it also because I cranked it low after a while. Even tried with booster to be sure. When it died on the interstate, it was pretty sudden with no dimming or anything.

 

Looks exasperating. You said you pulled no codes. Did you use a tool with the capability to scan beyond the ECM?

 

[QUOTE=Costee;9229153]Looks exasperating. You said you pulled no codes. Did you use a tool with the capability to scan beyond the ECM?[/QUOTE

i have a pretty simple code reader actually. Almost seems like a ground problem but not found one yet.

 

Could be a ground issue, meaning electrical. But if it had some connection with the ECM it should have registered in your tool as U1xxx. Without a complete scan, the other thing that comes to mind is the IPDM.

 

Yes I’ve been studying on the ipdm as well. I just wish it would throw me a code of some sort when it just crank and cranks and doesn’t start. Like I say, oddly, I might see one spark every few cranks right at the beginning then nothing. So it’s getting signal for a split second...at times. The car was running perfect until it just died at 70mph without warning. The lights on the dash came on (as in key in the ON position) of course.

 

I'm sure a code is registered, but your tool is unable to read the affected module.

 

You said the "headlights acting weird a time or two." That's controlled by the IPDM. Maybe something's just not right with it.

 

Thanks. Good point.

 

That's what made me think and say failing alternator.

I've also seen a bad fuel pressure regulator shut a maxima off while drive, and not restart; but it had no ill effects on the headlights acting weird.

 

Sooo the 340 is gone? What did you replace the sensor with?

Are you sure you have no codes right now?

My 4th gen (As far as you're concered treat my 4th gen as a 2006 Maxima) doesn't have an alternator right now... I move it around in my driveway with no prob... Even with a weak battery.

As for your spark test, you're just leaving a coil plugged in with a spark plug out of the motor? This is a good test, if you pick the right coil and position it correctly you can keep an eye on it while cranking, should be sparking while cranking, if not we need to find out why... Which is why i go back to the code question....

As for injectors... Hell you can remove the upper manifold and leave the whole thing off (maf unplugged) and it should fire over and maybe idle... But at a minimum get a nice fire ball show from all 6 cylinders.

 

Yes. No codes. Maybe my reader is too simple. I replaced the rear cam sensor with a new one. Have also replaced the crank sensor and other cam sensor new.....Yes I pull the plug outta the passenger front and insert into the coil and test spark there at the ground area (so i can see while cranking). again sometimes may get one single spark initially, then nothing...usually nothing at all. When I pull the plug, it has fuel on it. And I know the pump is definately operating. Thanks!

I have Ground continuity for all grounds i can access, including the one near the ECM, which is the ground for the coil system and the ECM. Have continuity (0.00 Ohms).
Again, I have 12v to the coils. The coil signal line, hard to tell how much as I read it needs and o-scope to read.

 

Soooo these cam and crank sensors are OEM?

 

No they arent oem. I did the test on them according to the FSM and they test ok, but funny I was just reading on the Hitachi when you replied. Wondering if I should remove them and order Hitachi for all 3? Before I dig deeper

 

Always good to have oem sensors, but I have my doubts if these (oem or not) are the culprits in this case.

 

Wel I removed the 3 oreilly sensors and ordered the hitachi’s from rock auto. Be here Tuesday, I have doubts on it but I wanna rule that out. Have read of people chasing their tail for a while on a bum new sensor. Honestly the price was about the same. Will update Tuesday.

 

Installed the 3 Hitachi sensors, No change. Thankfully I wasn't too optimistic. I have voltage to the injectors and the coils (12V) and have a good ground to the coils. With key on, the coil has its 12v supply and has continuity to the ecu through the signal line. During Cranking: the signal line at the coil shows .13 volts. According to the manual, this is correct, but maybe a multimeter isn;t reading correctly. Fixing to go grab some plugs (if all the plugs killed out, that would be crazy).....I unwrapped the little condenser thingy and checked resistance. It started it off about 500k then quickly rose past what my meter would read (which is only 2Meg). So get the OL message. Anyone know if that sounds correct? Also, is there a way to verify the computer is signaling the coil to fire? Its pin 81 for coil 2, I will check that one if possible. Still thinking ECU, but wanna be pretty sure as I will have to haul to dealer to get the replacement ECU programmed before I can even try to start it. I appreciate all the help.



Also, another note: the tach doesnt move while cranking. Don't know if it is supposed to though.

 

EDIT: Installed new plugs in the front bank. They arent sparking either. I'm trying to figure out what kind of voltage the coil signal should be while cranking. The FSM just says 0-.3 at idle, and .1-.6 at 2500rpm....not sure if cranking should be different. Again, I don't have a scope, just a multimeter and it shows about .13 volts while cranking on the signal line at the coil......

 

Well still no luck. I have a used ecu coming. Guess I’ll be towing to the dealer to program it. . Just can’t seem to narrow anything down. Unless all coils went bad at once. And I can’t see that’s happening.

when checking ground continuity, back to battery -, for instance, the grounds on top of the motor, it had 0.00 ohms, but when I cycle key on it jumps to 25 or 30 ohms. This happens on pretty much all grounds including the ground at the crank sensor wire and such. Is that normal? Maybe it is but can’t find info on that.

 

Well, you have an interesting and uncommon problem. Hopefully when you get it fixed you report back the cause/fix.

 

Ok, so I have a question. When the key is on, I can hear an electrical hum and its coming from the transmission pan. Its not very loud but I got under the car and thats definatley where its coming from. I beginning to wonder if something is shorted and its causing the ground to be wonky, thus affecting the spark. I realize I'm grasping at straws. I did check all my other vehicles and the ground points stay at 0.00 ohms back to the battery negative even with key on or running.....this car is 0.00 everywhere with key off, but once key comes on it jumps to 20-30 ohms back to battery. Thus i'm wondering about this little hum?????TCM problem??

maybe just maybe someone has a car like this and can see if there is a faint tranny pan hum with key on...I pinpointed with stehoscope.

 

run two new grounds from tranny bell housing bolts to the battery. One from the starter side/starter, and another one from the other side. Gauge of wire doesn't matter.

Have you had any transmission work done? or all original?

 

Not that I’m aware of, we’ve not had the car all that long.

 

Well, Tried a new coil for the fun of it. It won't spark either. Again, I have 12 volts on supply, ground is correct, (well until key is on, more below...and my digital multimeter shows .14 volts at the trigger line while cranking.....but makes no spark, so confusing. (even with the new plug and coil). something weird going on. I mean if the computer is sending a trigger, shouldn't the coil fire? and confirms the ECM is doing its thing, and the new crank sensor is sending signal>>>>>
**I AM ALSO GETTING .2 VOLTS ON THE GROUND LEAD OF THE COIL WHILE CRANKING. THIS MAY BE CORRECT THOUGH

Theres a couple questions I would love to find an answer to! Or if anyone else can confirm.

1. Back to the grounds, I get 0.00 ohms from negative battery terminal to ground (ignition off), GOOD! But, turn on the key to run position: the same ground measurement jumps to 21 ohms or so. Can anyone confirm this? Not sure if, once current is applies, the ohms are affected.

2. Still curious about the electrical hum from the transmission pan with the key on. (My mind says theres something shorted, throwing my ground wonky) anyone have this noise??
looking at the FSM, there is a step motor in the transmission pan area. I was checking ohms on that step motor at the TCM harness. There are four leads (attaching pic). The leads are each supposed to test 15 ohms to ground, and 30 across the 2 sets. I have 30 correctly across. BUT>>>>I'm only reading 3-3.1 ohms to ground across every lead?????Maybe it's shorted, humming and throwing me out of whack...I have no idea....

 

ARe you positive NATS hasn't been activated?

 

yes. There is no indication of it. The security light behaves correctly.
It just makes no sense. coil has voltage, ground, and trigger voltage at crank. How can it not spark?? Thanks

 

Well, for ****s and giggles, if you have a second key, try it.

I would re-check all fuses and relays both in the car and the engine bay. Just don't look at the fuses, test them.

 

First off, I appreciate your responses. I have checked fuses manually. Can check again. And as far as Nats, I do get a single spark every so often. So not sure that would cause it. He Don’t have a second key, unfortunately. Not had the car but a month. When it died, it was instant on the interstate. Idk. May have to take to dealer to see if they can diagnose it. Just hate to have to load it and haul it. Lol.

 

I have a 2004 Maxima with the same issue you’re having. The car died suddenly on the interstate and will not restart. Did you get any answers?

 

A little update: Had a mechanic come look yesterday. He says he believed it has jumped time. Says the cam sensors won’t read correctly and throw off the spark. Compression test on the front cylinders showed #2 at 0, #4@60( unchanging), #6 @ 15. What’s the chances valves are bent?

 

Update:
Confirmed that it jumped time. Causing no spark.........retimed and checked valves. Multiple valves are bent. So.....gonna find a used motor. Thanks for all yalls input!!!

 

Thanks for the update, although a bad one. Did the mechanic give a reason of why it jumped time?

 

tensioner wore. He said didn't look like the chain had ever been done. Although PO said it had. Oh well. Win some. lose some.
Now to figure out compatible year models. awfully confusing. most say 02-07 fits. Then the vin search say 07/08.

 

OK so I recently had a thread trying to figure out the problem with my sons 07 Maxima.Well we did come to find out that it needs a motor. Well not necessarily needs a motor but it bent the valves so that’s the route we are going to go. I have read until I’m blue in the face trying to figure out direct compatible year models. I think the conclusion I figured out is that the 07 /08 has a different opinion than the 04-06. Otherwise it’s the same. I think....can anyone confirm that. I have found an 05 with decent mileage, but I just needed to know if the oil pan (or anything else) will have to be swapped. I think it’s due to the cvt models (starting with 07) having a different size oil pan. I don’t care a bit to read and checked out the all about motors section. But I just can’t come to a conclusion. Car-part.com shows compatible as 07/08. Then many other threads say 04-07.

 

Yes, the oil pan size/shape compatibility is for 07/08. It's different ON 2004/06. Thus the part number for the short engine (which incorporates the oil pan) on the 07/08 is 10102-ZV0CV, while for the 04/06 it's 10102-ZV0MU.

 

thanks so much! That’s the info I was looking for. So is that the only difference? Intakes and all the same I guess.

 

Yes, so far as the block configuration is concerned.

 

*if you find this from a search then this motor fitment applies to all transverse nissans on the list below*

Im not sure of car-part has updated thier motor fitment but here you go.....

if you keep your original upper intake manifold and upper oil pan you can use a motor from the following.... Doesnt matter what transmission...

02-08 Maxima
02-06 Altima 3.5
04-09 Quest
03-07 Murano

*** below this pertains to a 2007 maxima only***
The only direct drop in for a 2007 car is the 07/08 maxima but unless youre just trying to fix to sell it immediately I wouldnt just drop a used motor in.... Id take the time and do all the gaskets id regret not doing later and check everything over which requires taking the oil pan off anyways.....

Also i believe the 05-07 murano may drop in.... Maybe.... Im just guessing.

 

[QUOTE=Kris Terry;9230241]OK so I recently had a thread trying to figure out the problem with my sons 07 Maxima.Well we did come to find out that it needs a motor. Well not necessarily needs a motor but it bent the valves so that’s the route we are going to go. I have read until I’m blue in the face trying to figure out direct compatible year models. I think the conclusion I figured out is that the 07 /08 has a different opinion than the 04-06. Otherwise it’s the same. I think....can anyone confirm that. I have found an 05 with decent mileage, but I just needed to know if the oil pan (or anything else) will have to be swapped. I think it’s due to the cvt models (starting with 07) having a different size oil pan. I don’t care a bit to read and checked out the all about motors section. But I just can’t come to a conclusion. Car-part.com shows compatible as 07/08. Then many other threads say 04-07.[/QUOTE