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Security indicator lamp solid red

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Old Dec 22, 2021 | 02:45 AM
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Alex Vellmure's Avatar
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Security indicator lamp solid red

05 maxima sl when I arm the alarm, the red light in the middle of the dash stops blinking and stays on solid also I've noticed that if I don't disarm the alarm, by morning the battery goes completely dead been at it for weeks now and cannot figure out what the cause is. if anyone has any tips or could start me off in the right direction I would sure appreciate it. Thanks all.

Last edited by Alex Vellmure; Dec 22, 2021 at 11:18 PM.
Old Dec 22, 2021 | 11:19 PM
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Its stock alarm. I'm going to get under the dash here in a few and check wiring.
Old Dec 23, 2021 | 07:59 AM
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Sounds like to me that you have some form of a parasitic draw on the system.

Have a watch of this video. Electrical issues tend to always be a bit of work. However, the upside is that you should be able to narrow it down to what is pulling power following the process in this video.

Old Dec 23, 2021 | 10:04 AM
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So I just found that if I lock the doors with the remote the light goes solid as well and if left overnight battery will die but if I manually lock all the doors one by one the light flashes and battery will be fine. It's only if I use the remote to to lock doors and set the alarm.
Old Dec 23, 2021 | 10:07 AM
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Weird...sound s like whatever is the electrical component that deals with looking the doors remotely is the culprit.

I have not idea what or where that thing is. Hopefully someone else will come in and give you some direction.
Old Dec 23, 2021 | 01:37 PM
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Seems the remote system is stuck on the pre-armed phase. The remote signal is controlled by the BCM, and it would appear the concerned circuit is malfunctioning. This prevents the BCM from going to sleep, thus draining the battery. Check the BCM harness for proper connection. If all checks right, you'd probably require another BCM.
Old Dec 23, 2021 | 06:11 PM
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Originally Posted by Costee
Seems the remote system is stuck on the pre-armed phase. The remote signal is controlled by the BCM, and it would appear the concerned circuit is malfunctioning. This prevents the BCM from going to sleep, thus draining the battery. Check the BCM harness for proper connection. If all checks right, you'd probably require another BCM.
And to replace would require a reflash/reprogram? I have just tore down each door panel and found that previous owner attempted to install universal door lock actuators and failed miserably which explains why the two back doors would not unlock or open at all so finally replaced all 4 with oem actuators and so thats been corrected trying to diagnose bcm issue mentioned
Old Dec 23, 2021 | 11:02 PM
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It's the mod that's preventing the BCM from going to sleep. The BCM is therefore probably still ok. Parts and wiring connections have to be returned to specs. Since you have replaced the door actuators, check also the trunk lock actuator. If it comes down to replacing the BCM, all that's necessary is reprogramming the key(s).
Old Dec 24, 2021 | 12:15 AM
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Originally Posted by Costee
It's the mod that's preventing the BCM from going to sleep. The BCM is therefore probably still ok. Parts and wiring connections have to be returned to specs. Since you have replaced the door actuators, check also the trunk lock actuator. If it comes down to replacing the BCM, all that's necessary is reprogramming the key(s).
Thanks ive been breaking out all my diag tools from the MM to the test light to the power probe like for example, the washer motor is not working I check fuse, have switched power at the harness power probed the motor and it is functional. Its going to take some time but im determined .
Old Dec 28, 2021 | 11:15 PM
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Got everything back to stock lock actuators on all doors trunk release is oem and problem is still on going
Old Dec 28, 2021 | 11:23 PM
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There is only a parasitic draw when I arm the alarm if when I go to perform a test with the mm, will the alarm remain armed to be able to check?
Old Dec 29, 2021 | 01:03 AM
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Originally Posted by Alex Vellmure
There is only a parasitic draw when I arm the alarm if when I go to perform a test with the mm, will the alarm remain armed to be able to check?
Identify the fuses(s) causing the drain. The system is controlled by two 10A fuses (#19 & #21) in the fuse box under the dash. Again, it'd be helpful if you could scan with a tool that could access the BCM.
Old Dec 30, 2021 | 11:11 PM
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Originally Posted by Costee
Identify the fuses(s) causing the drain. The system is controlled by two 10A fuses (#19 & #21) in the fuse box under the dash. Again, it'd be helpful if you could scan with a tool that could access the BCM.
okay here we go I got around to checking current draw on a fully charged battery and we were at like a 1.4 started pulling fuses in the dash and I get to the fuse labeled, "elec parts" 10A fuse and and dropped to .090 which is still probably a little high but found that part going back to pull more and see if any other components are troublesome
Old Jan 3, 2022 | 10:02 PM
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Found the culprit, I was test the connector pins on fuse junction block under dash and noticed a little box dangling right above the hood release lever and I pulled it out and it turns out to be a GPS tracking device so I removed it man I appreciate the tips. Happy New Year all! Thanks
Old Sep 28, 2024 | 07:13 AM
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Red security light stays on and drains the battery

I have a similar problem with my 2007 maxima. After I shut off the car and close the door the alarm beeps, in fast succession, for 20 seconds. If I walk away from the car with my fob, the red light stays on draining the battery. Even if I leave the fob in the car, it will still do the same thing and it kilsl the battery. Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
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