sorphin

I was using a Screwdriver, but that didn't help me, so i sharpened the tip of a wire hanger, and forced it through... Always go through the boot... @wope I actually found it all in the service manual, which variation of the audio system do you have? I have the monochome screen, not sure if the connections to the amp are the same yet, so i'll look in the manual and post them. I used taps bout 2 inches from the connector that's plugged into the amp. I use side taps, so my tap stays on the wire even when i get rid of the car, and the wires just plug into the connector with a spade? connector.. I'll post pics of what i'm talking about connector wise later tonight. (This is why i always grab the service manual of a new car)..

Llfe

iTrader: (5)

alrite...rewiring the power wire will have to wait until a sunny day appears...

i bought a pac soem-t 2 ch



all the wires on the side of the rca outputs

i kno how to wire from the stock subs to the pac...the questions i have are:

1) can i wire the yellow wire (+12 volt constant) to the amp where the power wire is going in? if not where would i wire it too?

2) the blue wire (remote-turn on for amp) goes to remote turn on the amp
(just making sure)

3) the blue/black wire (ground wire)...i'm going to ground where the amp will be grounded...or else can i ground it where the ground is on the amp itself?

Ghozt

I tried running the speaker power wire through the firewall like shown in the picture, but it goes through about an inch and then hits metal. i tried piping it upwards to see if i could see it in the engine bay but i could not find it at all. any idea which way i should be snaking it after pushing through the firewall, and any pieces i need to remove from the engine bay to be able to see/grab it?

Llfe

iTrader: (5)

u can't see it coming out of the firewall grommet...u need to remove the air intake box and reach behind and u will feel the wire or clothes hanger coming out...and then pull

Ghozt

part of my question is I want to make sure I have enough through so that my hand/clothes hanger can catch it. when inside the car, I can push my finger about an inch into the hole before I hit what feels like metal. Is that the piece that hides the gap back and to the right behind the intake?

when you say remove intake, is that completely necessary or does that just make it easier to grab? and you mean completely as in take it off all the way up to the intake manifold?

Llfe

iTrader: (5)

yes..."IT IS NECESSARY"...just the intake box...it's easy

i think the piece of metal you're hitting with your finger is probably the wheel well/strut...you can't see the clothes hanger come out...u have to reach behind the strut(hence take out the airbox to reach around the strut)

i angled the clothes hanger to the up and right direction because that points toward the engine from the firewall area

hopes this helps...the hardest problem for me was getting the clothes hanger through

perkman87

iTrader: (6)

Noice!

Ghozt

Ok great, thank you that is very helpful. Just wanted to make sure I wasn't taking out the intake for no reason and that I had punched through the firewall at least before looking for the other end of the wire/coat hanger. Again, thank you!

Ghozt

One more question for you. I poked through the firewall in the same location as demonstrated in the pictures the OP provided. If I push my finger in the hole and feel to the right I feel the rubber grommet, or at least something else large and made of hard rubber. Does that mean I "missed"?

Ghozt

Answered my own question...yes I missed. Used a screwdriver to push a hole through the grommet and got a wire hanger through it and I can see it in the engine bay. Won't need to remove the intake though at all to get this through.

Llfe

iTrader: (5)

congrats!!!....i had to remove mine...oh well

so which hole did u poke it through in the first place?

Ghozt

Looks like I had just poked through the carpet and that was it...lol

I ended up getting a screwdriver pushed through the rubber grommet, but after that things started going downhill...

I started my car, the "service engine soon" light is on. The climate control does not work, auto-telescoping of steering wheel does not work, power steering does not work, and I cannot shift out of park.

Does it sound like my dumbass severed a wire? Or could I have simply unplugged one of the many various plugs I see above the driver side footwell? Any ideas before I take this to Nissan and pay out of pocket for my idiocy...?

God damnit...

Llfe

iTrader: (5)

sorry to hear that...make sure that all the plugs are plugged in before you take it to nissan...were u careful when u made the hole or just rammed it through?

Ghozt

I was careful to push it in the same direction the wire bundle was going (so to avoid it) and my entry point looks like near the right edge of the grommet (1.5 inches away from the wire bundle). after that though I definitely had to use some force/twisting to push it through the rubber, which the OP said was to be expected.

checked the fuses just to be sure, they're fine. this sucks. ive done 3 amp installs on different cars before and never run into anything like this...

there are so many wires/connections above the pedals its hard to know if ive checked them all.

im wondering if i should mention this to Nissan so they can pinpoint the problem quicker. even though it would be admitting guilt to causing the damage...

Ghozt

this is stupid. okay so apparently there was some aftermarket remote start or something already on the car, and I either shorted a fuse or knocked something off. Nissan took off whatever this aftermarket mod was, reset the ECU, and everything is working again.

This is great news because it means I didn't tear any wires! For a minute there I felt pretty retarded. I am tempted to try pushing the wire hanger back through the same hole, considering that this aftermarket piece is gone now. Although it'd be stupid if I "shorted" the same thing again or whatever.

Any thoughts?

ifti_sit

iTrader: (3)

Hi guys, sorry to interrupt in between this discussion.

I recently hooked up 10 inch JL sub at the trunk with JL amp. The problem is from the rear seat the bass is coming more than the original audio sound. I realized the rear door speakers do not sound loud compared to fronts. may be fronts sound more because of the tweeters.
I checked the Bose amplifier specs and diagram but could not find any difference in power distribution between front and rear. Even I replaced the rear door spks with kickers but still they dont sound loud. Initially i thot may be rear door spks use higher impedance but this is not true. The amplifier somehow sends low signal as compared to the fronts. Any idea ?
I am planning to remove the rear bose stock subs and replace them with full range spks. These full range spks will get signal from the Bose Amp ( front spks signal ). Not sure how that will sound.

Car Addict

FYI, I believe the stock speakers are 1 ohm and most aftermarket speakers are 4 ohm. So that means the aftermarket speakers would receive 1/4th the amount of watts that the stock speakers would receive.

I think majority of the sound comes from the front because that's how bose meant it to sound. With a good soundstage you want the music to sound like it's coming from directly in front of you which is why most cars have the bass speakers towards the rear and full range speakers towards the front of the rear passengers and another set in front of the front passengers. Sound quality is subjective so some people might not like it that way which is understandable.

For the JL sub being too loud, you can turn the gain down until it blends in, also I would set the low pass filter at around 50hz-60hz, if it's not already. Another thing you could do is try disconnecting the rear deck speakers so all the bass is coming from the JL so they won't be competing with eachother.

ifti_sit

iTrader: (3)

Thanks for ur response.

I agree with ur statements.
I think its not only because of the 1 ohm and 4 ohm difference. Today I was doing some research sitting at the trunk itself. I took two kicker 4 ohm speaker - connected one with the front left and another with the rear left..i observe the difference. the front was not only loud but very rich ..the rear ones are basically for vocals but i think those are too low to make the erquired sound-stage. I took the signal directly from the Bose amp.

Anyways..i removed the bose 8 inch subs and placed kicker full range in that place. i rather took the front signal to feed them. Now from the passenger seat the voice and music is much more better. What i like is the sound localization factor. If u r able to locate the place from where most of the sound is coming - after few mins of listening u will get bored. and in my case, where at the trunk the additional subwoofer is doing its job -passenger will not hear the actual music. now its much better. The original Bose setup was good only with bose stock subs.

And yes - I do keep the LP filter around 60-80 HZ and gain almost 70% ( with bose u would have to incresase it that far )..

I am thinking of adding a capacitor as at 50 mph, i am getting whinning noise - probably from the alternator..not sure capacitor will do the trick or i need a better battery. my grounds are pretty good and i use ground loop isolator.

Ghozt

I got everything wired up using the Scosche FAI-3A, but for some reason the sound coming out of my amp/subs is very quiet. I hooked a portable DVD player with RCA outputs into my amp/subs to verify the they're working - they are. I have tried adjusting the gain ***** of the Scosche and they don't seem to be changing anything at all. I also tried all three settings the device has. Anyone else run into this? Did I get a dud of a Scosche unit?

Even though I have a BOSE system, I should still be able to use this to simply tap into two rear speakers and use the rear RCA outputs correct? I used Illustration B in the instructions to wire up the Scosche FAI-3A. I did notice that it said to use Illustration D for BOSE systems but I have no desire to wire this into anything other than two speakers to add subs to the system. If it's not capable of doing this I guess I have to send it back and get a higher quality LLC.

Also, what gauge wires should I be using for the speaker-level connections I'm tapping into? I used the same wire as my remote control wire since they fit into the tap-in connectors well together.

ifti_sit

iTrader: (3)

Dont use speaker level connection from the rear door speaker..they are mean to be little low and only mid ranges..use front instead..the best i would suggest tap the tire in the existing Bose woofer wire.They are mono so u can in any of the bose woofer and bridge into two inputs in ur amp.

the reason u r getting low signal is because its Bose. the stock spks are very low impedance speakers -hence signal from stock amp needs to be little less than normal . But if u take signal from woofer -its already low frequency and amplified.

Edit : btw in BOSE there's no need for low level converter. Technically cleaner approach but with BOSE - no difference.
The signal from Bose is neither low level nor high level. Thats the confusing part. Bazooka clearly mentioned on their website that use bose speaker signal directly into their amps low level input.

Ghozt

Strangest part about this, is it worked this morning and I saw the subs hitting. Went inside to get a screwdriver to adjust the Scosche, and now they're doing nothing whatsoever (amp has power, subs not hitting at all no sound coming from them).

So you're saying don't tap into any of the speaker connections on the wire harness going into the amp, but tap directly into the speaker wires going out to the two stock subs mounted in the trunk?

Car Addict

Yup. That's how mine is hooked up.

ifti_sit

iTrader: (3)

right.
here's the connection details :

From the HU the signal is fed into Bose amp which is mounted at the trunk.And from this AMP all the audio outputs are going like front -rear and sub. You can see the AMP has total 32 pin connector ( two separate one is 8 and another 24 ). That 24 connector has both the input ( from HU ) and output signals ).
As I said - if you tap into input signal - you wont get much bass. Tap into the output signal from the connector ( will be messy as the connector itself is very short and congested ). Rather take the connection from the speakers.

When i say speakers - preferrable is Woofer speakers. That way u will be sure ur only getting low frequencies. But you can try with front speaker signals too. Various amps ( after market ) may respond differently to front and woofer signals from Bose . So try them all for perfect signal.

My setup is simply - removed the stock Bose woofers and tap into the woofer wire. If u want to keep the stock subs - just tap into any of the woofers. Bridge ur Amp input to use only one signal ( from the bose woofer ).

Just FYI..u can even use the remote turn on signal from the Bose Amp. There's two position. ( one turning one the main amp and another turning on the subwoofer amp ).
That way u dont need to route the turn on signal from any fuse box.
I hope that helps.

You can refer to the below images for the connection diagram.



Overview

Ghozt

Thank you for this, your detailed explanation is greatly appreciated!

I did tap into the control wire from the amp wire harness, I downloaded the wire schematics from the service manual online which was quite helpful.

I'm adding my old off-brand 400 watt 2 channel amp, Monster battery cap, with 2 10" subs to the car, mostly I want to just get the wiring right so I can swap out later when I want to upgrade the amp/subs. For now I imagine I'll leave the factory subs connected and see what adding mine does, but may experiment with disconnecting them.

So far the amp powers on, remote wire works, seems to be grounded well (used a bolt under the rear seats in the car).

I'll tap-in to the bass speaker wires and see how that goes. Although part of me is convinced that my Scosche is broken because the Gain ***** just spin and spin and spin. I do need to use either the Scosche or a PAC LOC to convert the speaker level inputs to RCA for my amplifier.

Are amps that have speaker-level inputs good? I'm assuming it combines whatever is in the LOC with it?

ifti_sit

iTrader: (3)

LOC is a standard way and good way - i must say . But with Bose AMP its not necessary. If you have speaker level input in ur AMP - trust that.
JL/Kicker/Alpine or whatever AMP you have - they know better than Schoche when it comes to high level input vs low level.
You may have to turn the gain a little bit as the input signal will be little lower than normal stock AMP.

From my experience - if you are concerned about the rear passengers - they might complain about ur system setup as all they will hear is booom boooom..very less audio. The front spks are more powerfull than rear ( Bose Design ). This design is good if u r running on stock. but with 2 10 inch woofers hitting in the trunk -passenger will not hear anything other than bass. This is the reason i took the bose stock woofers from the rear deck and placed full range kickers. they filled the rear seat with sweet music. You will not notice any difference from the drivers seat.

I am just too kind enough for my passengers. After all - all your hardwork should be praised by all - not just you. i know it depends so just a FYI..

Ghozt

My current amp does not have speaker line inputs, so I'll probably just use my Scosche/a new PAC LOC until I upgrade my amp.

I like your comment about the rear sound/stock woofers - that makes a lot of sense. I was wondering why the hell when I panned my music to the front it was SO DAMN LOUD. I panned it mostly to the back to "even" it out in the car for me, it was weird having it all come from in front of you.

What size speakers did you put in place of the stock woofers? Would you mind providing the exact ones you got since they work so well?

Also curious how did you wire these in, did you simply tap in to the existing woofer wires coming from the stock amp? Or was it the front speakers you tapped into for that? When tapping into the front speakers where do you tap in at, the smaller harness coming out of the Bose amp?

I can definitely see replacing the back speakers being my next project. This is getting fun, especially with people who know exactly what they're doing to help give me advice. Anyone else LOVE this forum??

ifti_sit

iTrader: (3)

If u want to get a good quality..go for infinity kappa 6.5 inch full range..I had two kickers for replacing the door spks as I thot door spks are culprit.which is nt the case the signal from the amp is that way..those were like 40bucks frm amazon. .I got Amazon gift card frm my company and spent thr..I will pm u the model number.nt great one bt good and decent. .
I tapped the front signal connection from the bose amp connector.then set the fade effect to blend the music. When I hear it from back seat..I just smile myself

The settings and urge for great sound never ends..that's the problem.
Bose is good in inventing technologies but sometimes the price and output is not worth. .I admire their 1ohm spks and less than 2ohm 8inch subs-hardly anyone makes Like that.
they design using soundstage structure where the listener Will get the feel that everything is coming frim the front or stage. .and remember while that's great design u hv to take into consideration its a car..4 or 5 passrngers are sitting in different edges..its difficult to blend the same quality for all of them..sound quality is something which depends on personal. Taste.There's a standard but beyond that Doesnt matter what was suggested by bose or others.it's u who sud decide Whats the best..not bose.

Mlang2000

Just wanted to say thanks for this thread. I had the 4 gauge power cable through the firewall in minutes and have now added 500 watts of Kicker Solobaric to my system.

NickDallas

Thanks greatly for your post - I just installed the Basslink II into my 2010 Max. You were right - getting through the firewall was definitely a challenge. I finally managed to get everything installed and into its proper place and it sounds great.

Thank you for posting the pictures and providing the inspiration!

GarGar

I dont have a service manual for this car. My biggest concern is with the remote turn on lead and which wire that actually is. The speaker connections i can figure out. And the wiring diagram posted above must be too low resolution because when i zoom in on it i cant read it. If anyone can point me in the right direction it would be much appreciated.

Mlang2000

You do now...
http://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/Maxima/2010/

GarGar

You're a good man. Thanks!

rcdude1990

im having a hard time understanding the firewall part. i found all the wires and were it leads. it is surrounded by a silver colored rubber ring thing, i guess the boot you guys are talkg about. now did u put the snake inside the hole with all the other wires? did u do it to the side? im just lost. is there anyway to take the boot out? wat if i took a blade to the boot and just cut it? also i need to work backwars, i need to go from the hood to the driver seat, instead of the driver seat to the hood.

is there any other way of doing this? im really nervous about cutting a wire inside the boot.

Mlang2000

I poked a straight metal snake with a sharpened tip similar to a coat hanger through the rubber membrane into the engine bay. I then taped the wire to the snake and pulled it back through.

rcdude1990

now u mean u actually pierced through the rubber piece? or u went next to the wires that are currently there and went through with it? my wire is a blue colored wire, not to sure how much guage and stuff.... so ur saying a regular metal snake will make a wide enough hole?

also on my setup, in my previous car the guy set up a small switch that allowed me to turn the power on the subs when ever i liked. the switch was connected to a fuse under the dash. which fuse would it be? color? 9in my old car it was a yellow color wire, but i dont want to mess somthing up.)

i tried to test the subs, meaning i had the blue power wiring connected to my battery but the subs wouldnt power on, my capasitor was on and read 12.7 watts, but the amp was not on. so im guessing i need to wire that switch to see if it works.

i like to test the system out b4 i go through the major hassle of getting through the firewall, but right now i cant get them on

thanks in advanced for the help

Mlang2000

I pierced the membrane staying away from the other wires. You could add a switch to a remote lead from any ignition fuse.

You may want to just have this done by an experienced installer.

Oby20

Do any of you guys happen to know the color of the spiked wires? Reason why I'm asking is because a friend of mine is going to replace my stock radio for an App Radio 2 and we need to know the color of the spiked wires.

bgchz56

you can absolutely feel and hear the bass out of the trunk. I put a 8 inch sub in my trunk and it made my sound system perfect. The speakers have awesome highs and mids, and my sub brings in the lows. it sounds great

20_Maxima_10

Oh god. Buy a freakin harness dude. I could tell you the wire colors but don't let your friend just hack the wires off please. Spend $20 and have a clean install. and two, i wouldn't let my friend install a stereo in my car if they don't know how to find the wires himself. my 2 cents.

Oby20

Thanks for the Info. I'm new to all this so I didn't know that a harness would resolve my problem. My friend knows how to install radios he just didn't use the speaker wires when he did his installation because he changed all the speakers and ran new wires. Thanks