After posting some pics in another thread, some people have warned me that I might have frame or other issues after my rear-end collision. What do you guys think? And what should I do?

 

how much for the wheels

 

What did the insurance company and/or body shop say?

hahahahaha

 

A good insurance company will check for frame damage.

If I were you, I would insist on a frame check. The impact was so large, it may have pushed your right rear wheel forward.

I've read in other threads that a severe frontal impact can cause the rear axle to move forward. This is because of the huge inertia of the axle and wheels.

Good luck!

 

I wouldn't go so far as to say screwed simply because you have full coverage and if you were screwed then you will be unscrewed and then happy to have been screwed up in the first place(new car). To clarify if the damage is significant the adjuster will make a determination based on value to damage. From what I can see in the pictures you have roughly $2000 in parts plus some misc items I missed and adding 15% for missed items and mark up $2879. You will also have at least 4-6 hours of frame time needed or not at an average of $75 per hour=$450. Paint and materials,clean up prep, detail etc, 950. Adding in labor your grand total is $9000 give or take few hundred. The repair should take at least 3 weeks if all the parts can be sourced in time. Given you are driving a 35k+ vehicle the chances of a total loss are slim. Unless the accident was near the gas tank then you may have a case. Keeping mind that I over estimated on some areas you should be in the ball park. Oh that includes your deductible. Let me know how I did.

 

make sure to have your insurance company go after depreciation. If/when they repair the car, the car will be worth less than before. You should not have to cover that loss, the insurance company of the hiter is responsible

 

Good point and don't CARFAX report. That will always drop the value since you filed a police report and from NJ in you license plate the report will be very accurate about damages unlike NY where they would only list rear impact bumper on the report. BUT before you get upset and panic, plan on enjoying the rental and if you can find a enterprise rental location they have Maximas in their fleet. Ask yourself these questions.
1. Do I have everything I need from the car that matters to me besides my life?
2.When should I trade it in?
3.What color should I get next?

Once you have these questions answered I would start pricing out a new one. I don't like to drive cars that have been in any accident past the bumpers. It will always be a constant reminder of the damage and you will always find a flaw. If they pay for your depreciation you could use the money as a down payment and the carfax will not report until the claim is finalized so get to shopping.

 

Damn I hate seeing your car like this but it looks savable to me but alot of work hmm...im 50/50 kinda

 

Well the insurance company took a look at it the next day and the body shop estimated the cost of repairs at $7,000. It's supposed to be ready later this week which would make it about 2 weeks repair time.

The car is also a lease so how does that affect me as far as depreciation goes? Will there be problems when I go to turn the car in when the lease is up?

 

It has always been my experience than any car built in this millennium that receives a good thwack has a 50/50 shot at ever recovering 100%, no matter how. My friends Jetta (I know, poor comparison) wasn't damaged much differently, and even the dealership he bought it from gave it the thumbs up from the body shop, but he says it has never been the same.

 

Also, it is worth remembering you can (most likely) do nothing about the carfax report, which makes it not worth putting any real money into unless you truly want to keep it for your own desires.

 

yep the carfax report is out of your hands and once the police and insurance compaines are involved it's surely going on your carfax. If the other party had privatley agreed to pay for the damages then they would be no carfax.

 

As long as the repair is adequate, you have no worries.

I'm not sure what this "payout" on depreciation from the insurance is all about. Sounds like smoke up the pipe...never heard of something like that. Insurance company pays to fix property damaged, they won't pay for any preceived depreciation in addition...

 

You have no frame. Like most cars today, you have a unibody. They will put it on a big table and use hydraulic cylinders to pull the car back to original dimensions. Assuming a quality shop, they will measure it very carefully to make sure it's within spec.

After they are done you will surely want a four wheel alignment. If you are satisfied with the paint quality, there's no reason you shouldn't be good to go.

 

I just cringed. Im sorry man, good luck with everything, I hope shes okay for you after all this.

 

The car is fixable, just make sure you use a quality body shop! Sorry man!

 

Th the OP what was the body shop estimate, you should have one, as well as updates from the bodyshop, your not screwed, looks like all exterior body damage

 

Times have changed. A car with major repairs definitely has a reduced market value. This reduction in value should not have to be absorbed by the aggrieved party. You may have to insist that the difference in market value be paid by the insurer responsible, but that is a charge morally owed, and usually paid by auto insurance companies today. State Farm has adjusters who make the estimate of reduced market value, and I'm sure all major insurers do the same.

 

Thanks for all the help, guys. I feel a lot better now and all I can do is hope for the best. I should be picking it up either tomorrow or Thursday so I'll keep you updated and post all the details, and maybe some pics.

 

fully examine the repair. Look at fit and finish, gaps in body panels being consistent, paint colors are the correct shade, the body panels have the correct wave (or lack thereof), make sure the car rolls and stops 100%, check alignment when driving

 

Well I'm glad to hear it will be done sooner than later and I gave it a good estimate. We all should have learned something very valuable here,never offer to pay for damages. Can you imagine thinking that that repair was a $1000 or so only to get the $7000+ bill. WHEW!

Please post pics when done.

 

I had to bring in help on this, so I could be 100% accurate. I received this from my BiL, who's an attorney for State Farm. I asked him a quick question on this subject, here is his response verbatim...I think it reads: "You're wrong", at least in FL

(MVA means Multi-Vehicle Accident if I recall)

 

That sounds sort of like the way auto insurance used to be handled in Georgia. Actually, the wording in Georgia may still be similar to that, but we asked for and received an additional 'diminished value' amount when one of our trucks was broadsided and overturned by a Suburban driven by a woman on a cell phone. This may be at the discretion of the insurance adjuster; I really don't know. The woman had Allstate insurance on her Suburban.

One thing I DO know, the amount paid for diminished value on our truck was a paltry $214 (or very near that amount; memory is fuzzy, as this happened in '99), and I can guarantee the value was diminished by more than that. The frame was straightened three times before they got it right, one door was replaced, both 'west coast' style outside mirrors had to be replaced, one corner of the cab and one side of the bed had to be replaced, the entire truck had to be repainted, and our large stripes/logos had to be replaced twice before they were done correctly. The Ford body shop manager said the damage assessment was done incorrectly, and they lost a lot of money on our truck.

I seem to recall we found out about the 'diminished value' thing by hearing Clark Howard discuss it on WSB radio in Atlanta back around 1998.

 

Well there you go...it wasn't a huge impact. I negotiated a point on a 95 Continental when it was totaled. Had brand new tires, several brand new suspension parts (air ride), totaled an easy $3200 or something like that in bills that were under 6 months old. So the insurance company upped their original offer by $750. I still took a huge loss, but at least I got a little more out of the deal. It wasn't for diminished value, just raising the market value of the car for the total payout.

 

Yes. Despite rules, etc, we have found we have been able to negotiate very well with our State Farm agent. They do have a little leeway in their actions. Of course I have been with State Farm since 1958, and have multi-auto, homeowners, long-term care and an umbrella policy with them. We know the six folks that work in our agent's office, and often just drop in to pay our premium in person, because we want them to know and like us, just in case . . .

Few folks realize the great deal one can get in an umbrella policy. If you have a homeowners policy, for just a few hundred bucks per year, a multi-million dollar umbrella policy is available. That way, should you be sued because your horse threw a rider, or your cow got out and wandered into the path of a Mini-Cooper carrying three children, you won't be destroyed financially. I would suggest that anyone owning any sizable piece of property would be very prudent to consider an umbrella policy.

 

True...but don't tell anyone you have the coverage as you now have "deep pockets."

 

True. And for that reason, only State Farm and my wife know we have that coverage. I can mention it here because nobody on the ORG knows my name. Because of that umbrella policy, I will also have State Farm lawyers helping me. They won't kiss $3 mill goodby without a fight.

 

Just make sure when the car comes back from the body shop it looks like the day before it was hit, and then carry on, when the time comes to return the car to the lease company, don't say to much, sign the paperwork, and thats it

 

Yeah, but those mods have access to IP information, and could track you down easier they you think. I don't think they screen the Mods for background and credit, so chances are there's a guy out there right now trying to talk your cow out into the street...

 

they'll probably fix it and you'll have problems with it forever.

I'd fight like hell to get it totaled out.

 

NO chance, car's brand new, probably still valued at about $28,000, with less than 30% worth in repair bills...no way it will total.

And to be honest, I've seen far worse collisions like T-bones get straightened out to where you'd hardly notice anything was done on the car even when driving it. This isn't that bad of a hit, the only thing that could be at issue is the doors closing flush, trunk lid not lining up correctly. Of course, paint match is critical too here...

 

Gotta agree. Even at the $22,888 a dealer in Atlanta is now selling new 2010 base 'S' Maximas for, this damage will be less than a third of that. You just have to stay on top of this, tell those making the repairs that you will not accept anything but top quality work, and check every tiny detail before signing off on the work.

 

Sorry I haven't had a chance to post in a few days. Pick it up on Friday. Just a few minor things here and there that they fixed for me right on the spot.

Overall, I'm thrilled! They buffed and waxed the entire car. It looks brand new. I feel like it drives better than new as well. They said they did a unibody alignment. I looked over the receipt and they replaced an enormous list of parts, even parts I didn't even realize were damaged. The paint matching is absolutely flawless and you would never be able to tell that the car was in an accident.

Im so happy!

 

Welcome MAX!

 

over the years...I recommend just get it reaired and then sell or trade it for another car. They are never quite the same once they've been in a smack!

 

Its human nature. The quality may be OEM but the memory will never fade and as long as you saw it and lived it you will always remember the past.

 

Good for you buddy! Glad that it all worked out!
Pics?

 

That's awesome news!! Before/after pics!

 

There are wonderful repairs, and there are horrible repairs, and everything in between.

I would not rush to trade this car in just yet. Remember that, despite 'great deals' and 'real bargains', the dealer is not going to make a deal that causes him to lose money. It will always cost you to trade a car in. The only real decision is whether the deal is worth your cost.

First, immediately check the tread on all four tires for feathering, or any unusual wear. Remember what the treads look like, so you can check for unusual wear later.

Test the car thoroughly. Have someone drive it on an open road while you ride in a car behind and make sure the car tracks perfectly straight. Take it up to 70 MPH and be sure the ride is perfectly smooth. Be sure the steering wheel is 'on center', and that the car does not pull to either side when driving on level ground (remember that most roads are 'crowned' to help water drain off).

Check underneath the car with a strong light, and be sure everything looks just right. Look in the trunk in the area where the impact occured. Lift the trunk carpet/mat in that area, and check the metal trunk floor. check the operation of every light and bulb in that area of the car. Make sure all four doors open and close like new, and that the margins (width of cracks) around all four doors are uniform.

After giving the car a week or two so the paint is completely cured, turn a hose on and direct the stream all over that part of the car, watching for any trace of water in any lens, or inside the passenger compartment or in the trunk.

Finally, after having driven the car at least five hundred miles since the repair, recheck all four tires very carefully. They should look like they did immediately after the repair. If you see feathering, or irregular wear, something is not perfect.

But if your car passes all these tests, I would keep the car and enjoy the ride. Some repairs are actually done correctly.

 

Dude! Let's see some pics of the car after the repair! Hope it still rides new!