Thanks!

 

That's a crap load of work there buddy. I wouldn't have the patience lol.

 

RIGHT ON!!! I'm going to start planning on my build. Thank you SO much E!

 

I was doing a little tuning the other day, finally getting things set up properly. While I was at it I took a video with my camera phone. It really didn't come out that good but I think it's funny to see the camera phones lens get all jacked up by the sound waves coming off of that woofer. The worst part is that the mic on this camera phone is so crappy that even the intro section of this song has that scratchy sound to it... then the woofer comes on and you pretty much can't hear anything but the scratchy sound.

Next time I'll get my other camera out and do some videos for sound quality. I tried tonight with my camera phone but the resulting video sounded scratchy no matter what I did.

On with the show! The bass kicks in at about 23s and the camera phone starts glitching like crazy after that.

 

oh crap the side of that seat is vibrating like crazy

 

Just ordered a kenwood 9960 as soon as I get it (and make 15 posts) ill put up a thread. oh and i decided to go with two hifonics zx 150.4 amps. One to push 4x150 at 4 ohms and the other will push 2x600 at 4 ohms. Im jonesing to start this install!!!

 

A lot of that was the camera lens messing up, although Bass Mekanik definitely makes that Solo jump out of the box. That JL HD750/1 really moves that sub! I'm really happy with it. It wasn't a cheap amp, but the power output is rigid and really clean. It was definitely worth saving my money and waiting to get it!

Sweet! Sounds like you've got a lot of power there. Always good to have lots of power. I haven't heard anything about the new Hifonics amps but I think you'll enjoy it as long as the amps deliver as promised. Just make sure you buy from an authorized dealer in case you have problems.

Definitely start a new thread and show us what you're working with! I love to see new builds hit the forums. Never know when there's an idea that I might have to steal.

 

Thanks man I get the head unit tomorrow and the amps in a week. I am using woofersetc.com they are an authorized seller the equipment im installing. Im in WA and we don't have any good audio dealers so I cant get the Hifonics Amps or the CDT speakers I am going to get. But I do hear you on getting cheap crap I got screwed on some amps a couple of years ago.

 

ekrunch did you use a pacswix to retain your steering wheel controls? I just got my deck today along with the pacswix and it looks like I am in for a hell of a time...

 

All jokes aside, ditch the SWI-X. You'll go insane trying to program that thing. Get a Metra Axxess ASWC. It automatically programs itself to the Maxima's controls, hooks up with just two wires into the Maxima's harness and 3 more into your radio's harness, and they're listed on the Metra web site. Oh and it's firmware upgradable if it ever needs it.

Here's the link for the the '09 Maxima. There's a PDF link at the bottom. That PDF shows you exactly what wires in the Maxima harness to use, and where to connect them. It's a piece of cake man.

http://retailer.installationexcellen...8-6E57BC600BA5

You'll have to t-tap your factory harness right behind where you connect the aftermarket adapter harness. Then use spade lugs to connect the ASWC to your factory harness. I do all I can to avoid cutting the factory harness.

 

Here's the latest update.

- The PXA-H100 has been swapped for a PXA-H701/RUX-C701 combination. Couldn't pass up the deal!
- The CDA-117/KCE-400BT has been swapped for an IXA-W407. I got an AMAZING deal from my local car audio shop so I definitely had to jump on it. (Thanks again to Tito and Ray over at Ray's Audio)
- The dash kit had to be changed so I've decided to cover the new kit using vinyl cloth instead of stick on vinyl.
- I was out of room in the dash for the RUX-C701 so I had to fabricate a custom holder for it.

And so begins the next chapter in the quest...

Here's the frame that will hold the RUX-C701. I'm testing the width using a thin piece of birch and the back part of the flush mount kit.


Here's the lower dash piece. I had to cut it but it should be relatively easy to replace when it's time to sell the car.


The frame is coming together



Now a little fabric to put the fiberglass resin on


My best friend House did all of the glass work. This was the first time either of us ever worked with fiberglass so it's been a learning experience!



And here's the piece after the first layer of glass is on it

 

Now on to the good part, the new head unit! It's an Alpine IXA-W407 with Bluetooth. It's a multimedia controller unit with a USB interface that will control an iPod/iPhone as well as most standard USB players. My favorite part is that it also does video from the iPod and the iPod is completely controlled by the head unit so you can conceal the iPod wherever you'd like. I've also got a DHA-S690 DVD changer that's going in here as well.

Here it is, all mounted up and working. It was switched off when I did this photo, I'll get some action shots later.


And here I am, doing a little sanding on that first coat of fiberglass.


The test fit! This plate will hold my RUX-C701 controller so that I can watch the spectrum analyser.


This is after it's been sanded and had a few of the edges trimmed. The mounting holes are straight now and the flush mount kit fits properly.



Fiberglass coat #2 has been applied.


My friend House after his first fiberglass job.

 

And now for the moment you've all been waiting for, the finished product! Well, as finished as a car audio system really ever gets.

So here's the lead up to the install. More fiberglass, grinding, and then test fitting. Here's me going to work with the dremel and sand paper.




Success! It fits. Time to wrap it.




Here's House finishing up the wrap


Now it's time to trim it.


Trimmed and ready.

 

Done!


Now to install it.


Of course I dropped a screw...


Mounted and ready


Done!


And here's a few shots of it in action. The last time I installed a DVD player in a car, it was around 2001. The Fast and the Furious had just come out and I had the DVD in the car so it was what I decided to use again. Have to keep with tradition.

 

wow thats a sexy install i wish i could do work like that on my car

 

wow... thats talent and amazing job. am good with electronics but i dont think i would be able to pull what you just did to your max..

 

Been following this install for a couple weeks once I started reading it. Nice Job!

 

Thanks you gentlemen.

Dave, it's really not that bad. We learned a lot from the articles on http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com and htttp://www.caraudiomag.com

Kmoney, You'd be surprised what inspiration and boredom can do for you.

TintNinja, Thanks!

 

yea ill read up on those sites and see what i learn i really want to replace the interior speakers they play well but i want something louder and clearer so im building a system of what to get so far i have this.

Soundstream RBT.653

http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_...m-RBT.653.html

Soundstream SF-693T

http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_...m-SF-693T.html

Soundstream TWS.4 (2 pairs of this)


http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_...eam-TWS.4.html

Soundstream TRX2.440

http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_...-TRX2.440.html

let me know what you think and what i should add or is it a good or bad setup. i wanted to stick to one brand i didnt wanna have all different brands

 

i know what you mean. i got some nice idea for next year to do to my front lip.i just need to sketch it down and get the required parts. also i will be doing the PS3 setup too.
if i do decide to go your route, i will like the same custom radio dash kit you have .

 

Ekrunch good call on stevemeade site I have been reading it now for the last couple of days and I am considering redesigning my whole build. My wife is sooo pissed.....

 

Yo E, I thought you were reloacating the upper HVAC screen to use that slot for video...?? I am wanting to put a monitor in the upper slot and somehow relocate the HVAC somewhere else.

Either way, you guys are very talented!

 

Ekrunch I was reviewing the power wire ur using why did you only go 4 guage and are you putting that 4 guage to a distrabution? How much wire are you using Im about to purchase the materials to run my power wire and speaker wire and Im wondering how much I am going to need? I was thinking of runing 0 guage and if I cant through the fire wall I was looking at running under the car.

 

Here's my suggestion. Stick with what works best and don't worry too much about matching the amplifiers, speakers, and head units. Match RMS output power levels of amplifiers to RMS power handling of speakers, and make sure your radio has sufficient pre-amp output voltage to drive your amplifiers without you pegging the gain to the ceiling. You'll be fine after that. I do generally stay with the same speaker manufacturer for all of my mids & highs, but that's just because I go listen to something and like what I hear so I buy it. Take some time and go listen to some products, even if you don't like the store. When I started this game I was going to go all JL mids & highs but I ended up with Hertz because I went and listened to them!

If you're going to do rear speakers, spend your money on the front speakers. Front stage is the most important part. Rear speakers are just fill. I also wouldn't run a tweeter (or 2-way/3-way) in the rear to be honest with you. I didn't in my Accord, Civic, or Evo. They had just midrange speakers with no tweeters in the rear and it always sounded great. Adding tweeters in the rear moves the sound stage to the rear, and that's can be bad!

Now, on the the equipment you linked... I really can't recommend coaxial speakers in good faith, ESPECIALLY 3-way coaxials. The sound quality just isn't there. I'd have to advise against those and moving to an inexpensive component set from someone like Alpine, Pioneer, JL, Hertz, etc. Soundstream got bought out a few years ago and the products just haven't been the same sense. Granted, I haven't heard them since before the buyout, but I notice the car audio nuts on diymobileaudio.com are avoiding the new SS stuff like the plague. Probably for good reason! You might consider starting up a thread on DIYMA and just explain what you're trying to do and what your budgets are. I really haven't been around the industry in recent years to make solid product recommendations.

Sorry for the long winded post.

 

PS3 in the Maxima? Sweet! I'll bring God of War 3.

So I do have to say the fiberglass has been a rewarding experience. I've always wanted to work with it, but just never took the time to research and learn how to do it. I've been hanging out on DIYmobileaudio a lot lately and those guys are all over the fabrication work. Once I got the base system in I just wasn't happy enough with it, so I started upgrading and then the radio fabrication became necessary. I didn't want to ditch my H701's controller because I love the spectrum analyzer, but I was out of dash space so it was learn fiberglass or change the system again.

It'd be really cool to see some custom work done on the outside of the car too. (Not sure how familiar you are with fiberglass, so pardon these next few statements if you're already well versed) Do yourself a favor and do some test panels using wood and cloth first! Also, check into using bondo along with your fiberglass for strength. The pieces I've made are mostly cosmetic. They're pretty strong but not amazing or anything.

DO IT! It's not really YOUR car until you go custom.

Thank you for the compliment.

And that was my original plan. I had already pulled the screen out and was fiddling around with where i'd put it. When I stopped by Rays to get the double-DIN kit, I got an unthinkable deal on that W407 head unit so I jumped on it while I had the chance! Now the plan is to cover the top screen with a custom panel or something. I haven't decided yet. I don't really have any place to relocate the HVAC display now, although it didn't look too bad if I wanted to relocate them downward. Relocating them upward looked like it would require harness extensions. That's a fun afternoon of soldering with very little tolerance for error.

We'll see what happens, but for now I'm thinking I'm going to fab a plate to cover the top screen and embed a logo or something. I'll start there and if I hate it, well, you know what will happen.

 

Because I really didn't need more current capacity than what quality 4awg wire will deliver.

Here's the math I used. My amplifiers require fuses totaling 110 amps of current, so that's the absolute maximum current draw before things break down. Now here's the kick, they're stable down to 1.5 ohms, I run both amplifiers at 4ohm. (The sub amp at 4ohm mono and the highs amp at 4ohm stereo) That's in their sweet spot of efficiency and current draw, so if I had to guess I'd say I'm no where near 110 amps of current draw, thus 4awg is plenty. JL rates the wire I used at 100 amps for the distance I'm at, so why spend the extra cash on 1/0? That was my reasoning, but it depends a lot on the amplifiers you're using. Running the HD series amplifiers and not dropping the ohm load on the sub amp saved me a lot on electrical needs.

One footnote though, I used pure copper wire with a high strand count. No CCA stuff. That JL Audio wire is the high end of their line and handles more current (with less heat output) than CCA 4awg equivalents. I never (ever ever ever!) skimp on wiring quality and size. I felt like I had ample current handling ability for the draw that I had. For added protection, I have a 100amp fuse under the hood so it should pop before I hit the capacity of that wire.

If you go 1/0, just make sure it's pure copper. I see a lot of people run 1/0 CCA instead of pure 4awg, and I'm not sure that the power handling ability is all that different. CCA also runs hotter and that's not cool with me. (Yeah, bad pun but I couldn't help myself. )

 

well i took your advice and got rid of the sound stream speakers i will be keeping the same amp and tweeters thought i changes the front and rear speakers to which i heard is a really good brand so im hoping it pays off

http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_...IME-R1693.html
http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_...ch-P1S652.html

 

Cool deal man, throw up a thread and let people know what you think of everything.

 

will do bro thanks for the help one quick question am i going to need the adapter you bought for your 6.5'' or no

 

Yes, you will need one. I got mine from SRQcustoms and was happy with them even though I ended up not using them.

Scosche and a few others make a plastic version of them as well. Get the adapters for the front doors of an '08 Maxima, that's the ones. They might have updated their site for the '09 Maxima by now, who knows. It's also relatively easy to just build a panel and screw it in to the door. Either way works.

 

And now for the next installment in this build... Tweeter pods! I decided to go for the gusto and build some tweeter pods to more properly angle my tweeters into place. My best friend House is in town for a few more days so I figured I'd put him to work! We started wrapping and fiberglassing last night and installed them this afternoon. Here's the build.

First off, we used the angled mounting cups that Hertz provided. They were the perfect angle for my car excecpt they were too deep. A little work with the dremel and that's fixed.




After I was done with that, House wrapped the existing panels with cloth to do the fiberglass work.

 

After that was done, I built some blanks to insert into the tweeter holes. This will keep the fabric tight while we fiberglass.

 

Now it's time to apply the fiberglass. House broke out a fresh pair of gloves, new mixing cup, etc and away we went!





This morning it was my turn. Time to sand and test fit

 

After that they were wrapped in the same vinyl I used for the radio setup and installed into the Maxima





And we're done! One thing to note, the drivers side on the Maxima has a much smaller area by the a-pillar. Once you're in the car, you'll barely notice that the panels are a different size. The tweeters still maintain the proper angle and such, it's really more of an optical illusion due to the taller door panel on the drivers side. If anybody is attempting this, make sure you account for that!

 

nicely done

 

good job

you should open a shop

 

Thanks for the compliments.

No shop for me though! I did car audio about 12 years ago professionally as a temporary gig when I got laid off from IBM. That's when I decided that car audio needed to remain a hobby. Doing it to satisfy other people is often more annoying than rewarding. Nobody ever really listens to what you tell them, regardless of whether or not you have the most awesome system they've ever seen or heard!

 

I managed to borrow a heated garage so I decided to do the last of my sound deadening. I saved the floor boards for last as I wanted to do the trunk and doors first and use whatever I had left for the floorboards. Fortually it worked out. I had just enough to do the floorboards and back seats.






After all of that was done, it was time to install the DHA-S690 DVD changer and properly mount the brain of the PXA-H701.

 

Here's the current status of the trunk. The wiring is done but I need to clean it up and properly hide it. The power/ground for the processor need to be run behind the amp rack as well.




Tomorrow's project is to straighten the wires and then finally call the trunk "done". I'm also going to bi-amp the front stage and ditch the Hertz passive crossovers in favor of the active crossover in my PXA-H701. This will also give me 600 watts RMS going to my front doors. Should be pretty awesome.

 

vey nice once again