Heat wrapping/ceramic coating intake/exhaust pipes - worth it?

Subscribe
Aug 12, 2011 | 07:29 AM
  #1  
Curious if anyone has heat wrapped or ceramic coated their intake or exhaust piping and what kind of termperature changes you saw before and after and if you think it's worth the effort. Curious about any car you've done this to, not just a 7th gen. Any info is greatly appreciated!
Reply
Aug 12, 2011 | 07:40 AM
  #2  
When I wrapped my turbo down pipe on my RB20 240sx eveyone told me that my exhaust would start cracking .....after 3+ years we have replaced the wrap more than anything else...and you could feel a huge drop in uderhood temps....no exact number though.
Reply
Aug 12, 2011 | 07:44 AM
  #3  
Quote: When I wrapped my turbo down pipe on my RB20 240sx eveyone told me that my exhaust would start cracking .....after 3+ years we have replaced the wrap more than anything else...and you could feel a huge drop in uderhood temps....no exact number though.
More power too I'm guessing? Obviously that's my end result, or if I want to be casual maybe a little better mileage.
Reply
Aug 12, 2011 | 08:33 AM
  #4  
Quote: Curious if anyone has heat wrapped or ceramic coated their intake or exhaust piping and what kind of termperature changes you saw before and after and if you think it's worth the effort. Curious about any car you've done this to, not just a 7th gen. Any info is greatly appreciated!
For motorcycles, ceramic coating on the exhaust is definitely helpful. For normal street driven cars... I don't think you'll ever see any benefits of it, besides the finish looking great for many years.

For the intake piping... I do think it would help reduce your IAT's even further, especially while sitting in traffic with your custom CAI setup. You've already got your before and after IAT's with the stock airbox, takeda and custom CAI setup. As i'm sure you know, the VQ engines produce an exorbitant amount of heat. Anything to help the intake charge be as cool as possible is a big win.

From their website:
Cerakote* Heat Dissipation Coatings transfer heat away from a substrate, resulting in improved efficiencies, performance and longevity of the coated parts. This ceramic-bonded, thermal-conductive coating also helps to prevent corrosion and damage related to chemical and solvent attack. These coatings are proven to increase thermal transfer by 35-40% versus uncoated metal substrates.

Next week I definitely plan on making a trip to Figure Finishing to get you a quote on ceramic coatings for your intake pipe. If you can give me a rough estimate of pipe diameter (3 inches I think?) and length (maybe 2-3 feet?) I can get you a quote for the different types of ceramic coatings they offer.
Reply
Aug 12, 2011 | 08:56 AM
  #5  
Quote: For motorcycles, ceramic coating on the exhaust is definitely helpful. For normal street driven cars... I don't think you'll ever see any benefits of it, besides the finish looking great for many years.

For the intake piping... I do think it would help reduce your IAT's even further, especially while sitting in traffic with your custom CAI setup. You've already got your before and after IAT's with the stock airbox, takeda and custom CAI setup. As i'm sure you know, the VQ engines produce an exorbitant amount of heat. Anything to help the intake charge be as cool as possible is a big win.

From their website:
Cerakote* Heat Dissipation Coatings transfer heat away from a substrate, resulting in improved efficiencies, performance and longevity of the coated parts. This ceramic-bonded, thermal-conductive coating also helps to prevent corrosion and damage related to chemical and solvent attack. These coatings are proven to increase thermal transfer by 35-40% versus uncoated metal substrates.

Next week I definitely plan on making a trip to Figure Finishing to get you a quote on ceramic coatings for your intake pipe. If you can give me a rough estimate of pipe diameter (3 inches I think?) and length (maybe 2-3 feet?) I can get you a quote for the different types of ceramic coatings they offer.
That's wassup. I just measured it now.

The Takeda SRI piece is 10" long, 3" diameter except near the tip where it enlarges to 4". I used a 4-3" reducer and ran all of the piping at 3".

The angled piece I used is about 4" before the bend (which I guess is about 45 degrees) and then 8" after the bend (so 12" total with a 45 degree bend)

Then there are two short radius 90 degree elbows, so that's 3" x 3" for each of them.

Finally (we're down in the fender now so not sure if this needs it), another 3-4" reducer, a 4" wide pipe that is 3" long, and it connects to the filter there.

Here's a pic
Reply
Aug 16, 2011 | 08:03 AM
  #6  
or has anyone ever messed with this DEI intake cool cover stuff? not the most attractive thing to have in the engine bay but curious if it works

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/New-C...Q5fAccessories
Reply
Aug 16, 2011 | 08:10 AM
  #7  
with the top mount hx35 i had on the RB at the time it did seem to pull a little better but it still lagged no matter what lmao
Reply
Aug 16, 2011 | 08:18 AM
  #8  
heat wrapping exhaust is ONLY TO STOP HEAT FROM COMING INTO CABIN (no power gains)

heat wrapping intake = cooler temps going into your motor (power gains)
Reply
Aug 16, 2011 | 06:22 PM
  #9  
Heat wraping exhaust is ONLY helpful in turbo applications... NA you won't see any results worth the money spent...
Reply
Aug 16, 2011 | 06:46 PM
  #10  
If its 50 bucks to stabilize temps and keep them 20-30 f cooler i am still curious to try something and see what it does. I understand that some of the heat the intake sees since its attached to the engine so that heat is unavoidable, but it def still rises when idling i want to try to control that and lower overall temps if it works and wont risk cracking it like it sounds it does to headers
Reply
Aug 16, 2011 | 06:56 PM
  #11  
On my vg35de i had sooooo much heat soak with the intake manifold. I am really thinking on doing the NWP spacers to just try and cool down the damn thing. I cannot hold my hand on the IM after running the car. I really ghetto rig part of the IM by wrapping it in aluminum foil and it actually helped heat soak. When I do get the NWP spacers I WILL use DEI cool tape and wrap the entire manifold and my part of the intake tubing. On the 7th gen it is all plastic. I think nissan saw the error in their ways with the vg35de manifold design and changed it for the 7th gen. I don't think we will see a diff in the 7th gen. Once I start modding my SV I will most likely leave the intake alone as I think nissan did there best at it. On the exhaust the only benefit you would get from wrapping the manifolds on a NA motor would be lower under the hood temps. But this in turn would cause lower intake temps that would equal more power.
Reply
Aug 17, 2011 | 08:24 AM
  #12  
well question for you - if you were going to look at reducing temps on an intake pipe would you go with the exhaust heat wrap type stuff that you spray silicone over or the sleeve that has the reflective surface? Seems like the sleeve would work better in the engine bay
Reply
Aug 17, 2011 | 02:49 PM
  #13  
Quote: On my vg35de i had sooooo much heat soak with the intake manifold. I am really thinking on doing the NWP spacers to just try and cool down the damn thing. I cannot hold my hand on the IM after running the car. I really ghetto rig part of the IM by wrapping it in aluminum foil and it actually helped heat soak. When I do get the NWP spacers I WILL use DEI cool tape and wrap the entire manifold and my part of the intake tubing. On the 7th gen it is all plastic. I think nissan saw the error in their ways with the vg35de manifold design and changed it for the 7th gen. I don't think we will see a diff in the 7th gen. Once I start modding my SV I will most likely leave the intake alone as I think nissan did there best at it. On the exhaust the only benefit you would get from wrapping the manifolds on a NA motor would be lower under the hood temps. But this in turn would cause lower intake temps that would equal more power.

USDM-FWD VQ's

95-99 = Al
00-01 = Plastic
02-06 = Al
07-08 = Al w/the exception of the power rod assembly which was plastic
09+ = All plastic.

I'd prefer an A35 IM vs the Al on my 03 right now.
Reply
Aug 18, 2011 | 09:20 AM
  #14  
my main two concerns are

1 - increasing temps cause im now preventing the metal from dispersing heat. as i understand it header-type wraps are designed to keep heat IN, not keep it out

2 - causing the pipe to rust/erode underneath the wrap. i read most people who use this in race applications will frequently take off the wrap to replace it or check it

the reflective surface stuff looks interesting, but then again im starting to see what Maxxxspeeeed is saying this probably won't yield measureable results beyond seeing my idle temps a little lower.
Reply
Aug 18, 2011 | 09:52 AM
  #15  
Quote: USDM-FWD VQ's

95-99 = Al

00-01 = Plastic
02-06 = Al
07-08 = Al w/the exception of the power rod assembly which was plastic
07+ L32 IM = Plastic
09+ = All plastic.

I'd prefer an A35 IM vs the Al on my 03 right now.
Fixed.
Reply
Aug 18, 2011 | 10:09 AM
  #16  
Quote: Fixed.
I guess I shoulda have stated Maximas. moot point.
Reply
Subscribe