I had my Y-Pipe put on today... I watched them do the whole installation at the shop and it was very simple... Driving home i now hear little squeaking every once in a while.

-2011, Stock exhaust, just stillen intake (if it matters)

Anyone else have this? Will it go away?

 

Could be needed to be broken in, give it a couple days and a few miles. Then hit the shop up.

 

When mine was first installed, I didn't hear any squeaking..or any sound difference to be honest. Give it a day or two then go back to the shop.

 

Yep, mine did the same thing, it's just settling in. Part of the break in process. Give it a couple weeks and then go back under and re-tighten everything, should stop squeaking.

 

Ok i'll do that... just wanted to make sure it wasn't just my problem... Real quick, how do you reset the computer? I just disconnected the negative on my battery for like 2 hours. is that how you reset it?

 

Your good, just pull the NEG from the battery BEFORE you begin. It's not so much the time the battery is disconnected, most upgrades will allow plenty of reset time for the ECU.

 

Really, I had to reset my battery for the Y-Pipe? I wasn't aware of this..I didn't do that.

The instructions didn't call for it..is it too late..did I mess it up?

EDIT: Nevermind, I did my own research and my ECU definitely recognized the Y-Pipe especially after the 1,000+ Miles I have already driven. I haven't experienced any rattling or anything. I had mine done at a Muffler shop, I'll blame them if anything.

 

I just popped on the AC, and my car started idle ing around 1.5K, and now the engine light is on. But it only happened when the AC went on. Is this something that could fix itself over time? If I take it to the dealer and they see the y pipe and intake will they screw me? Kinda worried

 

i would be worried lol

 

It was the intake hose that was a little loose so they said said it was sucking the wrong amount of air or something, so the lights off no prob anymore. One more thing, I just pulled in my drive way and my car was idling a bit over 1K (no AC on), would that be normal for a fresh y pipe instal?

 

This in no way sounds related to your Y-pipe, but since your weren't the one to install it who the hell knows.
This is why I try to do most mods myself. If I screw up I can usually figure it out myself.
When someone else works on the car your not always sure what was done.

I know you said you watched them do it? Very strange.

 

I'm starting to think the cars computer just isn't used to it yet and I'm might be over reacting... I hope

 

You need to do two (maybe three) things:

Accelerator pedal released position relearn

Turn ignition ON for at least 2 seconds (obviously WITHOUT touching the accelerator pedal) and off for at least 10 seconds

Throttle closed position relearn

Repeat above procedure two more times (do not start engine during this procedure)

That also reminds me, I just ordered a new accelerator pedal since mine has been sticking...it may be worth a try to put your toe under the pedal and pull it up to make sure it is completely released.

The third things is the idle air volume relearn procedure. I'd advise you to take it to the dealership so they can do it with the Consult-III since it's so much easier.

There is a way to manually do this that requires putting a code into the gas pedal and some extremely precise timing. But again, it's difficult to do and requires a stopwatch and some practice.

Late,
Trav

 

"Repeat above procedure two more times (do not start engine during this procedure)"...

 

It's gotta be AC related also. I just turned on my AC and the engine light came on again. Will I have a problem if I take it to the dealer with these bolt ons?

 

All depends on if they can prove mods caused the problem

 

This is the accelerator pedal released position relearn.

Turn ignition ON. Wait at least 2 seconds.
Turn ignition OFF. Wait at least 10 seconds.
Turn ignition ON. Wait at least 2 seconds.
Turn ignition OFF. Wait at least 10 seconds.

The throttle closed position relearn:

Turn ignition ON. Wait at least 2 seconds.
Turn ignition OFF. Wait at least 10 seconds.


Just don't put your foot on the brake. You do not want to start the engine during all this. All you're doing is cycling the ignition from OFF to ON to OFF to ON for the specified time.

You can do the idle air relearn as well, but the same procedure that starts the idle air volume relearning is the same to get the error codes to flash out on the SES light.

There's actually a good writeup on nicoclub.com

Late,
Trav

 

Gotcha.. The confusing part was that i thought i would be turning the engine on and off, but now i understand. Thanks

 

I finally fixed the whole issue (well its been a few days with no problem)... I gave it one last shot before i sucked it up and took it to the dealer. I unplugged the neg battery AND the MAF sensor. as soon as i turned it on it started working perfect. I also guess it learned the y pipe was there cause i feel the decrease in low end power everyone speaks of, but after 35-40mph it pulls very very nicely.

 

It's still learning, give it time. I really don't feel much if any low end power loss from the y-pipe install on my car. The CVT can and will do funny things related to vehicle acceleration. I have noticed the car will respond a bit sluggishly if you had just brought the car to a slow crawl or stop and then try to quickly accelerate. When the car has a few more seconds to settle before then accelerating it responds much better. I'm guessing it's the torque converter not locking-up in time.

 

So its almost been a month since i put it on and the crazy squeeking still isnt gone. I went back last Saturday to have them tighten up the bolts after a 1000 mile "break in", and no change. Anyone come across something like this?