Why I love Black cars and Meguiar's
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Junior Member
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 27
Why I love Black cars and Meguiar's
This is why I'm obsessed with black cars, it's so hard to beat the depth you get with black. The swirls left by the dealer's cleaning crew HAD to go. Everything but the wax was applied with a Porter Cable DA. Microfiber towels to remove.
It looks pretty good, but I'm going to have to put my back into the doors a little more.
Here's what I did:
1) Clay Bar all the way around.
2) Meguiar's 83 with Meguiar's yellow pad (WB8006) on the hood and deck lid where the swirls were the worst.
3) Meguiar's 80 with new WB8006 on the hood/deck lid/all other horizontal surfaces.
4) Meguiar's #9 with WB9204 pad all the way around.
5) Meguiar's #7 with new WB9204 pad all the way around.
6) Finally: Meguiar's NXT 2.0 all the way around.
It looks pretty good, but I'm going to have to put my back into the doors a little more.
Here's what I did:
1) Clay Bar all the way around.
2) Meguiar's 83 with Meguiar's yellow pad (WB8006) on the hood and deck lid where the swirls were the worst.
3) Meguiar's 80 with new WB8006 on the hood/deck lid/all other horizontal surfaces.
4) Meguiar's #9 with WB9204 pad all the way around.
5) Meguiar's #7 with new WB9204 pad all the way around.
6) Finally: Meguiar's NXT 2.0 all the way around.
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 27
Ya, I gave up on this level of detailing when I lived in the Midwest. In Arizona I've got a fighting chance cause it just doesn't rain here. Biggest issue now is the dust. You're right though, gotta stay on top of black cars.
Senior Member
Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 369
From: Delaware
Looking really clean! Great job! Post those pics up on the Detailing Showoff thread - mine was the last one on New Year's Day:
http://forums.maxima.org/detailing/1...ml#post8316389
Black is a chore but it's the best color when it's all dressed up. High maintenance for sure.
http://forums.maxima.org/detailing/1...ml#post8316389
Black is a chore but it's the best color when it's all dressed up. High maintenance for sure.
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 27
I've gotta be honest, I've never considered a white car until I saw the 2012 WF Max. I seriously considered it this time and may very well make the leap next time.
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 27
slicknick,
I apply everything other than the wax with a Porter Cable DA Polisher. The Porter is virtually the same thing as Meguiar's DA. For swirl removal steps (except #9), I used Meguiar's W8006 pads. For the #9 and #7 applications, I used Meguiar's W9204 black pads.
I apply the final wax by hand with a poly foam wax applicator.
I apply everything other than the wax with a Porter Cable DA Polisher. The Porter is virtually the same thing as Meguiar's DA. For swirl removal steps (except #9), I used Meguiar's W8006 pads. For the #9 and #7 applications, I used Meguiar's W9204 black pads.
I apply the final wax by hand with a poly foam wax applicator.
Junior Member
Joined: Mar 2012
Posts: 66
From: KY
You could have skipped all that and just went with "ULTIMATE Line" from maguiars. Three steps and with the meguiars 6" polisher and your done. Not a scratch to be scene in sunlight or florescent light, or even under direct flash light either.
1. Ultimate Compound
2. Ultimate Polish
3. Ultimate Wax.
Even removes ectched in bird dropping and sap. Best stuff ive ever seen.
the Ultimate wax is way better than the NXT wax.
REFLECTION IN THE HOOD OF THE CEILING IN MY GARAGE.
1. Ultimate Compound
2. Ultimate Polish
3. Ultimate Wax.
Even removes ectched in bird dropping and sap. Best stuff ive ever seen.
the Ultimate wax is way better than the NXT wax.
REFLECTION IN THE HOOD OF THE CEILING IN MY GARAGE.
Last edited by donhd04; Jun 4, 2012 at 04:25 AM.
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 27
donhd04,
Car looks great! Good job. I kind of got out of detailing a few years ago. When I did, #83, #80, and NXT were the hot ticket and that's what I had handy. Based on the info you shared, looks like I need to try some of the new stuff.
Why is Ultimate Wax better than NXT?
Car looks great! Good job. I kind of got out of detailing a few years ago. When I did, #83, #80, and NXT were the hot ticket and that's what I had handy. Based on the info you shared, looks like I need to try some of the new stuff.
Why is Ultimate Wax better than NXT?
Junior Member
Joined: Mar 2012
Posts: 66
From: KY
donhd04,
Car looks great! Good job. I kind of got out of detailing a few years ago. When I did, #83, #80, and NXT were the hot ticket and that's what I had handy. Based on the info you shared, looks like I need to try some of the new stuff.
Why is Ultimate Wax better than NXT?
Car looks great! Good job. I kind of got out of detailing a few years ago. When I did, #83, #80, and NXT were the hot ticket and that's what I had handy. Based on the info you shared, looks like I need to try some of the new stuff.
Why is Ultimate Wax better than NXT?
http://www.meguiars.com/en/automotiv...te-wax-liquid/
http://www.meguiars.com/en/automotiv...ech-waxreg-20/
I used mothers carnuba on one side section of the hood and meguairs NXT on the other section then used the Ultimate on the other side and a difference of night and day. Then i went back and used dish washing soap to get the mothers and NXT off and reapply the Ultimate to match the other side.
the NXT and mothers left it still feeling sticky and not smooth and slick at all. The Ultimate side I don't think a fly could have landed on it with tennis shoes on and not slid off.
BTW are your wheels 19"? Im wishing now I would have gotten the 19" wheels but they don't offer them on the premium package and I wasn't paying extra for them upfront.
Last edited by donhd04; Jun 5, 2012 at 07:16 AM.
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 27
On your advice, I stopped at Autozone on the way home and picked up Ultimate Compound/Polish/Wax/Detailer.
I think #83 and UC are virtually the same thing except UC doesn't seem to leave the haze you get with #83. I'm going to see what Mike has to say about it on the Meguiar's forum. I also think #9 and UP are close to the same thing. I think I'm going to use the ole' tape trick and compare them side-by-side. What I believe to be true at this point: If you use #83, you really should follow with #80 to remove haze. It looks like UC might be nearly as aggressive as #83 without leaving the haze thereby eliminating the need for #80. If my suspicions are true, I'll stick with this new method for sure, although I still think there's a place in the bucket for #83 to address tough spots. I really wish they'd use the cut meter on the ultimate bottles like they do on the professional line though.
NXT and UW on the other hand--big difference. Unfortunately, I finished working on it late, so I didn't get a chance to see the doors in the sunlight. I re-did the hood while it was still light out and the first thing that struck me was the consistency in color and the ease of removal. UW comes off almost as easily as it goes on. It doesn't stain trim, and the box says it can be applied in direct sunlight; however, I think I'll pass on that test.
Sometimes with NXT after removal, I see darker sections--like the wax bonded better in those sections than the lighter sections. Generally another coat fixes it. I definitely don't see that problem with UW. I did some reading on the Meguiar's forum and they do suggest UW over NXT for darker colors, so I think I'm a convert on the wax for sure. Thanks for the tip!
Sorry for the crappy phone pictures. I recently bought this house and haven't hung the requisite shop lights yet.
Junior Member
Joined: Mar 2012
Posts: 66
From: KY
Yes, my Maxima is the Sport/Tech version, so 19" wheels. I had a real hard time deciding between a white/black premium/tech and the black/black sport/tech. I drove both and had both parked next to each other on the lot while I thought about it. I guess I'm a glutton for punishment with black
On your advice, I stopped at Autozone on the way home and picked up Ultimate Compound/Polish/Wax/Detailer.
I think #83 and UC are virtually the same thing except UC doesn't seem to leave the haze you get with #83. I'm going to see what Mike has to say about it on the Meguiar's forum. I also think #9 and UP are close to the same thing. I think I'm going to use the ole' tape trick and compare them side-by-side. What I believe to be true at this point: If you use #83, you really should follow with #80 to remove haze. It looks like UC might be nearly as aggressive as #83 without leaving the haze thereby eliminating the need for #80. If my suspicions are true, I'll stick with this new method for sure, although I still think there's a place in the bucket for #83 to address tough spots. I really wish they'd use the cut meter on the ultimate bottles like they do on the professional line though.
NXT and UW on the other hand--big difference. Unfortunately, I finished working on it late, so I didn't get a chance to see the doors in the sunlight. I re-did the hood while it was still light out and the first thing that struck me was the consistency in color and the ease of removal. UW comes off almost as easily as it goes on. It doesn't stain trim, and the box says it can be applied in direct sunlight; however, I think I'll pass on that test.
Sometimes with NXT after removal, I see darker sections--like the wax bonded better in those sections than the lighter sections. Generally another coat fixes it. I definitely don't see that problem with UW. I did some reading on the Meguiar's forum and they do suggest UW over NXT for darker colors, so I think I'm a convert on the wax for sure. Thanks for the tip!
Sorry for the crappy phone pictures. I recently bought this house and haven't hung the requisite shop lights yet.
On your advice, I stopped at Autozone on the way home and picked up Ultimate Compound/Polish/Wax/Detailer.
I think #83 and UC are virtually the same thing except UC doesn't seem to leave the haze you get with #83. I'm going to see what Mike has to say about it on the Meguiar's forum. I also think #9 and UP are close to the same thing. I think I'm going to use the ole' tape trick and compare them side-by-side. What I believe to be true at this point: If you use #83, you really should follow with #80 to remove haze. It looks like UC might be nearly as aggressive as #83 without leaving the haze thereby eliminating the need for #80. If my suspicions are true, I'll stick with this new method for sure, although I still think there's a place in the bucket for #83 to address tough spots. I really wish they'd use the cut meter on the ultimate bottles like they do on the professional line though.
NXT and UW on the other hand--big difference. Unfortunately, I finished working on it late, so I didn't get a chance to see the doors in the sunlight. I re-did the hood while it was still light out and the first thing that struck me was the consistency in color and the ease of removal. UW comes off almost as easily as it goes on. It doesn't stain trim, and the box says it can be applied in direct sunlight; however, I think I'll pass on that test.
Sometimes with NXT after removal, I see darker sections--like the wax bonded better in those sections than the lighter sections. Generally another coat fixes it. I definitely don't see that problem with UW. I did some reading on the Meguiar's forum and they do suggest UW over NXT for darker colors, so I think I'm a convert on the wax for sure. Thanks for the tip!
Sorry for the crappy phone pictures. I recently bought this house and haven't hung the requisite shop lights yet.
Senior Member
Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 1,326
From: WA
No problem on the tip. I love black and it will stand above most other colors when clean. I did get a spot of bird crap in an inconspiquous place(he had to been flying upside down and backwards) and i didn't notice it. I did try the Ultimate compound and it took most all of it out but did leave a slight etching in the finish. So im on a hunt for meguiars pro line to find something slightly more aggressive to try and buff it out for good and then re seal with compound, polish and then wax again. Mequaires in my opinion is the best option for dark cars.
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 27
The pro line has the cut meter on the bottle, so you can see how each product compares to the next. As I mentioned in one of my previous posts, I think #83 is pretty close to UC except if you get a little assertive with #83 it will haze the clear coat. #80 does a fine job of removing the haze though. So if you need something with a little more bite than UC, you might want to check out #4 or #1.
#4's description:
"Removes heavy swirls, scratches, severe oxidation, alkaline and acid rain etching
Diminishing abrasives cut quickly, then reduce to a polishing rouge
Buffered abrasive action lubricates the finish to prevent scouring"
Of course, you're probably familiar with Meguiar's theory on using the pro line: Always use the least abrasive material to solve the problem. Per my original post, I worked my way down from #83.
PS Their marketing guy should be fired. I can find NO PATTERN to their numbering system. It's all over the map. That's why I love that cut meter. They should just number their products according to that meter and stick a designator on the end like: "C"ompound, "G"laze, "P"olish etc.
Junior Member
Joined: Mar 2012
Posts: 66
From: KY
Check this out: http://www.meguiars.com/en/professional/products/
The pro line has the cut meter on the bottle, so you can see how each product compares to the next. As I mentioned in one of my previous posts, I think #83 is pretty close to UC except if you get a little assertive with #83 it will haze the clear coat. #80 does a fine job of removing the haze though. So if you need something with a little more bite than UC, you might want to check out #4 or #1.
#4's description:
"Removes heavy swirls, scratches, severe oxidation, alkaline and acid rain etching
Diminishing abrasives cut quickly, then reduce to a polishing rouge
Buffered abrasive action lubricates the finish to prevent scouring"
Of course, you're probably familiar with Meguiar's theory on using the pro line: Always use the least abrasive material to solve the problem. Per my original post, I worked my way down from #83.
PS Their marketing guy should be fired. I can find NO PATTERN to their numbering system. It's all over the map. That's why I love that cut meter. They should just number their products according to that meter and stick a designator on the end like: "C"ompound, "G"laze, "P"olish etc.
The pro line has the cut meter on the bottle, so you can see how each product compares to the next. As I mentioned in one of my previous posts, I think #83 is pretty close to UC except if you get a little assertive with #83 it will haze the clear coat. #80 does a fine job of removing the haze though. So if you need something with a little more bite than UC, you might want to check out #4 or #1.
#4's description:
"Removes heavy swirls, scratches, severe oxidation, alkaline and acid rain etching
Diminishing abrasives cut quickly, then reduce to a polishing rouge
Buffered abrasive action lubricates the finish to prevent scouring"
Of course, you're probably familiar with Meguiar's theory on using the pro line: Always use the least abrasive material to solve the problem. Per my original post, I worked my way down from #83.
PS Their marketing guy should be fired. I can find NO PATTERN to their numbering system. It's all over the map. That's why I love that cut meter. They should just number their products according to that meter and stick a designator on the end like: "C"ompound, "G"laze, "P"olish etc.
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