Finally got this done with the help of a friend who's into car audio. The tablet project s still on hold. I'm too lazy to work with bondo . The hardest part was wiring the power line through the rubber grommet.

The power wire, w/fuse (AGU, 10amp), from battery to the cabin.




If you remember LVleo78's Infinity Baselink II install, it's almost no different with the exception of the lack of line-level converter and the wire in question which was the remote turn-on lead.

By the way, the "Procoat" box you see there was not purchased - the dealer just threw it in as a bonus. I doubt it actually works but who knows. Just never bothered to remove it.

Install was straight forward. Set up the wire from the battery w/fuse, run it through the grommet, along the side under the plastic trim. From there, it was finding a place to ground the wire from the sub and tapping the "subwoofers" in the rear deck to the high level inputs. Additionally, we tapped the Acc power wire from the subwoofer amp.

The sub installed is this, a Sound Ordnance B-8p


I bought the Boss 8 gauge amplifier kit online as well as some 10amp AGU fuses.
http://www.amazon.com/KIT-2-Complete.../dp/B000FKP7TY

Once the power was run along the side of the car and to the trunk area, behind the rear passenger seating, we focused on the remote turn-on and wiring from the factory subwoofers.

See the diagram below: The remote turn on wire we tapped into is #9 and was the color green, as indicated in the service manual. We tested this to make sure as well. If you do the same, make sure to double check. This is the wire connected to the harness going into the factory amp.

#9, ACC power, GREEN. (Not Blue, like on the the bose system).




Unfortunately, I didn't take pictures of the grounding points. I selected a predrilled/pre-threaded hole that can be found underneath and behind the passenger seating and happened to have the right size/thread bolt to fit. The area and bolt were sanded to ensure better connection. When you take out the seats and carpet, you'll see what I mean. The carpet/board covering the spare tire is also held in by two plastic pins toward the passenger seat end. Just pull them out slowly.

With the next picture, you'll see the factory subwoofers were tapped directly at the subs. Next to the harness connection, there are tabs for positive and negative input with hook pins ready for solder. We tapped the lines from there to the high level inputs. I'll try and get a better picture later (As I need to recrimp/solder better wires to them).



Anyway, that's it for now. The sound is nice and hits pretty hard, although my friend said he would prefer it to be more glass shattering I'm loving it so far and it does well to fill some of that low end base. If/when I install a new header unit, I'll definitely run the sub inputs from there.

If there's any way to improve upon the setup, I'm all ears. Thanks!

 

Good job! Nice and clean install.

 

Thanks! Yeah, I'm surprised how simple it actually was (thought I cut my hand a bit on the parking brake mount trying to get the wire through the grommet in the firewall). Adds depth to the system but now I want a new header unit...

Any suggestions on good ones? Don't really care for those fancy touch screen ones (since I'm going to put a tablet in anyway).

 

nice work and great write-up!

 

Thanks, Ghozt! Hope everything works out okay with your car.

 

So I just bought a new head unit, have the harnesses all soldered up and ready to go, but I stopped the install remembering reading that the stock speakers run at 2Ω. Really kicking myself for not saving that thread - can't find it now. The manual noted not to use the HU with speakers with an impedance value of 1Ω to 3Ω.

I saw this is confirmed for the bose system, but what about the non-bose in the S models? Anyone rip theirs out and know what the front and rear door speakers are rated at? I'm gonna give that a shot on a less rainy day =/ Thanks!

 

Did we ever get any updates on this?

 

The 6x9s in the front doors and rear deck as well as the 6.5s in the rear passenger doors are all rated at 2 Ohm. I actually ended up just ordering speakers and changing those out first. I left the rear deck and only changed it out recently (last week actually). I'm not sure how much harder I'm making the stock amp work but they seem to work fine for low-mid bass.

One thing to note - the "tweeters" on the dashboard are rated at 4ohms so no real issue there and I doubt you need to change them out (but you can, and I did). I'll see if I can post some pictures once I find them.

 

I know this is an old a$$ thread but I just wanted to thank shipwreck for the instructions, made the install a breeze especially locating the remote turn on wire

 

I'm glad this helped you out!