7th Generation Maxima (2009-2015) Come in and talk about the 7th generation Maxima

H&R Wheel Spacers - Now Available Black Anodized! Flush out your Max..

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Old May 31, 2013 | 07:56 PM
  #41  
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Serpent do you have pics of your ride with the spacers on? I would like to see what they look like on oem rims? Your not lowered are you cause I'm not..
Old May 31, 2013 | 10:43 PM
  #42  
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No good pics, just dark ones from in the garage. I'm washing my car tomorrow, maybe I'll see if I can get a couple good pics while she's clean. I am lowered on eibachs though, so maybe the pics wouldn't be exactly what you're looking for.
Old Jun 1, 2013 | 06:54 AM
  #43  
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Originally Posted by Serpent
Congrats man! No one's asked for my opinion, but I still want to offer that I think you should make your second mod be the Eibach lowering springs. I was hesitant about lowering, but it's worth doing. If I had it to do over again the springs probably wouldve been first on my list. Since you care enough about the look of your setup, you'll love how it is after being a tad lower. You can go all out with coilovers if you're into that, but spacers and eibachs is a winning combo. Lol

Oh, and consider cleaning up those rusty rotors before putting the spacers on.
Thanks!

I'd LOVE to lower it except I live in New England and I have some reservations about potholes etc. and ground clearance when there
s smpw pm the ground in the winter.

I guess it's a good excuse to make friends drive in the snow? lol.
Old Jun 4, 2013 | 06:47 AM
  #44  
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Originally Posted by Ghozt
Yeah vibrations after getting a 4 wheel alignment + 4 wheel balance. They're the idiots who used the air gun. Never had a problem with any of my spacers before, but also have never had an air gun used on them before either so I don't know if I'm making assumptions and it is just coincidental they are warped now.



already done. now i wont have a weird silver spacer inbetween my gunmetal rim and black rotor
I'm pretty much of a newb when it comes to stuff like this, but how can an airgun warp the spacers? When one changes tires, should you inform the shop that you have spacers and not use an airgun and what should they use instead?
I would love these spacers but you spooked me out lol
Does anyone have any pics of their max with stock tires/rims *not* lowered? I would be really interested in this simple mod to at least differentiate my Maxima from the hundreds of Altimas that I see every day. Man I can't stand it when people tell me that they really like my new Altima
Old Jun 4, 2013 | 08:05 AM
  #45  
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Originally Posted by ndk1

I'm pretty much of a newb when it comes to stuff like this, but how can an airgun warp the spacers? When one changes tires, should you inform the shop that you have spacers and not use an airgun and what should they use instead?
I would love these spacers but you spooked me out lol
Does anyone have any pics of their max with stock tires/rims *not* lowered? I would be really interested in this simple mod to at least differentiate my Maxima from the hundreds of Altimas that I see every day. Man I can't stand it when people tell me that they really like my new Altima
Don't be scared of em, but yes, request that the shop doesn't use an air gun to re-attach the wheels. They can use a normal driver to put the nut on the bolt, and then cinch it down with a torque wrench to about 85 ft/lbs.

I think the potential for warping comes from the spacers being made of softer metals. They're not solid chunks of steel, they're pretty lightweight. Plenty strong for what they're designed for, but if you really over-torque one of the nuts, you could warp it when you tighten the other ones. Probably wouldn't matter much if they were all over-torqued uniformly, but cranking one down too hard on a soft metal is asking for trouble.
Old Jun 4, 2013 | 08:07 AM
  #46  
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I'm about to pull the trigger on these. Just trying to decide if I should go with 15 & 20mm, or 20 & 25mm. Going to look for some pictures of the 15 & 20mm combo.
Old Jun 4, 2013 | 09:03 AM
  #47  
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Originally Posted by 1996blackmax
I'm about to pull the trigger on these. Just trying to decide if I should go with 15 & 20mm, or 20 & 25mm. Going to look for some pictures of the 15 & 20mm combo.
Go with 20 and 25. It's more aggressive but definitely not overdone. Not even my grandpa would think it was wider than it should be. Besides, unless you find pics that are a direct comparison from the exact same angle of the 20 and then the 25, you're gonna have a tough time seeing the difference. It's hard to photograph, but who knows, you might find some good pics.

Only downside is that I guess you might sling a little more tire shine onto the body of the car using wider spacers.
Old Jun 4, 2013 | 09:58 AM
  #48  
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Originally Posted by Serpent
Don't be scared of em, but yes, request that the shop doesn't use an air gun to re-attach the wheels. They can use a normal driver to put the nut on the bolt, and then cinch it down with a torque wrench to about 85 ft/lbs.

I think the potential for warping comes from the spacers being made of softer metals. They're not solid chunks of steel, they're pretty lightweight. Plenty strong for what they're designed for, but if you really over-torque one of the nuts, you could warp it when you tighten the other ones. Probably wouldn't matter much if they were all over-torqued uniformly, but cranking one down too hard on a soft metal is asking for trouble.
Originally Posted by Serpent
Go with 20 and 25. It's more aggressive but definitely not overdone. Not even my grandpa would think it was wider than it should be. Besides, unless you find pics that are a direct comparison from the exact same angle of the 20 and then the 25, you're gonna have a tough time seeing the difference. It's hard to photograph, but who knows, you might find some good pics.

Only downside is that I guess you might sling a little more tire shine onto the body of the car using wider spacers.
All perfect info..
Old Jun 4, 2013 | 05:14 PM
  #49  
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Smile

Originally Posted by Serpent
Don't be scared of em, but yes, request that the shop doesn't use an air gun to re-attach the wheels. They can use a normal driver to put the nut on the bolt, and then cinch it down with a torque wrench to about 85 ft/lbs.

I think the potential for warping comes from the spacers being made of softer metals. They're not solid chunks of steel, they're pretty lightweight. Plenty strong for what they're designed for, but if you really over-torque one of the nuts, you could warp it when you tighten the other ones. Probably wouldn't matter much if they were all over-torqued uniformly, but cranking one down too hard on a soft metal is asking for trouble.

Thanks. That makes a lot of sense
Old Jun 4, 2013 | 05:28 PM
  #50  
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I went back through some older threads again. I looked at one with pictures of gtmassive's Max with 20mm spacers all around, and then Ghozt's pictures with his 20 & 25mm spacers.

http://forums.maxima.org/7th-generat...pacers-v2.html

20 & 25 it is....I was just worried about taking family trips with the car loaded with luggage.
Old Jun 4, 2013 | 07:16 PM
  #51  
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Originally Posted by Serpent
Congrats man! No one's asked for my opinion, but I still want to offer that I think you should make your second mod be the Eibach lowering springs. I was hesitant about lowering, but it's worth doing. If I had it to do over again the springs probably wouldve been first on my list. Since you care enough about the look of your setup, you'll love how it is after being a tad lower. You can go all out with coilovers if you're into that, but spacers and eibachs is a winning combo. Lol

Oh, and consider cleaning up those rusty rotors before putting the spacers on.
Was watching some of the great videos at Andy's Autosport. He mentions that coilovers are better than just springs because springs change the struts to the point that they're not working within their normal range. Coilovers, according to him, would be a better idea. My question to you, since you seem very knowledgeable and your input would be greatly appreciated, is that every now and then I transport 5 passengers. Would the coilovers or springs affect maximum weight allowances for the Maxima? Which ones would you recommend?

Thanks for all your help
Old Jun 4, 2013 | 08:51 PM
  #52  
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Originally Posted by ndk1

Was watching some of the great videos at Andy's Autosport. He mentions that coilovers are better than just springs because springs change the struts to the point that they're not working within their normal range. Coilovers, according to him, would be a better idea. My question to you, since you seem very knowledgeable and your input would be greatly appreciated
Thanks, but I won't pretend to be an expert about something I'm not sure of like coilovers. Truth is that this is the first car that I've done any modifications to, and I'm learning as I go. I just bought my spacers a month or two ago, so you were asking at the right time. Lol. Seems that anyone around here who has coilovers has them so they can get super low, not because of issues that lowering springs cause with the stock struts. Someone else should have a better answer to your question though. Hopefully we'll get someone to chime in.
Old Jun 5, 2013 | 08:24 AM
  #53  
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What's the best way to clean up rotors?
Old Jun 5, 2013 | 07:46 PM
  #54  
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I placed my order for the H&R spacers today . Can't wait to install em.
Old Jun 5, 2013 | 09:09 PM
  #55  
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Originally Posted by gormehn
What's the best way to clean up rotors?
Wire brush, brakleen. Maybe some rust remover. And when they're nice and clean, tape the area where the pads rub and then spray it with some paint that'll withstand high heat. I don't know what the best paint would be though. Maybe the stuff that's designed for barbecues.
Old Jun 5, 2013 | 09:10 PM
  #56  
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Originally Posted by 1996blackmax
I placed my order for the H&R spacers today . Can't wait to install em.
Right on man! Good for you!
I'd suggest spending another $20 on a torque wrench if you don't have one. That way you'll know they're on right.
Old Jun 6, 2013 | 01:23 PM
  #57  
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Originally Posted by Serpent
Right on man! Good for you!
I'd suggest spending another $20 on a torque wrench if you don't have one. That way you'll know they're on right.


Thanks . I have one & will definitely be using it.
Old Jun 6, 2013 | 08:16 PM
  #58  
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Originally Posted by Serpent
Wire brush, brakleen. Maybe some rust remover. And when they're nice and clean, tape the area where the pads rub and then spray it with some paint that'll withstand high heat. I don't know what the best paint would be though. Maybe the stuff that's designed for barbecues.
Serpent coming through with all the infos!

Spacers arrived today looking really clean although I'll warn all to avoid contact with other hard materials the black coating scratches off easily so don't let them collide when removing from box. Will share pics asap and also provide before/after when I install.

One last question - if installing by hand how can I tighten appropriately?
Old Jun 6, 2013 | 08:28 PM
  #59  
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https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?f...1&l=cc16b90cdc
Old Jun 6, 2013 | 08:31 PM
  #60  
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https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=10100677138480961&set=a.74690434565 1.2334202.11008005&type=1&relevant_count=1
Old Jun 6, 2013 | 08:41 PM
  #61  
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Originally Posted by gormehn

Serpent coming through with all the infos!

Spacers arrived today looking really clean although I'll warn all to avoid contact with other hard materials the black coating scratches off easily so don't let them collide when removing from box. Will share pics asap and also provide before/after when I install.

One last question - if installing by hand how can I tighten appropriately?
Right on dude. Looking forward to the pics. Just find the right size socket and tighten em down. No need to crank on em like crazy, just get em fairly tight and then switch over to a torque wrench to finish it off. With the money you invested into the spacers, it's worth $20 more for a 1/2" torque wrench from autozone. You'll feel better being able to occasionally double check that they're all still at about 85 ft lbs. And not just for the spacers but for the wheels as well.

Remember that you'll want to double check that the spacers' nuts are all still tight. Anywhere between 100-500 miles after install is probably fine.
Old Jun 7, 2013 | 07:08 PM
  #62  
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Unfortunately we're getting straight rained on in the north east so no install until I find time after work this week. Stay tuned!
Old Jun 9, 2013 | 03:22 PM
  #63  
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black FTW
Old Jun 9, 2013 | 04:18 PM
  #64  
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I put the spacers in last night. I'm liking the stance the car has now.
Old Jun 9, 2013 | 06:21 PM
  #65  
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Great, a new pic is in store....but I really liked your "pre-spacer" signature. Your car really pops in that picture!
Old Jun 9, 2013 | 07:07 PM
  #66  
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Thank you sir

I will take some soon.
Old Jun 11, 2013 | 02:13 PM
  #67  
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Originally Posted by Serpent
Wire brush, brakleen. Maybe some rust remover. And when they're nice and clean, tape the area where the pads rub and then spray it with some paint that'll withstand high heat. I don't know what the best paint would be though. Maybe the stuff that's designed for barbecues.
Serpent, I have all the equipment just one more follow-up question to ensure I paint the right place.

Do I paint part of the disc section of the rotor below where the pads rub or just stick to the portion that protrudes from the disc and houses the bolts, stopping at the base of the disc?

Thanks,
Gor
Old Jun 11, 2013 | 04:14 PM
  #68  
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Originally Posted by gormehn

Serpent, I have all the equipment just one more follow-up question to ensure I paint the right place.

Do I paint part of the disc section of the rotor below where the pads rub or just stick to the portion that protrudes from the disc and houses the bolts, stopping at the base of the disc?

Thanks,
Gor
Everywhere that can rust. Clean up the whole thing. It'll be easier if you can fully remove the rotor. Then put masking tape over the area where the pads rub. Then use a razor knife and cut the tape along the border of where the pads rub so that everything is exposed and ready to paint EXCEPT FOR the area that the pads clamp down on. Good luck man! It's a lot easier to just slap the spacers on, but you'll be glad you painted the rotors. Take your time and it'll look great.
Old Jun 11, 2013 | 04:41 PM
  #69  
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Why do Maximas (and alot of cars) not come factory closer to flush? Some cars look retarded how far in the wheels protrude, what advantage do manufacturers get from that kind of offset? Just leaving more room for people to add wider rims?
Old Jun 20, 2013 | 07:28 PM
  #70  
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Before
https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?f...ze=1224%2C1632

After
https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?f...ze=1224%2C1632



Wow done what a pain in the *** I'll write up a "lessons learned" for everyone when I get a second wind and I will also take the time to shine up them tires. Still.. like it.
Old Jun 20, 2013 | 07:49 PM
  #71  
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i just slapped in my 10mm H&R black spacers today to replace my Ichiba ones. i love the black color, and the unit feels better built than the Ichiba's in terms of quality. the centric rings are part of the unit as well instead of separate - i like that. and best of all - my vibration is gone! woohoo!
Old Jun 20, 2013 | 10:19 PM
  #72  
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Originally Posted by Ghozt
i just slapped in my 10mm H&R black spacers today to replace my Ichiba ones. i love the black color, and the unit feels better built than the Ichiba's in terms of quality. the centric rings are part of the unit as well instead of separate - i like that. and best of all - my vibration is gone! woohoo!

That's good to hear!

Now you just have to keep the knuckleheads away from your car.
Old Jun 23, 2013 | 08:27 AM
  #73  
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I have the same setup as black max and have been waiting for some pics with the 20/25 spacers installed. can you please put one up, maybe two..
Old Jun 24, 2013 | 09:11 PM
  #74  
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I'm out of town right now...road trip from San Diego to San Francisco on the coast. I will take some pics when I'm back in town.
Old Jul 11, 2013 | 07:20 PM
  #75  
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Originally Posted by 1996blackmax
I'm about to pull the trigger on these. Just trying to decide if I should go with 15 & 20mm, or 20 & 25mm. Going to look for some pictures of the 15 & 20mm combo.
Hey man I'm in the same boat....what combo did you end up with, deciding factor?
Old Jul 11, 2013 | 07:43 PM
  #76  
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I ended up going with 20mm up front & 25mm in the rear. I went with that as it seemed to be the one that made it flush. I'm happy with my decision. It really makes the car look a lot better.
Old Jul 11, 2013 | 08:38 PM
  #77  
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Originally Posted by 1996blackmax
I ended up going with 20mm up front & 25mm in the rear. I went with that as it seemed to be the one that made it flush. I'm happy with my decision. It really makes the car look a lot better.
Good to know....thxs!
Old Jul 12, 2013 | 04:13 AM
  #78  
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Originally Posted by Boslax6123
Good to know....thxs!
Your welcome
Old Aug 18, 2013 | 09:47 AM
  #79  
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What torque setting are you guys using on the DRM's...??

I believe the setting for the outer lug nuts on the wheel are 85lbs. Is the same for the DRM bolts too?

Since I'm taking the rear wheels off today to install splash guards I want to check these while I'm at.
Old Aug 18, 2013 | 11:26 AM
  #80  
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Ive been going 85 ft/lbs for all 40 nuts.



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