A few months ago, I noticed my car drop to 600 RPMs while at a red light, then jump up to 1100. Okay, one time, so what? Then it happens a couple weeks after, and the last few weeks my car has been doing it a lot more to the point where the car sounds like it 's going to die. Once it stalled and all the lights came on but luckily it was a rail road crossing, and the car turned over like it never happened. It only happened when I was stopped. Then last night I was reversing my car into the driveway and when I shifted from Drive to Reverse, the car just stalled and all the lights came on. Once again the car turned over right after. I'm just curious as to what it could be, or if anyone else is having the same issue. It does have 69k miles, could it be the CVT fluid? that was the first thing that came to mind.

 

Is your AC on by any chance?

 

This. It freaked me out the first time it cut on for me while stopped also, my previous car would die at the drop of a hat so I was pretty worried. So if someone is riding in the car with me when that happens and they ask about it, I just tell them that I have a pretty hardcore A/C compressor and they need to get on my level haha.

 

nope, i noticed it happen when the AC is on too but its no where near as noticeable

 

I would get it into the shop and have them check that ecu. my max does not do that at all. with the air on. infact I never turn the air off. I think personally that that ecu is screwing with you.

 

yeah i think i will get it checked out, its getting worse and worse.

 

Alright so ive been to the dealer twice now, and this issue is still happening! The first time they said it was the idle management or something in the computer. i drove it home and it was fine the same day i left for work and it stalled. I went back to the dealership and they reset the intake exhaust timing saying that would solve the problem. Then it happened 2 days later again. I am going to go back on Monday but I just want to know if anyone else experienced this or any ideas what it would be. I feel like the dealership doesnt know what theyre doing.
Also.. my friend said something about Lemon Law because it still hasnt been fixed after 2 times.

 

You are probably right in that the dealership doesn't know what they're doing. But before you go in screaming Lemon Law and getting on their wrong side you might want to research exactly what the lemon law states for your own education. Two times back with the same problem does not qualify for the lemon law, do some independent research.

 

Yeah I know, I was just mentioning it if anyone had gone that route, but I know twice is not enough for the lemon law, and I have no plans to talk about that until I try every thing to fix this issue. I will go to the dealership one more time if it doesnt work, I'm gonna try another shop I trust but I have no idea what it could be. If someone could shed some light on this, it'd be nice.

 

Try giving us some more information. Was the check engine light on? Was it raining or wet out? Did this happen after hitting a bump? I too think its electrical but do not want to chime in with possible causes without having all the facts. please be as descript as possible and I will help any way that I can.

 

It happens while I am slowing down or making a turn at a low speed. I have noticed it is mostly when it's hot out, but my temperature gauge always stays in the middle. There is no check engine light on, and once the car shuts off, it starts right back up as if it never happened.

I went back today and they said it needs a retard timing kit, and the total would be $450 + tax. It sounds like b.s because the way he explained it, it does the same thing that they did last time with adjusting the timing.
They said it is caused by going prolonged periods without changing the oil. I always put in Mobil 1 Full Synthetic with the gold Mobil 1 filter, and never go over 7,500 miles (mostly do it every 5-6,000).

 

I would charge that re tarted tech the $400 and tell them to shove it that's a load of crap !! Don't eat it

 

Don't you just love the way dealer techs think they can tell a customer anything and they'll accept it as the truth? I just took my car in for an oil change and they told me the 60k mile service would come to $780 dollars.

$300 of which would be a cvt fluid change, which when I asked about at 50k miles I was told my fluid was good until 100k. I suggest you go to another dealer because they are trying to rob you.

 

I forgot about this thread. They wanted to charge me $220 for the CVT fluid as well at the time because if not my warranty would be void. I told them I'd come back for that. I didn't get the retard timing kit. Just a heads up for anyone living near Chicago, Star Nissan has good people working there but all they care about is making money, always get a second opinion. I went to my friend's shop, got the CVT changed for $130 (with OEM Nissan cvt fluid) and the car feels fine now, without spending $400+ and time in the shop. now i understand why people call them stealerships.

 

Remember the stealer ships charge about $95 an hour which adds up quickly .

 

So changing the CVT fluid fixed your idle problem?