We'll i guess this is my introduction to the site since i just joined. Im currently deployed in the U.S. Navy and i'll be home soon and im interested in a 2013 or 2014 Maxima SV with Premium and Technology Package. I never bought a "brand new" car so im new to the incentives and discounts that i can be elgible for. Now my question is when negotiating on the price is it good not to pay sticker price but to agree to a price first then start with the incentives and other discounts? For example say the car sticker is 33k i negotiate down to 31k then say im elgible for 6k in incentives so from that 31k now its 25k? Sorry to be so confusing im just excited to purchase a new Maxima and to be off deployment lol i appreciate any info,tips, strategies any of u guys or gals have to give me. Thanks lot

 

I have not thought about whether to establish the discount before mentioning incentives, or vice-versa. As long as you know what incentives are available, I think you may be correct in establishing the selling price first. But ask if the price the salesman is agreeing to includes any incentives, as he almost surely has already taken those into account.

As for price, be aware a Maxima equipped with Premium and Tech packages has an MSRP over $40K (plus dealer 'packs' such as paint and upholstery protection listed on a separate sticker, which you should not pay). But the '14s are on dealer lots now, so you should be able to get a big discount on a leftover '13.

The MSRP on my loaded '09 was almost $40K when I bought it around New Years day in 2009, but I offered only $34,600, and my salesperson agreed to my offer. She knew from having sold me Maximas for many years that I do not negotiate. If she does not accept my offer, I simply wait a month or two and make the same offer again. In your case, since you need a vehicle soon, you could make an offer you feel is reasonable, and if it is rejected, try another dealer.

If you had a vehicle of some sort to get around in through this fall and winter, you could wait for the completely redesigned 8th gen Maxima, which will arrive on dealer lots between March and June this coming spring.

Whatever you decide, remember that YOU are in the driver's seat with any negotiations, and have the option of walking away from any salesperson at any time.

 

Well im learning more towards the 2013 model just based on the savings, and as much as i would love to wait for the 8th Gen to come out i just dont wanna wait and i dont like the new model. I've been delaying on buying the 7th generation since i knew i was gonna be deployed soon so i wanted to wait until i got back. And i seen a few NEW 2013 models with the premium/tech package on carmax.com for around 27k after factory rebates and stuff there's a Carmax near my fathers house that sells some new and used cars. 27k is a great price in my opinion but as always if i can save alittle more im willing to put in the work. Oh one last thing do u think if i brought a copy of the cars that Carmax has for sale for 27k after incentives and rebates i can use that as leverage to a Nissan delaership and shop around like that or will they not try to beat the Carmax price.

 

Use truecars.com
and carsdirect.com
to help with pricing for your region.

 

First of all "Thank you" for your service. Welcome to the community and good luck with your purchase. You will love this car.

 

You should negotiate the car price first, then if you have a trade in then negotiate the trade value and then if you want to finance it negotiate the interest rate. It drives them nut but if you have good credit then you should have no problem getting what you want. It is a three part process.

 

If you find a NEW 2013 SV with premium/tech for $27K buy it, no dealer is going to beat that price

 

best of luck in your search!

 

Yea they have a few at Carmax that i seen online...They have like 6k off the MSRP with the incentives and stuff and it expires 9/30/2013. I wont be back from deployment by then but im hoping they still have a few around that price when i do get back.

 

If you get it for $27 K that's over $13K off stcker on a 2013 SV with Premium/Tech

No dealer is going to come even close, when I searched Carmax the lowest I saw was $31K for a premium without the tech package. Cars direct, which is more in range with what dealers charge has the Prem/Tech for about $32K

2013 prices will drop as the year goes on

 

it also depends on the car you're looking at. do some research find out how long the car has been on the lot, and go shopping at the end of the month (end of the year is best). they pay taxes every month for every car on the lot, and after a long time just want the damn things moved.

 

Do you know for sure how the taxes work ? Seems to me it would be outrageous depending on the city/state and delaers would be looking for the cheapest possible area to store cars in surrounding cities to avoid taxes

 

I got the dealers internet price, then when at the dealer they said "Well that price includes some discounts you don't qualify for". I pointed to the price on my printout and said nothing is mentioned about that, and that was the end of the don't qualify part. Its always nice to hang them by their own price! Go towards the end of the month and they can be even more reasonable. Make sure you get any additional warantee before you talk to the finance guy. Have them agree to all the options, extras and everything then add that anything extra they now bring up will be included at no cost, prevents those last minute surprises the finance guy like to throw at you.

 

used ones are going for 17 to 20k range now. I'd look for used and bypass the depreciation.

Once u drive out that new car lot for 34k, it will automatically be worth about 27 to 28k. u take a 6k hit just like that. Trust me, I been thru that and it sucks.

 

This is what I preach to my friends and family.

Sorry but that new car smell isn't worth all that depreciation.

 

How do u findout how long the car has been on the lot? And I did plan on going at the end of the month if i can hold off i'll wait until December but all this depends on when i get back to the states from this deployment.

 

This is money advice.
Also, if you are a member, CostCo has a buying service where everything is pre-negotiated and you don't have to go through all the BS at the dealership.

A few friendly tips: ask around and find a good dealer. The dealer closest to my house is a sh*thole that has a reputation for ripping people off. The place I leased my car from is owned by a family that cares more about their reputation than their bottom line and, so far, the experience has been wonderful. Also, don't fall for any games - there are plenty of Nissan dealerships no matter where you live. If you feel like you are being screwed with, threaten to walk away.

Finally, and most importantly, a big, heartfelt thank you for your service. I feel strongly that our fine men and women serving our country and protecting us deserve to hear so many thank you's that they either get sick of hearing it or just don't hear it anymore. People like you are the reason our nation is safe. Stay safe and come home soon.

 

I'd be very carefull buying any used car know with all the recent major flooding,any deal that seems too goo to be true usually is

Searches will turn up many more articles

http://www.torquenews.com/1075/carfa...ers-nationwide


According to new research conducted by Carfax, more than 212,000 cars that were branded as flood damage by a state Department of Motor Vehicles (DMV) are on U.S. roads right now. Nearly two-thirds of these flood damaged cars are being driven in ten states: Texas, New Jersey, Pennsylvania, Kentucky, Louisiana, Illinois, New York, Florida, Mississippi and Virginia. However, scam artists are sending these cars to any state where unknowing consumers will buy them.
"Our research proves that flood damaged cars are everywhere," said Larry Gamache, communications director at Carfax. "It's big business for professional con men to quickly clean up and resell these cars miles from where the flooding occurred. Consumers need to look out for flooded cars no matter where they live. They're a serious danger to anyone who unknowingly buys one."
The problem is that floodwater, especially salt water, gets into the innards of cars causing corrosion and a whole host of problems. Carfax says they retrieved and analyzed a car that had been flooded by Hurricane Sandy, demonstrating how easily cars can be made to appear safe and reliable on the outside. But of course, they're rotting on the inside.

 

Good advice indeed!

There was a piece about this on nightline, I believe. Some insurance company's had totaled vehicles but didn't change the titles to reflect flood damage, then sent the cars to auction. Dealerships snapped some cars up for a steal and sold them at used car values instead of salvage value.
If you do decide to look used, take whatever car you are seriously considering to a mechanic you trust and pay them to go over the thing to look for signs of flooding or accident damage. It's easy to spot if you know how and have a lift.

 

sure u have to be careful, but there are plenty of non flood cars.

Just find one with a carfax history that shows where it was first registered as a newly car. Most used cars have a location of maintenance history.

 

How do u findout how long a car has been on the lot new or used.

 

CArfax is not 100%, I swerved to miss a deer once and did $3k worth of damge to a car I had.

I had my buddy fix it on the side for $1200 cash and never went through the insurance

Neeedless to say it never showed up on car fax.

I imagine a lot of cars that only have minor flood damage might be the same

 

All I'm going to say as a car salesman, if you are buying a car used from a dealer, they are making money on you. New cars may depreciate, but your best value is in a new car. I've made money selling new and used. But my 4,000 deals are mostly on used vehicles. Use truecar.

 

I can't see how the best value is in new cars when they take a deep drop in value once they leave the dealer lot. The best values is in cars a few years old selling for about half list price with a 30 days money back guarantee such as CarMax has. The 30 days is more than enough top have it inspected and make sure there are no bugs.

 

So buy a new car because the dealer won't make as much money off you? I don't see dealer profit as evil and obviously what the previous owner traded it in for is out of my control. Don't want to take the thread off topic, just my 2cents.

 

I dont really car if its new or used i just want to get the best deal for my money.

 

If you can grab a new 2013 Premium /Tech for $27 K ( as you posted ) that's the best deal you will find.

Sure you can save some money on a used car but cars in that price range tend to be ready for tire/brakes, batteries, etc and who knows what is coming as far as repairs unless you get a CPO.

Most of those cars are leases, people who lease do the least amount of maint as possible

I keep my cars longer so the depreciation isn't bad as it's averaged over the years, if you plan on keeping the car a year or two by all means lease or buy used.

 

Profit margins are larger on pre owned vehicles.

 

The dealership can tell you how long they had it and its on the carfax report as well. And as for the $6k or more hit its very true. We just bought a used 2013 Kia Optima turbo SLX for my wife. It only has 8k miles on it and was originally 9 months ago for $36k, we got it for $28k. Features that my SV Maxima doesn't have are heated and cooled front and rear seats, cooled glove box, Brembo brake kit, active parking brake, and of course the turbo. She is very happy with it and so am I, no more lost weekends looking at cars.

 

The 27k was my fault that was for one tht didnt have the Premium Package but it did have the Technology Package. The last one i seen was a 2013 New with Premium/Tech Package for 30k.

 

If you plan on keeping the car more than 4 years still a better buy then used IMO, that's ~$10K off sticker.

You will have no out of pocket costs except routine maint for 3 years and can get 0 % financing if you need it

A lot of the cheaper used Maxima's and S models,

 

Well before the 8th gen arrives, dealers will be working like mad to get rid of their 7th gen inventory. If you don't like the 8th gen, you will be able to pretty much name your price for a 7th gen.

 

Yea i wish but i cant wait that long to buy a car and who knows when the 8th gen will come out, before deployment me and my wife was sharing one car and easily tacked on 20k miles in 1 year on her new Altima. So when i get back im gonna need to get a car so the headache and hassle isnt there.

 

The first year of a new model always has more problems, better to avoid or lease IMO

Auto can makers scale back production the last year of a model so that there in no crazy excess inventory when the new body style is released

I doubt you get a 2014 7th Gen for much less than a 2013 is selling for now. Remember Nissan lowered the MSRP on the Maxima in March/April 2013.

 

It's always funny to hear people who have no idea how the industry of car sales work, give advice. Must of read the book on " how to buy a car for dummies" all you gotta do is run into a salesman and your *** is driving a car home, weather you intended to or not. The customer usually does the lying. I got 7,500 off my brand new maxima. Try not to get spanked by your dealership. I would have given up on the guy trying to buy a car in a few months. Today buyers only. This ain't six flags.

 

What on this thread was bad advice ?

 

Could this be a flood damaged car as mentioned above ?

http://forums.maxima.org/7th-generat...ml#post8853083

 

Are the 2014 models out yet or are they slowly being put on the carlots?

 

Ok so as people might know Military deployment return dates are not official until your offically home. So with that said my return date has changed once again so i'll be home in around December sometime. So i was wondering would i be getting a good deal buying a car around or after Christmas before the new year is up?

 

Prices will go up after December. Broke people getting their income taxes push prices up cause of the higher demand. So buy before January.