New Car Battery
New Car Battery
I have a 09 Nissan Maxima SV that still has the OEM car battery. I need to get it replaced pretty soon since it wont start if the radio and/or lights have been on for 10-15 minutes. Any suggestions on car battery brands or places to buy a replacement? I live in South Dakota, so we get both very cold and very hot weather.
I just replaced the weak oem in my '10 with a DieHard Platinum. Probably would have went with an Optima Red Top if I had time to order it online and have it shipped, but I was in a pinch so I went with the DH. Ive seen the Optima's online in the 165-170 range shipped.
I have a 09 Nissan Maxima SV that still has the OEM car battery. I need to get it replaced pretty soon since it wont start if the radio and/or lights have been on for 10-15 minutes. Any suggestions on car battery brands or places to buy a replacement? I live in South Dakota, so we get both very cold and very hot weather.
I had a Diehard Gold North last 10 years ( it was still going at ten, just figured it was time) for me.
The first 3 years were in Connecticut and the last 7 were in Minnesota
AAP Autocraft Gold, size 24, 700 CCA, with promo cpde A124 - $81.99 plus core charge.
http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/web...000%7CL3*15597
http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/web...000%7CL3*15597
AAP Autocraft Gold, size 24, 700 CCA, with promo cpde A124 - $81.99 plus core charge.
http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/web...000%7CL3*15597
http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/web...000%7CL3*15597
Nice find on that promo code. The only thing is you have it buy it online for the coupon to work, no big deal if you have a local AAP store to pick it up at
Last edited by 13Maximasv; Oct 22, 2013 at 04:17 PM.
I just replaced my 2010 OEM with an Interstate MT-24F. Never had a problem with Interstate and the shop I go to swears by them.
Of course all of this could have been avoided if the window tint guy didn't crush my charge, twice. One occasion while doing the windows and then a return visit doing the windshield. Not to hijack the thread, but is it possible to keep the doors open for an extended period of time without killing the battery? The interior lights are not on, but the smart key was inside the vehicle (possible giving it some aux power??). Next time I'll keep the smart key handy and away from the vehicle.
Of course all of this could have been avoided if the window tint guy didn't crush my charge, twice. One occasion while doing the windows and then a return visit doing the windshield. Not to hijack the thread, but is it possible to keep the doors open for an extended period of time without killing the battery? The interior lights are not on, but the smart key was inside the vehicle (possible giving it some aux power??). Next time I'll keep the smart key handy and away from the vehicle.
I just replaced my 2010 OEM with an Interstate MT-24F. Never had a problem with Interstate and the shop I go to swears by them.
Of course all of this could have been avoided if the window tint guy didn't crush my charge, twice. One occasion while doing the windows and then a return visit doing the windshield. Not to hijack the thread, but is it possible to keep the doors open for an extended period of time without killing the battery? The interior lights are not on, but the smart key was inside the vehicle (possible giving it some aux power??). Next time I'll keep the smart key handy and away from the vehicle.
Of course all of this could have been avoided if the window tint guy didn't crush my charge, twice. One occasion while doing the windows and then a return visit doing the windshield. Not to hijack the thread, but is it possible to keep the doors open for an extended period of time without killing the battery? The interior lights are not on, but the smart key was inside the vehicle (possible giving it some aux power??). Next time I'll keep the smart key handy and away from the vehicle.
Did you have the issues with your new battery ? The stock battery is 550 CCA, Your interstate is 600 CCA.
I'm going to a 700 CCA when I replace the factory battery
For GA weather I think 600 cca is just fine.
I had the windows tinted on my Infiniti and the battery was fine, 700 CCA Diehard gold. I used to play the radio for hours and it still started.
Hot weather kills a battery also.
Hopefully, the 700 CCA will give you longer time with interior lights and the radio on than 600 CCA
I had the windows tinted on my Infiniti and the battery was fine, 700 CCA Diehard gold. I used to play the radio for hours and it still started.
Hot weather kills a battery also.
I had the windows tinted on my Infiniti and the battery was fine, 700 CCA Diehard gold. I used to play the radio for hours and it still started.
Hot weather kills a battery also.
Hopefully the next time I'm required to have the doors open I'll be more cognizant of where the smart key is (if that was the culprit).
If this had not happened on a whim I would have probably done a bit more research and opted for one with more CCA's, but I've known my mechanic for over 18 years and he's never steered me wrong. I was in a pinch and took what he recommended.
True.
Hopefully the next time I'm required to have the doors open I'll be more cognizant of where the smart key is (if that was the culprit).
If this had not happened on a whim I would have probably done a bit more research and opted for one with more CCA's, but I've known my mechanic for over 18 years and he's never steered me wrong. I was in a pinch and took what he recommended.
Hopefully the next time I'm required to have the doors open I'll be more cognizant of where the smart key is (if that was the culprit).
If this had not happened on a whim I would have probably done a bit more research and opted for one with more CCA's, but I've known my mechanic for over 18 years and he's never steered me wrong. I was in a pinch and took what he recommended.
I think these cars draw more power for some reason, I saw a guy from AAA jumping one and his battery pack wouldn't work, had to hook it up to his truck and let it run for a bit before it would turn over
Your mechanic probably saw it was 550 CCA from the factory and figured 600 would be fine. Nissan is replacing these batteries if they fail under warranty with 700 CCA batteries
I think these cars draw more power for some reason, I saw a guy from AAA jumping one and his battery pack wouldn't work, had to hook it up to his truck and let it run for a bit before it would turn over
I think these cars draw more power for some reason, I saw a guy from AAA jumping one and his battery pack wouldn't work, had to hook it up to his truck and let it run for a bit before it would turn over
Good Deal
AAP Autocraft Gold, size 24, 700 CCA, with promo cpde A124 - $81.99 plus core charge.
http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/web...000%7CL3*15597
http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/web...000%7CL3*15597
According to the current issue of Consumers Report the best battery in group 35 is the EverStart MAXX-35N it is 640 CCA and rated much higher than the DieHard Gold. It is available at Walmart for $85 and has a good warranty
You have to specifically ask for the 700 CCA battery otherwise they'll give you the 600 CCA one. Ask me how I know? When mine died in my garage my battery pack wouldn't start it either, I tried it again after I had charged the pack and it worked so now I keep my battery pack plugged into the outlet.
Lightonthehill said that new Maximas were coming with 700 CCA from the factory but mine was built 10/2012 and still has the 550 CCA
Read the reviews on those batteries, we discussed this before. Johnson Controls makes the Everstart and the Diehard, there is no way the cheaper Everstart is made better or Sears would Flip
Not definitively, no. However, there really is no other explanation for why my battery was killed when my window tint guy was tinting the windshield. The radio wasn't on, windows weren't being rolled up or down, and the doors were left open without the interior lights on. It took about an hour and my car had to be jumped off. My suspicion is that if the smart key is in the vehicle while the doors are open....there is more power being used than if it was out of range to be recognized.
I believe leaving the key in the car will eventually take a toll on the battery... I used to leave my key in the car all the time when it was in the garage and my battery didnt make it past the 3 year mark. Now, it was one of the 550cc batteries that came with the car and I couldnt clean the inside with both doors open without needing a jump afterwards. But, if the key is in the car all the time, then the dash is going to flash for you to push the start button and this is going to draw some power.
Not definitively, no. However, there really is no other explanation for why my battery was killed when my window tint guy was tinting the windshield. The radio wasn't on, windows weren't being rolled up or down, and the doors were left open without the interior lights on. It took about an hour and my car had to be jumped off. My suspicion is that if the smart key is in the vehicle while the doors are open....there is more power being used than if it was out of range to be recognized.
I just had an Altima as a loaner and left the key in the cupholder for a week with no battery issues, seems odd the door being open would make a difference
I believe leaving the key in the car will eventually take a toll on the battery... I used to leave my key in the car all the time when it was in the garage and my battery didnt make it past the 3 year mark. Now, it was one of the 550cc batteries that came with the car and I couldnt clean the inside with both doors open without needing a jump afterwards. But, if the key is in the car all the time, then the dash is going to flash for you to push the start button and this is going to draw some power.
My pack was just charged and it still wouldn't work, I guess it matters how dead the battery is as it wouldn't even start connected to his AAA truck until it sat hooked up for a while
Lightonthehill said that new Maximas were coming with 700 CCA from the factory but mine was built 10/2012 and still has the 550 CCA
Lightonthehill said that new Maximas were coming with 700 CCA from the factory but mine was built 10/2012 and still has the 550 CCA
You have a great memory, 13Maximasv. I did say exactly that, because that was what my service advisor told me. But I have now seen two posters here who had Maximas assembled after July 2012 (when the change supposedly took place) and who have the 550 CCA battery. That is not good.
My OEM 550 CCA battery never gave me any trouble during the four years I had it, but rather than wait till I was marooned in a snowbank for three days, I had my Nissan dealer put the 700 CCA Nissan battery in my car over a year ago, and it seems more powerful than the 550 CCA battery did. The price of the Nissan 700 CCA battery is $128, with a $14 refund for turning in the old battery, which means it cost $114.
While I can't speak for others you only add water if the battery needs it so I'm guessing they tried that
550 CCA is very small for a car like this
Why it's not maint free is beyond me, 2002 and 2003 came with higher cca maint free batteries
The only car my family ever bought new without a maint free battery prior to my Maxima was a 1981 Mercedes 380SL
While I can't speak for others you only add water if the battery needs it so I'm guessing they tried that
550 CCA is very small for a car like this
Why it's not maint free is beyond me, 2002 and 2003 came with higher cca maint free batteries
The only car my family ever bought new without a maint free battery prior to my Maxima was a 1981 Mercedes 380SL
550 CCA is very small for a car like this
Why it's not maint free is beyond me, 2002 and 2003 came with higher cca maint free batteries
The only car my family ever bought new without a maint free battery prior to my Maxima was a 1981 Mercedes 380SL
I seem to recall something on a Nissan site around ten years ago discussing the problems that some folks were having with 'maintenance-free' batteries, and it turns out that maintenance-free batteries at that time had a higher failure rate than those that sometimes required adding water. I don't remember the details, or know if that situation is still true.
I do know that any time my oil is changed, my battery gets two looks - one by my dealer who changes my oil (and checks the 'battery checked' box on the 40 point service check list), and one by me who trusts nobody. I check under the hood when I get home after an oil change, just to be sure all fluids are at the proper level, and all rags and tools are removed from the engine compartment. I have found some surprising things under my hood after a service trip.
For drivers less **** than me, a maintenance-free battery would seem to be a better choice.
I seem to recall something on a Nissan site around ten years ago discussing the problems that some folks were having with 'maintenance-free' batteries, and it turns out that maintenance-free batteries at that time had a higher failure rate than those that sometimes required adding water. I don't remember the details, or know if that situation is still true.
Once a year when I am home I wax both cars and clean them thoroughly , I leave the radio on for hours ,doors open and never had an issue with starting.
Today I listened to the 1st quarter of the Broncos game ( less than 1/2 hour ) on Sirius while I cleaned my interior and my battery was dead
Let me tell you this is just a great car, 6 months old, 4,000 miles and I can't play the radio for 30 minutes without killing the battery, windshield was installed wrong and had to be replaced as it rattled, dash taken apart for other rattles, EBrake light and cell phone charger never worked since new, and oh yea, my engine was replaced due to what seems to be a common bearing knock
Last edited by 13Maximasv; Oct 27, 2013 at 09:12 PM.
My dad has a 2003 Maxima, mom a 2002, OEM battery never failed but replaced after 8 years. This is in Connecticut where hot and cold weather wear on a battery
Once a year when I am home I wax both cars and clean them thoroughly , I leave the radio on for hours ,doors open and never had an issue with starting.
Today I listened to the 1st quarter of the Broncos game ( less than 1/2 hour ) on Sirius while I cleaned my interior and my battery was dead
Let me tell you this is just a great car, 6 months old, 4,000 miles and I can't play the radio for 30 minutes without killing the battery, windshield was installed wrong and had to be replaced as it rattled, dash taken apart for other rattles, EBrake light and cell phone charger never worked since new, and oh yea, my engine was replaced due to what seems to be a common bearing knock
Once a year when I am home I wax both cars and clean them thoroughly , I leave the radio on for hours ,doors open and never had an issue with starting.
Today I listened to the 1st quarter of the Broncos game ( less than 1/2 hour ) on Sirius while I cleaned my interior and my battery was dead
Let me tell you this is just a great car, 6 months old, 4,000 miles and I can't play the radio for 30 minutes without killing the battery, windshield was installed wrong and had to be replaced as it rattled, dash taken apart for other rattles, EBrake light and cell phone charger never worked since new, and oh yea, my engine was replaced due to what seems to be a common bearing knock
And a dash rattle would be extremely disappointing to me, as they can be a dog to fix. I have been driving since the 1940s, (millions of miles), and have never had to have a new engine. I am truly sorry you have had so much bad luck with your Maxima.
You are absolutely correct that listening to the radio on the 7th gen Max with the engine off will kill the OEM battery very quickly. And you are also correct that this should not be a problem with this car. That is one reason I stepped up to a 700 CCA battery, even though my 550 CCA had given no trouble in four years.
And a dash rattle would be extremely disappointing to me, as they can be a dog to fix. I have been driving since the 1940s, (millions of miles), and have never had to have a new engine. I am truly sorry you have had so much bad luck with your Maxima.
And a dash rattle would be extremely disappointing to me, as they can be a dog to fix. I have been driving since the 1940s, (millions of miles), and have never had to have a new engine. I am truly sorry you have had so much bad luck with your Maxima.
It's far from just my car, 45% of the ~40 votes we have so far on the bearing issue show the same thing. Scary part is this thread is only 3 weeks old and virtually everyone noticed the problem since the thread was started. Unless you let the car idle warm and in Park and stand outside the car you won't notice this issue until it gets much worse.
I'm actually lucky as I got new short block and an 8 year bumper to bumper warranty for free from Nissan.
Others are having problems getting the dealer to acknowledge the issue and if they do are having the MAJOR job of ripping a part the motor and doing the bearing per the TSB as opposes to a new block, SO MANY things can go wrong doing that.
This car has one more shot , the cars direct price combined with the low mileage and the free 8 year /100K mile bumper to bumper zero deductible warranty will make it so I will lose only 3 grand or so.
I'm 16 shop days away from enacting the MN lemon law so that is another possible path depending on what issues arise.
Not sure if I go Infiniti again as I don't have a local dealer, probably bmw 4 series
Last edited by 13Maximasv; Oct 27, 2013 at 09:42 PM.
Bought a battery
I ended up getting my battery from Advanced Auto Parts - Autocraft Gold Battery, 640 CCA. It's not an Optima, but it's a big step up from my OEM battery and I'm satisfied with it. They said my old battery was a 550 CCA battery, but only getting 370 CCA at the time. I've also noticed that my car seems to idle slightly lower in the mornings even though it's just as cold as its been the last few weeks.
My 2009 SV sport needed a battery few months ago, lasted almost 5 years then wouldn't start one morning. Went to local part store, got one for 85 - 5 dollars to bring old one back to them. I just had them run it on their computer to see which batteries would work, and then bought it. didnt feel the need to buy a super battery since I like to replace every 3-4 years anyway.
Is it the warranty of the car or the battery itself? If the battery what was the original warranty for it? Also the new oem 700 cc batteries, are they maintenance free?
It's far from just my car, 45% of the ~40 votes we have so far on the bearing issue show the same thing. Scary part is this thread is only 3 weeks old and virtually everyone noticed the problem since the thread was started. Unless you let the car idle warm and in Park and stand outside the car you won't notice this issue until it gets much worse.
I'm actually lucky as I got new short block and an 8 year bumper to bumper warranty for free from Nissan.
Others are having problems getting the dealer to acknowledge the issue and if they do are having the MAJOR job of ripping a part the motor and doing the bearing per the TSB as opposes to a new block, SO MANY things can go wrong doing that.
This car has one more shot , the cars direct price combined with the low mileage and the free 8 year /100K mile bumper to bumper zero deductible warranty will make it so I will lose only 3 grand or so.
I'm 16 shop days away from enacting the MN lemon law so that is another possible path depending on what issues arise.
Not sure if I go Infiniti again as I don't have a local dealer, probably bmw 4 series
I'm actually lucky as I got new short block and an 8 year bumper to bumper warranty for free from Nissan.
Others are having problems getting the dealer to acknowledge the issue and if they do are having the MAJOR job of ripping a part the motor and doing the bearing per the TSB as opposes to a new block, SO MANY things can go wrong doing that.
This car has one more shot , the cars direct price combined with the low mileage and the free 8 year /100K mile bumper to bumper zero deductible warranty will make it so I will lose only 3 grand or so.
I'm 16 shop days away from enacting the MN lemon law so that is another possible path depending on what issues arise.
Not sure if I go Infiniti again as I don't have a local dealer, probably bmw 4 series
The battery warrranty is seperate from the car. I believe the new batteries ( Higher CCA) still use water
This is out of the warranty book.
If your battery becomes unserviceable within the first 24 months of service Nissan will replace your battery, including labor, without charge, providing the battery was originally installed in your vehicle by an authorized Nissan dealer.
If the battery becomes unserviceable after 24 months of use, Nissan will provide a replacement battery at a reduced price, charging only for the portion of the life of the battery actually used. This is called a _pro-rata adjustment_. You will be responsible for all labor charges for the replacement of the battery. This warranty and the _pro-rata adjustment_ end 84 months after the date of the battery’s purchase or installation, whichever is earlier. However, the warranty on a Genuine Nissan replacement battery installed during the Nissan New Vehicle Limited Warranty will extend through, and will not end before, the end of that original warranty.
PS Every other car that I owned had at least bumper to bumper warranty.
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