I already had HIDs installed for both lows and fogs and three weeks ago added the brake duct DRLs, this past weekend added the XB Halos and throughout the week noticed flickering in the brake duct DRLs until one and then both spent more time off than on.

During this the Halos never flickered nor did the fogs but last night I noticed my drivers side low beam out! I went out this morning to troubleshoot the low beam but realized when I unplugged the brake duct DRLs it came back on and (as of now) is back to normal!

Could this be because of too much power being pulled by all of my new toys on the front end? Also both the brake duct DRLs and Halos are wired to come on with my parking lights, which also never went out during any of this.

 

It might be due to the fact that all the power is being drawn from the same source, which is your park lights. Try getting a LED remote or a drl relay do that the power can be drawn from sphere are sources.

LEDs in general use less power so it's a bit strange that you are experiencing this problem.

 

This is what I thought in both cases....about the LEDs pulling less and also maybe everything coming from the same source. Thank you for your input....maybe have one switched to the ignition.

 

No problem but yeah try that. I ended up buying a DRL relay off eBay for like $12 and had it sitting around because I was regretting the purchase of something like this. Ended up installing some DRLs and when I installed the DRL relay with it, it worked perfectly. Been on my car for about 3 weeks now without a problem and it automatically shuts off within 30 seconds of my car being turned off.

Who knows how long that thing will last but for $12 on eBay I'm satisfied with this product lol

The LED remote has been proven to work though so you can't go wrong with that!

 

Any pictures? I'm looking at some Philips LED DRLs, the same ones used on the Camry and they are ridiculously bright that are being offered as OEM. Someone also has them installed here on their Max where he has a dimming module, and it looks awesome. I'm still not sure where I would install them, but I was thinking of installing them in the lower grille in the upper left and right corners.

 

I don't have any other close up shots than the ones I've posted....especially since I'm actually troubleshooting them at the moment.

 

I do think I will be getting XB Strips though to mount on the existing DRLs since they will match the Halos....so in a way it's a success!

 

most likely a power draw issue. you should try to have dedicated circuits for your auxiliary stuff, when you splice into factory wiring you are changing the load on that circuit which as others have found out can adversely affect the things on that circuit depending on which you use. ive come across all kinds of stuff from DRLs to other LED lighting that needed a dedicated 12v power source and if anything else was spliced into them they did not function cause some of the power was being siphoned off to the other device. if you really want to see what is going on use a voltmeter and do some point to point testing.

 

Thank you Dan, I was actually waiting on your response...no offense to everyone else since all feedback is helpful! Aren't you running the Phillips DRLs or have you changed them up? I'm going to put a higher quality DRL down there as well as add what you have recommended. Thanks again!

 

u don't really need that much lighting in the front. After about two pairs of lights it starts to look very cluttered p and super tacky. just a fyi

 

It's halos and brake duct DRLs which is two pairs dead on...both running during the day and it doesn't look cluttered at all. I know because it's very similar to Dan's setup and I'd already had it running on my own car and liked it before the flickering issue.

 

BBMaxi is right that when it's all on it does look like "alot". I run the halos during the day and DRLs at night with the headlights and turn the halos off. Good to have options.

 

That's actually what I'm shooting to do except both the DRLs on along with the halos during the day and the halos off at night....or the DRLs one or the other.

 

Your lights are probably dimming because not enough current is flowing to them. This causes the voltage to drop. When you are hooking the DRL's or any other lighting you can measure the voltage at the lights to see if it drops significantly. If that is the case you can look for a different circuit to tap into or use a relay, as others have suggested, and tap into a main for the lights power source.

 

I'll definitely be checking everything out this weekend and making the necessary adjustments....thank you for your input brother!

 

So my Phillips 4 DRLs are in as a replacement for the others....am I safe in thinking that I can wire these through the ignition rather than the parking lights? If so then which wire (color) is to our ignition?

I noticed that these are easy to wire as they come with the connector and everything but they also recommend connecting to the parking lights, which I obviously can't do!

 

HELLO

I just bought this drl bar

http://store.ijdmtoy.com/Philips-Sty...L-p/60-081.htm

and i want it to be on when the car is on, and to dim when i turn on the headlights, and to control it with a switch on/off. I found this module to dim the drls.

http://www.exledshop.com/universal-l...dule-copy.html

is this the right module for my drl?

or i just have to get a relay ?

 

I would probably consider wiring them like this person did. Only thing is he managed to get a different control module to have them work they way he wanted. I have been considering these for a while let us know how they work out.
http://forums.maxima.org/7th-generat...tructions.html

 

Yes that looks like the module you would need to do those things. You may consider asking the vendor your questions.

You may be able to do what you want with a relay but it will probably be easier just using the module.

 

Yes but what it's weird is that i dont see any fuse in between the cable. I dont want any fire on my car lol.

 

That is always a valid concern. The instructions say connect to your to your low beam or parking light wires. Those circuits already have a fuse on them. So you will be protected if the DRL circuit were to short. Generally the manufacturer instruct you to hook up in a manner that would be unsafe.

If you are still concerned you can add an in-line fuse on to the red input wire before hooking it up to to the low beam or parking light wires.

 

But ive heard that it is not necessary to install a relay when youre installing drl, also ive heard that you have to install it lol. So what would you recommend? Can i just install it with a remote switch straight to batery without any relay?

 

I just took a closer look at the instructions for the dimmer. The two red and black wires are the output to you DRL's.

For the input wires red goes to low beam or parking lights. When you turn either of those on power will be applied and the DRL's will be dimmed.

The white wire supplies the power to the DRL's from a key on or accessory power source. That circuit needs to be the fused one. Using an existing fuse or an in-line fuse that is added. Yellow and blue wire are where you hook up your manual switch.

You can use these instructions but since you are using a dimmer module you would hook up the white wire to the ACC fuse.
http://store.ijdmtoy.com/Philips-Sty...tion-a/618.htm


It does not appear that these DRL's draw enough current that a separate relay circuit is required. Otherwise I would expect the manufacturer to provide one or instruct you to use one. LED's tend to draw a small amount of current. That is one of the benefits of using them.

You could just use a remote switch going directly to the battery and not use their dimmer circuit or a relay. I would probably not spend the extra money on the dimmer circuit. The only problem with connecting directly to the battery is if you forget to turn the lights off. That is why you need to use a circuit that is turned on with the key in the accessory or key on state.

The purpose of using a relay is to allow you to use a small current to control a large current. The relay uses low current and is turned on by a relatively small switch. The contacts of the relay act as a large switch that provides power to the circuit requiring a large current. An example are the vehicles headlights. They draw a good deal of current. You cannot run that much current through the stalk on your steering wheel. In this case a relay is used.

 

Yes on one side of the module red/black goes to drl red/black. Then the other side, red goes to parking lights to dim drl.now the white wire goes to acc which is found on the fuse box, and it has a fuse already so i just tap it to one of the fuse leg right? Which means everytime i turn on the car the drls are going to be on.

Now the yellow/blue says switch in/out. How would i connect it a switch?

 

Yes you can connect to a fuse leg. Make sure you connect to the correct fuse leg. If you connect to the wrong one you will be bypassing the fuse. The way to tell is remove the fuse and check which leg has power. You want to tap the one that does not have power with the fuse removed.

One side of the switch connects to the yellow wire and the other side to the blue. I'm guessing you want the switch to be inside the car you would need to extend those wires.

 

i would like to this switch from oznium :

http://www.oznium.com/remote-switch/tech

which is remote

So i guess the red remote wires goes to yellow for the module.
and white remote wire goes to blue wire of the module right ?

Now. on the diagram for the switch ,says to install a fuse for the red wire( in) which in this case they show that is going to be connected to battery. Where would i install the fuse ? in between red/ yellow wires???

 

The fuse for the remote switch would be installed on the red wire just like it is shown in the diagram.

The problem is that the remote switch that you selected is not only a switch but also a power source.

You could use the module and this remote switch but now you would need to add a relay. The relay is what is turned on by the remote switch. The relay acts as a switch to the module. If you really have your heart set on this setup it can be done relatively easily.

You would hook up everything just as instructed on the two websites. The only difference is now you would be you have to add a 12vdc relay. The 12vdc relay coil would be connected to the output of the remote (black and white wires) instead of the LED lights that are shown in their diagram. The contacts of the relay would be wired to the yellow and blue input wires of the module.

Seems like a lot of hassle and expense just to get manual control of the dimming. how do you really want these lights to work?

To each his own but many of the DRL's out there look pretty bad. I want to install a set but want them to be bright and look OEM. Here is some good advice: http://www.hidplanet.com/forums/show...pinions-wanted

 

lol yea it's a bit complicated.

Allright , i want them to be on whenever i start the car. Then i want to have the option to turn them on/off with the car being ON. Let's say that i turn on my car and all my lights are off, i want to turn the drls off too, that's why i need the switch.

Then i also want to have them dimmable, so whenever i turn on my headlights they're going to dim , i dont want to blind anyone lol.

How can i setup it up?

 

No problem. You will hook up a 12vdc relay, the coil part, to the black and white wire output of the remote switch. You will use the remote to turn this relay on or off. For the rest or the remote unit wires just follow their instructions.

As far as the dimmer module is concerned also hook it up per the instructions. The only difference is that you need to add the relays normally closed contacts on to the white wire. This white wire provides power to the DRL's, If you activate the relay with the remote switch it will turn on. The contacts of the relay will then open and prevent power from being applied to the DRL's. Basically when you turn the remote switch on the lights will turn off.

Your remote switch is controlling a relay. A relay is a form of a switch. The relay controls the power going to the dimmer module and thus the DRL's.

 

Sounds good. Thanks bro .sorry to ask too many questions lol but im not good with relays im still reading about them to try to understand how they work. Which of these switches wouldnt require a relay?

Www.oznium.com/switches

So just the module and then control it with any of those switches

Would the first one work? The round rockr switch?

 

The round rocker switch would work just fine. Most switches would work fine. You would install it instead of the remote switch and relay. But you would have to get the wiring for the switch from the engine to the interior of the car. With the remote switch and relay you do not have to run any wiring into the interior or mount a switch.

Either one of these setups are fairly simple. Even using a relay and remote.

 

yes ill probably do that and stay away from relays. I just tested my drl and it doesnt look that bright in night time, so i guess i would connect it directly to a switch, run the cables to the interior dash, and forget about the dimmer.



the only thing i would have problem with would be the fuse size , for that i would have to calculate the amperage plus the gauge # , something like that right?

 

I would just use a 10 AMP fuse. That should provide all the protection you need.