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P0011 & P0221 Codes on 2010 Maxima

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Old Jun 19, 2017 | 06:50 PM
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P0011 & P0221 Codes on 2010 Maxima

Yesterday I changed the oil in my 2010 Maxima. I use Mobil 1 5w/30 Full synthetic. All of a sudden today, the engine idles rough and makes kind of a clanking sound. I checked the code on it and it's throwing up a P0011 which says "Cam Shaft Sensor." Also, code P0221 "Throttle Position Sensor" has come up. There was absolutely no sign of this before I changed the oil. Engine ran great; then all of sudden after the oil change, it starts this. What are the causes of these code and is it an easy fix or do I need to take to a dealer for further diagnostics, which I don't want to do if I can help it. The closest dealer is about an hour away.
Old Jun 20, 2017 | 12:15 AM
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How long was the oil not changed before this and when you hit the throttle does it move ?
Old Jun 20, 2017 | 05:03 AM
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Originally Posted by BronxSleeperMax187
How long was the oil not changed before this and when you hit the throttle does it move ?
Thanks for the response. I buy the 15,000 mile full synthetic Mobil-1 Oil. So, I changed the oil right around 15,000 miles.

Not sure what you're asking about hitting the throttle. If you mean when I hit the gas, yes, it moves. I can also rev the engine in park. I did notice also that the oil light will come and on flash when giving it gas.
Old Jun 20, 2017 | 10:52 AM
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Oil light means a discrepancy in the oil pressure. You could have a bad sensor or a weak oil pump. Anyway it is something that should get checked out. 15K oil change intervals is way beyond owners manual intervals. You should definitely shorten it up. $35 is a small price to pay to protect the engine.
Old Jun 20, 2017 | 05:17 PM
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Originally Posted by Richard66
Oil light means a discrepancy in the oil pressure. You could have a bad sensor or a weak oil pump. Anyway it is something that should get checked out. 15K oil change intervals is way beyond owners manual intervals. You should definitely shorten it up. $35 is a small price to pay to protect the engine.
What the owner's manual says is for conventional oil, not full synthetic. The label on the jug of oil clearly says 15,000 miles. That's why we pay a lot more for it. It's better stuff and lasts longer. If it says 15,000, then I shouldn't have to change my oil until then, or it's senseless to pay that much. Might as get conventional. If the product is not good for what it says, then it's false advertising and deceiving.

I need to get to the bottom of the issue and figure out exactly what these codes are for and if it's something I can fix myself. Anyone else run into this issue?
Old Jun 20, 2017 | 06:22 PM
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Well, well, well; just discovered that all my oil leaked out. I'm like how in the world did that happen??? Come to find out that when I took the old oil filter off, the rubber o-ring gasket didn't come with it. This caused the leak. Luckily the car wasn't driven far. There was still a quart of oil that I was able to drain out. That is the first time this has ever happened to me in all my years of changing oil filters. So, going to fill back up with fresh oil and hope and pray that's the cure!
Old Jun 20, 2017 | 07:26 PM
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..... and if all goes well change your oil every 3000 miles PERIOD. IF YOU WANT to see 300k on the same engine
Old Jun 20, 2017 | 07:34 PM
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Engine runs fantastic now! Thank goodness! I certainly don't mind changing the oil every 3,000 miles but what's the point in buying the expensive full synthetic 15,000 mile oil then?? Seems to be just a waste of money!
Old Jun 20, 2017 | 07:58 PM
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I buy Castro synthetic blend and stick to my schedule. My last maxima had 275k and running strong.
Add seafoam every other full up to gas, and also to oil 100 miles before change.

I stick to what I know




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