This little blurb is to identify the issues I have had with my 2009 SV to date. I was going to wait until I hit 500,000 miles but I might get more forgetful in the future. So here is is after only 365,000 miles.

First a bit about my driving habits

1. I have NEVER been WOT. I may have hit 75% once as a test but that is all.
2. I try to NOT use my brakes, driving ahead and using the CVT to downshift whenever possible (assuming no one close behind me!) I don't know what I will ever do without paddle shifters!
3. I Drive with my fingers...using the Cruise control, coast, resume, set, faster...etc. whenever possible, until I get into traffic or rain. When I first got her I thought I was going 70 and found out I was doing a lot more so started using the cruise control to be sure.
4. I tend to use the accelerator to avoid traffic rather than brake if I can. Head stays in motion on the highways to clear blind-spots (a phantom fiat on the autostrada in Italy taught me that lesson many years ago.)
5. I accelerate like I have a 4 cylinder. I save it for if I need it. (So far, only 3 times)
6. I do not speed (often) unless not doing so creates a hazard or I need to get a loved one to the hospital. I am not the guy that does 55 in the right lane when all the others are doing 80. But I will always strive to be prudent.
7. I do not drive while mad. If I am tempted to get a bit road ragey, I back off. I have only had to get out of the car once but at 6'4 230lbs (at that time) that is all I had to do.
8. Most of my mileage is highway. My daily routine is about 180 miles, with about 150 highway.

Please take all mileages as guesstimates!!! They say your brain is the 2nd thing to go and I can't remember what the first thing is.

I do most of the work myself (not body work unless specified e.g. tires, warranty work, or where $ figure is used)
Normal Maintenance
Oil Change and Filter ea 5,000 miles, with Mobil 1 5W30 and Mobile one filter
Every other oil change replaced Air Filter
Every 6 Months, replace Cabin Air Filter
Every 6 months, replace Seat Air Filter (I use the Ford F150 filter although I did wash it out the first time)
Every 6 Months, Replace Wipers with Bosch Icons
Every 75K, CVT Drain, Fill and Replace Filter

Climate Control Seat issues X 4 @ 13,000; 20,000, 35,000 and 45,000
Funny when under warranty, they couldn't fix it, but when I dropped about $1K out of warranty it has worked ever since!

25,000
Engine Cooling Fans Blade defect made it sound like a eighteen wheeler with its Jake Brake on.
Fixed under warranty

26,000
Piece of Trim from Sunroof blew off! Fixed under warranty

75,000
Finally got rid of OEM tires and onto Michelin MXV4s Yay!!!!

80,000 OEM Battery Replaced with Diehard Platinum

100,000
First Spark Plug Change They looked Pristine. Hired 2 year old to help with hose next to firewall on passenger side as my hands were too big!


125,000
Alternator Replaced About $1100 Car would start but could not move while in gear!!!

150,000
Wheel TPMS Sensor Bad, could not find tire shop who could fix or troubleshoot Nissan TPMS.
Found the white wire, grounded it to get diagnostic code, replaced Right Front TPMS Sensor and reprogrammed with the White Wire and Tire Pressure method

185,000
Second Set of Michelin MXV4s going on as am down to 4/32s in Florida Rainy Season

225,000
Replaced Rear Brake Pads
2nd Set of Plugs going in. Still look great so will wait until 375,000 to replace. My neighborhood 2 year old is too old now, how to find another with small hands for that darned hose!!!

230,000 Never found where the grease was coming from but I replaced the right Half Shaft after I saw some during an oil change. No cuts I could find so It may have been someone playing a joke on me.


275,000
Replaced Front Pads (I don't know why as they were over 50% left on them, ok, to be honest, if the rears were down that low I worried the fronts were bad....just me.)
Pulled the CVT Pan to see how much crud had accumulated...wasn't bad at all
Drained and FLUSHED and replaced Filter on CVT (only because I dropped the pan) Still using Genuine NS2

290,000 Replaced all the pulleys and tensioner as was getting cold weather squeal under 40 F.

300,000 No more Michelin MXV4s available so had to go to their new Premier AS version. Seem more noisy to me.
Replaced Battery again with another Diehard Platinum.

325,000 Got wild hair to figure out what was causing me to go thru belts so often of late. Ended up replacing Power Steering Pump Twice (1st time I couldn't go 200 miles without ripping belts to shreds, 2nd time no more belt shreds!)

340,000 Another Wild Hair and decided to replace All the Struts, ball joints and tie rod ends. Wow, what a difference. Drives like new again. The little "wandering" stopped

360,000 I had to replace the xenon bulb on the drivers side and noticed the left turn light on the drivers mirror is not working. Got to troubleshoot that next but finding parts is difficult right now.

362,000 Replaced Top Radiator hose as I noticed some Antifreeze on the Ground. Will see if that took care of it or if the Radiator needs to be replaced. Not looking forward to replacing the radiator. May have to farm that out or get with a buddy.

Incidents:
So far, 1 large Raccoon committed suicide causing the Right Front Fender and Bumper to be replaced
2 times Road Alligators did somewhat the same damage at night (but without the hair) 1 time the Ballast and Headlight had to be replaced as a result of the damage!
1 Time a large bag of concrete was in the #2 lane (of 4) on I-95 and I found it. Fortunately, found a local magician who straightened and balanced my wheel like new. Once on #3 lane of I-95 and once on #2 lane on the Florida Turnpike
1 Time I was showing off the backup camera how it would guide me to my spot...unless a tree is hanging out at right angles above the site of the camera...DOH my bad and my hubris and $400 for a tail light out of MY POCKET!!
1 Time a nice older lady (Probably Older than LightOnTheHill) saw the sign to "Turn here for the Turnpike" and did just as the sign said....she just forgot to change lanes to the right turn lanes first and clear her mirrors and ended up in my left rear quarter panel (Yep I read the same sign but was already in the right turn only lane.) Gonna have to get that sign changed! I had stepped on a rock the day before and when I got out of the car limping, you could almost see her go into shock she was so upset. Took a few minutes to explain that I had a stone bruise on my heel and she didn't hurt me at all. Road Cam showed her insurance company what happened and got it sorted relatively quickly.


What I need to take care of (non mechanical)

She is starting to tell her old age as my seat I payed $1K for is now peeling and torn (I call it well worn) as is the carpet where a friend had her nice high heel dug in right where my shoe sets!
The center console lid is also showing wear and needs replacement where my right arm elbow rests.
The Weather Stripping behind the Moon/Sunroof is literally falling apart..crumbling.
And now getting some paint starting to oxidize on the horizontal surfaces.

Hope this amuses, educate or just gives you a break from the mundane.

Lt

 

Wow - quite the high mileage. Where in FL are you? I just moved to the Miami area and can't find a mechanic I trust yet. Would you be willing to help change the spark plugs on mine? It seems too much for me with having to remove the intake manifold and so forth...

 

I live west of Orlando so quite a trip to change plugs. I know there are some folks on the forum that live much closer and could lend a hand or help you find a reputable mechanic.

Welcome to Florida and the forum!

 

Great write up Lt. Leary. Glad to see you are still driving the Maxima. I sent you a PM earlier today, then later came across this thread. Still driving mine. I just changed my original set of factory tires today. It currently has 77k miles on it. So, if I get the same mileage out of these tires, I'll be happy about that. Weird about the alternator. $1100 is what the alternator costs!?!?! Is that at the dealer?

 

Thank you!

 

Same thing happened to me, except I made it to 148,000 miles, and mine was also ~$1100 to replace (worth it to save me the semi-nightmare of removing the alternator).

I experienced the same issue, turns out a diode was stuck so the voltage wasn't being regulated from the alternator. At idle it was pumping out 19.8v and at higher RPMs it got up to 22.4v, I imagine the ECU probably shut off along with a lot of my other electronics so they didn't burn up from the overvoltage. I got my car to the dealer by disconnecting from the battery the wire that goes to the starter/alternator and I was able to drive it there on battery (short 10mi trip luckily).

There were some odd signs before the alternator failed. Initially I noticed some days it was hard to start, even after a long drive. I then got one of those cheap cigarette lighter usb chargers that had a voltage readout. Alternator would be at charging voltage on initial startup (~14.4v), after driving for about 10min, the voltage dropped below charging/floating to (~13.0v). Once I put the car in reverse it's back up to charging voltage (probably the weirdest thing I've seen).

 

Just an update: Over the Holiday break, I replace the plugs for the 3rd time, this time at 376,000. That is 150K on this set of plugs....and they still looked great! But as I only expect to have her until 500K, this will most likely be the last time.

While I was in there I went ahead and changed out the pcv valve and every vacuum line I could find. (I was starting to get some p0171 and 174 codes) So far, no more codes.

I regret to inform everyone that I did end up getting the radiator replaced at 360K. Outsourced that job. I still think there is a leak somewhere, but I didn't see it. The only thing I noticed was some "corrosion" on the throttle body inlets that was most likely caused by some leaking, but I couldn't find it. At least the leak is much slower than before.

I decided I would go ahead and get her painted...at least the horizontal parts. The body shop guy that did all the work from Suicidal Raccoons to road alligators gave me a guesstimate of 1k. Gonna have to get that scheduled as I don't like looking at the oxidation or the decaying rubber.

 

I too just recently moved to Miami: need some help with a trusty mechanic or someone to help me out for a day project

I need a bit of help replacing my rear struts. There appears to be some fluid leaking from the left rear. I thought that they are gas based so not sure what is leaking from it. I noticed on a turn on a highway of I hit a bump, the car fishtails slightly. I would want to replace both rears together. (Should I replace struts and springs or just the struts). Not sure what will be easier and quicker.

Or does anyone know of a good shop? Not a stealership and someone that actually knows what they are doing. I had a great shop in Maryland that I would go to where they would work only on Nissans and tune them as well. They had plenty of GTRs and Zs there, so I could trust them. So far in Miami I have been surprised by the shops here, had one guy almost drop the Maxima off the lift for an oil change (I nearly had a heart attack).

I am also due for new spark plugs...

 

Rears are just shocks Alex Kay, find a buddy and you probably wont go through 2 beers and you'll be done. I did them myself in less than an hour and a half.

 

Wow, I assumed they were like the front (you know what happens when we assume). I looked it up, and you are right, the rear shocks look easy to replace. I just ordered new ones, will do this one myself.

Now I have the better question, what in the world was the mechanic saying I had a leaking rear strut??? Isnt it just gas inside? What would be leaking? I'm going to replace them anyway because of the slight fishtail that I noticed on the highway at turns, but want to know if the mechanic was just being an [expletive].

 

I would not worry about his verbiage, my rear shocks leaked oil when they kicked the bucket.

 

On my 10 Maxima SV, i'm at 201,000 miles and my ninth wheel bearing Besides normal maintenance and a few things here and there, that has been my only gripe about the car!

 

Out of curiosity those 9 replacement bearings all go into the same wheel? Did you use the same bearing manufacturer? and did the same person do all the changes?

 

Wow. No timing chain tensioner or chain change until so high of a mileage? No rattle or just let it ride?

 

All my wheel bearings on my car have been replaced at least twice. I've had different manufactures because I've had three different places change them.

 

No issues with the timing chain at all. Now at 406,000 miles. Engine is still smooth and quiet.

 

No issues with wheel bearings so far, but because I want to be proactive, I just bought all 4 and will install them on a cool day. Plus it should be a nice project and will let me see how the brake pads are holding up
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400,000 Miles

 

Finally got around to posting this. Pulled over to the side of the road as I hit 400,000 miles

 

wow..26.3
56.4? how did you get them numbers? geez..

 

Mainly highway. Was low because of city driving i did and long lines at Starbucks with AC on.

 

26 hwy is low for you?

I avg 20. Period. Mixed driving. Maybe avg speed of 60. Whether Veterans 589 or US19 north and south (the only directions to travel in FL) Tampa to Hernando.

 

Yep, normally 429 to turnpike to 192 to Melbourne and back. With ac off 31 and with on 27

 

Amazing. Have you ever replaced the coolant? or the waterpump?

 

Coolant, yes. Water pump no.

 

Wow again, I had heard or read that the VQ35DE water pumps should be replaced at 150,000 miles...but I see you might make me rethink that idea!

 

The Lt is the poster child for "things last for as long as you take care of them".

 

In your OP, you mention you change CVT fluid and filter every 75k miles, you still use the same interval?

 

Approx...+- 10K

 

Makes sense, since you're almost exclusively drive interstate and high way. I'd think 20k to 25k is more appropriate for us urban dwellers with a lot of stop and go...

 

You hit on it on the head....whatever your maintenance plan (and not the absence of one)...stick to it. 30, 60, 90. It is YOUR ride and YOUR responsibility. My departed father in law was great at having some of the most shiny, clean looking cars on the road but couldn't get 40K out of a car as he never did "real maintenance" like changing oil, or air filters, or even keeping tires properly inflated. So his daughter and I have had a few discussions on what is more important!

 

Hiya LtLeary! Thanks for your info in the past I am following a care schedule similar to yours.
I had a question about changing CVT fluid and filter. Do you measure what you drain out and just refill with same amount?
How much fluid does the filter hold? It looks like it could be half a cup or so. Also do you need to have engine running when checking the CVT fluid level?
I can never seem to get a very accurate reading on the dipstick.

Also has anyone used Aisin NS-2 fluid? It is less than 8 bucks a quart on www.rockauto.com

 

While waiting for LtLeary to chime in, it's important to determine the CVT fluid level PRIOR to changing process.

If level was perfect before change, then you have to exactly measure how much came out and put back exactly the same amount.

In my 09, dealer overfilled my CVT, I knew that because I check it the next day and level was way above the crosshatched area on disptick when car was fully warmed up (car on level ground, trans temp above 122, engine running and on P, after moving lever in all shifter positions). I was about to do another drain and refill in a month, drained exactly 5.1 quarts but put back 4.5. That brought level down but I think I still need to consider a half quart less ( that what will come out) in my next service.

I have a Bluetooth OBD dongle and can get live trans temp. FSM calls for checking fluid between 122F and 170F (operating temp). In a 50F day, it takes A WHILE driving to get transmission to that range. Like around half an hour in stop and go traffic in my experience.

 

I use the same mechanism. I get close by eyeballing the amount coming out (my drainpan has cross marks for amounts) and then get the transmission warmed up (i too find about .5 hour sufficient) and then on level ground, check and add appropriate amount (usually, within .5 quart) Don't forget when warm to cycle thru all the gears. I ALWAYS check the level afterward and a week later.

 

Thanks so much for your help guys! I have not done the service myself yet it was done when I bought the car along with oil. I have only put 12K miles on it so I have a ways to go before it needs service.
I got a new Trans oil cooler the one that goes behind the driver's side wheel. I was wondering how much it holds? I am planning on swapping in the new one when I do drain and fill. Does it hold a decent amount that you need to save and put in with the rest to measure and make sure I don't lose any? What is the tolerance on being over/under filled for the CVT? For oil I was always told a half quart over or under is ok.

Also how hard is it to change the sway bar bushings? I can't seem to find any info on doing it. And tie rod bushings? Can you replace them or do you need to buy new outer tie rods? My outer tie rod bushings are getting a little hard and deformed.

I just put in a new PCV valve yesterday just for piece of mind. It had probably never been done in the car's life. I also put on new rotors and brake pads front and rear.

 

Was the PCV process a straight forward one? Thinking to get mine done, maybe it will slow down the 2k miles 1/4 quart oil burning!

 

Yes it is very easy! Took me 10 mins just used an adjustable wrench to remove the valve and hose clamp tool or needle nose to get the hose off and back on.
There is not that much room but a 5 or 6 inch wrench was able to fit in there.

Before I changed it I was burning about half a quart in 4k miles.

 

I just replaced my valve covers a month or so back (I had a minor leak so I had to go nuclear) and just as an FYI, the new cover came with an oem PCV valve. But to the point, I normally replace my PCV valve every year...probably overkill, but easy to do.

 

Sway bars bushing in the rear are pretty easy, front more complex. Re tie rod bushings???? I am not sure what that is. The outer tie rods are easy and inexpensive. Cost more for an alignment afterwards. Inner tie rods are a pain in the rear but can be done with a little (lot!) patience.

 

Hello I bought a 2010 max sv with 147k on it. I called the Nissan dealers to see if it’s ever had a flush or tranny service and last service was at 50k. Should I do a full flush, a fluid change, or drain 2 quarts at a time and drive a couple hundred miles in between? The advice would be great thanks. The dealership told me it’s overdue for a flush but I don’t know the service history and don’t want it to ruin it when it’s working fine right now. Thanks