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First of all I want to say that you guys have a great group here! I've searched for the issue in the threads for the last couple hours and have found some great ideas to try. Unfortunately, none of them have worked....yet.
My wife has a 2012 Maxima S (60,048 miles). We bought it in 2013 with 10,100 miles. It has really been a great car for her. Besides a wheel bearing I had to replace last summer, the car has been flawless. And, it's a lot more fun to drive then my truck.
She stopped at a gas station yesterday and the car would not start. It acted like a dead battery. I came over to jump her in my truck (2016 Silverado). When I hooked up the cables the lights came on and looked like it would start. When I hit the start button in just clicked, like it didn't have enough juice yet. I let it sit there hooked up for a few more minutes and when I tried it again it just kept clicking. I went over and revved my truck up to spin the alternator faster and the fan in her car just started. I went to try to start her car but it just shut everything off. It wouldn't try to start anymore. With my foot on the brake it would cycle through ACC, then ON (the fan would turn on) then I hit the start button again and it would just shut everything off. We had to have it towed home.
After getting it home and looking through the threads I figured it might be the brake switch. It did the same sequence when I had my foot on or off the brake. Replaced the brake switch, nothing.
Her battery was testing ok (12.44) But, everyone says replace the junk manufacturer battery. I bought a new Duracell battery from BatteriesPlus. It was the only place that was open except for Wal-mart.
Im still having the same issue. The car never tries to start. It just goes from Lock, ACC, ON, then shuts everything off again and beeps at me until I hit the lock button. All the gauges, interior, head and brake lights work normally.
It is not the steering wheel lock issue. The car doesn't have the module or the fuse.
Any help is greatly appreciated!!
Last edited by Happytobehere; 03-31-2018 at 09:04 AM.
There is plenty of threads on the steering lock and how to fix it temporarly until you can get that fuse pulled, if that is your problem. Also Nissan issued a recall to fix this problem.
There is plenty of threads on the steering lock and how to fix it temporarly until you can get that fuse pulled, if that is your problem. Also Nissan issued a recall to fix this problem.
I tried that first but then I read that they stopped installing the steering wheel locks starting in 2012 It doesn't have the steering wheel lock module The fuse was never installed
Hey All,
New to the forum but hopefully i can help.
Had the same issue with my 09 where everything was normal but she just wouldn't start.
Long story short, after a quick search while trying to figure out what was wrong, i found this video:
PS: Don't "wack" the module like the guy says. A few light taps should work..
Took about 10 minutes to get every thing apart, tapped the controller and she started right up. Unfortunately it didn't last long, 2-3 days tops.
Module is around $800 to replace at the stealership...
Hope this helps!
-Evil
Last edited by EvilNYEmpire; 04-13-2018 at 01:01 PM.
My question are his cars symptoms similar to what you have seen?
The car acts as if the battery is dead (dads battery is new);
lights all go off
dash lights off
can only get power if jumped
jumper cables hooked up and lights come on but when trying to start it acts like its not getting enough power as the starter solenoid clicks rapidly BUT the dash lights (all the lights really) flicker as well so its like a total car wide inadequate power flow
does that part interrupt power all over the car? even with a fully charged battery? because ALL the lights go off. why would jumping override this failure if it is the interlock? seems more like power isn’t getting from the battery to the components but this car IS more advanced than anything I’ve worked on so just curious
03-30-2018, 08:23 PM
