The information display on my 2014 recently stopped working I suspected a bad connection. I removed the gauge cluster and found the ribbon connector, located at the rear of the cluster, This ribbon connects the small LCD display to the cluster.
Because it is pretty cheap and flimsy this connector can come loose and cause the display to not work at all or not work properly. I just removed the plastic connector and reseated it and the ribbon cable. The display now works fine. I'm willing to bet this is the cause of the majority of the problems with this display. Removing the cluster is a surprisingly easy job. I think most people could do this repair in 30-60 minutes.
I would not be surprised if other Nissan vehicles such as the Altima have the same issue.
Hi Nopike. I believe what you are talking about is exactly what I happening to my 2012. Please see the images below. The information display is blank, but it is backlit, and that back lighting is not residual as you can see between the first and second image. Is this the issue you had? I had been searching forums and was nervous that they would have to replace the entire cluster (read: $$$$).
You say the job was surprisingly easy, but easy is a relative term. I just want to make sure I'm not going to mess anything else up. So, my question is: where can I find more info with how-to steps and pictures on how to get this job done?
Yes that is the same thing that happened to my display. The instructions, although relatively simple, make it look more complicated then it really is. If you work slowly and carefully there really is not much you can screw up. I think I had to remove a total of 5 or 6 screws to get the display out You may have to remove a couple of connectors. Sorry but I did not take detailed pictures. If you need more information let me know or PM me if you like.
You can access the service manuals in the links below.
Actually page IP10 is probably a better guide than the instructions provided above.
1) Remove #5 Instrument side finisher and #8 fuse box cover.
2) Remove lower panel #7 (remove one screw and then pull out the panel).
3) This will allow you to get at Cluster lid A #22 (remove two screws and pull out the lid).
4) This will allow you to get at #15 Combination meter (remove 3 screws).
If I remember correctly I removed the connectors and totally removed the lower panel #7. The cluster lid A #22 I think I just kind of let it hang there just so I could access the combination meter screws. Of course be careful not to scratch anything, a towel may come in handy.
Once you get the combination meter out use long nose pliers or something similar to remove the small plastic piece holding the ribbon cable in place. Push the ribbon cable into position and reinstall the plastic piece. After you do that hook up your cluster and test it before you put everything together again.
Take some pictures of your work and post them here to help others if you like.
Take some pictures of your work and post them here to help others if you like.
Absolutely. Before I give this a shot, I need to wait for the weather to get a bit less aggressive. I'll edit this post with pictures once I get it done. Thanks so much!
Well, we finally got some near-freezing temps on a sunny day that allowed me to be outside for a while. Nopike was correct on two fronts: the fix worked and the entire job took about 30 minutes. So, an absolutely huge thanks; you saved me at least $1,000! I should mention that, much to my disappointment, this fix did not work immediately; however, my Information Display came back online after about 30 minutes of driving. It could have something to do with how I placed the Information Display's ribbon cable (see below). Admittedly, I was a bit nervous before starting, but I think most anyone can tackle this job. As a reference, I’m handy, but have no experience with anything auto-related. Pictures are posted in the next post (the first and last pictures were taken just over a month apart). Below is a description of the steps I followed to complete the job.
Tools
1) Standard (flathead) screwdriver
2) Philips screwdriver (8” or longer)
3) Needle-nose pliers
4) Hand towel or t-shirt
Instructions. Note parentheses indicate the part number on page IP-10, whereas the brackets indicate the document page numbers
1) Move the steering wheel to middle-lower position. I didn’t, but it would have made getting at the Combination Meter screws easier.
2) Disconnect the battery
3) Remove the Instrument Side Finisher (5) [IP-16]. It pops off with standard screwdriver and gentle pressure.
4) Remove the Fuse Block Cover (8) [IP-16]. It just pulls off.
5) Remove the Instrument Lower Panel (7) [IP-16]. There is one screw you’ll see after removing Fuse Block Cover. There are also three metal clips near top (two left; one right) that pop off with a gentle pull. I let the Instrument Lower Panel hang gently, but you could (optionally) completely remove the Instrument Lower Panel by disconnecting the harness connectors and aspirator hose.
7) Remove Cluster Lid A (22) [IP-16]. There are two screws near the bottom and four metal clips evenly spaced at top that pop off with a gentle pull. I just let it hang over the center console.
8) Place a towel or t-shirt on top of the steering column to prevent scratches and remove the Combination Meter (15) [MWI-122]. There are three screws (bottom left, bottom right, top middle). I completely removed the Combination Meter by disconnecting both wire harnesses. I did the rest of the job inside the house.
8) On the back of the Combination Meter, identify gold ribbon cable for Information Center (bottom, middle). Using a needle-nose pliers, I removed the long, tan plastic piece holding ribbon cable. I then placed the ribbon cable back into position (there will be leeway left and right) and reinstalled the long, tan plastic piece that holds the ribbon cable.
9) Reassemble by following steps 1-7 in backwards order.
Good job.. Congratulations on getting it fixed. I know how annoying it can be to not have that display functioning.
I'm surprised it took 30 minutes to work after you reassembled everything. That probably means you may need to realign it in the future if it goes out. Mine started working as soon as I reinstalled the cluster. It has not failed in the six months since I repaired it. I also did not disconnect the battery so I was able to test the display before I put everything back together. I think that ribbon connection is an issue only if it is not properly aligned. Once it is properly aligned it should not fail again.
Glad to have found this thread. I have had the screen go out and come back a couple times in the last year. Looks like I have a good guide to help when the time comes.
Thank you! My display did this mid-drive yesterday and it was really bothering me. This thread was immensly helpful and I was able to complete the repair in about 25 minutes.
I did not disconnect the battery, and did test once before putting everything back together, I'm glad I did because the ribbon was still not seated properly. I simply pulled i out, re-seated it, wiggling it left and right and pinning it with the tan plastic connector and it worked perfectly.
I am not particularly savvy with doing my own car repairs and this was easy even for me, don't be scared to try it yourself!
Thanks for the info. my 2012 Nissan Altima had the same problem. Followed you info and it works fine. Did not remove the battery cable, only took 20 minutes to get the dash apart and reset the ribbon cable. Easiest fix I've ever done on a car.
Glad to hear this thread is helping others. The dealer would probably just change the entire cluster and keep the car at least one day so they can program the new cluster. Lots of money when not performed under warranty.
2013 Nissan Maxima digital information display not working
I have a 2013 Nissan Maxima (only 6 years old) and had the same issue. I removed the dash cover and screws holding the cluster, then removed and reinstalled the ribbon cable (not the harmed connecting the cluster to the vehicle) on the back of the cluster and is now working. I can’t believe I went this long without the information display working. Total time to perform repair was less then 30 minutes. Bet mechanics replace the cluster with new ones then the new cluster works and they charge $$$$.
Hope this helps and keeps others from spending $$$$ for a new or used cluster.
Also, hope Nissan is listening.
Another satisfied customer. Glad to hear it.
Nissan would keep your car for a couple of days and charge hundreds for a new cluster. Cheap and easy is not in their interests.
Another satisfied customer. Glad to hear it.
Nissan would keep your car for a couple of days and charge hundreds for a new cluster. Cheap and easy is not in their interests.
I’m not so sure Nissan dealerships are keeping vehicles intentionally and charging people for repairs that don’t need to be made. I don’t think the mechanics know what is causing the issue with the information display. Most mechanics are probably taught to replace defective items rather then attempt to repair them and that may be due to liability. I worked on computers for years and one of the thing I was taught when going through training and school was the ribbon cables can become loose or loose connection when supercritical to vibration. I believe vibration caused by the road may be causing the issue. Maybe a dab of silicon or some kind of glue would prevent the issue from occurring. Maybe a new design other then a cheap ribbon cable would prevent it from occurring. I believe Nissan Corp (Quality Control) is the party responsible for all those who have had to send their vehicles to Nissan Service, wait several days for their vehicles to be repaired under warranty and some having to spend $$$$ for replacement cluster when all they needed were to have the ribbon cable at the rear of the cluster removed and reset.
I sent screen shots of this doin to someone at Nissan who said he will bring this up to Nissans attention.
The illuminated master warning indicator (exclamation point inside a triangle) on my daughter's 2012 Maxima had been troubling me for a few weeks. Owner’s manual says to reference the vehicle information display which had been non-functional for even longer. Stumbled upon this thread and got courageous since my daughter was about to undertake a longish trip.
Who'd have guessed the instrument cluster could be removed, the ribbon cable re-seated, and everything put back in place in 30 minutes -- by a true novice mechanic. Who'd have guessed the repair would cost $0.
Thanks for the detailed instructions and the words of encouragement. I wouldn't have undertaken the repair otherwise. BTW, the master warning light reset as well.
I'd like to contribute to the collective knowledge but it seems you guys have already done a superlative job describing and illustrating the repair. FYI, I also pulled the cluster connectors without disconnecting the battery. I found a small flat blade screwdriver works great to push on the latch that secures the wiring connector to the gauges and also to nudge the ribbon cable latch off its connector. I was tempted to try and clean the ribbon cable but in the end just re-seated as recommended. It all seemed too simple. The side finisher cover was the most daunting since it commits you to the project and doesn't immediately cry out "pull here". I gently pried it at the front with a small putty knife until I could get a finger hold. The cover needs to be pulled far enough out at the front to be able to clear the protruding clips while the back part flexes a bit where it slips beneath another piece of plastic. The display worked the moment I pressed the ignition.
Great job everyone unfortunately for me this fix didn't work. Oh well we can't win them all. I guess it's a $1k fix for me. Also was told by dealer that this unit would require a flashing....smh
What is your cluster/display doing? This should fix any issues with the information display. It will probably not fix issues with the rest of the cluster. If your information display is doing what is shown in the photos this should fix it. Lining up the ribbon connector properly can be a bit tricky. It may take more than one try.
Great job everyone unfortunately for me this fix didn't work. Oh well we can't win them all. I guess it's a $1k fix for me. Also was told by dealer that this unit would require a flashing....smh
Sometimes it isn't just a bad connection, it's a bad cluster. Dealership prices can be pretty steep, but the clusters need to be reprogrammed for the VIN.
I'd recommend calling the folks at https://www.instrumentclusterstore.c...t_clusters.htm because I'm sure they're going to beat the dealer prices by a lot.
Mine's been out at least a year, the dealership told me it'd be upwards of $1200-1400+ to replace the entire cluster, so i decided the cosmetic luxury wasn't worth it. Thank God because it just randomly started working again last week and now that I'm looking into it I am so sure this is the issue. It turned off again today, the display started kinda looking like it was dimming/getting lines in it like an old tv or comp monitor during the heat of the day, (car also has tranny issues when it's hot and i live in Florida) thought it might have been affected by the heat initially or bad/corroded battery connection. But I feel really confident that this is the actual issue. I'm not mechanically inclined but these instructions seem simple enough and I'm determined. Thanks everyone that contributed in advance.
Mine went out for months then started working again for a year. When it went out a second time I ended up doing this fix. I'm pretty certain that this is the issue with your display. Just follow the instructions, work slowly and you should not have any issues with the repair. In the end you will be surprised how easy it went. Thanks for posting and let us know how things turn out. .
My information display went black and will not show, it has the background white light that still shows but no info displayed, any info instead of taking it to nissan?
Does your display look like the photos showing just the backlight on? Do the fix spelled out in this thread. If you can't do it yourself find someone "handy" to do it for you. I would not bother with a dealer unless you want to spend $1000 to fix it.
Yes mines is exactly the same. I call the dealer he told me they don't know anything about that and they can only replace the cluster itself which is 1000+ smh
Yes The instructions are pretty good. If you follow them carefully you will not have any problems. In the end you will be surprised how simple it is. Let us know how it goes.
Yes The instructions are pretty good. If you follow them carefully you will not have any problems. In the end you will be surprised how simple it is. Let us know how it goes.
Do you happen to have the part # for the ribbon connector? Trying to find part and get pricing.
You don't need to replace the ribbon connector to make this fix just re-seat it per the instructions. I think the connector is soldered at one end you don't want to deal with that.
I successfully completed this repair so add me to the list of grateful beneficiaries of this thread. However, when I started to reinstall the lower cover I noticed the pictured pieces of plastic laying on the cover. Does anyone know what they are?
the one that looks like a lid is about 1”. The other looks like maybe a keeper or clamp? I thought maybe from the aspiration hose, but I didn’t notice either of them when I took it apart, and nothing ever felt like it broke. Everything seems to work. Wondering if they are needed?
Great question...when I did this repair about a year and a half ago, I had the same thing happen...just one "cap" though, not one plus some like you got. I looked all up under the wheel and couldn't figure out where it came from, and now obviously it's been some time with it gone and everything has worked 100%. Curious as well if someone can chime in who knows what this is.
