Lol, no doubt, enjoy the night my dude, let us know how you make out wit the car. Be safe

 

Yessir! Thanks. And will do.

 

Just had this issue back in September and it was the alternator.

 

Yeah, it’s happening more frequently now. I’m finally taking her in tomorrow.

 

Update: I had the alternator replaced on Wednesday, drove it home and later left to go get food. No issues. Didn't drive it yesterday. I get up this morning for work, about a 30 minute drive and about 5 minutes in the brake and battery light came back on and stayed on the entire way. I should also say I didn't take it to the guy who was going to do it for $630. I took it to a friend of mines shop. And right now I'm thinking he just changed the alternator and didn't really even check it for anything else. Sooooo pissed right now. But if it wasn't the alternator, what could this be?

 

Did you ever check for stored codes? Is the alternator new or rebuilt?

 

No I didn't check for stored codes. Forgive my ignorance but I don't even know what that is. I mean I know what codes are but I guess the word stored it throwing me off. It's a new alternator.

 

OK, the theory of operation behind our 7th gen alternators is a bit different from that of old. PIN 4 on the connection to the Alternator is from the IPDM module which regulates whither we are charging or not. However, if you remove that pin the alternator works like an alternator of old. You may want to try that to see if you have a connector or IPDM issue. Either way, should help point a direction to check next. (Assumes a good alternator was installed) Also please remove your cables to the battery and whatever grounds you have and clean them well. Hi Z can lead to a lot of issues.

 

Do you have a multimeter? If not, go back to the mechanic who replaced the alternator and do some testing. Confirm it's good. I've replaced an alternator before only to received a bad "new" alternator.
With the car off, the battery should read between 12.5 and 12.8 volts. With the car running, see what the voltage reading is at the battery with no accessories on. Then turn on everything... ie heat, headlights, radio, air conditioning etc and then look at the voltage reading on the multimeter. The voltage should read a minimum of 13 volts. A good alternator should put out between 13.5-14.5 volts even when stress tested. Anything higher indicates a problem as well.

Tons of videos on Youtube demonstrating how to test an alternator.

 

Good info. Thanks Lt. and Wizard. The guy who changed the alternator is a friend with a little mom and pop shop. I have it at another shop right now getting diagnostics and what not.

 

So, I just heard back from the shop and they said the alternator that was just put in is bad and needs to be replaced. Has anyone else had this happen? Man, the alternator on this car is in a crappy spot too. It's alot of work. I just called the guy who put it in and he's gonna go pick it up and put another one in tomorrow.

 

It happens man, this isn't unheard of. Aftermarket and rebuilt alternators some of the time are hit or miss. Let us know how you make out.

 

.......

 

yeah, it happens, not often, but enough that The Wizard and I mentiomed the possibility..

 

Thanks guys. I'll update after round two.

 

Final update. Turns out it was an electrical issue. The wires from the alternator were burnt out. I am back on the road and good to go.

 

Fire that mechanic.

 

Lol! Yes.