Nah I'm not close to $1400. I've spent maybe 1.5 hours total troubleshooting it. Haven't bought anything for it yet. Maybe if I had to replace alternator and battery, and if you count the hours I would spend doing it. But I don't count that, as I enjoy working in my cars anyway.

By charging voltage you mean what is it charging at when the car is running? About 14.5v. Honestly think the alternator is still OK.

By the way, I got it out of park. Something stupid of course. The one fuse I checked on the interior fuse box was the brake light fuse, and because of how tight it was, I accidentally put it back into a different empty slot. So because the brake lights weren't working, it wouldn't let me go out of park. Anyway, now that I can drive it again, I can get it to best buy and they can check their wiring out. I'll keep you all posted.

 

Ok so the guy at Best Buy completely disabled the remote start system, pulled every fuse, and the system is still drawing about 800mA. So yeah now I'm not sure what to do. I told him to leave the remote start disabled for now while I try to troubleshoot it some more. Any other ideas would be appreciated lol. Obvioiusly I'm going to do my own test now and pull the fuses again to see what I see, but I was there for some of the time he was doing it, he was doing exactly what I would have done, seemed to know what he was doing.

 

Well at least you cut it in half removing the Compustar. But why was it drawing so much? Weeding through someone else's electrical hackery is always a pain in the ***. I'd rather wire an entire track car from start to finish. Start with a proper parasitic draw test on the under-hood fuse box. Pop the hood, clamp the hood switch, close all the doors, get your meter in series and wait an hour or so for the car to go completely to sleep then pull fuses.

 

Well no, the remote start system wasn't drawing anything out of the ordinary. It was drawing the same power after they removed it as it was when it was hooked up. (within reason of course, it does draw a tiny bit obviously.) When I reported it was drawing close to 2 amps, that was pretty much only when I would first hook it up. (using the very video you posted) After a minute or so, it would go down to less than an amp. So by removing the remote start, we've just narrowed down that it was not the cause of the draw. But after I solve this, I do plan on hooking it back up and making sure it's not drawing anything extra.

But yes, when I get it back, I plan on doing exactly as you said, and hooking it up and pulling each fuse again. I've already tried all the fuses in the engine bay. I'll move on to the ones in the cabin and try those.

 

Cool. Let us know.

 

Great job User1 . Do you know how to read a wiring diagram?

 

What is a wiring diagram?