I recently got my new rack and pinion replaced and the VDC,SLIP light came on.
Then I just changed both my lower control arms and now the BRAKE, ABS,KEY lights are also ON. Brake fluid levels are good... replaced again the Speed Senors. Everything looks good but all the lights are ON. All this happened once I replaced the Rack & PinionNEED HELP PLZ
Then I just changed both my lower control arms and now the BRAKE, ABS,KEY lights are also ON. Brake fluid levels are good... replaced again the Speed Senors. Everything looks good but all the lights are ON. All this happened once I replaced the Rack & PinionNEED HELP PLZ
Senior Member
OK, the key thing I note is you replaced the rack and pinion which means you also probably disconnected the Steering Angle Sensor (if not more) First, ensure this is connected securely and correctly and you see good voltages at the connectors. According to service data, this will cause ABS/VDC codes to occur.
Next, once again according to service data, you need to perform a Steering Angle Sensor Alignment (Service Data says it must be with Consult III but I ASSUME a modern full feature scan tool can do this but have never tried.) After that is completed, you erase the codes from the ECM/ABS modules (yes, according to service data you will get ABS/VDC alerts and must reset the codes) and then drive over 30kph (about 20mph) for at least 1 min.
Any leftover codes should be discreet codes (e.g. a wheel sensor open/shorted)
Please let us know your progress and any other indications or codes you get.
Lt
Next, once again according to service data, you need to perform a Steering Angle Sensor Alignment (Service Data says it must be with Consult III but I ASSUME a modern full feature scan tool can do this but have never tried.) After that is completed, you erase the codes from the ECM/ABS modules (yes, according to service data you will get ABS/VDC alerts and must reset the codes) and then drive over 30kph (about 20mph) for at least 1 min.
Any leftover codes should be discreet codes (e.g. a wheel sensor open/shorted)
Please let us know your progress and any other indications or codes you get.
Lt
Now the service light is on...and the speed needles doesn't move when I'm driving. Turn the car off and restart it's fine when I drive but once all the lights pop up... Needle stops working
I'm waiting for my dad's electrical mechanic to have a chance to look at my car ..it's frustrating...car driving fine it's all the Damn lights
I'm waiting for my dad's electrical mechanic to have a chance to look at my car ..it's frustrating...car driving fine it's all the Damn lights
Lights ON after new rack and pinion replacement
So why checking the Alternator if what was replaced was Rack and Pinion??
All so Check Engine Light is ON plus when all the lights turn ON my Mph Needle Stops Working
Quote:
Haven't had the Alternator tested...but my car starts up fineOriginally Posted by MaximusN8
Have you had the alternator tested?
[QUOTE=LtLeary;9250499]OK, the key thing I note is you replaced the rack and pinion which means you also probably disconnected the Steering Angle Sensor (if not more) First, ensure this is connected securely and correctly and you see good voltages at the connectors. According to service data, this will cause ABS/VDC codes to occur.
Next, once again according to service data, you need to perform a Steering Angle Sensor Alignment (Service Data says it must be with Consult III but I ASSUME a modern full feature scan tool can do this but have never tried.) After that is completed, you erase the codes from the ECM/ABS modules (yes, according to service data you will get ABS/VDC alerts and must reset the codes) and then drive over 30kph (about 20mph) for at least 1 min.
Any leftover codes should be discreet codes (e.g. a wheel sensor open/shorted)
Please let us know your progress and any other indications or codes you get.
Lt
I'm still waiting for my dad's friend that works on car electrical issues to have time for my Car.
Next, once again according to service data, you need to perform a Steering Angle Sensor Alignment (Service Data says it must be with Consult III but I ASSUME a modern full feature scan tool can do this but have never tried.) After that is completed, you erase the codes from the ECM/ABS modules (yes, according to service data you will get ABS/VDC alerts and must reset the codes) and then drive over 30kph (about 20mph) for at least 1 min.
Any leftover codes should be discreet codes (e.g. a wheel sensor open/shorted)
Please let us know your progress and any other indications or codes you get.
Lt
I'm still waiting for my dad's friend that works on car electrical issues to have time for my Car.
Senior Member
Thanks for the update. Please let us know how it goes. BTW our 7th gens are very sensitive to voltage spikes so getting the alternator checked is a good idea while you have the "electrical" tools at your disposal.
Quote:
Next, once again according to service data, you need to perform a Steering Angle Sensor Alignment (Service Data says it must be with Consult III but I ASSUME a modern full feature scan tool can do this but have never tried.) After that is completed, you erase the codes from the ECM/ABS modules (yes, according to service data you will get ABS/VDC alerts and must reset the codes) and then drive over 30kph (about 20mph) for at least 1 min.
Any leftover codes should be discreet codes (e.g. a wheel sensor open/shorted)
Please let us know your progress and any other indications or codes you get.
Lt
Originally Posted by LtLeary
OK, the key thing I note is you replaced the rack and pinion which means you also probably disconnected the Steering Angle Sensor (if not more) First, ensure this is connected securely and correctly and you see good voltages at the connectors. According to service data, this will cause ABS/VDC codes to occur.Next, once again according to service data, you need to perform a Steering Angle Sensor Alignment (Service Data says it must be with Consult III but I ASSUME a modern full feature scan tool can do this but have never tried.) After that is completed, you erase the codes from the ECM/ABS modules (yes, according to service data you will get ABS/VDC alerts and must reset the codes) and then drive over 30kph (about 20mph) for at least 1 min.
Any leftover codes should be discreet codes (e.g. a wheel sensor open/shorted)
Please let us know your progress and any other indications or codes you get.
Lt
Quote:
The BCM needs to be replaced by my dad's electrical mechanic. That the voltage is pushing out12 volt the rack and pinion needs only 6 voltage... That's why all the lights are ONOriginally Posted by LtLeary
Thanks for the update. Please let us know how it goes. BTW our 7th gens are very sensitive to voltage spikes so getting the alternator checked is a good idea while you have the "electrical" tools at your disposal.
Senior Member
We dont see many BCM failures here so I am now very curious as to the ultimate solution so please do keep us apprised as to the progress of its replacement!
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Ok so the guy put the BCM... That he says he did, 10 seconds into driving all the lights popped up again.. Tells me after driving 20 miles the Computer will reset and the lights will go away. Mention about my front aftermarket rims aren't for my Maxima, I don't know what front aftermarket rims got to do with all the lights popping up after replacing the BCMAll this Damn headache from just replacing the Rack and Pinion Originally Posted by LtLeary
We dont see many BCM failures here so I am now very curious as to the ultimate solution so please do keep us apprised as to the progress of its replacement!
Senior Member
Quote:
Agreeing with MaximusN8. Looking more and likely that the alternator has some high/crappy voltage component that is causing the issue. Note that this doesnt mean that it is always bad voltage but often enough to cause these issues. This is much more common failure scenario in our 7th gens. I have had mine replaced twice so far in 460,000 miles. If you get a few minutes, search you tube for South Main Auto. Eric O did a nice video of this on a maxima earlier in 2022Originally Posted by MaximusN8
Have you tested that alternator?
BCM was replaced and it fixed the issue with all the lights popping up. 1st I turned off the VDC drove 15 miles. Then put my Factory front rims back on and
no more Xmas light dash lol...guy did a diagnostic saying that when the Rack was replaced voltage was at 12v...Factory is 6 voltage output... That's why VDC,ABS,BRAKE,KEY,SLIP,SERVICE SOONLights was all OnCrazy thing is having my 2010 max over 8yrs never had this Issue with a damaged Rack and Pinion until it was Replaced
no more Xmas light dash lol...guy did a diagnostic saying that when the Rack was replaced voltage was at 12v...Factory is 6 voltage output... That's why VDC,ABS,BRAKE,KEY,SLIP,SERVICE SOONLights was all OnCrazy thing is having my 2010 max over 8yrs never had this Issue with a damaged Rack and Pinion until it was Replaced
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255/40/20 9.5 wide at first... Then i changed my rims again 2 weeks ago 245/35/20 8.5 wide, so I went ahead and put my Maxima Sport 19s back ON,I have Snow tires mount on my stock 19s 245/45/19, but lefted my 1st set of 20s 9.5 wide on the Back.Originally Posted by LtLeary
Thanks for letting us know. By the way, what size rims/tires did you have on and where they only on the fronts?
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All the lights on the left of dash was ON.Originally Posted by LtLeary
Thanks for letting us know. By the way, what size rims/tires did you have on and where they only on the fronts?
Mph stopped working once they lid up
Turn car off lights will go away 4 a few seconds Testing a theory out with VCD OFF no lights would stay ON. I was Right
Mechanic who did the BCM replacement Said drive the car 15 miles of driving and the Computer will reset and lights will go away,Remember VCD On all lights will pop up again and VCD OFF No lights will pop up and the Mph needle will work Drove
15 miles put my stock 19s back ON it's been 2 days no issues He did an steering wheel angle reset