Ok, thinking about adding a 10" amplified sub in the trunk. The Bose system sounds pretty good, just missing that deep base. Just was wondering how you guys that added a sub did it. Got pictures? I know to turn of the noise cancellation if I do add the sub. I was thinking about buying the Rockford P300-10. I don't want to be able to be heard 1/2 down the road, but for it to sound good.
Thanks

 

Don't know about the car, but the bass, you may find that sealed 10" Single Voice Coil is going to leave you wanting more. Especially with the amp being only 300 RMS. Sealed low wattage through a back seat, you're not going to be happy. Those are good for SUV's or open air vehicles.


I'd recommend a DVC, 12", and at least 600w RMS amp...and don't go cheap on the sub, I went with one of these after having blown the lower level model every 3 years. This one had the depth you need, and it doesn't boom, it hits. Same box, same amp, sounds so much better then a $130 version of the same brand. when you do DVC, one speaker, depending on the amp, you'll want to wire a 4 ohm down to a 2 ohm. Most stable that way, anything wired down to 1 ohm you'd better have a killer amp, and 4 ohm you're selling your amp short. I wired this one up as 4 ohm just to see the difference, and it was crazy how soft it was with less watts. switched it back to 2 ohm, thump! And trust me, this isn't the loud bass you hear from 1/4 mile away, this is quality bass to be proud of, and no disappointment.

https://www1.crutchfield.com/p_575T1...er-T1D412.html

 

I'll look into the DVC sub. I just wanted to keep it simple. That sub is a little pricey. I would like to be able to keep it under $500 total. Yes, the Bose system isn't the greatest, but it is ok for now.

 

I just upgraded my '16SL system. I converted it to a standard stereo configuration with left and right three-way component speakers, a 10" sub, Alpine 5 channel amp, and processor.

The amp provides 500 watts to the sub. I agree with MadMax that 300w is not enough power (which is why I didn't go with my existing 300w amp to power the new sub). Remember: this is not about volume; it's about having enough reserve to handle power-sucking, momentary demands.

If you're listening to rap or other genres and want loud and boomy bass, then you might want a driver larger than 10". I prefer a more "natural" sounding system with tight, accurate bass. I crank up my rock 'n' roll, and for me a good quality 10# sub is plenty fine.

I had a 10" in my Acura Integra (a Soundstream) and my current sub is a Morel. I've found that a custom built, sealed enclosure located in the truck gives me excellent bass (down to around 30Hz), but to Max's point again: you need a good quality driver, an enclosure of the correct volume, and lots of power.

I doubt that you'll get all of that for $500. Remember: the enclosure must be built/fabricated and installed, you'll need cabling, etc.

Make sure you use a reputable installer!!

Good luck.

 

I am looking for tight bass. I mostly listen to rock. I don't listen to rap and I don't want that deep booming bass. If it costs more than $500 to it, I'm ok with that. You have any pictures of your install? Also did your 16SL come with the Bose system in it?

 

I'll be glad to post a picture, although there's not much to see. The amp & processor are hidden behind the right side trunk lining and the fiberglass sub enclosure is molded to fit into the rear left side quarter panel, to the rear of the wheel well.

 

Would love to see a picture of it. That was something I was contemplating to do. Did you have a shop do it?

 

Yes, a shop.

Fiberglass work is well beyond my pay grade!

 

Here's a shot of the 10" Morel sub in custom-built fiberglass enclosure, molded to fit in left rear quarter panel behind the wheel well.

 

nice!
trunk is way cleaner than mine, too!

 

I had to clean out my trunk for the install and have yet to move the junk back in!

 

That is sweet looking! Nice install, and still having the use of almost all of your trunk space.

 

My previous install used a standard custom-built box with "wings" on the grill side that mounted flush against the back seat and reached from one side to the other. I could still access my spare tire in the trunk well, yet couldn't use the fold-down rear seats for extra long packages.

Then, sub drivers required more volume for optimal performance and, thus, a bigger enclosure. Today's drivers can perform just fine in relatively smaller ones.

Plus, the shop I used for my Max does fiberglass work.

This leaves almost all of the trunk space free and I can get to the spare tire easily.