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Hey I’m new here, as of 3 minutes ago lol. I’m wondering if there is anyone who has done any type of performance mods whether it be a simple cold air intake, suspension upgrades or whatever else, that could educate me on what mods and upgrades actually work, and if I can tune it. I have a 2018 sv. I’ve heard that’s it’s untunable bc of the cvt but maybe someone who has done it can say otherwise. Thank you
Aftermarket support for this car is practically non-existent, performance wise. Enjoy your Max for what it is, a nice sedan to get you from point A to point B.
Any money spent on CAI or exhausts is really for sound as any gains are insignificant at best. You can forget about tuning.
to the Org. I encourage you to spend an hour and read through the threads in this forum. Search function works well too.
Last edited by The Wizard; 12-08-2020 at 08:55 AM.
I have not found a tuning chip that is validated but you can modify the exhaust and air intake for a 25 hp increase. Stillen makes the parts and they will cost about $2000
If U want to go cheap, get a K&N replacement air filter for $75. Might add a few hp. If you want cheap power U can modify the existing exhaust to lower back pressure.
If your car does not have the small factory rear spoiler it can be bought, pre painted for $100. I added one to my car. It took some skill to install. If you are a young guy they do make more bodacious (large) spoilers.
Another way to increase speed is to get one size smaller front tires. Don't get too small or the car will be too low. A tire that is smaller in circumference by 5% will increase your leverage to the road by 5%.
I have not found a tuning chip that is validated but you can modify the exhaust and air intake for a 25 hp increase. Stillen makes the parts and they will cost about $2000
If U want to go cheap, get a K&N replacement air filter for $75. Might add a few hp. If you want cheap power U can modify the existing exhaust to lower back pressure.
If your car does not have the small factory rear spoiler it can be bought, pre painted for $100. I added one to my car. It took some skill to install. If you are a young guy they do make more bodacious (large) spoilers.
Another way to increase speed is to get one size smaller front tires. Don't get too small or the car will be too low. A tire that is smaller in circumference by 5% will increase your leverage to the road by 5%.
Funniest post I have read today!
Please explain how you decided on the +25 HP number, and what does "increase your leverage to the road" mean?
Welcome to the VQ Family! I have a 2020 SL. I recently added the Stillen dry filter cold air intake and I noticed surprisingly noticeable sound and performance difference. You can’t most definitely feel and hear the difference while cruising!
I was wanting to install a cold air intake, but I took the factory intake apart and it looks like there is very little restriction in it to begin with. Also, my car is in warranty, does anyone know if modifying the intake or exhaust will void the warranty?
For "Rick Smith": It it's based on the "mechanics" part of physics. The "leverage" is based on the radius of the circle that forms the wheel. That radius is the "lever arm". Since you don't seem to understand, let me explain it this way: Why do you use a longer socket handle on a large nut that is rusted tight? The longer handle gives you more "leverage". In the same way, the taller tire has more leverage *against* the front axle and consequently the transmission and engine.
Now regarding the Stillen's, very expensive parts....Stillen claims to have dyno tested all of their parts and they are widely used by serious amateur racers. They claim 17 hp for the cat back exhaust and as I recall 8 or nine for the cold air intake. I will give you the equation:
17+8= 25
Last edited by Samoyed1960; 12-08-2020 at 01:51 PM.
I doubt it would void the warrantee but why not ask the dealer?
I agree that the stock intake does indeed take air from the very front of the car just below where the hood latch is. I just got a K&N filter and installed it in the stock filter box. Its a tight squeeze but it fits. The filter breaths better than the stock one and I can only assume it adds adds a few hp.
For "Rick Smith": It it's based on the "mechanics" part of physics. The "leverage" is based on the radius of the circle that forms the wheel. That radius is the "lever arm". Since you don't seem to understand, let me explain it this way: Why do you use a longer socket handle on a large nut that is rusted tight? The longer handle gives you more "leverage". In the same way, the taller tire has more leverage *against* the front axle and consequently the transmission and engine.
Now regarding the Stillen's, very expensive parts....Stillen claims to have dyno tested all of their parts and they are widely used by serious amateur racers. They claim 17 hp for the cat back exhaust and as I recall 8 or nine for the cold air intake. I will give you the equation:
17+8= 25
I think what you are trying to say regarding leverage is that a smaller wheel/rim has less rotational mass thus increasing performance, handling and braking ability. Lighter tires can help too (only talking about saving 1 to 3 lbs per tire, depending on brand and other variables). Height of the tire must remain close to the same or else your speedo will be way off.
When you have a chance, please share your source of information and/or dyno graphs of what Stillen claims. Everywhere I look, whether their blog or their website, no information or dyno graphs are posted. I'm sure it's because it would be naïve of Stillen to claim irrefutable and repeatable gains on a car with a CVT transmission. For their catbacks made for the Q50 and Q60 as well as other cars, they proudly show off dyno graphs with hp gains listed.
I honestly don't see the intake doing anything performance wise. If anything, it's likely close to a wash in performance or possibly a negligible loss in hp since now it's a hybrid cai/hai. People primarily buy it for the sound.
I think what you are trying to say regarding leverage is that a smaller wheel/rim has less rotational mass thus increasing performance, handling and braking ability. Lighter tires can help too (only talking about saving 1 to 3 lbs per tire, depending on brand and other variables). Height of the tire must remain close to the same or else your speedo will be way off.
When you have a chance, please share your source of information and/or dyno graphs of what Stillen claims. Everywhere I look, whether their blog or their website, no information or dyno graphs are posted. I'm sure it's because it would be naïve of Stillen to claim irrefutable and repeatable gains on a car with a CVT transmission. For their catbacks made for the Q50 and Q60 as well as other cars, they proudly show off dyno graphs with hp gains listed.
I honestly don't see the intake doing anything performance wise. If anything, it's likely close to a wash in performance or possibly a negligible loss in hp since now it's a hybrid cai/hai. People primarily buy it for the sound.
"buy it for the sound." And looks; don't forget the looks! Also, would someone please explain what makes the Stillen (or any other mfg. for that matter) "cold air intake" actually introduces cold air into the throttle body? The Maxima system, and many other mfgs. already intake cold air from in front of the grill straight to the air filter. THAT is cold air! Stillen uses a honkin' large steel tube, heated burning hot with under hood hot air, and further heated by partial under hood air through the modified air filter. This all sounds like a "hot air intake" to me. Please explain how all that hot freakin' air increases HP and/or torque. What don't I understand?
The smaller tire effect has nothing to do with mass (weight) but what another poster described as final "drive ratio". Taller ratios decrease power to the road but decrease RPMs for better MPG. The smaller tire circumference acts by decreasing drive ratio.
I don't know your era but it was very common for enthusiasts to put in a 4:1.1 "rear" for much better 1/4 mile performance. The typical car back then was a ratio of about 3.05 or so in the highest gear. In the Maxima CVT and other cars it can do this using "sport mode" which holds the car in a higher drive ratio when the pedal is to the metal.
Tire and rim weight is important as you state but more getting less wheel hop over bumps. Less hop means better traction which is critical when rounding curves at high speed. .
Also, would someone please explain what makes the Stillen (or any other mfg. for that matter) "cold air intake" actually introduces cold air into the throttle body? The Maxima system, and many other mfgs. already intake cold air from in front of the grill straight to the air filter. THAT is cold air! Stillen uses a honkin' large steel tube, heated burning hot with under hood hot air, and further heated by partial under hood air through the modified air filter. This all sounds like a "hot air intake" to me. Please explain how all that hot freakin' air increases HP and/or torque.
I hear ya and agree with you. In Stillen's defense, they don't appear to call it a CAI, but a high flow intake. It's essentially a short ram (hot) intake. The concept behind their design is to use the OEM tubing (think CAI) coupled with their design, a short ram (hot) intake for the best of both worlds, in concept anyway.
"The goal with the short ram intake is to direct air into the engine in the shortest route possible. The shortest route is also straight. These characteristics combine to create a path that has the least amount of resistance for air to get into the engine. This lesser the resistance, the more air you have, thus the more horsepower potential." This info was taken from here: https://www.cobbtuning.com/differenc...8aAiF8EALw_wcB
Site does a decent job explaining the pros and cons of each.
Other companies such as COBB are doing the same thing with hybrid cai/hai intake systems. Interesting stuff, but I'll stick to true CAI's
The smaller tire effect has nothing to do with mass (weight) but what another poster described as final "drive ratio". Taller ratios decrease power to the road but decrease RPMs for better MPG. The smaller tire circumference acts by decreasing drive ratio.
I don't know your era but it was very common for enthusiasts to put in a 4:1.1 "rear" for much better 1/4 mile performance. The typical car back then was a ratio of about 3.05 or so in the highest gear. In the Maxima CVT and other cars it can do this using "sport mode" which holds the car in a higher drive ratio when the pedal is to the metal.
Tire and rim weight is important as you state but more getting less wheel hop over bumps. Less hop means better traction which is critical when rounding curves at high speed. .
I see what you are saying now. Thanks for the clarification.
Source of Stillen dyno claims???? I talked to a guy who has sold the parts for years and uses them. He knew his stuff imo. That is not science but an "anecdote" from a seemingly credible source.
Then we have the Stillen video from the link U gave. It was on the net so it MUST be true!!! I will say that 17 hp seems realistic but not worth it at $1600. I'll cut the mufflers off and install and axle back straight pipe before I spend $1600 AND the time to install the damn thing.
Do we know anyone who has installed the cat back on a newer Maxima?
Cobb! They are a little bit FOS on their site too.
The difference in air density at 100F vs 32F is 8%. Thing is, they claim CAI will keep heat from the brakes, engine etc from entering the engine. ROFL!!!! Maybe at Idle! At 60 mph, the parts under the hood are hot as hell but the air isn't because it is being replaced with outside air....@ 60 mph!. The air doesn't have time to heat up much as it blows past and gets shunted under the car or into the wheel wells etc...
As we already agreed, the 2016+ Maxima has a cold air intake already.
A good test would be to do a 1/4 mi run and then remove the air filter from the car, do another run and see the difference. This will tell you the maximum benefit from a better filter. I will bet my left gonad that removing the filter will result in a better time.
Since we need the filter for engine protection we can't remove it so the K&N more permeable filter seems an easy and cheap solution.
Cobb! They are a little bit FOS on their site too.
The difference in air density at 100F vs 32F is 8%. Thing is, they claim CAI will keep heat from the brakes, engine etc from entering the engine. ROFL!!!! Maybe at Idle! At 60 mph, the parts under the hood are hot as hell but the air isn't because it is being replaced with outside air....@ 60 mph!. The air doesn't have time to heat up much as it blows past and gets shunted under the car or into the wheel wells etc...
As we already agreed, the 2016+ Maxima has a cold air intake already.
A good test would be to do a 1/4 mi run and then remove the air filter from the car, do another run and see the difference. This will tell you the maximum benefit from a better filter. I will bet my left gonad that removing the filter will result in a better time.
Since we need the filter for engine protection we can't remove it so the K&N more permeable filter seems an easy and cheap solution.
Samoyed, Welcome to the group though I must admit you come off a bit condescending at times. You have made a few good points though. Keep in mind, changing the tire sizes up or down can alter things like the ABS response as well as overall handling and ride! Essentially when you add the noisemaker mods at a great cost you end up with a car that sounds like a bumblebee at cruise and moos like a cow during acceleration. When you spend some more time with our site, I think you will conclude that the Maxima's of this era are great cars that really don't respond to the "performance" mods available. The 300 hp we do have seems like an honest rating that also gets you great economy that is often far better than the turbo 4 bangers out there and performs very well in tight passing situations.
This punk new fella Sammyod1960 or what ever he calls himself needs some zanax or something to calm down. Coming in here like he knows it all shooting off his mouth insulting the Moderator. tsk tsk
Well Wisenheimer, I am in the science field and my points are rational and sound. That's how I roll. I expected to find people who could do more than make ignorant posts like yours and laugh when indeed they are the fool. I'll try to sound more ignorant so you don't feel inferior. Now why don't you learn a little bit about basic H.S. physics and chemistry or STFU? Now go put some stickers on your Maxima.
I agree that 300hp is just fine but it seems everyone here has given up trying. I gave some ideas and was told by three ignoramuses that I was stupid as they cackled like the two inbreds depicted in the movie "Deliverance". "Squeal like a pig boy!"... Nice.
Regarding tire size and ABS....each tire is independently monitored and responds when it senses a loss of traction. I doubt a tire than is slightly smaller would have any effect other than lowering the front end perhaps 1 cm and raising final drive ratio and proportionally improved acceleration. Has anyone tried it? Almost all supercars have larger rear tires and smaller front. My idea is not unprecedented regardless of the fact that the supercars are rear wheel drive.
I do not consider myself an expert or the last word but have been working on cars since 1977. I just don't bolt parts onto the engine. I know how every system in the older cars and newer cars works. I've done the basic 4 barrel carb and headers mod all the way to an entire engine rebuild. With Turbo cars I have used waste gate bleeder valves and HKS parts and exhaust on a Supra and Eagle Talon. Just before the Maxima, I had an Altima. 182 hp. Slow. I added the K&N filter and drilled three 5/8 holes in each of the pipes leading to the mufflers to relieve back pressure which it definitely does. I researched less restrictive pre cats etc... and watched videos of rednecks who removed the cat internals and inserted bolts into the cat shell to fool the sensors. My point is, I don't just sit on the lazy boy and pull these ideas out of my ***. I'd prefer some intelligent responses and ideas rather than negativity or stupidity.
Why do you even have a forum if people are not open to performance mods and others don't understand the most basic of mods and make rude comments? I already gave mods for 25 HP. They are cost prohibitive but see plenty of people here have spend thousands to modify the exhaust and appearance of their cars.
For "Rick Smith": It it's based on the "mechanics" part of physics. The "leverage" is based on the radius of the circle that forms the wheel. That radius is the "lever arm". Since you don't seem to understand, let me explain it this way: Why do you use a longer socket handle on a large nut that is rusted tight? The longer handle gives you more "leverage". In the same way, the taller tire has more leverage *against* the front axle and consequently the transmission and engine.
Now regarding the Stillen's, very expensive parts....Stillen claims to have dyno tested all of their parts and they are widely used by serious amateur racers. They claim 17 hp for the cat back exhaust and as I recall 8 or nine for the cold air intake. I will give you the equation:
17+8= 25
are you suggesting that smaller diameter tires makes the car faster or somehow increases horsepower or torque?
Perhaps the words "cost-effective" needs to be uttered now. Sure you could transplant a GTR drive train in the Maxima with enough time and resources. Probably best to trade off the Maximaand get the GTR, or Mustang, or Camaro, etc to begin with. The Maxima certainly looks great but face it >> the drive train is all wrong for the 0-60, quarter-mile crowd. I have bought new, two of this generation Maximas (2016 and 2019) and really find them to be lots of value for the transportation we require.
As these used Maximas arrive to the next owners, this discussion always fires up again mainly because no one can believe the car can't be cheaply modded.
Maybe you will be the one who figures out something that really is worth doing.
Yes, I KNOW that a smaller radius tire on the drive wheels will improve acceleration. It has no effect on HP or internal torque of the engine.
Think of it this way: Have you ever replaced the rear differential on a rear wheel car or truck? It is commonplace...not rare, not secret, not mysterious (except to Rick) A higher ratio rear differential is used to increase acceleration. You never heard of this?!? The Maxima, being front wheel drive, does not have the option of changing the differential. As already mentioned, a smaller tire gives a higher final drive ratio resulting in better acceleration times. Your lowest or starting point "gear" on the CVT is now lower throughout the shift band and you highest "gear" is also not as high.
I did this on a 1970 Camaro. I put much larger tires on the back. Final drive ratio was DECREASED because gas was expensive back them so the result was improved mileage and a slower car. Putting a smaller tire on the front of the Maxima will do the opposite. Higher final drive ratio and a faster car but a slight decreased in highway mileage
Cost effectiveness is indeed a huge issue. Headers and removing cats are not options and so far there are no proven "chips". As we said Stillen Cat back + CAI can add 25 hp for $2000. Ouch.
One size smaller tire will indeed improve speed and acceleration but 2 tires are about $300. As you said, the FWD car is not a 1/4 setup but then again the CIVIC Type R handles great on the track. What fun is it to leave a car stock?
You see it at every car meet and cruise; VW Golfs, Audi A4s, Camaro's, etc. turning up with their wheel wells filled and scraping with wheels four inches larger than stock. Aesthetically, it is completely understandable to want to fill the wheel arches for a more aggressive and hunkered look. Your car can be made to look badass and more compact in side profile. I’ve even seen 19-inch Lamborghini wheels crammed into a Scirocco’s wheel wells. But how does a big set of wheels affect your car in terms of performance?
Newton’s Second Law dictates that the force on an object is equal to its mass multiplied by its acceleration. So, increasing your wheel size will decrease the driving force from your wheels which will culminate in a decrease in acceleration of said wheels. Car and Driver ran an interesting test a few years ago to show just how much difference wheel sizes can make to acceleration using a VW Golf. The car was tested with varying wheel sizes, with the 0-60mph times ranging from 7.6 seconds for the smallest wheel size (15-inch) and 7.9 seconds for the 19-inch option. That lag in time was emphasized with the 0-100mph times as well, with the large-wheeled car taking over a second longer than the 15-inch variant.
Chew on that.
Last edited by compyelc4; 12-10-2020 at 04:44 PM.
Reason: Clarity
Yep. The bigger sizes make look cool but if the circumference is larger, the car will be slower. When you go off the reservation with 19 in in the GOLF article then all bets are off. I don't think the additional weight of the tire has much effect on acceleration but the smaller tire will always act as a "lower gear".
This article supports my premise that a slightly smaller tire (but same width) on the front wheels of a Maxima will increase acceleration. Might look cool as the front would be lower which is a classic fast car look.
Performance improvements should be directly proportional to the change in circumference but other variables such as stickiness of rubber and variances in tire manufacturer's width to sidewall ratio will skew the results. My Goodyear Gatorback V 225s were definitely lower profile that the same Yokohama a 008A tires even though the specs were the same.
Hey Sammy I put the tires from my golf cart on the front and she does the 1/4 in 10 seconds flat now. Thanks smart guy!
I already posted a simple explanation and a link that supports what I said. I'm sorry you don't understand. Seems most posters do get it as well as "Tire Rack" who sells millions of tires and has tech support. I posted a link to the Tire Rack article. The humorous thing about your posts is that while you think you are funny, you are showing your ignorance and looking like a fool on the far left side of the "Bell Curve". I'd guess about 85.
Denoose: In order to be sophomoric you have to be clever AND foolish. I haven't seen the "Clever" part in the flat Earther's denial of gear ratios and tire size.
There doesn’t seem to be many actual products available yet, but I like the idea of adding in-wheel electric motors to the back. It’s an easy, but expensive way to add ~50hp per wheel without putting any strain on the drivetrain. Orbis & Protean are two such companies working on such technology.
If you can’t squeeze more power out of one motor, just add another
Denoose: In order to be sophomoric you have to be clever AND foolish. I haven't seen the "Clever" part in the flat Earther's denial of gear ratios and tire size.
Thanks for clarifying that- I chose to be as non- critical as possible, given the delicate nature of said science denier. It is probably better to avoid calling someone a moron when you don't exactly know how many times they may have been dropped on their head..
Nice chart Wisenheimer. Folks are ready to go to war over every little disagreement. Very sad trend. It’s far too easy to lob insults anonymously on the internet. Don’t want to return to the suffocating 50s, but people need to learn some civics and civility
Nice chart Wisenheimer. Folks are ready to go to war over every little disagreement. Very sad trend. It’s far too easy to lob insults anonymously on the internet. Don’t want to return to the suffocating 50s, but people need to learn some civics and civility
Not sure what you mean by "suffocating 50s" but growing up during the 50s was so much fun. To bad kids today will never experience it.
12-07-2020, 12:21 PM
to the Org. I encourage you to spend an hour and read through the threads in this forum. Search function works well too.
