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Hey everybody, my 2016 Maxima SR with very little mileage has all of a sudden sprung up warning lights (check engine, traction control, and forward collision warning), combined with the car going into limp mode. I couldn't get it past 20-30km/h and it can get into drive and reverse. The car has been dealership serviced at least twice a year since the time I got it new. Has anyone ever experienced anything like this?
I've made an appointment at the local dealership but was wondering if there is any quick fix to something like this so I can at least drive it over to the shop normally. The only other thing is that it was hooked up to a 4A battery changer last week since I don't drive it very often, but since then it was driven an uneventful 2000km. The car starts so I don't think it's a battery issue (although the battery is more than 5 years old now).
I agree. Change the battery, OEM Nissan batteries aren't the greatest.
I have never had one fail....My 2002 I replaced at 10 years....Just cause it was 10 years. My second one I replaced at about the same time...Just cause.
When you buy the new battery, ensure that it is fully charged overnight before installing
Always!! As a matter of fact, if my car sits I put a tender on it....Sometimes I will just put one on over night a couple x a month. It really seems to prolong battery life
Hey everybody, my 2016 Maxima SR with very little mileage has all of a sudden sprung up warning lights (check engine, traction control, and forward collision warning), combined with the car going into limp mode. I couldn't get it past 20-30km/h and it can get into drive and reverse. The car has been dealership serviced at least twice a year since the time I got it new. Has anyone ever experienced anything like this?
I've made an appointment at the local dealership but was wondering if there is any quick fix to something like this so I can at least drive it over to the shop normally. The only other thing is that it was hooked up to a 4A battery changer last week since I don't drive it very often, but since then it was driven an uneventful 2000km. The car starts so I don't think it's a battery issue (although the battery is more than 5 years old now).
Any ideas?
Had the same issue. Mine even sent codes for camshaft crankshaft sensors. Replaced them, replaced altenator, and it remained. The stealership sent me on a chase. Finally, I stopped being the girl that I am and took it to my trusted and true mechanic. I also had battery drain, but the battery was new. It ended up being the IPDM. Replaced it, put the old cam & crankshaft sensors back in, all codes cleared, and I haven't had a problem with limp mode or battery drain since.
Last edited by japonicadunbar; Mar 18, 2023 at 03:55 PM.
Reason: Forgot details...
Thanks for the advice guys. So I bought a brand new battery, charged it, and installed it. Car starts, but codes are still there. Any ideas where to go from here? Any idea on how to diagnose if it is a IPDM issue?
when a car sets a light,it often will set others also,id reset the codes and see which one pops up
also cars have a habit with these complex systems to have a momentary glitch and set a code be it a soft or hard code and clearing the code and it doesnt set it again.
code clearing would be my first step taken.
UPDATE: the limp mode seemed to go away by itself after a few more starts and drives normally now! The traction control and forward emergency brake lights are off now. However, the check engine light was still on so I took it to a Nissan dealership to see what's going on. They recommended 1) replacing the entire throttle body, 2) replacing the IPDM relay, 3) replacing the distance sensor and bracket. $6K! I feel like I'm being taken for a ride here. Part of me just wants to get AAA/CAA for emergency towing if I get stranded. What do you all think?
Did the dealership reset the codes for you? If not, try to reset it with code reader. Some auto parts stores can do this for you. Then wait to see if the light comes back on.
If you really did need that work, I'd go to a reputable local mechanic and get an estimate. I feel like they are hosing you with the parts fees. I'm guessing on part numbers based on what's in your paperwork, but if you google them, I think you'll see they are a lot less.
the dealer is wanting to replace the parts that has set a code,the average person sees the set codes so they think these codes are bad
your soft codes reset themselves but hard codes need to be cleared.
a code clearing needs to be done and re-drive and fix the first code that gets set.
Thank you for all the info guys. I have decided not to go forward with any of the work recommended. I have so far driven the car for about 200km, both highway and city, without any problems. The engine light has not come back on for now. I hope it stays that way. For now it seemed to be a battery issue so thank you to everybody who suggested it. I got a second opinion from an independent mechanic who thought that the throttle body may be the main issue and may come back with time as a check engine light. He recommended against the other work. We will see!