they won't work on your balljoints unless you know what you're doing with them.


Red Lion, also think about what's happening to the rest of the suspension geometry when you move that arm. it changes the mounting point of the rear of the control arm, and pulls the ball joint physically inward as well as forward. this causes positive camber AND caster. It also moves your axle inward some, which can possibly cause bottoming of the inner CV joint.
doesn't sound like a good idea overall..

 

I wouldn't worry about the axle/CV too much, after all lowering the car alone puts the axles/CV's at an odd position and stress as is, moving it forward a bit (probably wouldn't even move 1/2 an inch) isn't likely to add a huge stress to it.

You are correct, the rear mounting points move outward and the ball joint moves forward and inward, which is what gives it the positive caster effect. As for positive camber, I'm not too sure if that would happen or not, it seems to me it should add some negative camber as well as toe-in, and of course positive caster increase adds dynamic negative camber. A simple alignment should take care of the toe-in and if need be camber bolts should take care of any unwanted camber effects.
But hey, I'm not here to tell you guys what to do, you guys seem to have it down what to do with your cars, I'm just throwing out ideas. But I'll say it's great to talk to someone that understands higher level suspension tuning!

 

I wouldn't necessarily say this is higher level... not yet anyway.


The problem with the CV joints isn't the axle moving fore/aft, it's about the axle bottoming out on the inside of the joint.. moving the knuckle inward toward the transmission requires you to shorten the axles (possibly). the SE-R guys have a problem with that, and the aftermarket control arms for them stick out a bit farther to counteract that problem.

I would also stay as far away as you can from camber bolts.. i've had several different types on my car over the years, and ALL of them slipped on hard corners. it's a freaky feeling to be going into a corner at 100mph and right when you think the chassis is set to go into the corner, *WTF?!?!?!* the car lurches to the outside of the corner and you have to crank the wheel another 1/4 turn to counteract it.

pull into the pits and pull the front wheels off.. sure enough, I can see the marks where the camber bolts were slipping.

stay away. stay far far away.

 

ok i have a ? mine doesnt do any of these .

in the first schematic it shows the control arm going up toward the tire mine actually slopes down going toward the tire,at about that same angle shown there.

thanks


and also how much do those 3 rd gen removable ball joints cost id like to buy some

 

That was meant as a theoretical description of what an adjustable ball joint does, so it wont match anyones car exactly. The idea is that you need to keep the angle between the control arm and the strut as low as possible so the suspension gains negative camber as it compresses. above 90 degrees, it will actually gain positive camber as it compresses(Bad).
if your control arms are pointing down as they go out to the tire then you should not worry about this, you are in a good range for camber gain.

 

So the next question is how much does the suspension compress in a corner and how much is the ball joint travelling up & down? And compare stock vs higher spring rates. Anybody know if you're aiming at pointing the arms down 50% of that range in static condition? Or does one need to plot the camber curve and do what if's that way?

 

finding how much the car compresses in a corner would be one of the first things to do.
that's easy enough to do.. stick a zip tie on the strut shaft and put the car on the ground. roll it back and forth to settle the suspension.
jack it up and measure where the zip tie is on the shaft.

now lower the car back down and go for a lap on the track..
when you get done, measure the zip tie again.

you need to make sure the camber curve is set where you want it through that particular range, and a bit more than that to be thorough.
If the suspension compresses 1.5" in a corner, then you need to center the curve at static height, and make sure you've got a decent curve at compression and droop for at least 1.5" either way.
make sense?

 

http://www.sr20forum.com/showthread....&highlight=dog

Don't know how hand it would be to get a machine shop remachine the spindle.
And from the looks of it cut and tap a place for the ball joint to go to.

Also has anyone measured any of the different b13-b15 control arms and compared them to maxima control arm?

 

I've been thinking about doing this very same thing to my maxima for quite a while. The main thing I'd worry about with this setup would be the strength of the bolts, the heim joints, and the welds.

 

More people who mod? No.

More people who mod seriously, as in with honest hardcore performance parts? Yes.

 

Good point as always, d00df00d.