I know there are a couple guys who have rigged fresh-air venting to the brakes using various methods.

Care to share your setup?

 

Get some custom Ford GT fenders!

 

FWIW I'm interested in this as well.

 

I had some cheap custom front brake ducting that I had for a while..but when I worked on the suspension and brakes last I had to take them off and messed one up in the process so I just left both off until I can redo 'em...I just got some simple, inexpensive parts from the local hardware store (such as heater/dryer hose, and hose clamps and such) not much room with the axle, tie rod, suspension and brakes all smashed in one cubic foot of area where you ultimately want to mount hosing...it wasn't easy...but the optimal from what I've read is to have it cooling/blowing on the rotor right before it enters the caliper/pad...so the pads are acting on a cooler rotor--more effective and also which in turn cools the pad making the pad more effective as well...

 

I'd like to know also

 

Last time I heard....you were "done" modding the max....you just can't leave well enough alone can you.....

For auto-x though, I am just not sure how much of a difference it would make. I had stock brakes out on Pocono and they didn't fade and worked great all day. Granted, road course is different, but trailbraking out of turn 1at 90, then having to really clamp down for the infield after that (south course), they worked great.

I mean it's 60 seconds, and 20 minutes later, another 59(<---benefit of the doubt). I don't think you have enough time in that window to really do anything.

 

maybe he's comptemplating going road racing soon...

 

it's just an idea for something to do that cost only a few bucks and could have some positive aspects (and no real negative aspects). Just thinking out loud really. that's what happens when I'm stuck in the house all winter

 

contemplated doing it many times on my VE, but haven't gotten around to it yet. then again, I haven't been able to cook these brakes even on a nasty, hilly, hard-braking road course... so why would I need ducts?

 

the only thing I'm thinking is related to the brake groan: after much trial and error, I've determined that it ONLY happens when the brakes are good and heated up (rush hour traffic, spirited driving, etc) - and in the off chance that I never figure out what the problem is, I would consider this as a way to keep the brakes cooler (and in turn hopefully reduce how often the groaning happens).

Like I said though...just thinking out loud. I've never been able to cook the brakes either, especially with the 2pc rotors that stay almost cool to the touch after hard driving

 

As stupid as this may sound.......would it be possible to custom make something that would spray a lite mist of water on the rotors controlled by a switch from the cabin?

 

wouldn't advise that...water cools much faster than air...you don't want the rotors to cool too fast...they will warp or even crack depending on the difference in temp between the rotor and water being sprayed on it...

ie. it has been known to happen if you drive extremely spirited and then immediately after drive through a puddle of water...spewing it up on the rotors...guys have warped them that way...I guess it also depends on the quality of rotors as well...

 

hmmmmmmmmmm very true, didn't think of the science behind it

 

There you have it folks...If matt can't break something on a maxima,it can't be broken..

 

matt's car is alot lighter than a 5th gen.....our land-boats put alot more strain on things sometimes

 

how much does your car weigh matt?

 

I was watching some Formula1 reruns and the announcers were talking about brake cooling as one of the most important things in racing. Is this really a beneficial tool for daily driven cars? I can see its importance in Autocross or Road Racing but for rush hour traffic, the benefits of this tool is greatly reduced.

I found this while researching brake cooling; http://www.negative-camber.org/crisp...tedducting.htm .

 

i was thinking of somthing like that a while back i tried to get some ducting from the front fog lights to the brakes and well i got pissed and quit but try the fog lights in the front they should work fine if they do get it that would work real nice....... i guess

 

the biggest hurdle I have seen (a buddy of mine has/had a vent setup on his rx7) is fabricating a solid mounting point for your hose so that it will not come into contact with the tires at full lock or your inner fender at either full lock or at the extremes of suspension travel. What he did, from the best of my memory, was basically modify the stock dust shield by cutting a 3-4" hole and welded on a piece of aluminum pipe. then he used flexible "dryer" tubing to connect to the pipe.

hope that helps and maybe gives you some ideas

 

that was the hurdle I struggled with back it the day...my dust shield is gone...I think the shop that did my urethane LCA bushings took them off or something...

 

3800lb w/ driver.

 

I would say if you where using it for autoX reasons or everyday. Cause if you are only doing it at the track you can vent from fog lights and when your done put your fogs back in.

 

3800lbs really? wow...!

 

yeah, it's a heavy bish. tons of stereo and dynamat in it before I decided I wanted to go fast.

 

Have you thought about making some type of deflector "air guide". this is the setup on my Z32 it's not as effective as ducting but it does make a diff. Temp reduction looks to be over 100 degrees vs no air guide.


I'm not sure how you would mount it. I can't picture the A32 suspension in my head at the moment.

 

that looks interesting...

 

The iron-block VE doesn't help. What's the weight distribution front/rear on a 3rd gen VE?

 

In addition, the VE's sit much higher up in relation to the axles and suspension and farther forward in relation to the engine bay from what I've seen and heard in the past...

 

I cornerweighted it a year or so ago, and IIRC it was 58/42. most of the weight added to the car (stereo and dynamat) is at the rear axle or behind.
I'll have to look up the numbers again, but that's what I remember.
by moving the battery to the back and pulling out 'unnecessary' items, I can get it down to about 55/45. but for a FWD car, I'm not so sure that's the best thing to do. lose that much weight off the front end and the damn thing just won't turn in because theres 'no' weight on the front tires.

 

Yep, that's the fundamental flaw of FWD.

I'm impressed that you're that even; stock on a 4th gen 5-speed is 62/38. And Michael, that's an interesting fact you pointed out.