I have just recieved my eagle H- beam rods and i was comparing my ve rods to those and noticed there is no oil jet on the rod to spray the underside of piston and wall.has anyone one else worked around this. im gonna email eagle and see if the rod can be drilled without weakening.
or see if the offer the rod with oil jets. I always thought the vgde had oil squirters on the block and rods.
any input would be helpful

 

I thought it had squirters on the block but didn't know of any on the rods. Its pretty obvious that drilling them will weaken them but detrimentally is to be determined.

 

Hmmmnnn....I'd like to see how oil squirters on the rods would work.

 

Almost all Nissan engines from the past 15 years have this. It's too bad the aftermarket rods never have this feature.

 

If you have oil squirters on the block then you'll be fine. Otherwise you'll need to add them somehow. And I didn't think VGs had squirtes on the blocks.

 

Check the second pic on the right.
http://sportcompactcarweb.com/projec...scc_proj300zx/

 

Anyone have a picture of oil squirters on the rods?

I don't see how that's possible...edgumacate me please.

 

Not sure with the VE but the Mitsu motors I run always have the factory squirters removed from the block and that is running close to 1.5bar boost with a 8.5:1 CR. It is just one more part to fail, and most aftermarket forged pistons come coated to withstand more heat than a normal cast+oil squirter set-up. Unless you plan to run some ungodly CR, I wouldn't worry about it. The main function other than cooling is to oil the wrist-pin, but a lot of high-end rods and pistons have oiling holes for that purpose. (although not sure about Eagles, never use them) You can also Swain coat your pistons, and even the exhaust ports in the heads to draw out heat.
IceY the rod squirters I've seen act like a scoop in conjunction with the momentum of the rotating assembly the sling oil at the piston's underside/skirt. There is also the "rifle-drill" method that feeds pressurized oil to the wrist pin directly from the rod bearing.

 

Thanks...I understand those methods now.